Messages

That makes me think about duty cycle.  Is the duty cycle loaded or unloaded?  By that what I mean is, is it in the electrical (run the motor for 1/2 hour then off for 1/2 to cool down), or more in the bearings (where your pushing against it, and then when your not it is resting, even though the motor might be on).
I see this as a question that others might wonder in the future, so better to have it out asked and answered for the search index.

Some scissors come apart, others don't.  (I haven't sharpened any yet, been waiting for garage sale season)
I am wondering if part of the reason for the dual bevel, is getting close to the other side and it either hitting something like the stone (or whatever else it was sharpened on), or the sharpener, trying not to get stuck by it, and then somewhat changing the angle of attack?

[We eventually fertilize the field!]

We don't leave the field; we just plan better.
We eventually fertilize the field!

Don't be poorer; be more skilled and more focused.

Ken

Skills do help.  Tools just make the job easier, skills give you options on how to do things with both good and lesser tools.

Ken,  I've wondered how close the footprint chisels are to the old Marples?

I understand getting a new chisel, but to me, I still prefer to find and use a garage sale one.  I've seen them in various conditions from a user, to used to open paint cans.  That also gives me practice on refurbishing tools (one of the reasons I wanted a Tormek).

Is ceramic one of the exotics that the Blackstone might be better with?  (since some places allow you to buy a different stone with the machine, figured ask before buying)

Stone grader
There are a few posts on the forum about the stone grader and it being dished.  I see a few comments but don't know where the original thread it about using the edge of the stone grader.
Examples
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2268.msg10902#msg10902
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2330.msg11313#msg11313
Universal support
My 2000 has a threaded bar with a black nut.  I don't remember if I had and gave my dad the non threaded one (its late and I can't sleep or think straight now).  If yours is threaded, then the differences between that and the current one (based on the time frame before the T-7) is it had the black knob that changed to a silver one with grading.  And the bar has a hole in the end for some jigs to use a knob to keep from running off.
IMHE, I don't think the markings on the knob are that important (I tend to look at the alignment jig when using them, not the knob), and the hole on the end, I found an earlier post and followed the recommendation of using a magnet on the end (hand bumps it first).
Horizontal support
At some point I might upgrade my jig to two knobs on the horizontal support, by ordering the kit for a bench grinder (rough shaping of tools), but I haven't found a need for either yet.

The TT50 stone grader is the only thing I would say jump on for sure.

I am going to open my mouth and try not to insert my foot here (stupid question alert)...........

What do the bushings look like when they break down?  (how do they break down)

I helped disassemble and rebuild an oven door axle assembly at my friends pizza place.  The local place was out of the correct temperature bearings when done 3 years prior, so some lower temp ones were used (without them knowing).  The one bearing pretty much disintegrated on the one side, so it looked like the door was off kilter.
Would a wore out bearing (maybe not likely) make it look like the shaft was bent and wobble?  What about vibration if two were bad?

This is an inexpensive part and something on the maintenance list, so I am wondering what happens if ignored and it fails.

Should I zipper it, or did my foot stay on the floor?

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1004.msg2446#msg2446

Common issue seen from lightly used Tormeks, from what I have read. Most likely need to lightly sand the drive wheel to stop the stalling.  If you have to start it spinning by hand:
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=969.msg2320#msg2320

90 Weight grease sounds thick (but I think my brain is on axle lube, as it is late).  Teflon based lubricant, Superlube and White lithium grease have all been recommended or used by members here (that I am aware of).
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1472.msg4816#msg4816

Still trying to figure out the attachment for my sense of humor.  Happy New year in case I am not back before it hits.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l8T7YOdWpw

I've seen several video's on rehandling (from making them with hand tools, to a lathe, to even a piece of a broken broom handle, like my grandfather would have done), but several did what the above did and it stuck with me.  The copper pipe end piece to keep the handle from splitting.

Compared to some I have seen, your looks useable still.  Clean and fill the crack with epoxy and refinish to get some moisture back into the handle. (another option)

I agree with you on the paperwork, because I wasn't sure about the reason for the two holes.

I also found it odd, that this video, seems to be sponsored by someone who sells/used to sell? Tormek stuff (now them seem to have a clone), and NOT Tormek themselves or through Jeff's Tormek video's (wouldn't this have been back when he was "associated" with them and not just selling them?).
Still, I found it by going through every video I found on Tormek on Youtube, and thought posting it here for future questions, might make finding it easier.  If it helps someone in the future, it has done its job.

There is a tool that I did, that I would have liked a longer bar, or the bar drilled for the stop. (mine is prior to that)
After searching this forum, I found Jeff's suggestion to use a rare earth magnet, and picked up one between a nickel and quarter size and retried.  That made a difference.
It is an old suggestion that I don't see much, since the bar changed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IX96a9WoAJE&list=UUyS4VRap5TmeAno45sECfhQ

I used this along with the setting up your Tormek the first time (from the dvd), where I lubed the new bushings when I installed them with the shaft.
I didn't really see any wear on the old bushings (prior owner may have replaced them when ordering the new stone after chipping it getting the old off), but I would rather have spare then chance it.

I'd like to add to the dry grinder argument.  A lot of it depends on what you do with it.  Some change tools quite a bit, to experiment and see what they like (a lot of initial grinding).  Some love to refurbish used/garage sale tools.  Others, use them for tool dressing, cleaning up sloppy welds, etc.  I have a two Craftsman grinders (one square body, that is liked almost as much as a Baldor), one with a multitool belt disc sander, and a Baldor as well as my Tormek.  At some point I will either buy or build a buffer.  But I use them for different things then the Tormek (more fabrication, wire wheeling, buffing)
I'd probably get a slow speed one for tool refurbishing/initial shaping, if I retire someday and start used tool hunting (don't really need more stuff, just enjoy it).

I am sure you saw the other one on there, currently less, and in better shape (looked similar to how I bought mine, but mine came with less hand tool stuff, and more of the turning tool stuff).  As in so much in life, it is buyer beware.
I think a lot of us who visit this, would buy a second one, used, at the right price, for a different stone, just because.