Messages

Thanks Again Jeff !!   I finally got it.  I never thought about the protrusion changing as the tool is ground.

Jeff - Thanks for the prompt reply but I still have a problem/question.  I don't see how grinding longer on one side using the jig will make the bevel length/angle change if the protrusion length does not change or the universal support moved. I will try to define it in another way.  I'm using to SVS 50 jig and believe the universal support is parallel to the wheel surface. 

If I grind a skew that has a 1/4 inch blade thickness and look down from the top, the "V" cutting edge where the bevels intersect, is not centered 1/8 inch from each blade edge.  It is shifted to the side with the shortest bevel.  I have rounded the blade edges on the skews that were square; however, I have the same problem with factory rounded skews.

I'd like to know what I'm doing wrong before I use up any more steel or return to hand grinding.

Jeff- Thanks for the prompt reply but I still have a question/problem.  I will try to describe it another way.

I'm using the SVS 50 jig and believe my wheel is parallel to the universal support. If I grind a skew that is 1/4 inch thick and look down from the top I find the cutting edge where the bevels intersect is not centered 1/8 inch from the left and right edge of the skew blade.
The cutting edge is always shifted to one side. The side with the shortest bevel.

What causes the two bevels on a skew to be different lengths?

Jeff - Thanks for the prompt reply.   I'm sure your first thoughts were "Why doesnt the *&%$#*&^* guy review the material that came with his unit.  Now that I have a working DVD player again, I did just that and found my questions answered.  I also found that my skew problems were with a convex bevel.  This was not evident until  I used the Tormek wide wheel. The long point and short point do not touch the wheeel at the same time.  Looks like some reshaping is in order.  Again thanks for the response.

I might add that I might have recovered some of the Tormek cost if I had it up and operating about a month ago.  My wife got fed up with her set of dull kitchen knives she bought a new set.  We now have two sets of kitchen knives.  One set with sharp blades and  nice new handles and one set with sharp blades and old handles.

I'm a new Tormek user and have a question about the little "a" or "alpha" symbol used in the edge geometery charts.  Does this signify the bevel angle?  My confusion started when I looked at the new angle chart posted on the Tormek web site.  The chart for bowl gouges 1&2 shows the same "a", the same jig settings ,but lists different profiles.

The skew question concerns the radiused skew.  When using the jig I presume the handle does not have to be swung to follow the curve.  I have the large Alan Lacer skew and realize the jig won't work for this size skew.