Messages

Thanks for your thoughts, Jeff. I agree about a "ford vs chevy" being inappropriate for this forum. 

Over the years, except for drill/drivers, I'm a "plug and play" person. I like the convenience of plugging a tool into an AC receptacle and pulling the trigger switch. For many years I used a Makita 9.6 volt drill at work (telephone).  It served me faithfully even though pushed to its limits and beyond.  When the company switched to 18 volt drills, the old Makita served me for many more years at home.What finally was dying was the batteries, not the drill.  In the midst of paring down to move, I gave the drill away.  Since then, I have used a lot of screwdrivers, much to the dislike of my wrist.

My old batteries were ni cads.  I'm really behind the times with battery knowledge.  My main source of current information has been a couple conversations with a Milwaukee rep.  Naturally he had a brand preference.  Over the years I have noticed friends in the trades using all different brands of tools.   I suspect there aren't too many bad battery tools being made and that most of us buy tools, like vehicles by habit.

In my case, I believe the lighter weight of the 12 volt tools would be more useful than the greater torque and bulk of the 18 or larger sizes.  The impact driver technology seems a significant improvement over the old drill/driver.  The lithium ion batteries would seem to hold a charge much longer than the older ni cad technology.  Unlike my ancient ni cads, I think new, fully charged lith ion batteries would at least outlast the operator.

The old 9.6 drills might have seemed to have more power if I had a tormek drill bit jig available then.  i was one of the very few who actually resharpened the long bell hanger bits. I used a file for that. Then again, I generally used them in a brace......

Ken

Thanks, Jeff.  I don't know why the square drive isn't more popular.  The manual screwdrivers and bits are certainly available and not overpriced.  (I even have one of those "four in one" drivers with different sizes of square drive.)  Lee Valley sells a nice package of all sizes in different lengths for around ten dollars which should cover the water front with power tools.

I recently bought hundred packs of screws in three lengths.  While the square head (or Phillips) might look odd on a reproduction piece, it isn't a problem for most of what I would do.  It does a fine job of securing a Closetmaid vertical support or a shelf bracket to a stud.

I am leaning toward a 12 volt impact driver instead of the larger and more powerful 18 or 20 volt models.  I am not planning any industrial strength projects, and the lighter tool should work very well.  The milwaukee 12 volt lithium ion driver seems a good choice.  Anyone on the forum use one, or have other suggestions?

Ken 

Good thought, Rhino.  I have been frustrated with drill/drivers camming out.  An impact driver is definitely on my radar. 

Recently I have started using Robertson square drive screws.  They seem a little less likely to cam out.  I think the combination of square drive and an impact driver would be just the ticket.

Ken 

Before I retired three years ago to become a very full time grandfather, I worked for AT&T (formerly the Bell System).  Sadly, when the Bell System was broken up by the government, one of the casualties was the Bell Labs, one of the premier research facilities in the world.  Much of our electronic age came out of Bell Labs, and I don't see where any other organization has replaced it, at least on such a large scale.  So, the northern hemisphere undervalues R&D, also.  Too bad.  I like the work.  (I installed and repaired telephone  and data circuits.)

I also enjoy sharpening.  Perhaps that's my inner cave dweller.

Keep progressing.

Ken

Kat,

Keep up the good work!

I don't know if you are familiar with Lee Valley (leevalley.com), a North American woodworking supply store (Canadian with a large US presence).  In their catalog and online they list a series of turning chisels by P&N (Patience and Nicholson).  Being made in Australia, you may already know them.  They look like solid, professional tools.  When you start looking beyond your beginning set, you might consider some of these.  I believe you may find that most of your beginning tools are actually adequate for more advanced work.  Where really nice tools come into play is with the spindle and/or bowl gouges.

The P&N tools are sold, at least in the US, as unhandled.  Tool handles are not difficult to make.  Making your own handles for these tools would give you the dual satisfaction of "Buying Australian" and working with tools you made yourself.

While owning the latest iWhatever gadget may be geekish, using a gouge you have custom sharpened on your Tormek and with a handle you have turned yourself would set you apart as the Prima Geekette.  It provides evidence of skill, not just possession! 

