Following is a general method for sharpening chisels with Tormek.
SG(#220) -> SG(#1000) -> Leather wheel.
But I want to do it with SJ wheel instead leather wheel.
In this case, how can I remove the burr of a flat side?
Quote from: sharpco on January 14, 2018, 09:12:59 AM
Following is a general method for sharpening chisels with Tormek.
SG(#220) -> SG(#1000) -> Leather wheel.
But I want to do it with SJ wheel instead leather wheel.
In this case, how can I remove the burr of a flat side?
Side of the wheel? (Maybe with the machine off?) :-\
I'm of the belief that flat sides that need to stay flat, should be done on something flat, (if there's a chance it'll change the angle).
(p.s. Haven't tried... just an idea).
Good question.
If you are very careful, you should be able to use the leather honngwheel. To be successful requires care and skill.
I learned another method from Ernie Conover which may work better, especially for those who are unsure of their skill with the leather honing wheel. Leave the chisel in the jig and set the angle with the leather honing wheel. Use the leather honing wheel to polish the bevel
With the chisel still in the jig, remove the jig from the support bar. I keep a small very fine ceramic bench stone with my Tormek. Turn the chisel over and rest the back on the ceramic stone. Touch the middle of the chisel lightly against the ceramic stone and then lower the angle until the chisel rests evenly on the stone. Rub it a few strokes. Then go back and forth between the bevel on the leather wheel with the chisel still in the jig and the chisel flat on the back.
This procedure is only a bit slower, but is very controlled. The ceramic stone should remain flatter than a water stone.
Ken
Quote from: cbwx34 on January 14, 2018, 03:45:22 PM
Quote from: sharpco on January 14, 2018, 09:12:59 AM
Following is a general method for sharpening chisels with Tormek.
SG(#220) -> SG(#1000) -> Leather wheel.
But I want to do it with SJ wheel instead leather wheel.
In this case, how can I remove the burr of a flat side?
Side of the wheel? (Maybe with the machine off?) :-\
I'm of the belief that flat sides that need to stay flat, should be done on something flat, (if there's a chance it'll change the angle).
(p.s. Haven't tried... just an idea).
I can't use the side of the stone because I've drawn the angle on the side of the stone for freehand knife sharpening.
Quote from: Ken S on January 14, 2018, 09:24:24 PM
Good question.
If you are very careful, you should be able to use the leather honngwheel. To be successful requires care and skill.
I learned another method from Ernie Conover which may work better, especially for those who are unsure of their skill with the leather honing wheel. Leave the chisel in the jig and set the angle with the leather honing wheel. Use the leather honing wheel to polish the bevel
With the chisel still in the jig, remove the jig from the support bar. I keep a small very fine ceramic bench stone with my Tormek. Turn the chisel over and rest the back on the ceramic stone. Touch the middle of the chisel lightly against the ceramic stone and then lower the angle until the chisel rests evenly on the stone. Rub it a few strokes. Then go back and forth between the bevel on the leather wheel with the chisel still in the jig and the chisel flat on the back.
This procedure is only a bit slower, but is very controlled. The ceramic stone should remain flatter than a water stone.
Ken
How about using the paper wheel?
SG(#220) > SJ(bevel side only) > flat ceramic/water stone(flat side only) > paper wheel(both side)
Quote from: sharpco on January 14, 2018, 11:11:55 PM
I can't use the side of the stone because I've drawn the angle on the side of the stone for freehand knife sharpening.
Probably just as well... I got to looking at the side of the wheel... it' pretty coarse.
I'd 2nd using a flat stone (over a paper wheel).
I use the side of my SJ. Works well for me.
Quote from: RichColvin on January 15, 2018, 01:53:22 AM
I use the side of my SJ. Works well for me.
Actual use beats my guessing! ;)
At the risk of sounding like me, I would suggest mastering the use of the leather honing wheel for removing the burr on both the bevel and back of a chisel before looking for other options. This would not be a problem for those who decided to use my practice chisels suggestion, the first post in the general Tormek section. I am not sayiny that the leather honinh wheel is the only or best way, or that there is anything wrong with other methods. I am merely stating my belief in mastering the standard method before looking elsewhere. For those who have really mastered the leather honing wheel and are unsatisfied, please keep looking for options.
In my opinion, any procedures beyond the SJ and burr removal are generally overkill. In fact, I think for general woodworking, the SG coarse and fine, plus the leather honing wheel is quite adequate. You posted this in woodcarving, so perhaps you mean delicate carving chisels instead of bench chisels. I am not a carver; sharpening standards for carving chisels may be more demanding than for cabinetmaking.
Paper wheels are designed to be used at high speed to melt the wax of the compound. Especially with thin carving tools, it is easy to overheat the tool. Because of the heat issue, the only power tool I would recommend would be the Tormek.
The side of the wheel became more difficult to use when Tormek upgraded to the new safety switch. Those with the older switch can use a foot switch and have more control placing the back of the chisel against the back of the chisel. I still believe a ceramic stone is the most practical solution.
Ken
Quote from: sharpco on January 14, 2018, 11:11:55 PM
Quote from: cbwx34 on January 14, 2018, 03:45:22 PM
Quote from: sharpco on January 14, 2018, 09:12:59 AM
Following is a general method for sharpening chisels with Tormek.
SG(#220) -> SG(#1000) -> Leather wheel.
But I want to do it with SJ wheel instead leather wheel.
In this case, how can I remove the burr of a flat side?
Side of the wheel? (Maybe with the machine off?) :-\
I'm of the belief that flat sides that need to stay flat, should be done on something flat, (if there's a chance it'll change the angle).
(p.s. Haven't tried... just an idea).
I can't use the side of the stone because I've drawn the angle on the side of the stone for freehand knife sharpening.
You don't mention the machine, but there are two sides to the wheel. Are marks on both of them?
If not, could you stand where the nut on the stone was facing your belly button, and move the chisel from left to right across the top of the stone, until the burr is gone?
Quote from: SharpenADullWitt on January 16, 2018, 11:08:09 PM
You don't mention the machine, but there are two sides to the wheel. Are marks on both of them?
If not, could you stand where the nut on the stone was facing your belly button, and move the chisel from left to right across the top of the stone, until the burr is gone?
No. Marks are on one side. I didn't think I would use the other side. ;)