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Thanks for your response.  The bevel and the edge on the last 1 inch is affected.  A friend of mine and I had a brain storming.  I wonder if me being in front of the jig effects the cut.  This is why I say this, the jig has a little slop in the track between the jig and the blade holder rail.  I wonder if when I start moving the blades end toward the middle, if the blade holder is moving down due to the reduction in the wheels natural force to push the blade up.  Should I use this jig from behind the tormek (switch side) or do you think I'm on the wrong path?

Thanks for the replys.  Jeff, how do I tell if it's floating?  I look under the jig and see that the jigs moveable table is on the depth screw when I stop.  Now unlike the intructions, my gaps always appear on the depth screw not under the blade holder to the support.  I'm not talking about just a little extra grind in that location.  It wound up being twice the bevel width.  More info, the dewalt says to grind to 42 degrees.  So I set the angle master to that.  After having this problem I check it with my digital angle gauge and it seems thier angle was 37 degrees.  So I now have a "micro" bevel on the blades that looks like it's at 42 degrees and 1/8" wide.  So the area we are talking about is about 1/4" wide for about the last inch of the blade.  Thanks for monitoring Sawmill creek.  There's a lot of experiance there.  That's why I posted to both.  When we solve this we should post the results there for those guys.

......update.  Read more on this site and more in the book.  Went back out and started all over.  Regraded the wheel.  Reset the jig.  Rechecked that the blade was seated.  I ground another bit off and it continues to "snipe" the outside wheel side of the blade.  The extra grind or snipe is about an inch long.  So I finished the grind as best as I could and checked the flatness on my cast iron table saw table.  Yep, there's definately a snipe on one end of the blade.  So I checked the back of the blade and it was absolutly flat.  Undaunted I jigged up the next blade and had it done within 5 to 10 minutes.  Checked the bevel and it has a snipe on the same end for about 1 inch.  The beats all, I've jiggled the jig in the track and even though there is play, it has about the same amount of play all the way across.  The jig is square to the wheel, as proven by a strong light behind it.....now that was only checked during setup and at the center of the blade only.  The jig is strong and seems well made, but why am I getting the snipe?
Josh

I've shapened about everthing in my shop and so I just got a planer jig.  Pretty much followed the instructions.  Which in theroy looked simple.  I set up my angle lowered the unit until there was a little space between the adjusting screw (angle screw) and the unit.  I gound away.  Back and forth I went but one side, the right or outside of the wheel side, seem to need more grinding.  So I did.  The result was the blade is now ground to much on that side.  It's tight and square in the holder.  But the unit seems out of square to the wheel.  I press down on it after an adjustment to try to make sure it's sitting correctly.  But apparently it is bent some or I'm screwing something up.  This does not look like rocket science...what am I doing wrong.  Most everthing up until now have been brainless to do on the Tormek.

thanks for the reply.  my grader was so severe, I decided it was trash, so I took it outside and rubbed the heck out of it on a flat piece of rough concrete.  After about 5 to 10 minutes of very hard rubbing, the grader is again flat and it did not reduce the thickness much.  Good words on the method to use it.  Now I have a fresh start and can do it right.
Thanks again
Josh

My Stone Grader has become concave in the middle.  Not from the long edge to the long edge, from the short edge to the short edge.  In other words, if I put it to the wheel It will make the wheel have a hump in the middle.  This plays havoc with plane blades and leaves them concave in the middle if I'm not careful.  I understand that it should have the wheel shape running long ways.  And I have that, it's also got a depression running the other ways.  Can I rub it on concrete or a sanding belt to bring the ends down, or is it just trash?
Thanks in advance
Josh

Yes the black piece is still on the clamping pad.  However, I have an update.  As I said the gouge was use a little to big.  So I ran the sides on my high speed grinder and it did not change anything but put some sliver stripes down the sides.  That did the trick and it fits and is now ground.  I love that gouge jig!  It makes sharpening a gouge brain less.  Now onward to learn how to do a round nose scraper.....that's been an adventure so far.  Then I'm going for the #51 Stanley spoke shave.  Any advise on either of these would be helpful.

I have a shop smith gouge (I think it's made by Buck), it's about 1 1/16" wide and about 1/2".  It's always been ground in a finger nail shape.  I've tried to fit it into the SVD-185 but it will only go in about an inch or 2.  How do I grind the gouge with the same profile?  Is there something that fits to the SVD-185?  It's my understanding that the SVS-50 will blunt the end of the gouge, is that correct?