Since I saw the T2 knife jig I was wondering how well this approach works. :-\
To test it I have prepared a simplified jig shown in the attached pictures. The jig consists of an aluminium L bracket attached to the tool rest. To get the necessary clearance above the USB the bracket is mounted on 3 plastic plates of total thickness 25 mm.
The picture shows setting for a bevel angle of 15°. The angle was set using the Anglemaster.
Because I have not found suitable clip I test it without it, keeping the side of the blade aligned with the bracket.
When the sides of the knife are parallel, the edge is straight and the stone is true than the sharpened bevel has an acceptable quality. If the steel is not too hard some three passes maybe sufficient to get the burr. :)
For blades of a more complex shape my preliminary results are less satisfactory. It is not easy to sharpen consistent bevel along the belly or at the knife tip. It may be caused by the absence of the blade clip. ;)
Jan
Jan,
Your muse has been working overtime. This is very clever. I notice you have switched short machine screws for the larger plastic lock knobs on the sleeves for clearance. Good thought!
Your jig supports my belief that with an innovative mind the Tormek platform is a versatile springboard for many jigs.
Keep up the good work!
Ken
Yes Ken, you are correct. I have mused about the T2 knife jig concept for weeks. When you call on your Muse and she comes to provide you with a creative spirit you have to be ready to sacrifice some time. :)
Jan
Well spoken, aMused one. :)
Ken
I am pleased to confirm that even the simplified jig without a clip works fine. The concept is really very viable. :)
The picture shows quite consistent bevel sharpened on a short blade with Scandi grind which is not an ideal blade for this type of jig. The sharpening was very quick. ;)
The second picture shows a detailed view of the Tormek T2 knife jig.
Jan
Looks nice Jan! Are both hands required for holding the knife or can you you get satisfactory results using only one hand?
Thank you Elden. :) Normally I use the index finger of the other hand secure the blade alignment with the bracket but it would be possible to do it with one hand also. I have observed no tendencies to lift the blade.
Just yesterday I have realised that I strongly prefer to keep knife in the right hand while sharpening both sides of the blade. So I have simply rotated the machine (by 90°only) and continued sharpening the other side while keeping the knife in the right hand. :)
Suitable blade clip would surely simplify the sharpening and require less sharpener's focus on blade alignment. I have to wait for some inspiration. To get necessary clearance for blade and hand movement I have replaced both USB knobs with short M6 screws and also dismounted the honing wheel. ;)
Jan
Nick Agar, one of the Tormek Friends (videos on the main website) correctly notes the importance of paying attention to how hands are used in working. Knife sharpening seems an operation where one hand can do the "heavy lifting" when the second helps guide things.
Part of the simplicity I appreciate about the Tormek is the use of common metric threading. Many of the screws use M6 (6mm) threads. Even in non metric land where I live, I can go to a hardware store and buy replacement parts. I have replaced some of the round plastic jig locking screws with other, more hand friendly (for older hands) and a hex bolt for more clearance. Standard issue Tormek parts do the job almost all of the time, however, it is nice to have easy access to modifying parts on occasion.
Good thinking, Jan.
Ken
Very nice Jan. Following this nice Idea. Hope Tormek will produce a Jig inspired from your idea.
Thanks Wolfy! In fact I was inspired by Tormek jig and not vice versa. ;) Nevertheless our interest in the T2 knife jig might encourage the company to consider this type of jig for all machines.
The T2 knife jig would be good for knives maintenance also. Two or three passes plus honing may be sufficient when applied regularly. :)
It may be also good for knives which blades tapper towards the edge and whose mounting in the standard knife jig is difficult because the blade wobbles. ;)
Jan
I picked up a 1 foot long x 1 inch diameter aluminum bar on Ebay for about $5.00. I chopped a couple of about 3" chunks off of it and with a little machining, plus a couple of bolts, wing-nuts, washers, a hunk of plastic and some pieces of t-track turned it into this contraption that I stuck on a belt grinder. I added the t-track just to make it fully adjustable. It works great without any need for a clip to assist in holding the blade.
It would need a little redesign for use on a Tormek, but it's the same sort of idea of a simple adjustable knife blade rest.
Like Herman and Jan's versions, this is just another variation of a tool rest to aid in blade sharpening.
I was intrigued when I saw the T2 knife rest because I've wondered for a long time why Tormek didn't offer something similar. It solves all sorts of problems such as being able to sharpen almost any length blade, as well as wide and very small blades.
I wonder if we may see something similar for the T8 size Tormeks in the future.
(http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y441/grepper00/contraption2_zps5nj6v9jd.jpg)
That is nice Mark. Great way to get a convex grind. Can the patten be moved to back the grinding area?
Clever solution, Grepper, I like it! :) The two T tracks and the joint of the Al bars give your knife blade support enormous adjustability.
Have you noticed some tendency to pull the blade down when using an unsupported segment of the belt?
Jan
Ditto that, Grepper!
I especially like Elden's idea of using it for convex edges.
Great work.
Ken
Jan
just a thought about your jig.
Why not turn the SVD-110 vertically with added 30mm spacer for the handle clearance?
Wolfy, you may be correct, I have not tested all possible arrangements. It also depends on the desired bevel angle. It is easier to get the necessary handle clearance for 15° than for 20° bevel angle. ;)
I have chosen the horizontal position because it provided larger handle clearance for quite compact solution i.e. the USB was not too far from the stone. :)
Jan
I was thinking of vertical with a block of 30mm width and 50mm deep, profiled according to the wheel/ knife sharpening angle etc... that will move the USB out.
I do consider to try to cut a SVD-110 to 30mm and produce it that way.
I'm curious about your solution, it can work well but it needs to solve a few details. Your idea to profile the spacer block according to the wheel is correct.
Consider how you will set the bevel angle also. Using the Anglemaster I set the angle of the bracket base (shown in red in the attached picture). For a 15° bevel angle I set the angle setter at 75° for the bracket base because 15° = 90° - 75°. ;)
If you direct the red line towards the stone axis you will theoretically sharpen an infinitely sharp edge with a 0° bevel angle! 8)
Good luck and keep us posted! :)
Jan
I looked at it again and came with same conclusion as I had 1/2 year ago.
For practical usage a pivot point should be established at...........
Same as on the T2. A jig that is needed could be made of round profile bent and used as USB in it's original base on the machine. I can also think of other ideas to bring the pivot point to the right place. Tormek has the resources to built it if they would like to invest in this. I left the idea long ago.
For me the T2 is not a good alternative yet, as the magnet problem is not solved. Placing a magnet near the knife resulting in magnetised knife with lots of metal dust on it, is wrong in a food environment.