Messages

Herman,
On the T-7 we had to manually adjust the sleeves to get them correct. There is always room for human error even if we have strict quality controls.
On the T-8 they are casted which means that the sleeves will get perfect.
Also, the holes are tighter in the sleeves on the T-8 which make the supportbar better aligned every-time you lock it.

But even if this is improved, the "problem" not getting a square tool is the way you mount the tool and press on the tool while sharpening.
Even if the sleeves are 100% aligned and the tool is perfectly mounted in the jig, the pressure you use and where on the chisels back can actually sharpen it out of square.

If so, press on the opposit side the get it square.
The new SE-77 will help this but even the SE-76 is a very good jig when used correctly.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
It is now possible to upload pictures the "normal" way, there are some restrictions on size and how many pictures per topic.
This is a test first so we see that the forum runs ok, hopefully we can keep the attachments pretty light.

So, press "attachments and other options" and learn about it.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
The T7 was a great machine and will serve well during many years to come but had some issues we always had to keep an eye on. No problems for the end-customer but for our staff we had a very high standard quality-check. Of course we don't do less effort in quality check with the new T-8, we want them to last for a long, long time.

The T-8 with a casted housing and sleeves inbeded in the housing makes the tolerances better when you need that extra precision.
Zink is sometimes cheaper than steel and vice versa but we use more Zink than steel so the cost is the same, also the cost is the moulding tools, the time spent to build them and design them, adding that to the machine it's more expensive.
The giant step over the T-7 is the precision of the sleeves, the water-tray, the drivewheel in Zink that will have never brake and it comes with the SE-77, which itself is a giant step from the SE-76.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
Tormek always tries to have the highest quality on our parts and we have many users with machines from the '80 and even older. The machine just keep working.
We will carry spareparts for many years after the last T-7 has gone out of warranty so there is no reason to stress about it.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
Could you please take a picture of the tip of the drillbit and share here, or send to support@tormek.se?
That would help me and quickly help you out.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
Sounds much worse than it actually is.
On page 49 in the handbook you have detailed info for tools for woodcarving.

You have the answer in your questions, you need the SVD-186 for curved gouges/swan necked tools or back bent gouges/shallow bent, straight tools under 38 mm are sharpened on the SVS-38 and Square chisels with SVS-50.

Sounds like your set-up of jigs would be SVD-186, SVS-38, SVD-110 and maybe the SVS-50.

If you have carving knives you need SVM-45 and maybe SVM-00 if you have knives with small blades.

In general I think its lazy by a retailer to say that someone should sharpen their tools freehand. If the clerk has the experience himself he/she should not think that someone else can do it. It takes years to learn doing it freehand and have ruined many dreams of becoming a good wood artist. Even most professional turners/carvers this days are using jigs. The cost of jigs are cheaper in the long run than buying new tools that you are removing a lot of steel on during freehand sharpening.

Read the manual, sharpen some tools by following our guidelines and its like learning to ride a bike. When you know how to do it, you don't forget.

Sincerely,
Stig

Hi,
All the jigs that are available can be used on older machines as long they have both horizontal and vertical sleeves. If it don't have the horizontal mounting is possible to buy that separately, it is called XB-100.

Best Stig

Hi,
As Ken and Rich write, when using a Tormek, learn how to use it with the handbook close to you. Don't read it all at once, but read about the jig you are using to sharpen the tool. After a while when you get to understand the method you discover shortcuts and use them. I have had demos and shown things and got comments that "that's not in the handbook" but after explaining why the user picks up new techniques.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
A drain pipe will get clogged from the remains of stone and metal though.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
I use a very light pressure on the jig when I am on the middle of the blade and higher at the tip and bolster.
I realise that we would within short make a short new instruction video which shows different knifes models.

My advice is to start with cheap knifes and get to learn a technique where you will use little pressure in the middle of the blade and keep an eye on the curve of the blade that the manufacturer made from the start.

After 10-20  knifes you will get an understanding how it works and will get a hang of it.
If you don't sharpen much knifes keep in mind about using more pressure on the jig on tip end end, less in middle.

Best,
Stig

Hi,
The bump will soften down after some use and should not be noticeable after some use.

There is always a bit of a learning process with the leather honingwheel and when you have got it right I am pretty sure that you will find the edge to work as good as you want it.
This video shows it pretty well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n4GzXVQvUE

Best,
Stig

Hi,
Using our 250 stones on a T-4 will not work, as they are 10 mm wider. It will not fit the watertray and also, not enough treads to lock it on the shorter shaft on the T-7.

We recommend to not use the stones under 180 mm on the T-7 and the same recommendation will be on the T-8.
In principle you can use it as long as you have water on it which is about 150 mm.

Best,
Stig

Hi,

Never thought of using the BGM-100 brackets, nice work!

Its interesting how we are, I find it way easier to sharpen knifes against the stones direction, as I feel I have better control. It keeps the stone square, makes shorter burr and faster honing.
That being said, both ways gives a sharp edge.

Best,
Stig

Jan,
Thanks for those kind words!

Best Stig

Hi,
We used two T-8's outside yesterday in the sun at a charity yesterday. We sharpened knifes constantly for 4.5 hours in the warm sun and the machines performed just as they should, no problems and a joy to use!
The housing has a rib system underneath and at the side of the honing-wheel. The fan of the motor sucks in fresh air and blow it out, all carefully designed so to keep the temperature at the right level.


Stig