Messages

Fritz,

I added the BGM to my 8" grinder, & use it for reshaping tools that I later resharpen on the Tormek.  As you noted, the difference in diameters (8" vs 250 mm) does leave a slight hollow grind when first coming off the bench grinder.  That's ok for me as the Tormek then adds a micro bevel, & over time the slight hollow from the bench grinder gets ground away.   

I haven seen what you are talking about regarding different angles.  But I did notice you have mounted the BGM quite high off the bench.   I didn't add blocks like that.   Don't know if that makes a difference or not. 

Oh, by the way, I use the BGM all the time on some scraper tools which have carbide inserts.   It's the only way I can get a significant burr easily. 

Rich

I LOVE that !!  And thank you for the pictures.   I wasn't following the CAD drawings. 

Rich

Rick,

The Nagura stone wears away quite fast.  I don't know the physics, but would bet it is the same as the rubber block for cleaning a sanding belt.

Kind regards,
Rich

Where can I get the Nagura stone? 

I got mine at Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037M4R7A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ).

I haven't tried Wootz' recommendation.   Sounds promising.

Rich

I use a Nagura stone.  Works well & is fast.

Rich

Chris,

I added those to my Tormek 2000, & it is running greatly.  I've no plans to replace it. Maybe supplement it with a 2nd one ...

Rich

Rick,

What I'm saying about chisels & plane blades is this :  they are held by a jig like the SE-76 or -77.  This jig rides on the USB and moves only laterally.  So, if the USB is not exactly parallel to the wheel's surface, the chisel or plane blade will be sharpened so that the edge is not exactly 90 degrees to the blade's side.

This can happen easily due to two things :

• the grindstone truing happens from the vertical position, and I sharpen those blades from the horizontal position. This change will certainly introduce some level of error, though it will be small.
• even when using the same position, just moving the USB in or out will introduce some error as the machine does not ensure perfect alignment of the USB arms, and this will also certainly introduce some level of error, though it will also be small.  (Ensuring perfect alignment would require a significant enhancement to the machine's cost!)

In the world of machining, this is a big deal.  But, I don't know how much this will matter unless you're a far better woodworking expert than I.

Kind regards,
Rich

Rick,

I'm in your camp.  Except for plane blades & chisels, the alignment of the USB to the stone isn't terribly critical.  That is because most jigs moves freely along the USB.  (I don't sharpen planer blades.)

But, as I sharpen the tools like bowl gouges, I find there are ruts or other unevenness left on the stone surface.  Truing the stone gets it back to flat. 

And as for using up the stone, i have had my Tormek for 15 years, and have fully consumed one SG-250 grindstone, and half of an SB-250 grindstone.  The SJ stone I have is still 240-245 mm.  So, I figure getting 10 years or so from a stone isn't too bad.

Rich

Ken,

The original reason for 'my' commentary is the premise that an organic engine input (hands) likely would have an impact.  For example, learned that the SJ-250 needs an *extremely* slow movement.  (>90 seconds) otherwise, you'll end up with what appear to be "waves" on/in the stone.  Resulting in the need to make multiple passes to "fix the fix".

I'm just lazy.

Rick,

I was thinking of something like an Rose Engine lathe overhead drive (here's a good article about one http://www.whidbeyworks.com/root/Ornamental_Obsessions_files/Overhead-Spring2008.pdf ).  Your motor would work with that.   And, adding micro switches to stop it at the end might make this a really cool option where you could start it and walk away (to grab a cup of coffee ...).

Rich

I thought with the SJ stone, you didn't need to use the leather wheel?  (thought the point of it was honing/polishing)

SADW,

When I use the SJ wheel, I don't hone on the leather wheel.  I haven't found it necessary.

Kind regards,
Rich

Why Jeff Farris video's are old, they are pretty much the only ones out there.

I've catalogued a number of resources on my site (www.SharpeningHandbook.info).  Click on Sharpening Resources at the bottom of the page.

Rich

I am in Atlanta, GA.

I went to school there :  graduated from Georgia Tech in '87.  Lived just past the big chicken at Kennesaw Mtn.

Everything beyond the basics is like adding parts to a car/mc/etc... you may start with one that'll get you around, but then add to it as your needs/wants/knowledge/(money) grows.   

Anyway, I'm trying not to write a book...

I read that book ... Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance.

Looks good! (Glad she gave in!)

Cutting what it needs to cut, is often the best test. 

Thank you.  I agree!