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I have the Supergrind 2000, & today I had to retire the original SG-250 stone .  I can tell you that 185 mm is the smallest diameter stone that will fit on that machine.  There is a small rivulet of water picked up by the stone from the trough, but not really enough to really work with.

So, I played Taps and retired it. 

But, that is ok.  The new guard has stepped in.  I replaced it with an SB-250.  This was a better stone for me anyway as I am a woodturner and most of my tools that I sharpen are HSS.  It works like a charm.  When I'm turning, I can easily drop back and touch up a gouge quickly, and get back to productive work.  This stone has permanently replaced the SG for me.


Now, Ken S. just lent me his SJ-250, so I'll have to explore that bad boy tomorrow...

I finally took the plunge to upgrade my Supergrind 2000's shaft to the new stainless steel one (the MSK-250 kit).  These are the notes I have from that upgrade :

1.  Add a little lithium grease to the shaft area where it is inside the bushings.
2.  When attaching the drive wheel to the shaft, put the nut on before putting the honing wheel on. 
3.  I have the profiled leather honing wheel, so I had to attach that shaft next.  I skipped step two, and it didn't fit right.
4.  Make sure the leather honing wheel's bolts sit properly with the drive wheel.  You'll probably have to rotate the honing wheel til it drops into the correct position. 

Note :  there's a great YouTube video on this procedure at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IX96a9WoAJE. It is much, much better than the instructions in the box. 


Ok, so at the end, it was definitely worth the cost & effort.  My stones run SIGNIFICANTLY truer.  Far less wobble. 

I have an old SG-250 that was close to end of life (187 mm diameter).  When I went to true it up, it really showed me how out of true my last shaft was.

And, the ease with which I can change the stone now is amazing.  This is also a great upgrade, and kudos to Tormek for allowing me to do this without having to buy a new machine (mine is doing just fine).

If you have the older shaft, I definitely recommend this upgrade. 

I have a Tormek Supergrind 2000 that I've had ten years or more. When you got one back then, it came with the ADV-50D jig for truing the stone.  That was OK, but generally so painful that it was avoided until absolutely necessary. 

Well, I finally took the leap and bought a TT-50. Man was I stupid for waiting so long.

The TT-50 makes me take the time to do a proper truing of the stone.   It also is easier to move the diamond cutter across the stone also.  And when I'm done with as many passes as needed, the stone is so smooth that I can use it right away (with the ADV-50D, I had to use the stone grader to smooth out the big ole ruts in the wheel).

One lesson learned:  don't try to be to aggressive with it.   I was, and ended up taking a row of chips off the edge of the stone as I came to the end of my pass.

Ken S. - I'm holding the AVD-50D for you.  That way you can have a complete collection of jigs !

So, it was really cool to meet Ken S recently.  One takeaway I have is about the SVD-185 which I've been using.  Ken let me see the difference between that jig & the SVD-186 !   Wow, it is really something. 

Ken makes a big deal about the zinc casting.  I can't speak to that; it doesn't mean that much to me.

The bigger throat is cool, but my lathe gouges fit ok in the SVD-185.  (I only use ½" & ⅜" bowl gouges.). That isn't a deal maker for me. 

But I can immediately see why I'll buy one.  Setting the angle :
  1. is significantly easier,
  2. is much more repeatable,
  3. is more secure, &
  4. doesn't require an Allen wrench.

And, as we all know, repeatability is one of the truest values for the Tormek system. 

So, it was really cool to meet Ken :  such a wealth of information and a real gentleman ! 

If you get the chance to meet a fellow fan of the Tormek sharpening system, I highly recommend it.  The forum is great, but seeing how another person does something yields great ideas.  And sometimes those small tidbits make a huge difference in the work.

Other notes are in different forum strings.

Rolf,

I'd like to see more of the rack you use to store your jigs.  That looks like it is very well done.  (And I'm always looking for good ideas to steal replicate.)

Kind regards,
Rich

[compleat]

Woodworking is a very old trade, and compleat is a very old adjective.  (Even though Tormek is a relatively new tool in these terms!)

In Britain, compleat is archaic, used in writing only as a bit of whimsy, and at that rather rarely. It is more common in North America, though often equally whimsical.

The Oxford English Dictionary (OED) says that compleat is just an archaic spelling of complete. It died out around the end of the eighteenth century. One of its last appearances was a reference to George III in the US Declaration of Independence: "He is at this time transporting large armies of foreign mercenaries to compleat the works of death, desolation and tyranny". The OED also says that one sense of the word refers to a person who is accomplished, "especially in reference to a particular art or pursuit".

