Messages

Thanks Jeff.  I'll check out the burr thing and see how it all turns out when I regrind it (correctly this time).  Since I was on your site anyway, I got myself an Xmas gift of the BMG-100 and a new version closed seat to update my SVS-50.  that should speed up my reshaping of future tools, and give my tired fingers a break.

Jeff, I made the same mistake over the weekend with my new oval skew, using the old closed end part.  Luckily I haven't finished grinding, so I have time to fix my mistake.  The angle of the bevel was looking way too narrow and I thought I'd done something wrong.  Now I know.  One other thing I'm having a problem with on this jig.  My oval skew seems to sit a little off when tightened into the closed end.  While it seems to fit nicely in the square bottom of the closed end and in the v-groove of the mounting disc, the original skew bevel edge is just a little cocked to the right when you look down at the business end of the skew.  In other words, the original vertical bevel edge leans a little to the right instead of being exactly parallel to the closed end frame.  As I'm grinding, the grinding is taking place in different areas of the skew from one side of the skew to the other, which makes sense given the slight leaning of the bevel (or the skew itself) in the jig.  Could the little bit of slop in the brass mounting disc relative to the inside of the closed end frame be allowing the skew to lean one way when the knob is tightened?  Or was the original bevel just off.

Jeff, I've managed to do a pretty good job forming a radical camber for my scrub plane blade using the tool rest, SVD-110 and can get a 1/64th inch camber on a smoother blade using your technique of grinding longer at the edges.  What do you recommend for getting a 1/16th inch camber on a blade for a jack plane?  My particular jack is a bevel-up L-N place if that makes any difference.  Thanks.

Thanks Jeff, I'll give the magnet a try first.

Just bought the new SE-76 for my 2000 unit to replace the older square edge jig.  I also bought the micro adjust universal support a few years ago when it first came out.  It seems my support doesn't have the threaded hole needed in the end for the stop on the new SE-76.  Has the micro adjust universal support changed?  Do I need to upgrade the support too, or can I just drill and tap the end of my existing universal support and make the stop fit?  

Thanks Jeff.  BTW, when you freehand the skew on the side of the stone, do you sharpen the left bevel with the stone turning away from you, switch your position,  and gring the right bevel with the stone turing towards you?

Oops, I should proof my posts first.  I meant "my finger" as a guide, not "my figure."

Jeff, I too have a new short set of turning tools for pencil/pen making.  I tried your advice to use just the open seat on my oval skew, but I'm coming up short.  The shaft is 3 inches long to the brass ferrell, the original edge angle is 40 degrees with a skew angle of about 25 degrees.  To duplicate this setup, I can't get the the univeral support enough to the stone to get the bevel flat on the stone (I'm working with the support in the horizontal position).  Also the bottom screw on the jig hits the stone.  Any suggestions?  I might be stuck sharpening freehand using the support and my figure as a guide, but I'd rather get your thoughts first.

I sharpened my L-N scrub plane for the first time using Jeff's advice and was surprised at how easy it was to follow the curve of the blade and get an excellent single facet on the bevel.  The blade cut so well I popped hairs on my arm with it!  I had to show my teenage daughter I was so impressed (she wasn't of course).  This makes the scrub plane more than just a roughing plane, chipping and tearing at the stock.  I can use it to cut smooth, almost polished grooves in the stock to create a nice textured effect.  Try this for a decorative look on a furniture project or just skip the jack and smoothing planes altogether if you're making more rustic furniture like a seating bench or a footstool, etc.

How much slop or "wiggle" should I expect between the universal support and the plastic guides in the straight edge jig?  Mine seems to have a lot of looseness, and I wonder if I should worry about it.  I don't have a lot of hours on the jig, so I can't believe I've worn out the guides.  Is this normal and benign?

Jeff, I'm going to be sharpening some Lie-Nielsen plane blades, and they're pretty thick.  Because they are flat ground when new, and I'll be grinding a hollow grind, where should I begin grinding?  The middle of the bevel?  I noticed the first time I ground a thick blade that it took awhile to establish the hollow grind from a flat bevel, and when I finished, my initial angle established with the anglemaster had changed several degrees (the more I grind, the more the blade rotates around the tool support towards the operator).  Should I compensate with the anglemaster when I begin?  Thanks.