Ken

Kat,

I happen to have the turning tools attachments for my Tormek, although I have never used them.  (i just moved to a house with a basement large enough for a woodshop and am in process of putting one together)

Tormek provides a DVD by Jeff Farris demonstrating how to use the Tormek lathe jigs.  It is very well done and also has a part showing the various turning tools in use.  I would recommend it highly.  I think Tormek has done a fine job of engineering the sharpening of turning tools, in fact much better than sharpening knives.

In my own home shop today, I was working on some clothes drying rods for my wife.  I installed them yesterday, only to discover that the stair rails I used were larger than those I had used in the past.  I needed to make them smaller using the bandsaw and hand planes.  All went well, but my planes are now in need of a session with the Tormek.

As much as I enjoy sharpening things, the real joy is in making them dull.

Do continue to keep us posted.

Ken   

Kat,

Welcome to the forum.  I'm pleased the rep stood by the product and made it right. 

You are off to a great start with your chisels. In addition to having some sharp working tools, starting with chisels will also give you a feel for the Tormek and how it cuts.

Best of luck and keep us posted.

Ken

I found this earlier this week, and thought you might find it interesting.  Peter Follansbee works at Plimouth Plantation and works in the seventeenth century woodworking manner, which includes using hatchets.

http://blog.lostartpress.com/2012/07/23/peter-follansbee-on-hatchets/

Ken

The problem toward the end of "forever" may not be the polymer housing.  It may be finding an archaeologist who can translate the original English or Swedish and finding a compatible power source.

I suspect the polymer housing will more than outlast the original owners.

We hobbyists, myself included, tend to solve theoretical problems before they appear in the real world.  For the record, I replaced my stolen T7 with another T7, so I'm poking fun at myself.  The large wheel does feel comforting. (as long as I don't have to move it too much)

Boomer, are you still out there? Did you ever make a decision?

Ken

Jimmy, when you go to work on the chisels, be sure to take a sharpie marker and a small square with you.  Before going, if you have not watched these, I would recommend studying them.

http://www.sharptoolsusa.com/demo.php

Spend the most time getting the first chisel right and the rest will follow.  Remember not all chisels are ground parallel, so "square" may be "close".

Good luck and keep us posted.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Tris.

Most knives have a "double bevel".  Therefore, the cutting angle is divided in half, half for each bevel.  Watching this demonstration video should help you get up to speed.  It's done by the forum moderator, Jeff Farris.

http://www.sharptoolsusa.com/demo.php

Keep us posted.

Ken

ps

I would suggest sharpening a few basic tools, (the proverbial 3/4" chisel or similar) before looking for more jigs.  There is no projected shortage of jigs, including the revolving base.  You can make more informed choices with some sharpening experience under your belt.

Enjoy your new Tormek.

Ken

Welcome, Jimmy.  I use tap water.  It's easy to forget that the root of the Tormek is rubbing metal against rock.  I realize you just spent more than an iPad would cost, but it's still metal and rock.  That's no put down; your Tormek will be working (better than now because of your increased experience) when iPads are a note in the history books.

I think it's more important to keep the water away when not using the machine.  Most of the stories of damaged machines I have read on the forum have come from not bothering to dump and clean the water trough.  No need to go overboard with this.  Just start the day with clean water and end with a clean, dry trough and wheel.

I do like to keep my machine covered to keep the shop dust off.  I have used the Tormek covers and old towels.  Both work very well. 

Keep us posted.

Ken

Good job, Mike.  Hang in there and thanks for posting.  Very good photos, too.

Ken

Excellent suggestions, Ironduke.  My only regret is that you did not post them in May.  i would certainly have incorporated some or all of them in rehanging the cupboards.  The cupboards have been rehung in the basement for several weeks.  Wanting to have them more secure, I mounted them on a ledger strip securely screwed into the studs.  They hold my woodworking library, which is heavy.  Any future cupboards will be beefed up with your suggetions.  Should these come loose, they will be, also.

Thanks for your ideas.

Ken