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I meet a man in Sweden last December who made his own Head knife and a jig. I asked him if he could share it on the forum but he don't use internet at all.
However, I was free to share how he did it. I have no pictures yet but it was pretty easy.
The tool had a handle that he could remove, made of two parts of wood and to screws with nuts. When he removed them the tool was flat and in the tool he had a hole.
The jig was like our SVD-110 but smaller. I guess you could actually use Hermans idea and in the jig he had a pin where he mounted the tool in it´s hole.
So, using the right distance between the jig and the stone he got a perfect edge on the head knife.
I have a picture somewhere but I can´t find it right now. I guess I will be able to do so tomorrow.

Stig

Hi,
Log in to the forum, then you have categories Home  Help  Search and so on , and you go in to search and then you will find Advanced search under the search field.

Stig

Hi,
With load or without load, that's the question :-) The answer is that it does not matter.

The limit of 30 minutes is recommended. If you use it 40-45 it will manage that too. The motor runs faster in the T-4 than the T-7 so it will get warmer.
Personally when I sharpen, and I do that a lot, I never have the machine on for that long, not even the T-7. If I have to shape a lot of tools, I can´t stand constantly for 45 minutes without getting neck pains. And when I sharpen my own tools and knifes, it takes 15-20 minutes when its tools I sharpened before.

A Tormek machine is made for being used and built for it. That´s why we can offer the Warranties we do.

Stig

The difference of precision between the T-3 and T-4 is in the way it´s designed. T-3 had a plastic housing witch was not as stable (compared to the T-4) with its vertical and horizontal sleeves.
Since the T-4 has a solid Zink top witch the motor, shaft and sleeves are in one piece, the tolerances is way much better than the T-3.
The T-3 was a good machine but during the years we felt that we could do it even better.

The motor in the T-7 can not be used in the T-4, its bigger and would not fit. If there is a need for sharpening hours a time, the user should buy a T-7.

It´s like buying a car, if you have 5 kids, you don´t buy a VW beetle :-)

But to be serious, I understand the question. Even if you are spending 2 hours in the shop and need to sharpen many tools, you will find time to stop the machine for some minutes between hanging up the tools and so on.

Stig

"If the knife is flipped in the jig, then there is no need for the additional knob. One can use the same original knob as a guide. "

If you mount the cleaver in the bottom of the jig you will get the same angle on both sides even flipping the cleaver around.
The distance from the support bar to the stone is where you set the angle.

Stig

Hi,

I would use the knife jig on those shears. Have sharpened many of those and as Herman  wrote, use a marker on the edge to find and adjust the right angle.

Stig

Gerald,
I had an interesting meeting last week with a very good and  famous woodturner who has a Tormek 2000 and with an updated Ezylock.
"If I have one thing to wish from Tormek, he said, it would be that you made it easier to remove the stone. I had to use a plumbers wrench when I changed stone last time."
So I went to his machine, took a solid grip on the honingwheel with my left hand and with my right hand I grabbed the stone with a firm grip and pushed it away from me and easily loosened the Ezylock. He had forgot how to do it and also, he tried to open it as a normal threaded shaft.
It´s designed to lock very hard and even with a wrench it can almost feel stuck. But doing it this way or just a bit more power, it will loosen.

Stig



 

Hi,
Sharpening knives needs some practise and it´s a good idea to start with cheap knives to get the right technique.
Probably while sharpening you forgot to press the jig against the supportbar and the angle on the knife became to steep and it dug in to the stone.
I did it when I strated with Tormek too ;-) And I see that all the time at demos these days.
You can true the stone or use the stonegrader on the side of the stone and round it so you dont hear the sound of the gap.

Regarding Ezylock. Page 153 in the handbook will help you. Turn the stone clockwise by hand, holding the honingwheel also and it will loosen.

Stig

Hi,
Just checked out the video and using the jig that way would make the sharpening process less accurate.
Honing these kind of tools I also use the supportbar while honing.
Watch this video with Jeff Farris and at 1:45 you can see how to apply compound the easy way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n4GzXVQvUE

Please read the instruction again for the SVS-32

http://tormek.com/international/en/grinding-jigs/svs-38-short-tool-jig-svs-32/

Page 69 about Grinding shows a relevant tip. You need to flatten the edge and then use the "line of light" and then you see where to sharpen. A common problem is that users roll their tool all the edge line all the time and the the wings will be sharpened off.

Also, on a tool with very thin wings you need to use less pressure on the wings and use the honing-wheel to get the burr off. Many times when you are sharpening and thinking you are getting it right and then hone it, the burr made it look like it was done perfectly but you actually sharpened a little to much.
Page 20-23 in the handbook will also help you understand how it works.


Good lightning is important and clean water so you can see what's going on.

Hopefully this will help you get your tools right.

Stay sharp!

Stig

Hi,
You need to be pretty strong to bend the shaft and the power being used would stop the stone from turning, so I dont think thats the problem. However, if you have transported the machine in the car and drove in a big pothole, and the car jumped (and the machine) the weight of the stone and sudden force could maybe affect the shaft. I guess my answer is a long shot but something like that could maybe be the reason. I am pretty rough when I sharpen and apply high pressure and have never had any problems with this issue. I would guess that if the machine has been moved sometime and got some rough treatment something may have happened.

Stig

Hi,
This discussion is good to follow.
The machines are different for different needs, don´t let us forget that. If you are only into knifes, lets say you are a chef or a hunter, the T-4 with a knife jig is a very good buy. It will last for decades. I do know processional woodturners who has the T-4 and love it so it works for them too.
Also, many buy the T-3/T-4 for the size. Its easier to carry around when needed.
If you are into woodturning or in a business like carpentry, furniture-builder and so on (professional) , the T-7 is the machine that will meet all the demands.

Stickan

"Cleaver" idea 

However, the jig will not sharpen the same angle on both sides as the centre of the jig will be moved using it where the knob is.
So if that is necessary, use the knob as stop but mount the knife twice, first do one side, turn it in the jig and sharpen the other side.

Stickan

Thanks for the review Ken, an update after using it a while will be very interesting.

Stig

Tormek and I would like to thank both new and old members of the forum for this year and I hope next year will be as interesting as this was.
I am glad that we have this forum and I am very proud and happy about the information of experience that are given from you users.
I wish you the best next year and keep on posting!

Stay Sharp!

Best Wishes,

Stig

Thanks Jan 

Stig