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I have a bowl gouge that has become so short that I had no more room in the fluted area to hold the tool with disc my SVD-185 (it doesn't work trying to hold a round shaft).  I have taken the recommendation from Tormek to flatten the shaft between the handle and the flutes, giving me a flat surface for the SVD-185's disc to take purchase. 

I couldn't find the area on the forum where this flattening of the shaft was discussed, so I've added them below.  The first one shows how my first bowl gouge has been shorted over the years, and it is positioned beside the one I just purchased.



The second one shows the SVD-185 attached to the flattened shaft.  You can see how the SVD-185 has to grab the shaft above the flutes.

I'm certainly no woodturning expert, but I've found a good grind for my skew with which I can make a lot of really nice cuts.  I use a Sorby skew with an end that has a 70 degree angle (as shown below) :



I use the SVS-50, set at 20 degrees, a projection of 65mm, and hole B.

Ken,

I have a bowl gouge that has become so short that I had no more room in the fluted area to hold the tool with disc my SVD-185 (it doesn't work trying to hold a round shaft).  I have taken the recommendation from Tormek to flatten the shaft between the handle and the flutes, giving me a flat surface for the SVD-185's disc to take purchase. 

I was looking at the SVD-186, but the curved bottom on the disc (the part that screws down to hold the tool) was a question to me.  Would the SVD-186 work with such a flattened surface ?

Rich

Sir, good point.  Thank you for helping us stay focused.

Sheang, what would you charge to make me a double bearing model (2 bearings each, front & back)?  I really like the Tormek TTS-100 for its simplicity & repeatability.  This jig you have made shows promise for the same with knives, & would make a nice addition to my jigs set (jig addiction?).

Greg,

I forgot to mention the Tormek jigs for knives.  If you do any whittling, these can be really useful.  The base is the SVM-45.  Really well designed and you'll find much in the knife sharpening forum on its use.   

There is also a SVM-00 for small knives which is invaluable.  For those knives with fixed, small blades & large handles (relative to the blade ... I.e., chip carving knives), this jig really makes sharpening a lot easier and more consistent. 

I sharpen & hone on a std stone & the leather stropping wheel, but am considering the purchase of a Japenese water stone (the SJ-250).  Can't speak to its value at this time.

Tormek is a big investment, but worth it.  I got my grinder in 2002, and it's still running like a champ.  The only thing I've had to replace is the grindstone. 

Good luck. 

Kind regards,
Rich

I am a very amateur carver.  I use the SVD-185 for larger gouges, & the SVS-32 for smaller ones.  Both work extremely well for me.

Note, the SVD-185 has been replaced with the SVD-186 & the SVS-23 with the SVS-38.  Both are similar to the original ones, only better. 

In reading this post, I have one query to pose to the experts.  Could the TTS-100 be used with the Universal Support positioned on the hole labeled "A", then adjust the projection length on SVM-xx jig for the desired angle ?

If this is an option, then it seems to me that a simple jig could be built for the projection, allowing for setup of 10-20 degrees of angle.

Eldon,

I'm not seeking to make a T4 with a T7 shaft, let's call it a T47.  I am asking Tormek why they don't sell such a device.

As stated, I'm a woodturner so I sharpen gouges a lot on days I can spend turning.   This makes groves in the stone.  And when I have to sharpen tools that are occasionally used (skews, parting tools, etc.) the stone isn't flat enough.  So, do I flatten the stone & sharpen, or work another way.  Usually, the latter. 

This seems like a better way than swapping out stones.

If I could buy a reasonably priced T47, and use stones that are otherwise useless (I.e., <200mm), this seems like a good idea.   

Noted, many are advising caution.  I'm not running out just yet to buy something, but I respect Tormek's leadership in the sharpening world & am interested in their experts' opinions of

A new T-4 is $400 (at Amazon ... Just a quick check).  And the SG-200 stone is $130. 

So, if I could buy a T-4 with no stone, but with a T-7 shaft, I could have a machine for about $270 that would be able to continue using the stones that no longer fit on my T-2000/T-7. 

I would end up with two machines for $85 more than a single machine with two stones (the SG-250 is $185). 

And that difference goes down if we talk about "handing down" an SB-250 ($270-$190=$60) and I save money with an SJ-250 ($270-$385=$115).

To me, this is a good deal !

I put a query a while ago about this to Tormek, hoping that I could buy a T4 and continue using the T2000's stone until the stone was no longer useful.  What I got back was that the stone is about 9mm wider on the T2000 (or T7), and wouldn't fit onto the T4.

It would be great if we could use a worn Sx250 stone on the T4, getting more value for the cost of the stones.

Plus, I would use the T4 for only flat-ground tools.  I am a woodturner, and sharpen mostly gouges.  The stone on the T2000 gets lots of groves where it isn't smooth across.  By having a stone dedicated to flat tools (skews, scissors, knives, etc.), I could also extend the Sx250 stone's life (as I wouldn't have to flatten it as often using the diamond truer).