Messages

Thanks Ken,

My time is worth a lot, and I have a good collection of hand planes and chisels. Current stone is a sg-250. Up to now, everything has been sharpened on waterstones or sandpaper - ( think .3 micron sandpaper). This means the initial profiling will take me 45min to 1 hour or even more for the plane blade. I just spent perhaps 2-3 hours cleaning up a Hock blade, that was pretty good to start with. I know that it will take me some time to get even a little bit capable with this, but I want to use tools not dote over them.

If I save 5-6 hours, that is worth the $250 for the black stone. It is not worth the $450 for the diamond wheels.

I don't know what the cutting action for the black stone would be, or if it even is worth the trouble.

Thoughts?

Ray

Hi All,

With my 'new' acquisition, I am becoming a sharpening fool 

Most of my plane blades are some form of tool steel: O1, A2, ...

These seem to take quite a while to profile using the white stone. Would I be better using the black stone. I know that the diamond stones would be great, but to rich for my blood. Thoughts?

Thanks

Ray

I just had some good results with a plane blade!!!

This will take some time to master...

Ray

Will do, thanks Ken

Ken - good advice!

Rick - There are a couple of improvements to jigs that I have read about - the wheel trueing and the plane iron jig to name 2. I will likely need to pick them up.

The other question is about a black or diamond wheel to handle the tool steel irons I have - thoughts?

Thanks for your help

Ray

Hi Ken,

Just checked, all I can say is that you have good eyes! That has been my trust go-to small square for a while and I never checked it...

Thanks

Ray

Hi All,

I am having a problem with my 1st attempts at sharpening.

This is a LN plane blade that got messed up by other attempts, guess I have a trend going!

The 1st picture is what I ended up with, sigh...

The 2nd picture is a small machinist square in the plane jig, against the wheel AFTER a long session with the diamond flattening fixture.

The 3rd picture is the square in the jig.

How did I mess up getting the wheel parallel?

Thanks

Ray

Oh well,

WRT the diamond tip, time to RTFM!    Thanks

Ray

Thanks Ken

The diamond point I have was destroyed, so I need to either buy a new tip or get the tt-50.

TireguyfromMA, looks like you are due east from me

Ray

Thanks Rich and everyone else.

I pulled the ADV-50 out of the box, and it was one of the few attachments that was actually used, and it was used incorrectly. There were 3 very small diamonds embedded in the copper (?), but the guy I bought it from wanted to clean up the wheel, and must have used it incorrectly and ground away a good bit of copper and I think lost one of the diamonds as well.

So, I will order the se-77 and the tt-50 to start with.

I was just playing with the Tormek and I was using a high quality (AKA hard) plane blade and it was still a bit of work and patience!

Ray

Thanks,

TireguyfromMA - I am up in the Lowell / Chelmsford area - assumption that you are also from MA!

I watched the upgrade video, read the hard-cover book, not much to do with this except to start using it!

Is this microfence thing just a dial with marks scribed, I have not measured the screw pitch, but it should easy enough to just mark it up.

It also looks like my shopping list should include a new water tray along with a new truing tool.

Ray

Thanks,

I will order the newer 'fence', and review the other stuff!

Ray

Hi All,

I JUST picked up a new-to-me Tormek. It is marked as a SuperGrind 200o, but came in a SuperGrind 2006 box. This thing is in like-new condition. No rust or damage anywhere, and came with the box

It came with a number of options:

SG-250 - stone with pretty much the entire stone there
SVX-150 - Scissors jig
SVM-100 - Long knife jig
SVD-110 - Tool Rest
SVS-32 - Short tool Jig
ADV-50D - diamond trueing tool
SP-650 - Stone Grader
SVH-60 - plane / Chisel jig
Book, VHS tape, Paste, and cover

I have looked at the forum a bit, and want to do any maintenance or improvements necessary. It looks like the main shaft is stainless, I am uncertain about the motor isolation - I understand that it was ultimately upgraded for the T7. I don't know if the support is the 'micro-adjustable' version yet, need to find pictures

I have to say that even used this system is not cheap. This pile O stuff cost me $300 and a used #7 plane!

Have yet to look, but I was wondering if there is something that supports skew plane blades?

My woodworking is generally cabinetmaking, so planes and chisels are the big care-about. Some of the plane blades are tool steel so I was wondering if this stone will work well. Are there any 'essential' jigs that I should look at. Is the newer plane / chisel jig worth getting given that I seem to have the older version?

Thanks

Ray