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What technique would you suggest then, where

"the angle gets wider at the tip".

rocking the jig on its axis, but is shifting it laterally

I lift my elbows straight up causing the tip to lift.  If i glide the knife laterally the tip widens without sharpening

Ken,

I am sharpening some bits for a local Tool & Die Co this weekend.  I'll let you know maybe next week the outcome

Ric

Ken,

I am actually having a Tool & Die guy use the 4 facet bits i grinded for him to test.  I will let you know next week the results

Ric

I have a custom built table low enough to work over top the grinder sitting on a stool that has a back rest and casters.  I wheel around my work bench which is very efficient

The table is square and just slightly bigger than the Tormek unit fabricated from heavy wall steel tubing with a solid wood top.  I turn the table so a corner is up against the stool and below me.

The Tormek sits in the RB-180 rotating base which is an absolute God send having to flip around to the leather wheel or positioning the universal bar

Working this way though i find the need to wear a leather apron because the Tormek sharpened knives are unforgiving

Have fun, I am

[Ken S]

Ken S

SUCCESS!  Thanks Ken S, I took your word for it and S grinded a little more but at a marginal depth setting each time.  See my photo



I changed my technique and found a comfort level of keeping my fingers off the jig and on the edge of the grinding plate.

Do you notice that when you are near the end of the grinding that the stone still makes contact on its right edge of the wheel?  I don't think the wheel is warped and i have the Universal Guide firmly tight

Thanks Ken S

Ric

By the way

[KSMIKE]

Thanks KSMIKE.  Now i can explain what i'm talking about.

KEN S

What does this look like i'm doing wrong?



Ric

Ken,

On small bits i can grind the P facet in one shot.  Wider bits i need to tweek on the wheel to get the whole face

My problem seems to be with the S facet.  It grinds to a flat chisel and not the point

How can  i post a picture here?

Ric

Ken,

I get the 4 facet grinds (P), (S) but the point is still the flat chisel edge (C) and not the point (F)

I've been taking my time and watching Alan H and reading the manual carefully

Ric

After several grinding attempts with my new jig I am noticing that the P facet is where the S facet should be according to the instruction manual.  They are the reversed.

Furthermore the Point is incorrect

I've watched Alan Hotham's YouTube video over and over but thats not helping

I have a photo to show you but i don't know how to send it

I bought $6 Japanese knock off knives years ago and by keeping them sharp, visitors are amazed and praise me for how sharp and 'expensive' they are

What am i doing wrong?

1) I set my 10" Wenger chef's knife at about 17 deg which is about what i found as the factory edge using the sharpie.

- Using my left arm it grinds the edge almost right on the original bevel, but when i reverse the jig to flip the knife and use my right  arm the edge appears to be grinded about half a mm more than the factory bevel and it is noticeable when you compare the two sides under the light

- The tip is more evident the edge angle is off as one side looks more grinded than the other and looks off center

3) On a few knives i noticed the edge closer to the handle of the knife (ricasso) is deeper into the blade or rounded into the blade of the knife than the rest of the edge

Help!

After researching the Tormek I just recently purchased my T7 unit and i was wondering if there was a leather or buff wheel to polish a knife blade that can be installed on the grinder.  I used the T7 for the first time and noticed how well the Leather wheel can polish the edge, that if there was something to do the rest of the blade and make it a uniform finish