Jeff, I have been using the system for a while now and have some questions concerning mounting the tools for sharpening. I measure the angle with the Angle Master and as expected they are 25d. I mark the bevel with a felt pen, set the angle with the Angle Master and then sharpen for a rotation or tow to see where the sharpening will occur. I have yet to have it match the setting. Usually I have to raise it a bit to get a more uniform removal of the felt pen marking. Anything wrong with this approach or what MAY I be doing wrong during the setup. Another question bout the Angle Master. The surface that lays against the blade is slightly convex. Do I place the Angle Master against the stone and then adjust the height until the blade touches Angle Master or do I actually place the Angle Master on the back to the blade?
The other problem (?) I am having is setting the blades in the jig so the edge of the blade is sharpened all across the edge. I sometimes have to skew the blade to get it uniform. For example if I am sharpening a plane blade and I push against the right stops, one of the left or right edges aren't sharpened (using a felt pen to indicate the sharpening pattern). Should I not be worrying about this and sharpen until the bevel is uniform all across the edge?
All these questions aside; am I making too much ado about nothing? I get them sharp but not the way "the instructions indicate".
Thanks for the new video layout. I was able to download them nd I look at them EVERY time begin a session. Thanks
Quote from: Byron on November 08, 2005, 03:41:03 PM
Jeff, I have been using the system for a while now and have some questions concerning mounting the tools for sharpening. I measure the angle with the Angle Master and as expected they are 25d. I mark the bevel with a felt pen, set the angle with the Angle Master and then sharpen for a rotation or tow to see where the sharpening will occur. I have yet to have it match the setting. Usually I have to raise it a bit to get a more uniform removal of the felt pen marking. Anything wrong with this approach or what MAY I be doing wrong during the setup.
The chance of having a setting from the AngleMaster perfectly match the colored bevel of a tool is very slim. Either approach will work, but trying to do both might drive you to distraction. A misalignment of less than a degree would make for incomplete removal of the marking. Either match the existing bevel or use the AngleMaster, but I would not recommend trying to do both at the same time.
QuoteAnother question bout the Angle Master. The surface that lays against the blade is slightly convex. Do I place the Angle Master against the stone and then adjust the height until the blade touches Angle Master or do I actually place the Angle Master on the back to the blade?
The bottom point of the AngleMaster must be in contact with the grindstone for the angle measurement to be accurate. Place the AngleMaster on the grindstone, then rotate the grindstone until the angle guide is very close to the tool to be sharpened, then adjust the Universal Tool Support up or down until the back of the tool closely matches the angle guide. Again, the bottom point of the angle guide has to be on the stone for the setting to be accurate.
QuoteThe other problem (?) I am having is setting the blades in the jig so the edge of the blade is sharpened all across the edge. I sometimes have to skew the blade to get it uniform. For example if I am sharpening a plane blade and I push against the right stops, one of the left or right edges aren't sharpened (using a felt pen to indicate the sharpening pattern). Should I not be worrying about this and sharpen until the bevel is uniform all across the edge?
The answer to your last question is yes -- I think. ;D You are trying to make this harder than it is. Removing all of the felt tip markings in a pass or two is unrealistic, particularly if the angle is set using the AngleMaster. Get your setting close, then grind until you have a new, single facet bevel and uniform wire edge on the back of the tool, then refine the grind, then hone.
I'm sure I'm not the first person to do this, but I only used the angle jig once. Instead, I have two simple little "jigs" to set the angle.
First is a small piece of wood screwed on to the bench where I keep the Tormek, maybe a couple of inches from the edge. I hold the Tormek sharpening jig firmly against the edge of the bench and push the chisel or plane blade until it touches the small piece of wood. So the blade is protruding from the sharpening jig the exact same amount each time I use it.
Then I used the angle jig once, and cut a small piece of plywood so it just fit between the metal bar and the wheel. That way, I can get the bar and the wheel the exact same distance apart every time.
With those two measurements taken care of, the grinding angle is the same each time. And of course you can make a plywood piece for each angle you want to replicate.
This is much faster than using the angle jig and the felt pen. And you can do the same thing with turning tools, etc.
Again, I'm sure I'm not the first or the 1,000th person to do this.
msrdnr,
Those are a couple of good tips, thanks!!!
I'm also thinking about a small block, cut like a bench hook, to throw in my "traveling" box for the 2" projection.
Rich