Messages

I have an old unthreaded bar and this makes me wonder if this could be another method for Herrm's or Ionut's jigs (mounting part to get closer to the wheel).

In all honesty, while I have read some here about sharpening mower blades on the Tormek, for simplicity sake (and a trick I learned from several lawn mowing companies) is to use an angle grinder with the blade on the mower. (more frequent and when really bad, then you swap blades)

I have used valve grinding compound on my reel mower (it is still sold for that purpose), but it seems to me to be more messy then the Dursol.  Personally, I would be more apt to try some of the toothpastes out there first, as they are a mild polishing compound, I just don't think they would be as forgiving on the wheel (seems to me they might attract insects, via the smelly stuff/flavor ingredients).

I use the Dursol and like it.  The link in the OP, appears to me, to be the harder compounds that are normally used with a cloth buffing wheel.  There are ones that can be used with leather wheels (barbers used a green), but they tend to be softer then the ones used with the buffing wheels.  I think the liquid compounds like the Tormek and Dursol, tend to soak in the wheel and might last a bit longer, then the harder compounds, which I expect would rub off more.  My father uses a green (there are several manufacturers and they vary in hardness), one on a homemade leather wheel, in the drill press, but that is to buff tools out and help refurbish corroded tools.

I would imagine a little leadway, aka the benefit of the doubt to be given.  After all going through some old  posts, when the forum appeared to be only one section, there were some things that Jeff would either recommend some other method (typically professional, from what I have read), or advise against it (high end barber sheers, or a circular slicer blade).

The T4 wasn't out when we did that.  He has used hand wheel grinders for years, and always talked about the large treadle wheel grinder his grandfather had.  I had even offered to leave my 2000 over there, but he was afraid he would end up using up the stone. 
I agree that the T4 should be looked at, but now he will wait until my old stone is no longer usable.
One benefit, IMHO about the treadle idea over the others, is exercise.

Ken, the reason I picked HerJig is two fold:
Uniform number of letters, to make things easier to understand in the future
Yes, it does look more female, as we have had fewer female members, why not do something that might promote more female members.

I agree I don't think they have a problem with us designing our own jigs.  I think the naming they might have a problem with, as well as the selling here.

I wish.  He came up with another use for the treadle he has, a commercial sewing machine he uses with leatherwork (handicapped friend he does work for, bought it for him).
He ended up using the Tormek stone and several other bits (my duplicate jigs), on a copycat machine (since he is up in age, as well as several of his woodcarving buddies, they figure used is a more cost effective solution for the amount of use they will get). while looking for a used deal.

While typing about them, I expect they will end up abbreviations after a long enough time (and end up as part of a FAQ), that is typical of Forums, I don't believe that any combination will go with no confusion.
So my simple suggestion isn't much to type, KenJig, HerJig and a post in the forum, about useful, HOMEMADE, USER designed tools, where the instructions can go with the pictures, for the inevitable, "where do I find the plans", for those that aren't good with searching.  Then they eventually become KJ and HJ in posts.

I THINK (they would still have to rule on it), that that, falls within the acceptable use of this post:
"We have established this bulletin board forum so that Tormek owners and prospective owners can communicate with other owners. You are welcome to join in the discussion of any aspect of the Tormek system, from how to use a particular jig or accessory to the best way to store and maintain the system."  in the same way discussion about the wooden jigs, both before and after the turning tool setter came out, is.

My $.02

I thought having a wet stone would be a good thing, so i have done the oposit, remembered to make sure there was water in there to keep it good, wet and soaked..

Not a good idea. It will keep the lower portion wetter than the rest, will wick up towards the metal main shaft and housing, and will cause problems with rust.

It takes several days for the grindstone to completely dry out, and by then it will have long since wicked up and evaporated away any water in the trough that's in contact with the grindstone.

I am trying to remember some post about the stone, getting some kind of flat spot from having one spot sitting in the water most time.  Do you remember what I am talking about (was from the days before stainless shafts and caused rusting as well)?

