Messages

Hi,
Smaller woodcarvingtools are easiest sharpened with the stones direction and with a finer stone. Using the SP-650 and smoothen the grids is an important step.
What I have seen during many years are that some tools dont have the same thickness all over the blade. This makes them a bit tricky to sharpen and the easiest way is to follow the steps on page 69 in the handbook (SVS-32/SVS-33) and make a "line of light", flattening the edge against the stone and use this to have control over where to remove more or less steel until you have reached the tip .This is controlled by less pressure on the edge where you need to be careful so you dont remove to much steel which will otherwise make a unwanted dip in the edge line.


Sincerely,
Stig

Hi,
We have been in contact and we will sort this out of course.
In general an email to our support is always faster handeled than to be noticed by us on the Forum.

Best, Stig

Looking after the machinery is always satisfying and understandable. Personally, I am a bit lazy when it comes to this and normaly I take an afternoon in the summer cleaning up the workshop with a couple of cold ones.

Best,
Stig

Hi RREvans,
With the Ezylock we recomend the same annual service as we had on the older machines without this system. Remove the stone and shaft and check if there is enough grease on the nylon bushings and check the shaft so it looks as it should.
You will not need to remove the stone after every sharpening session.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
We don't recomend using bleache on the stones.
How come you want to sanitize the stone?

Best,
Stig

Hi,
You are doing the right things. But you need to repeat this over some days. Let the oil work over night, give the shaft a light knock a cuople times each day and repeat untill it loosen. Patience is the key to get this to work.

Best,
Stig

Hi Stevo
There is no need for that when the knife is honed correctly. After you have honed it, wash it with hot water and soap before use.
You can hone the knife 2-3 times between the next sharpening session. I normally sharpen my knifes 1-2 times each year but uses the honingwheel a couple of times between I use the stone. This keeps my knife in good shape.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
Diamond and CBN wheels can be used wet or dry, depending on the design of the wheel too, looking at the picture you can see a weld and rust.
Using Honrite gold, which make the water non-corrosive, prevents rust and is nessecery to keep the wheel from problems.
Some like to use it dry and some with water.
Wet will remove particles from the edge while sharpening, dry will build up remeins of the metal at the edge tip.
If the steel gets warm on using a CBN/Diamond wheel on a Tormek you apply way to much pressure which also will damage the wheel.


Best,
Stig

Hi,
The machine is a 1200 model and looks like it's in great condition  The sharpening-wheel is not original, and it's Diamond grid.

Best,
Stig

SharpenADullWitt,

I guess you mean Sashami knifes, which are sligtly hollowed/flat on one side and a long flat edge on the other. Those can't be sharpened on a T-2 if you dont think its ok to have a secondery bevel on them.

A Tanto knife was historicly a stabbing weapon and modern Tanto knifes has a angled shape to be able to pentrate tough materials.

I have a Sashami knife which I haven't been in need of sharpening yet and I doubt that i will do it on my Tormek. I don't use it much as we don't make the kind of food it is designed for either  And I think I can hone it several times before I need to put it on a stone.

Best,
Stig

SharpenADullWitt,

No, straight edges only. Most serrated knifes dont have the same blade as a regular blade though. They are more flat on one side so I don't recomend converting them to a straigh edge.

Best Stig

Hi,
In time the T-2 will be available in more countries.
For a sharpening business the T-2 is maybe a complement for a T-7/T-8.
T-2 is for the serious amateur chef, resturants and larger kitchens who has no experience of a Tormek or in sharpening in general.

Best,
Stig

Hi,

On the web page we have this link http://tormek.com/international/en/resellers/

On the new webpage it will also be listed. If somone sell Tormek they can get parts.

Best,
Stig

Hi all and a happy new year!

For knife sharpening our SG-250 is the best way to go, If you got some nasty nicks you can use 220 grid and finish with up to 1000 grid before honing.

A CBN wheel with 600 grid will not be faster than a 220 grid SG-250 and a CBN wheel 160 grid means you must use longer time to finish.

Our diamondwheel on the T-2 works great for knifes but if you are a little nerdy thats not enough. I still use our standard machines for my knifes because I have better control and the leather honingwheel gives me a finish on the knife that is better than on a new expensive knife.

If you are a experiensed Tormek user you sharpen as fast on the T-4/T-8 than on a T-2.
I have met knifesharpeners that has been using Tormek for years and are doing it freehand. When I sharpen a knife with the jig they admit that they have not learned how to use the jig correctly, and that its faster and gives a better looking edge than they doing it freehand. Now, we have some very experienced knifesharpeners on this forum that do sharpen freehand with very good result but also say that they use the jig on more expensive knives.

My suggestion is to learn to use the jig, it will be a bit slow the first days but when you got the speed up it takes less than 10 sec to attach the jig.
Use the stonegrader depending the knife you are sharpening, if the stone needs to be fine or coarse.
If it takes more than 3-4 minutes to sharpen a regular dull knife you are doing something wrong. Maybe you apply to little pressure when sharpening and also when honing.
It depends not only on the grid of the stone but also on the operator.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
The top of the T-2 is different than on the T-4 to fit the jig.
And it would not fit the T-8 because the house is larger which would not work with how the angleadjuster is made.

Best,
Stig