This sense died out in Britain in the early nineteenth century but was reintroduced in the archaic spelling at the beginning of the twentieth. For this we must blame Isaak Walton, the author of The Compleat Angler, or the Contemplative Man's Recreation; Being a Discourse of Fish and Fishing, not unworthy the perusal of most Anglers. Writing in 1653, he naturally used the older spelling of complete and modern editions retain it.

Because Isaak Walton's book title has remained so well-known, one unexpected result has been that the word in that spelling and in that old sense has been taken as a model in modern times. For example, when Messrs W and A Gilbey published a book on wine in 1953, they couldn't resist calling it The Compleat Imbiber. You may also find phrases like compleat actor, for someone who has all the skills and qualities of that craft. And the science-fiction writer Ben Bova wrote in his book Mars in 1992: "Jamie realized that his father had become the compleat academic: nothing really touched him anymore; he saw everything in the abstract". This usage, as I say, is more common in the US than in Britain.

So the short answer is that compleat and complete were originally different spellings of the same word, but under the influence of Isaak Walton's book title the older spelling has taken on a distinct meaning, especially in modern American English.

[I'm a big fan]

hello Ken and Jan,
With your help and recommendations in this topic, I finally made 2 Stainless steel Kenjig.

Here is the first one based on double ball bearing.



Double ball bearing in situation :

I'm a big fan

Sheang sent me the double bearing model (I call it the "Han-Jig"), & I got it this weekend.   Used it to setup my Tormek to sharpen a number of knives.  This thing is the bee's knees.

I'm a big fan of using the TTS-100 to setup for sharpening my lathe tools, & the Han-Jig is really like using the TTS, but for knives.

Sheang did a great job :  This is something worth making for a compleat set of jigs !!

Rolf,

Most PCs have CD drives, not DVD drives.  DVD disks are not accessible in a CD drive, but CDs will work in a DVD drive. 

If you have a CD drive, you will have to watch the video on your TV via the DVD (or Blueray) player.

That is my first guess, diagnosing this with little information.

Kind regards,
Rich

Can it be added to the Tormek site ?  Who owns the copyright?

I currently have the T-7 and am looking at purchasing a T-4. I am very interested in using my used up T-7 wheels on the T-4 so I would like to ask the knowledgeable folks on this forum the following question. What would be the best way to reduce the width of a used T-7 stone to fit the T-4 shaft? Is it doable?
I would guess that someone would be able to suggest a method to at least make this remotely possible. Ideas?

I asked that very question a while ago, even proposing a "T47" for this.   In the end, the general opinion is that it is cheaper to have separate stones & upgrade my T2000's shaft to accommodate easier wheel changing via the knurled screw.

Ken,

I purchased my Tormek T-2000 about 15 years ago.  It has the steel shaft, and the inner washer was indeed rusted.  I attribute that mostly to the fact that I was too lazy and didn't empty the water tray after each use (that way I didn't have to wait to get the wheel re-saturated).

I didn't really find the "issue" until I went replace the original grinding wheel late last year (hence all the other posts about a T-47 to use old wheels ...).

But, I just took to a grinder that has a wire brush wheel, cleaned it and the shaft up, put everything back together (with a little lubricant).

I'm planning to add a Japanese stone, so I'll probably opt for a new shaft at that time.  I do believe the reversal of the tightening nut will make the grinding wheel more secure.

Rich

Jan,

I took some time at lunch today to re-grind my skew with the proper use of the SVS-50 Multi Jig :

.

The grind setting I used is

• projection = 55mm
• skew angle = 20^o
• Hole = B

(By the way, the initial shaping using the BGM-100 made this a LOT easier !)

Once finished, I measured the angle on the WM-200 AngleMaster, and found the angle to be 40^o.



As I was grinding, I noticed that the TT-100 also has grind angle measures, so I measured it on the TTS-100 Turning Tool Setter, and found there to be a tight fit when the angle is measured to be 45^o.



Given the differences seen, I measured this using a carpenter's angle finder tool and a protractor.  This showed the angle to be 41^o.

 

So, I would tend to believe the angle measures on the WM-200, but if the angle is critical, I recommend you use a protractor.  Hope that helps.

Please note :  I just realized that I have been setting the projection wrongly on the SVS-50.  I was measuring to the housing, not the tool seat.  So, that is why the included angle I reported may be different that you'd thought it should be.

When I measured it using the WM-200, it showed as 50^o ! 

I checked a reference book I have from Leonard Lee titled, The Complete Guide to Sharpening (I bought this before the Tormek).  He says that skews should have an included angle of 12.5^o to 15^o.

From my own experience though, when I had a smaller angle, it was no where near as good an experience on the lathe.  Too hard.  This setup works wonderfully for me.