We have had a few people on here, refurbish their machines over time.  I asked about it myself after obtaining my machine, because where the water tray sits, I had a bunch of dried on workbench crud, and figured the paint was chipped there.  Turned out it was more a mixture of glue and sawdust and where I have typically seen rust on my old models (where the water tray sits in the non use position) there was none.
I believe their finish is closer to a powder coat now and they have the stainless shafts (easier to clean, more durable).  So cleaning up after each use is a good habit and not hard to do.  If you have two stones and swap between them (SG stone and SB stone for instance), then you will want the one off the machine, to fully dry out, so try to hang it through the arbor hole for more surface area evaporation.  If you don't have two stones, I prefer to leave the stone on the machine to dry out, less chance of dropping.  I recommend lubing the shaft and its sleeves once a year on the same date to remember.  For me, that is the first day of spring, for a relative, his maintenance day, is the day he changes the batteries in the smoke detectors.
When your machine is dry and not going to be used for a while, I put on its cover.  If going to be used soon, or not quite dry, I don't worry about it.  I clean out the tray after each use.

withdrawn by popular request.

Sorry. but what does that mean?

He is still selling the video, but when he posted a sharpness tester, it started a whole debate about advertising on the forum.  So he removed the ad.

Does a new in box Tormek, come with a Warranty registration card?
A few years ago, they tried to go to the dealer only thing, where you couldn't find them on Amazon for instance.  They are back on Amazon now, both from authorized dealers, to Amazon itself, to at least in one case, a damaged freight reseller. (local to me)
At some point I expect this will stop again, but I believe in part, they allowed it to deal with competition from out of patent copies.

As for what kills forums, there was once a very successful Tormek users forum with nearly 1800 members. It had the type of rules you would approve and a strict moderator. Conversation dried up.  The last post was in February. Another forum of professional sharpeners nearly failed because it had no rules and it became clogged with posts by members complaining about other members. Once the handful of complainers were banned the forum thrived.

Are you talking about the Yahoo Tormek users group?  I joined it before this, because I found it first.  I liked the fact that they have some files there (like the knife guards), but wish they were allowed to post things like the current manual (not a fan of the email address thing), but I am not much of a fan of email based forums.  Webpage based are more easily search-able, from anywhere, without having to sign up/in (risking passwords, etc. to keystroke loggers, etc).

Ken, if you check the links I posted, the rule was BY Jeff.  When I posted that question, Jeff was still moderating this forum, and not going by his own rule (why I questioned it).  A few posts were deleted, in which I and a few others, joked with/about the spammers and that rule and no more was said.
The only way to really see what rules there are, that I can find, is to go through the registration process.
I've been through this forum, and still go through old posts, looking for information.  Not always real searchable and the easiest thing to do sometimes, is go page by page, starting with the last page, from when the forum was created and had one section only.  Doing that, I have seen what I thought was a little more openness, then when I saw the back and forth arguing, because a member preferred a belt sanding system over the Tormek, for some stuff.  We seemed to swing from one extreme to another in that argument (from person going into detail about why they liked that system, to others saying we shouldn't say things about competing systems at all, because Tormek sponsors this forum). I don't remember any moderator chiming in there on any rules OR violation, there of.
If rules were more CLEARLY posted, then I think there would be less of this, here and we could get back to the important stuff.

The rules are not enforced, IMHE.  For example I asked here: http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2099.0 about this "sticky" (not stuck): http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1314.0
Which if used would stop a lot of the spammers that we still get, as they use their company/usernames twice.
Unenforced rules, are certainly not clear rules.  This place seems to be more self regulating (treat others as you want to be treated), and that can still fall apart when personalities clash, IMHE.
I brought up Herm's jig, in another post, for a couple of reasons:
It was a MODIFIED jig (might cause issues for Tormek)
OUR name for it, could be misconstrued as a Tormek name.
The situations weren't quite the same.