Messages

Rob,
I can´t find any info on those blades more than "Heavy duty". I did contact a company who measured their planer blades in HRC (Theirs where 72HRC) and they even sell our jig with no complaints during all these years.
But the quality and hardness is the most important factor in this, a hard steel takes time.


Stig

Hi,
My feeling is that it´s mostly woodworkers on this forum and Tormek has since day one been a machine for woodturners and woodcarvers.
But for some years now Tormek has started to become the machine for hunters, butchers, fish industry and in general knife users. They did buy the T-3 and
don´t want the SE-76 jig. They felt that they were paying for a jig they don´t need.
That is a reason for the T-4 to not have a jig included and the buyer can freely buy the jigs he needs.
We can discuss that the T7 is a better buy because of the bigger stone, stronger motor, more accessories and so on but there are many users who thinks the T4 is good enough for them even if they know the sellpoints for the T7.
It takes less place, easier to bring and if you are only sharpening knifes its a perfect machine.

Herman,
"Then comes the problem of getting the end square.  "

I have sharpened a lot of chisels on the T3, T4 and T7 and this issue is the subject we answer most on the support mail.
We have had machines and some SE-76 sent to us and we find them to work as they are supposed to.
I found that most users don´t mount the tool as in the handbook, even if they say so.
First is the setup of the tool in the jig.

Think of the knobs on the jig as A and B, A being the knob away from the side where you mount the chisel.
Use A to get the thickness of the tool, lock it and open it enough to move the chisel to the shoulder were it should rest on and lock knob B. After this you don´t touch knob A. Now the clamp is parallel with upper flat side.

When the wanted angle is found and you start to sharpen the tool, press on the centre of the chisels back. Check by eye if you got a 90 degree angle on the tool after a short while. If it starts to get out of square, press on the side of the tool where you need to remove more steel. Then you will be able to get a straight chisel.

And my personal opinion is that if you think it looks like 90 degree it is good enough.
I have learned that old or often used narrower chisels can become a bit twisted. Then you need to use as little protrusion as possible to prevent a problem getting the chisel correct. Often the problem is the chisel itself and not the jig or machine.

Stig

Hi,
what kind of metal are your blades made of?
The hardness is between 60HRC to over 70HRC on most planerblades and that makes a significant difference.

Stig

My explanation of the material being behind the edge is already covered, Jan´s drawings and the other comments are what I had written so is would only be the same.

The angle master WM-200 is very good and are measuring the tip of the edge. It is compensated for the hollow grind. If you use a regular "angle setter" or a protractor you will fine that the degree will indicate that its not the same as the anglemaster. A protractor are not compensated for a hollow grind but for a flat surface.

Stig

Hi Guys,
Interesting subject to follow and good explanations.
I had prepared a long explanation but did not need to press "post"!

I wish you all a happy Easter!

Best Regards,
Stig

Hi,
We got the machine about 2 weeks ago and tested the machine for several hours with 122 Volt, a higher voltage, to see how warm we could get it and if it stopped.
The result was about 57 degree celsius/ 135 degree Fahrenheit witch is within tolerance and we got a lower temp when we measured on the motor housing. It worked all the time.

We can´t find anything wrong with it but it could be the switch since a click was noticed. The motor itself can´t give a click sound but the switch can.
The test did not show why it stopped. Even the switch works as it should.

We can't do much more than to test it and the customer have a new machine that works fine.

Stig

Hi,
I think it´s something with the stone, have you used the stonegrader on it?
Use the coarse side of the stone and refresh the surface.


Stig

Hi,
I did polish the edge, as I always do, but a little burr would have made it even easier. I did not use the japanese wheel on that knife.
But!!  A polished edge will stay sharp longer than if the burr is left on the edge.
I always polish with the honing wheel and it get´s as sharp as a new knife, sometimes I get even a sharper knife then it was new.
Once in a while I do even use the Japanese stone even If I know that I really don´t need to. But my knifes get´s unnecessary sharp and good looking then 
But I do know that most knife users gets really impressed by the sharpness the regular stone and honingwheel give.

Stig

Hi to all,
It´s possible to use the compound without having oiled the honingwheel and the result on the edge will be very good. However, without the oil it gets dusty. I don´t like that and I am sure the user will not like it. So I always use light machine oil on my demo machines.

Stig

Jeff55, You are a bit cynical ;-)

The machine has not arrived to us in Sweden yet.

Stig

Hi,
We are working on it right now.

Stig

Hi,
The stone should run true radially (up and down) within +-0.2mm ( Total 0.4 mm) as said in our handbook page 154.

Stig

Hi,
I must say we have some dedicated members on this forum :-)

If we go to the facts, one machine has a problem, and started this tread as "T-7 overheated" but we still don´t know if that's the problem as we have not got the motor to Sweden yet.
We are as interested as you because this is a very unusual situation , in fact, for my 5 years at Tormek, this is the first motor that is reported as a overheating.

It does say S1 on the machine-sign and have done so for many years, I will address this to the technicians.
We will not share any motor data sheet on this forum or to send it to someone. I don´t think it´s normal for many companies to share every detail.
We regularly test our motors very hard, continuous full power for up to 8 hours during several days, without any problem.

When we have tested the actual motor, I will report what we found was the cause of it. This will take 2-3 weeks.

If anyone has any further questions or worries, please send them to support@tormek.se and they will be answered from us within 24H weekdays.

Jan,
1) Maybe a good idea, however, I don't think many of us thinks about it, if you are not an electrician. So personally, I don´t find it very important. We do give the information that is acquired from us. I will take it up for discussion though.

2) We have been using S6-40% motors since we started using motors in the early 80´s, and still are, the first Tormek models were driven by a drill back when we started in 1973. But I learned today that the S6-60% is a motor we recently started to use, along with S6-40% .

Stig

The motor is rated at S6 – 60% duty which is defined in the EN60034-1 standard as 'Continuous-operation periodic duty'. This means a sequence of identical duty cycles, each cycle consisting of a time of operation at constant load and a time of operation at no-load. There is no time at rest and de-energized. Unless otherwise specified, the time for a duty cycle is 10mins.

Periodic duty implies that thermal equilibrium is not reached during the time on load.

As stated the motors are duty rated S6 60%. Therefore for S6 60% the motor can run 6 minutes under load followed by 4 minutes at no-load. I hope this explains things.

We have had the same motor since early 80`s.

Stig