Messages

Mike, good to see you again (we've been on several forums together).
I just got another of this jig, as I loaned/gave the first one to my dad for carving.  (easier to replace then get schedules together at times) I am wondering if the Tormek is above the part it is pressed into?  (will it rock on it)
I know my new one (will have to check the old), is flat across, so I am wondering if that is your issue.  If it is a bit higher, then I would sand/file it down.  If it isn't, you could fill it with some kind of epoxy to make it flat for feel (so you don't notice).
I know your good at modifying tools (5625, EZ, etc)!

I checked this morning the Tormek logo other lettering are cast in not outward, although, still rough/catchy if I run a credit card across it.

Mine has raised letters - before I filed them flat just wanted to make sure I wasn't using the jig incorrectly.

(Looked at your profile and think I remember you especially from EZ - thought I'd try turning about a year ago and am deep into the vortex!)

Mike

First off the Tormek system is still somewhat new to me. I sharpened my spindle roughing gouge last weekend with this jig and is it just me or does the "TORMEK" logo cast into the jig bother others too? The logo and not a flat surface rides against the bar giving it a rough unsteady ride. Maybe I'm doing something wrong? Guess I can just file it down but wanted to check here first.

Thanks,

Mike

http://youtu.be/jc8Rdx2O17c

This should highlight the method a little better.  Apologies for the quality.  Filming with an iphone whilst narrating and operating an articulated bowl gouge jig don't appear to be one of my stronger talents!

The point is to show how you keep the grinding focused on the wings and don't worry so much about the very end of the gouge until the end when you match everything up.

Thanks for the video. I'm as new to sharpening as turning. I assumed once the new grind cleaned up the steel I was done. Didn't realize the user had some much control of the output. Here is my second attempt:

Thank you those pictures are great. I definately need more side grind. I have a Sorby kit and pretty sure I have an oval round nose scraper.

Mike

Thanks Rob. I do have the DVD from the Woodworker's kit (and watched it a few times) and the manual. I will try the new grind for my next bowl. On my first I had a couple catches but much better on my second. My big issue was cleaning out the inside of the bowl - seemed like I couldn't cut well as I reached the bottom. Especially when it got deeper. Maybe the new grind will help.

Mike

Rob - thanks for the reply. Yes, trying to duplicate Ellsworth just because I read so much about it. If possible can you give this newbie all the specs for a beginner for me? You mentioned #3 but what depth and front or back hole (A or B) for the wheel set back. Also, I can be dangerous and remove lots of material quickly. I have the dry grinder setup as well as the T-7.

Thanks,

Mike

I'm new to turning. I'm working on some cherry bowls. I ground my gouge to #6 75mm hole A. It just doesn't look correct and I had a few catches. Any suggestions appreciated: