I am submitting this for forum evaluation as a start for our beginner advice sticky message. I welcome constructive criticism, suggested additions, deletions, or changes. I also welcome other posts.
My suggestion would be to have this and other submitted posts available for forum criticism. Once we feel comfortable with a reasonably "final" version (which can still be easily changed if necessary) I would give Jeff full moderator prerogative to edit, add or delete.
Please be part of the process.
Ken
Using a Tormek is like driving a stick shift car. There is a bit of a learning curve, one which thousands of users have completed successfully. Here is our advice to develop your "clutch foot".
Spend some time becoming very familiar with the videos on the tormek.com and sharptoolsusa.com websites. You may have found them before even purchasing your Tormek. Read your Tormek handbook; do not be afraid to make it your own by highlighting and flagging. Keep it nearby.
Every Tormek user should have a Sharpie marker. The Sharpie marker, as shown in the videos and handbook, allows the user to quickly verify grinding angles. It is an essential tool.
The first tool you should learn to sharpen is a chisel. Regardless of what your intended use for your Tormek, if you can sharpen a chisel proficiently and fluently, you can learn other tools. A chisel is the simplest edge to grind. It is ground square, not angled. The bevel angle of 25 to 30 degrees is an easy range to duplicate. Unlike most knives, only one bevel is ground. The full range of the Tormek is used in sharpening a chisel, initial grinding with the stone graded coarse; finer grinding with the stone graded fine; and finally, stropped with the leather honing wheel.
An excellent first chisel is the Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel. Why an Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel? During various posts on this forum, 3/4" has emerged as the most practical width chisel for learning how to use the Tormek. The Blue Chip chisel has enough blade length to be a very usable first learning tool. The steel is good carbon steel. The sides are also ground square to the back of the blade with no rounding over (which would interfere with preparing the back for sharpening). Irwin acquired Joseph Marples, the fine company which had made these good chisels for a very long time. And, on a very practical level, these chisels are very reasonably priced. At this writing they are available on Amazon for $8.51. A set of four (1/4 to 1" is also available for about $25 for those who would like several practice chisels. They are also working standard tools in many shops.
Do not just sharpen this chisel once before moving on. Blunt the edge with a hammer or file several times and restore the edge until you become proficient. During these practice sessions you will learn a lot about machine. Learn to listen to the sound of the grinding. Learn to become sensitive to the feel of the grinding. Learn to be consistent in setting up your machine. Learn what a truly sharp edge is, and what it can do.
Even if you do not intend to do woodworking, go through these exercises with your chisel. And, keep the chisel nearby. Should a day come when your sharpening is going badly, you can always return to sharpening your chisel. This will simplify your troubleshooting. If you can match your initial sharpening, your basic machine and wheel are functioning properly. If not, this exercise will point you in the correct direction to solve the problem.
Getting a mindset for the grinding wheel:
All too often, new users approach the grinding wheel with a sense of reverence and feel a need to preserve it. While proper use is important, it should be remembered that the grinding wheel is designed to be worn away during use. Look at the wheel as you would a set of good tires or brake linings. Good care extends their useful life, however, they are designed to be worn out.
The Tormek wheel is designed to be used as either a coarse wheel or a finer wheel, depending on how the grading stone is used. The wheel actually has a third grading when freshly dressed with the TT-50 diamond dresser (more coarse). Do not try to squeeze a bit more life out of your wheel or a bit of time off the sharpening operation by skipping the grading operation. Proper use of the grader is well covered in the videos and handbook. Follow these instructions!
Be patient and persevere. Your Tormek skills will quickly develop. Please feel free to participate in the forum. We welcome you.
Like it. To the point, not so long to go beyond most people's zone out point. Maybe mention that there will be other such instruction topics for easy browsing (to come).
Anyone think it might be a good idea to have the first sticky be called something like:
GSM: Stage
For Getting Started Manual staging area.
If there is not some way to organize ideas up for review, if that is the process, they could easily slip beneath the waves into the abyss of deep history.
Thanks for the comments, Elden and Mark. I like the Getting Started Manual idea.
Ken
Ken, you may be interested in:
Lesson 4: Sharing, Collaborating and Publishing a Document
A wonderful feature of Google Docs is the ability to share your work with others. You have many options to do this. You can give access to a document where the viewers are only able to read the document and not make any changes. You can also give access to a document where people can collaborate with you by making changes. You will be able to see the changes that each person has made to your document. In this lesson you will learn how to share your document with others and publish the final version.
http://edutech.msu.edu/online/googledocs/googledocs.html
Good thought, Mark. However, I think we can do all that in house. My thought would be to start with a submitted document (or documents) and have forum members post thoughts, other suggestions, changes, etc. With things like copy/paste and bold/italics, it would be easy to note suggested changes, additions or deletions.
Once we arrive at a document we are happy with, Jeff, as moderator, could copy paste it to the newly created sticky.
Should suggested changes pop up at a later date, using the same cut/copy/paste method would not be a major project for the moderator.
I'm for keeping the whole thing as simple and direct as possible.
Ken
Thanks, Jeff;
Ken
I'm confused....what have we achieved here? Are we now proposing to post a straw man, everyone edit here on the forum, finalise and then delete the trail that led to it but leave the "published" version live?
It's now sticky...
We can change the title, if you like, and if you want to delete or modify a post, either the original poster or I can do it...just let me know.
Right...got that....but....we'll still wind up with one massively long post won't we? Difficult to search, not categorised into chapters etc. am I missing something?
If you want one sticky for each type of sharpening, just start the thread and I'll sticky it. The stickies will always appear at the top of the forum.
Quote from: Ken S on March 11, 2013, 11:40:18 PM
Proposed changes (largely to globalise the language) in blue
Using a Tormek is like driving a manual gearbox stick shift car. There is a bit of a learning curve, one which thousands of users have completed successfully. Here is our advice to develop your "clutch foot".
Spend some time becoming very familiar with the videos on the tormek.com and sharptoolsusa.com websites. You may have found them before even purchasing your Tormek. Read your Tormek handbook; do not be afraid to make it your own by highlighting and flagging. Keep it nearby.
Every Tormek user should have a permanent or Sharpie marker. The Sharpie marker, as shown in the videos and handbook, allows the user to quickly verify grinding angles. It is an essential tool.
The first tool you should learn to sharpen is a chisel. Regardless of what your intended use for your Tormek, if you can sharpen a chisel proficiently and fluently, you can learn other tools. A chisel is the simplest edge to grind. It is ground square, not angled. The bevel angle of 25 to 30 degrees is an easy range to duplicate. Unlike most knives, only one bevel is ground. The full range of the Tormek is used in sharpening a chisel, initial grinding with the stone graded coarse; finer grinding with the stone graded fine; and finally, stropped with the leather honing wheel.
An excellent first chisel is the Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel. Why an Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel? During various posts on this forum, 3/4" has emerged as the most practical width chisel for learning how to use the Tormek. The Blue Chip chisel has enough blade length to be a very usable first learning tool. The steel is good carbon steel. The sides are also ground square to the back of the blade with no rounding over (which would interfere with preparing the back for sharpening). Irwin acquired Joseph Marples, the fine company which had made these good chisels for a very long time. And, on a very practical level, these chisels are very reasonably priced. At this writing they are available on Amazon for $8.51. A set of four (1/4 to 1" is also available for about $25 for those who would like several practice chisels. They are also working standard tools in many shops. An excellent choice is a 3/4" bog standard bench chisel
Do not just sharpen this chisel once before moving on. Blunt the edge with a hammer or file several times and restore the edge until you become proficient. During these practice sessions you will learn a lot about machine. Learn to listen to the sound of the grinding. Learn to become sensitive to the feel of the grinding. Learn to be consistent in setting up your machine. Learn what a truly sharp edge is, and what it can do.
Even if you do not intend to do woodworking, go through these exercises with your chisel. And, keep the chisel nearby. Should a day come when your sharpening is going badly, you can always return to sharpening your chisel. This will simplify your troubleshooting. If you can match your initial sharpening, your basic machine and wheel are functioning properly. If not, this exercise will point you in the correct direction to solve the problem.
Getting a mindset for the grinding wheel:
All too often, new users approach the grinding wheel with a sense of reverence and feel a need to preserve it. While proper use is important, it should be remembered that the grinding wheel is designed to be worn away during use. Look at the wheel as you would a set of good tires or brake linings. Good care extends their useful life, however, they are designed to be worn out.
The Tormek wheel is designed to be used as either a coarse wheel or a finer wheel, depending on how the grading stone is used. The wheel actually has a third grading when freshly dressed with the TT-50 diamond dresser (more coarse). Do not try to squeeze a bit more life out of your wheel or a bit of time off the sharpening operation by skipping the grading operation. Proper use of the grader is well covered in the videos and handbook. Follow these instructions!
Be patient and persevere. Your Tormek skills will quickly develop. Please feel free to participate in the forum. We welcome you.
Quote from: Rob on March 12, 2013, 05:59:19 PM
Quote from: Ken S on March 11, 2013, 11:40:18 PM
Proposed changes (largely to globalise the language) in blue
Using a Tormek is like driving a manual gearbox stick shift car. There is a bit of a learning curve, one which thousands of users have completed successfully. Here is our advice to develop your "clutch foot".
Spend some time becoming very familiar with the videos on the tormek.com and sharptoolsusa.com websites. You may have found them before even purchasing your Tormek. Read your Tormek handbook; do not be afraid to make it your own by highlighting and flagging. Keep it nearby.
Every Tormek user should have a permanent or Sharpie marker. The Sharpie marker, as shown in the videos and handbook, allows the user to quickly verify grinding angles. It is an essential tool.
The first tool you should learn to sharpen is a chisel. Regardless of what your intended use for your Tormek, if you can sharpen a chisel proficiently and fluently, you can learn other tools. A chisel is the simplest edge to grind. It is ground square, not angled. The bevel angle of 25 to 30 degrees is an easy range to duplicate. Unlike most knives, only one bevel is ground. The full range of the Tormek is used in sharpening a chisel, initial grinding with the stone graded coarse; finer grinding with the stone graded fine; and finally, stropped with the leather honing wheel.
An excellent first chisel is the Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel. Why an Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel? During various posts on this forum, 3/4" has emerged as the most practical width chisel for learning how to use the Tormek. The Blue Chip chisel has enough blade length to be a very usable first learning tool. The steel is good carbon steel. The sides are also ground square to the back of the blade with no rounding over (which would interfere with preparing the back for sharpening). Irwin acquired Joseph Marples, the fine company which had made these good chisels for a very long time. And, on a very practical level, these chisels are very reasonably priced. At this writing they are available on Amazon for $8.51. A set of four (1/4 to 1" is also available for about $25 for those who would like several practice chisels. They are also working standard tools in many shops. An excellent choice is a 3/4" bog standard bench chisel
Do not just sharpen this chisel once before moving on. Blunt the edge with a hammer or file several times and restore the edge until you become proficient. During these practice sessions you will learn a lot about machine. Learn to listen to the sound of the grinding. Learn to become sensitive to the feel of the grinding. Learn to be consistent in setting up your machine. Learn what a truly sharp edge is, and what it can do. Incidentally, here are the tests for sharpness:
Does the edge catch on your fingernail?
Will it shave calloused skin? (dangerous test if you're not fairly confident in your edge and your dexterity)
Does it cut standard #20 printer paper without leaving a ragged edge?
Can you change direction of the cut in the paper whilst cutting?
Can it cut across the end grain of a piece of open-grained soft wood without tearing? (balsa and fir are best test)
Will it easily shave the hair off your arm? (no spit, no pressing, just glide)
Even if you do not intend to do woodworking, go through these exercises with your chisel. And, keep the chisel nearby. Should a day come when your sharpening is going badly, you can always return to sharpening your chisel. This will simplify your troubleshooting. If you can match your initial sharpening, your basic machine and wheel are functioning properly. If not, this exercise will point you in the correct direction to solve the problem.
Getting a mindset for the grinding wheel:
All too often, new users approach the grinding wheel with a sense of reverence and feel a need to preserve it. While proper use is important, it should be remembered that the grinding wheel is designed to be worn away during use. Look at the wheel as you would a set of good tires or brake linings. Good care extends their useful life, however, they are designed to be worn out.
The Tormek wheel is designed to be used as either a coarse wheel or a finer wheel, depending on how the grading stone is used. The wheel actually has a third grading when freshly dressed with the TT-50 diamond dresser (more coarse). Do not try to squeeze a bit more life out of your wheel or a bit of time off the sharpening operation by skipping the grading operation. Proper use of the grader is well covered in the videos and handbook. Follow these instructions!
Be patient and persevere. Your Tormek skills will quickly develop. Please feel free to participate in the forum. We welcome you.
Definition of BOG
: wet spongy ground; especially : a poorly drained usually acid area rich in accumulated plant material, frequently surrounding a body of open water, and having a characteristic flora (as of sedges, heaths, and sphagnum)
Sorry Rob, I am not finding this one. What is a "bog standard bench chisel"?
OK lose the word bog....it must be an English term....or replace with a "regular bench chisel"
I have no problem with including other terms (eg. manual gearbox). Why not use both? "Permanent marker" is fine for the brand name Sharpie.
I do have a problem with omitting the chisel information. The reason for my specific recommendation is to steer beginners away from chisels which have very short blades; over polished chisels where the intersection of the back and sides is rounded; and poorly manufactured chisels. I chose the Irwin successor to Marples because I believe it should be available in most areas (through Amazon, if not locally) and is not expensive.
I would suggest narrowing the choice of sharpness tests to one or two at most. My suggestion would be the plastic pen test and the paper test Jeff demonstrates on the videos.
I would like to see the version which remains in the sticky as concise and cleaned up as possible. No need to put my name with it.
Ken
Agreed, definitely clear all our suggestions, chatter out.
Ken
will you now post the edited version you like then please (dont forget we cant edit your post directly. only propose changes that you have to implement)
Rob (and forum), below is posted a rewrite including some of the more international terms and a slight modification of my chisel recommendation. I included only the paper sharpness demonstrated by Jeff on the videos for simplicity. It was an easy copy, paste, edit and maybe took five minutes to complete the changes. As such, it can be readily changed again if need be.
I hope more members will comment (you, too, Jeff).
Ken
Using a Tormek is like driving a manual gearbox ("stick shift" for us on this side of the pond) car. There is a bit of a learning curve, one which thousands of users have completed successfully. Here is our advice to develop your "clutch foot".
Spend some time becoming very familiar with the videos on the tormek.com abd sharptoolsusa.com websites. You may have found them before even purchasing your Tormek. Read your Tormek handbook; do not be afraid to make it your own by highlighting and flagging. Keep it nearby.
Every Tormek user should have a permanent marker. The permanent marker, as shown in the videos and handbook, allows the user to quickly verify grinding angles. It is an essential tool.
The first tool you should learn to sharpen is a chisel. Regardless of what your intended use for your Tormek, if you can sharpen a chisel proficiently and fluently, you can learn other tools. A chisel is the simplest edge to grind. It is ground square, not angled. The bevel angle of 25 to 30 degrees is an easy range to duplicate. Unlike most knives, only one bevel is ground. The full range of the Tormek is used in sharpening a chisel, initial grinding with the stone graded coarse; finer grinding with the stone graded fine; and finally, stropped with the leather honing wheel.
An excellent first chisel is the Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel. Why an Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel? During various posts on this forum, 3/4" has emerged as the most practical width chisel for learning how to use the Tormek. The Blue Chip chisel has enough blade length to be a very usable first learning tool. The steel is good carbon steel. The sides are also ground square to the back of the blade with no rounding over (which would interfere with preparing the back for sharpening). Irwin acquired Joseph Marples, the fine company which had made these good chisels for a very long time. And, on a very practical level, these chisels are very reasonably priced. At this writing they are available on Amazon for $8.51. A set of four (1/4 to 1" is also available for about $25 for those who would like several practice chisels. They are also working standard tools in many shops. Your choice of chisel brand is completely up to you. Please at least consider the Blue Chip as a starting reference guide.
Do not just sharpen this chisel once before moving on. Blunt the edge with a hammer or file several times and restore the edge until you become proficient. During these practice sessions you will learn a lot about machine. Learn to listen to the sound of the grinding. Learn to become sensitive to the feel of the grinding. Learn to be consistent in setting up your machine. Learn what a truly sharp edge is, and what it can do. There are several methods of testing for sharpness. Jeff's paper method (as shown on the sharptoolsusa.com videos is a good starting place.
Even if you do not intend to do woodworking, go through these exercises with your chisel. And, keep the chisel nearby. Eventually a day come when your sharpening is going badly. On that day, you can return to sharpening your chisel. This will simplify your troubleshooting. If you can match your initial sharpening, your basic machine and wheel are functioning properly. If not, this exercise will point you in the correct direction to solve the problem.
Getting a mindset for the grinding wheel:
All too often, new users approach the grinding wheel with a sense of reverence and feel a need to preserve it. While proper use is important, it should be remembered that the grinding wheel is designed to be worn away during use. Look at the wheel as you would a set of good tires or brake linings. Good care extends their useful life, however, they are designed to be worn out.
The Tormek wheel is designed to be used as either a coarse wheel or a finer wheel, depending on how the grading stone is used. The wheel actually has a third grading when freshly dressed with the TT-50 diamond dresser (more coarse). Do not try to squeeze a bit more life out of your wheel or a bit of time off the sharpening operation by skipping the grading operation. Proper use of the grader is well covered in the videos and handbook. Follow these instructions!
Be patient and persevere. Your Tormek skills will quickly develop. Please feel free to participate in the forum. We welcome you.
I might suggest that once we arrive with a "final" version, that it be copy pasted onto the sticky and the full development post become a separate non sticky post. That would allow anyone interested to track the development and make suggestions (which would update the post and place it on page one).
Ken
Jeff,
No further comments seem to be forthcoming. Would this be a good time to strip away all the comments and post the last version?
Keep in mind that we can alter the text should the need arise.
Ken
ps a monor typo: I notice in the description of the chisels, an incomplete set of parentheses, before but not after the inch sizes of the chisels. Would you please correct that. Thanks.
Ken, you should be able to modify your own posts.
No need, Herman. I trust the forum moderator, and I had planned to text to be from the forum (anonymous).
Ken
I'll get on this later today or tomorrow.
Jeff, I think it would be good to add a sentence or two about oiling the leather honing wheel (and accessory discs). It could use discretely larger font size and perhaps bold. It should include a recommended amount and type of oil and stress ONCE. I trust your judgement.
Ken
Quote from: grepper on March 12, 2013, 12:19:42 AM
Anyone think it might be a good idea to have the first sticky be called something like:
GSM: Stage
For Getting Started Manual staging area.
If there is not some way to organize ideas up for review, if that is the process, they could easily slip beneath the waves into the abyss of deep history.
I would forego the acronym and call it the "Getting Started With Your Tormek" or "The Getting Started Manual".
A minor protocol thought: maybe the welcome message should appear before this post.
Ken
Not sure what's going on here with this thread.
Jeff, are you still planning on cleaning this up and deleting the unwanted messages?
Ken, did you want to go back and make those edits?
I know we wanted to start with chisel sharpening, but didn't we want to add knife sharpening? And machine maintenance?
Herman. I pulled back on this whole idea because it was clear there was no real will to actually doing it. I hate to sound like a negative vibe merchant but I pushed this whole idea till I was blue in the face. Everyone was saying yes let's do it, then it just stalled.....clearly no one really wants to actually get organised
To do it properly we need to circulate shared documents. I believe it is unreasonable to expect Jeff Farris to pick up a heap of editing every night he gets in....the poor bloke would have no life! So if its to work we need to post finished text after we've all poured over it and agreed the content.
But as I say, having solutions to the problems of doing this was never the problem, getting people motivated was! I've been down that somewhat lonely road already. I'm happy to contribute if someone else picks up the mantle but I'm not doing the selling again.....life's too short!
Doing a Wiki would be ideal, but this thread is the best we can do under current circumstances.
What's wrong with using the version I submitted in reply # 18?
I don't have any ego issue here. I just think we should have a finished (and much simpler to read) version. I would suggest placing it after the welcome message.
Jeff, is there a problem completing this?
We can add a portion about sharpening knives when it is ready. As I don't sharpen many knives, I would prefer to have someone else do that part of the writing.
Ken
Quote from: Ken S on May 05, 2013, 08:11:48 PM
What's wrong with using the version I submitted in reply # 18?
Nothing! I thought you wanted some minor changes made to it. I was just suggesting that you do that, and then perhaps we can get Jeff to delete the rest of the messages in that thread.
We can make minor changes later if needed. I believe Klauswitz said something like "the enemy of a good plan is the dream of a perfect plan." I think we have good enough. Let's do it.
Ken
perfect...when my software company used to have management meetings where all the global country managers met....the different National personalities were fascinating. The Yanks were always about "lets just get going"....it was all John Wayne style...sort of saddle up and we'll knock over the problems as we find them.
The Brits, whilst secretly admiring that risk taking attitiude, simply HAD to spend more time thinking it through cos they didnt want to look stupid if they fell at the first fence.
After the teams strormed and normed for a while...we always found that what worked in actual business was a combination of both approaches. Balls out risk taking...with a load of analysis and consideration backing it up...it was fascinating.
Another time I'll tell you how the French and the Japanese got on!! Now that was funny.
The point is (by the way)......I agree with Ken...lets just go and we can edit after if we find the threads dont work...still wish we had a wiki mind....way better approach...would avoid all this
Wiki, is that like a hickey? To an old hick from the sticks, this jargon leaves me standing, holding the bag.
A wiki is a web site that can be edited by the registered users. All edits are stored so if someone buggers it up you can always revert to a former version.
Quote from: Rob on May 06, 2013, 02:41:45 PM
perfect...when my software company used to have management meetings where all the global country managers met....the different National personalities were fascinating. The Yanks were always about "lets just get going"....it was all John Wayne style...sort of saddle up and we'll knock over the problems as we find them.
The Brits, whilst secretly admiring that risk taking attitiude, simply HAD to spend more time thinking it through cos they didnt want to look stupid if they fell at the first fence.
There are a lot of Yanks over here, Rob, who are like those Brits in this regard. Especially in academia. The last thing they want to do is make a decision about something because ... heaven forbid ... it may not be the optimum decision. And, everybody may not yet have had a chance to weigh in with their opinion! We even have meetings where it's announced at the beginning that no decisions will be made at the meeting!!
The fact is, most of the decisions we have to make involve solutions to problems where an optimum solution doesn't exist. We just have to get on with it and be flexible enough to adapt to changes when necessary.
That sounds suspiciously like here Herman :-)
I rather like the John Wayne approach
The last post I see is 4 May 2013. As a beginner, I hope this project continues. In addition to the practicalities, I appreciate the wisdom of experience. For example, the paragraph about a good chisel to start with. Believe it, I went to my local hardware and there was the Irwin chisel with the commercial blurb making the link with the Marple chisels. Thanks to this post I was informed of this background and it enriched my experience. I even found a Sharpie at the trade desk. All this in the SW of Western Australia. I like the Tormek forum because of its international breadth.
Hi Clean
Well that's really nice to know...thanks for that. To be perfectly honest, the project to garner all the wisdom in a single thread has been put on hold for the time being because we really need a wiki. The forum's functionality is incapable of supporting this without intervention and I just don't think the will is there to put in the effort to support that software led management permission.
However, that needn't put you off, after all we've all benefitted from the forum also and that was without the "go fast for new entrants manual".
The trick is to use it's "old" functionality ie just post questions and use the search functions :-)
Good thoughts, Cleancut. Yes, this forum definitely benefits from being international.
I'm glad you found the chisel part useful. I still believe a chisel is the ideal tool to learn many of the basics of the Tormek and sharpening. It is a simple and straightforward tool. The benefits go well beyond the initial learning process. Keep it handy. Eventually we all have some bad sharpening days. When you encounter one of those days, revert back to sharpening your chisel. If you can sharpen your chisel "to specs", you know your Tormek is functioning properly. If not, reexamine your settings (or the operator :).
As the original poster of this thread, I never imagined this to be all encompassing. I just wanted a concise "quick start guide" to get new users up and running without getting bogged down in the typical problems. Something to get us past the initial discouraging difficulties. The tormek is a well designed machine, but it does have a learning curve. I think it should be short and to the point. The wiki idea was added by other members. Several posts back, Jeff, the moderator, was going to strip it down and make it like the welcome message. (Jeff, my suggestion would be to place directly after the welcome message.)
I do Internet searching on an almost daily basis, and have frequently used the search function on this forum. Frankly, I haven't had much luck with forum searches. It's frustrating. My advice to new members is don't be shy. Post your questions. We all have had those questions at some point. This is not an exclusive group where we have to be smart all the time. Ask away. Chances are we will all deepen our knowledge from your questions.
Ken
Beginner here! Thank you for that initial post Ken! I only wish that I had read it before today. I received my T-7 yesterday and spent my free time reading the manual and watching videos. I then set up my machine and chose a "throw-away" knife to start on today after work. I wish I had started on a 3/4" chisel, but that will happen tomorrow.
Here are some things that are a bit unclear in the start up instructions:
How much light machine oil needs should be applied to the honing wheel initially?
How much honing compound do you use initially?
How often to you reapply honing compound and how much?
Do you ever need to reapply light machine oil?
I realize that these are very vague questions and there is no pre-measured amount (i.e. a tablespoon), but any guidance is greatly appreciated.
Scott
Again thanks for that post and I look forward to many years with my T-7.
I'm not sure how to tell you how much to apply. But applying the oil is one-time treatment that should not be repeated.
I would say add enough oil to evenly discolor the entire surface.
Eventually you'll get a feel for how much compound to apply. If you apply too much it'll just come off on the edges of your tools.
Thanks, Scott, for the kind comment.
As I understand it, the purpose of the oil is to let the leather something cheaper than the honing compound. I don't know how much of an exact science this is. I started with considerably less mineral oil with my second Tormek than I used with my first. I add compound as it seems necessary. You will soon develop a feel for it.
Good luck, and keep us posted.
Ken
Quote from: Rob on March 12, 2013, 06:43:46 PM
OK lose the word bog....it must be an English term....or replace with a "regular bench chisel"
Had to laugh when I read this! Yes, it's an English term - North of England particularly. It's used to mean 'common' or 'regular' - hence it's usually used in conjunction with 'standard'.
It's not uncommon to hear 'dead boggo' either...
Anything else I can help with?
We will have to refer this to our Rob, our Resident Detective Chief Inspector of the Yorkshire Vocabulary Constabulary......... :)
Ken
I hope this question is okay to ask?
My Christmas gift from my son is a Tormek.
Problem is I can't seem to find a company that bundles the Anniversary Model with,
HTK 705 Handtool kit, TNT 78 Woodturner Kit, SVH 320 Planer Blade Jig and SVM 100 Small Knife jig.
Any help will be appreciated.
Hope to place an order on Monday.
Thank You Bernard.
I would suggest that you go to www.advmachinery.com and use the information there to put together a list of what you want to purchase.
Then send an email to Wolfgang and ask what he can do for you for a package deal:
wolfgang@advmachinery.com
Could someone answer this question.
blades can be sharpened haircut on the Tormek ?
thanks
Quote from: Ken S on March 11, 2013, 11:40:18 PM
I am submitting this for forum evaluation as a start for our beginner advice sticky message. I welcome constructive criticism, suggested additions, deletions, or changes. I also welcome other posts.
My suggestion would be to have this and other submitted posts available for forum criticism. Once we feel comfortable with a reasonably "final" version (which can still be easily changed if necessary) I would give Jeff full moderator prerogative to edit, add or delete.
Please be part of the process.
Ken
Using a Tormek is like driving a stick shift car. There is a bit of a learning curve, one which thousands of users have completed successfully. Here is our advice to develop your "clutch foot".
Spend some time becoming very familiar with the videos on the tormek.com abd sharptoolsusa.com websites. You may have found them before even purchasing your Tormek. Read your Tormek handbook; do not be afraid to make it your own by highlighting and flagging. Keep it nearby.
Every Tormek user should have a Sharpie marker. The Sharpie marker, as shown in the videos and handbook, allows the user to quickly verify grinding angles. It is an essential tool.
The first tool you should learn to sharpen is a chisel. Regardless of what your intended use for your Tormek, if you can sharpen a chisel proficiently and fluently, you can learn other tools. A chisel is the simplest edge to grind. It is ground square, not angled. The bevel angle of 25 to 30 degrees is an easy range to duplicate. Unlike most knives, only one bevel is ground. The full range of the Tormek is used in sharpening a chisel, initial grinding with the stone graded coarse; finer grinding with the stone graded fine; and finally, stropped with the leather honing wheel.
An excellent first chisel is the Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel. Why an Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel? During various posts on this forum, 3/4" has emerged as the most practical width chisel for learning how to use the Tormek. The Blue Chip chisel has enough blade length to be a very usable first learning tool. The steel is good carbon steel. The sides are also ground square to the back of the blade with no rounding over (which would interfere with preparing the back for sharpening). Irwin acquired Joseph Marples, the fine company which had made these good chisels for a very long time. And, on a very practical level, these chisels are very reasonably priced. At this writing they are available on Amazon for $8.51. A set of four (1/4 to 1" is also available for about $25 for those who would like several practice chisels. They are also working standard tools in many shops.
Do not just sharpen this chisel once before moving on. Blunt the edge with a hammer or file several times and restore the edge until you become proficient. During these practice sessions you will learn a lot about machine. Learn to listen to the sound of the grinding. Learn to become sensitive to the feel of the grinding. Learn to be consistent in setting up your machine. Learn what a truly sharp edge is, and what it can do.
Even if you do not intend to do woodworking, go through these exercises with your chisel. And, keep the chisel nearby. Should a day come when your sharpening is going badly, you can always return to sharpening your chisel. This will simplify your troubleshooting. If you can match your initial sharpening, your basic machine and wheel are functioning properly. If not, this exercise will point you in the correct direction to solve the problem.
Getting a mindset for the grinding wheel:
All too often, new users approach the grinding wheel with a sense of reverence and feel a need to preserve it. While proper use is important, it should be remembered that the grinding wheel is designed to be worn away during use. Look at the wheel as you would a set of good tires or brake linings. Good care extends their useful life, however, they are designed to be worn out.
The Tormek wheel is designed to be used as either a coarse wheel or a finer wheel, depending on how the grading stone is used. The wheel actually has a third grading when freshly dressed with the TT-50 diamond dresser (more coarse). Do not try to squeeze a bit more life out of your wheel or a bit of time off the sharpening operation by skipping the grading operation. Proper use of the grader is well covered in the videos and handbook. Follow these instructions!
Be patient and persevere. Your Tormek skills will quickly develop. Please feel free to participate in the forum. We welcome you.
First of all, I'm new to the forum and in using a sharpener. Joined the forum in the hopes of getting the basic do's and don'ts and I am amazed and surprised to see such a lively community of people devoting in this activity with so much detail and passion. Thanks for the read although I have to admit, most of what I've just read will be gone by the time I try to apply it. Is there a section here in this forum devoted to just the basics perhaps? I'd have my son do this but he's moved out a long time ago. Would appreciate any help.
I am looking for someone in the Los Angeles area to give me instruction on how to use my new T-7. I will be sharpening chisels, plane irons and knives. Please let me know what your fee and availability is.
Sincerely, Mark Jenkins
Welcome to the forum, Mark.
I hope you can find a Tormek coach in your area. In the meantime, I suggest you simplify. I started this topic with the intention that it would be a short, very usable guide to first steps with the Tormek. Learning the basic skills first will speed your mastery of your Tormek.
Spend a couple minutes placing and removing your water tray. Start with it dry and before you install the grinding wheel. This may seem rediculous, however, it will save you from fumbling later.
Make a label for removing your grinding wheel with the EZYLock. I have described this in another post today. If you can't locate the post, ask.
Do not start out with chisels, plane blades, and knives. Begin with just a three quarter inch bench chisel. Ideally, it should be of reasonably good quality and not part of a set. If you spend a lot of time working with this one chisel, you will save much more time.
The width of the chisel is important. Do not begin with a narrow chisel. It is a much more difficult tool to sharpen. Stay in the three quarter inch range.
Study Jeff Farris' videos on chisel sharpening.
Spend some time using the stone grader. Practice with it. The wear on your grind stone will be minimal.
Make sure you have a good working hieght and very good light.
All of this is covered in the handbook. Study it carefully, thiroughly and often.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Ken
Hi Ken,
I'm grateful that this topic has come back to light as I hadn't seen it before. I'd just like any Brit newbies to know that I just placed my order on amazon.co.uk for an Irwin Blue Chip Bevel Edge 3/4" chisel and a selection of Sharpie chisel edge and fine permanent markers. All here tomorrow!
All the best,
Gerald.
Welcome, Gerald.
Your Irwin chisel should serve you well with learning the Tormek. I have, in fact, followed my own advice. I just ordered several Irwin chisels from Amazon. I am reviewing the T4 and experimenting with some alternative honing methods. The three quarter inch chisel is as basic a tool as possible; it lets us focus on learning the machine.
That same chisel may continue serving you well if you want to experiment with things like different bevel angles.
I worked in my home photographic darkroom most of my life. I liked to keep one negative which I knew would easily produce a good quality print. If I had the odd printing session where things were not going right, I could make a print from this negative. If the print matched the "known good print", I knew that my enlarger, paper and chemicals were all working properly. That narrowed down the problem suspects considerably. If you ever have a bad sharpening session, resharpening your chisel will indicate if your Tormek is working properly.
Too bad the Irwin chisels no longer say Joseph Marples and Sons, Made in Sheffield. The world is changing.
You may be able to provide a valuable service for this forum. Just like Squanto, who translated the native languages for the English settlers in Plymouth, you may be able to translate our frontier dialect for the Brits back home. The Brits are easy to spot. They all seem to be named Rob or Robin (although one Kenny snuck in). The real giveaway is that they all seem to have uncles named Bob. We enjoy good natured fun being of divided by a common language. I hope you will join in both the Tormek part and the playful banter.
Ken
Ken, I've wondered how close the footprint chisels are to the old Marples?
I understand getting a new chisel, but to me, I still prefer to find and use a garage sale one. I've seen them in various conditions from a user, to used to open paint cans. That also gives me practice on refurbishing tools (one of the reasons I wanted a Tormek).
Quote from: Ken S on January 21, 2015, 12:34:11 PM
Welcome, Gerald.
The Brits are easy to spot. They all seem to be named Rob or Robin (although one Kenny snuck in). The real giveaway is that they all seem to have uncles named Bob.
Ken
Lol! In fact, you are not quite right. It is not we who have the uncles, it's you (those whom we advise). As in "and finally, just wash that slurry from your water bath somewhere other than down the sink and Bob's your uncle". In extremis, may be stretched to "and Bob's your dad's brother".
G.
Point well taken, Gerald. (If it was your uncle, his name would be Rob.)
Ken
Quote from: Ken S on March 12, 2013, 09:02:51 PM
Using a Tormek is like driving a manual gearbox ("stick shift" for us on this side of the pond) car. There is a bit of a learning curve, one which thousands of users have completed successfully. Here is our advice to develop your "clutch foot".
Be patient and persevere. Your Tormek skills will quickly develop. Please feel free to participate in the forum. We welcome you.
So, I found this 'stick shift' analogy. What relevance.
Putting the knife on and taking it off the wheel is like letting go the clutch.
Reminding oneself to push down on the jig against the USB is like reminding oneself not to rest the foot on the clutch pedal.
The transition from straight to curve is like judging when to shift gears when taking a corner.
Watching the water flow is like watching the traffic/speedometer in the midst of doing everything else.
Flipping the knife 180 degrees to grind is like driving a left and then a right hand 'stick shift' car.
No wonder using the Tormek (knife jig) is like learning how to drive a car.
Hopefully, once you 'get it', everything falls into place. :)
And no, I haven't got it but for now, it's fun and frustrating.
The Tormek eh....an enigma wrapped in a puzzle :-)
Rob,
Mine must have been the Americanized version; it came packed in a cardboard box.
Ken
Have you been listening to monty python Ken.....your humour is getting more English by the day....commendable...keep it up :-)
Ken, now that you are a moderator would you consider cleaning up this thread and turning it into what you wanted it to be when you started it?
Herman,
You have an excellent suggestion. I never intended for this topic to become so large. My original idea was to provide the new users an on forum easy to follow guide to learning some of the basics of successfully using a Tormek.Learning how to sharpen a chisel seemed the most basic tool. A chisel requires only the SE-76 jig, which is provided with the T7. A usable new chisel can be purchased for approximately ten US dollars, so no major investment is necessary. It is probably the most frequently sharpened tool for woodworkers, and is a handy tool for any homeowner. The 3/4" (19mm) width is a useful balance between being wide enough to easily sharpen and narrow enough not to be a chore.
Learning to sharpen a chisel provides the new user with an opportunity to master most of the basic Tormek skills. One learns how to set up and maintain the water trough; how to use the basic jig, including how to properly set the bevel angle angle using the anglemaster, a marking pen, or a kenjig; how to maintain the grinding wheel with the truing tool and stone grader; how to set up and use the leather honing wheel; how to check for squareness of the grind. One becomes familiar with the feel and sound of the Tormek during grinding. With practice (repetition), the new user will become quite comfortable with his new Tormek and ready to branch out to sharpening other tools. A chisel has only one straight, flat, and large enough to be easily seen bevel. Learning how to sharpen the humble chisel gives the new user a solid foundation.
Yes, I need to rework this topic. It needs to be much shorter. It also needs visual aids. With fifty years experience as a photographer, I can make photos to accompany the topic. My constraint here is the digital side. I recently sold or gave away my beloved film cameras and darkroom and am now completely digital. However, having the equipment does not necessarily mean having the skill. I am actively studying Lightroom and related digital skills. Thanks to help from a few forum members, I can now place photos on the forum. During the rewrite, I may consult members for help. With my personal obligations, I will not be able to do much work on this project until almost December.
I would like to see similar basic guide topics in each of the sub forums. I am not a turner or carver. I certainly would not attempt to explain the planer jig at my present level of skill! We would need some help for the other topics, including, hopefully, from Sweden.
Ideally, I would prefer to have this topic covered by a well done video. I would like to see something done with the in depth content and technical excellence that Steve has produced. I would prefer this be produced by Tormek. Tormek would benefit from this by having content control; the equipment involved would be exclusively Tormek. In the case of a beginner, having the technique demonstrated be also the "orthodox" Tormek method would also be beneficial. (We all stray a bit, but let's learn the straight path first.)
Herman, I will work on this project and keep everyone posted as to progress. Member input is appreciated.
Ken
Ken - as someone just getting started, I found the suggestions of the 'main topic' to be perfect! I've got a few chisels to work with and I'm learning with each effort. Quite simply, I think this is a great way for anyone to start. Thanks for taking the time, everyone, in pulling this together.
Mike
Mike,
Welcome o the forum. I am pleased you have found the "main topic" useful. The more I use the Tormek, the more I believe the humble chisel is the great teacher. The 3/4" bench chisel is the simplist of edged tools: a straight edge; a flat tool; a single bevel large enough to easily use the anglemaster or marker; Tormek life doesn't get any better than this.
The chisel will help you learn the sound of Tormek grinding, the feel, and what sharp can be. It can be a good warmup after a long period of inactivity. It is also a useful troubleshooting aid when your sharpening is not going well. If you can resharpen your chisel, your Tormek and grinding wheel are functioning properly. That lets you focus your troubleshooting.
Do keep us posted with your progress and do not hesitate to post questions; that's how we all learn.
Ken
hi all,
I'm getting ready to invest in a t8, is there an attachment available that will allow me to sharpen woodchipper knives? they are double sided, 3/8" thick and 6" long. I would love to know if it would be possible. thank you
Welcome to the forum! :)
Yes, Tormek offers Planer Blade Attachment SVH-320. More info you will find at http://www.tormek.com/international/en/grinding-jigs/svh-320-planer-blade-attachment/
The attachment copes with any blade length but minimum width is some 13 mm.
Jan
I have never done those, nor do I have all the jigs. My personal opinion, is this would be a marker and SVD-110 platform job. However the thickness will fit in the SE-76. I do not have or know about the planer blade or moulding knife jig to tell.
When you say woodchipper though, I am thinking you mean one that does tree limbs, rather then a planer.
Gtrubicon,
I have emailed Stig, our contact person at Tormek. (Stig is also the head of Tormek Support.) Stig replied that he will look into it. Due to his work schedule, it may take several days.
Ken
This thread briefly discussed chipper blades.
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1398.msg4338#msg4338
A further comment by tonylumps:
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1507.msg5239#msg5239
Good find. Thanks. Elden.
Incidentally (pertaining to the original topic), I just placed an order for three more Irwin Blue chip 3/4" chisels. I found a source on
amazon priced at $8.19 with Prime (free two day shipping). My original five included only two 3/4" size. I want to keep the size the same for test work.
Ken
Hi Ken,
Apologies if this is going over old ground but i am struggling to get a square edge to chisels and planes. Tried re grinding the stone, checked arm square to stone, tried tightening left to right etc on the jig, but all to no avail. Was wondering if there is a video tutorial or any other way of putting me out of my misery !
Many thanks
Sean.
Sean it might help to list what Jig you have or are using. Did you just buy a T-8 and have the most recent, or are you using some used equipment you bough, and a much older jig, which the advice may differ?
Quote from: sean on January 09, 2017, 11:23:48 PM
Apologies if this is going over old ground but i am struggling to get a square edge to chisels and planes. Tried re grinding the stone, checked arm square to stone, tried tightening left to right etc on the jig, but all to no avail. Was wondering if there is a video tutorial or any other way of putting me out of my misery !
Shen, the edge non squarness is a very annoying but quite frequent issue. :) To avoid it I align the edge of plane irons and wider chisels to a pencil line drawn on the stone when mounting it into the square edge jig.
It is more precise than an alignment to the jig shoulder which works only for parallel tool sides. The initial edge should be square otherwise you replicate the skew! If the edge is not square make it square before mounting it into the jig. ;)
Use the marker method and check the sharpening progress frequently!
Good luck!
Jan
This is a great topic and I am glad it is still active.
There were some comments made earlier in the thread about watching some videos. For the holidays I received a T-8, and it came with an accompanying DVD that I am unable to watch [no DVD player]. Are these videos available online somewhere for viewing? Also, my grinding wheel has a slight oddity in its rotation - is that normal? Finally, does anyone else get a lot of vibration noise between the plastic water housing and the metal body of the Tormek? Is there a tip or trick to eliminate that [would something as simple as some electrical tape do it]?
Also, I have a question about flattening the back of a plane iron. How much pressure should I exert sideways on the stone while trying to flatten the backs of my plane irons?
Sean - if you have a T-8, one thing that has provided me no end of confusion is that the new jig [S-77] has some adjustments to allow for a cambered blade, but it does not necessarily come set 100% flat. I had to monkey around with my jig to get it to a point where the plane iron would sit in neutral to the stone. Check those two knobs and the line on the back of the jig.
Welcome to the forum, Chris.
If you do a google search for "tormek youtube channel" you will find the Tormek sharpening innovation you tubes. This has most if not all on the DVDwhich came with your T8.
To be perfectly honest, I have not opened the DVD which came with my T8. I have watched the you tubes and the earlier version of the DVD numerous times. I need to watch the new version. I have learned a lot from watching Tormek's videos. If you happen to be a turner, I consider the DVD in the woodturning information kit to be Tormek's best video. Make sure you also watch the friends videos.
See the back flattening topic in our handtool sub forum. We have somewhat differing thoughts on plane backs.
Sorry, I have to pause. It's time to get my grandchildren ready for school. More soon.
Ken
Quote from: Jan on January 10, 2017, 10:09:27 AM
Quote from: sean on January 09, 2017, 11:23:48 PM
Apologies if this is going over old ground but i am struggling to get a square edge to chisels and planes. Tried re grinding the stone, checked arm square to stone, tried tightening left to right etc on the jig, but all to no avail. Was wondering if there is a video tutorial or any other way of putting me out of my misery !
Shen, the edge non squarness is a very annoying but quite frequent issue. :) To avoid it I align the edge of plane irons and wider chisels to a pencil line drawn on the stone when mounting it into the square edge jig.
It is more precise than an alignment to the jig shoulder which works only for parallel tool sides. The initial edge should be square otherwise you replicate the skew! If the edge is not square make it square before mounting it into the jig. ;)
Use the marker method and check the sharpening progress frequently!
Good luck!
Jan
There is another method that works really well to keep a square edge too. If you take a sharpie and a small engineers square and use them to mark the BACK of the chisel. Do it right up close to the edge. Once the chisel is mounted (which if you use Jan's method will be square) you can now see your line on the reverse. As you grind, regularly pull the chisel out of the water interference to examine if your freshly ground edge remains parallel to the sharpie line (or cambered to it depending on the grind you're aiming for). There is no question that uneven grinding is a common problem and if you think about it, the centre of the blade gets twice as much grinding as the corners if you're sliding it across the stone because with each pass the corners go off the edge of the stone but the middle remains. The net effect over time means the edge will start to describe a concave profile. The worst of all worlds for a plane blade because you want it either dead square or convex (to stop the corners digging in whilst planing).
So to compensate, one typically leans more heavily or grinds for longer on the high spots ie the corners which in turn starts to throw out the middle. If you keep that sharpie line on the back you have a visual reference so on pretty much every pass you can keep correcting the high spots until the bevel is complete and the edge describes the profile you're after.
So my recommendation is to combine Jan's line on the wheel with my line on the reverse of the blade (chisel or plane).
Jan and Rob,
Very good thoughts. I agree.
Ken
Rob, I like your recommendation to mark the back of the blade! :)
I will include it in my repertoire soon.
Jan
In response to ChrisC and the noise between the body and water tray, my T7 now buzzes like and angry bee in a jar. I have tried jamming pieces of shim rubber in various places, which reduced the noise a bit, but I haven't found the root cause of the problem.
Thanks Ken, I will definitely look into it. I've just purchased a first 'nice' blade from Hock tools, so I want to make sure I know what I need to do to get the mirror-like finish I've seen in some photos!
Robin - I am glad that I'm not the only one, it means that it wasn't user error in setting something up incorrectly! I've been trying to identify it. I'm going to try some electrical tape between the tray and the body, see if that acts as a sort of insulator / vibration damper.
Chris and Robin,
I don't recall the buzzing/vibration issue being posted before. I suggest we bring in the cavalry (support@tormek.se). Tormek in Sweden may have encountered this previously. If not, they need to be on board.
Jan,
I like your perpendicular line on the grinding wheel suggestion. The new square edge jig (SE-77) brings both potential benefits and potential problems. Tormek seems to market it primarily for chisels, with plane camber being an also included benefit. I would reverse the order. I think the adjustable and controllable camber capability is the strongest feature of the jig. It is welcome (and long overdue).
The downside risk is that having the ability to adjust the square shoulder more precisely also makes it possible to misalign the square shoulder. This is like being able to swing the headstock of a lathe for taper work. With the SE-77, we have the two witness marks, but no alignment pin or good test procedure, except using a square to check the edge.
I suggest adding a substitute target with the line on the grinding wheel. The target is a piece of plastic or metal. Dimensions are approximate, but a good starting point would be the thickness of the grinding wheel across and perhaps 150mm (6") long. Thickness should be enough to clamp well in the jig and thin enough not to be difficult to see with the line on the grinding wheel.(Sorry, my SE-77 is on loan to a friend, so I can't easily check it.)
The target piece needs to be a regular rectangle with four 90° angles. This simulates a chisel which is accurately parallel and ground square.
Having the target piece the full width of the stone lets us observe any deviation from parallel with the drawn line much more easily and precisely than to could do with a narrower cjisel, especially a very narrow chisel. The target piece is also "known good". Drawing lines along the outside and rotating it end for end, making the lines are aligned checks its accuracy. Unlike using different chisels, the target piece's accuracy is consistent.
Improperly ground Western chisels, or hand forged Japanese chisels will require some fiddling.The target piece checks the accuracy of the square shoulder and the jig.
I like Rob's idea of the Sharpie line. I do suggest checking the line with the square from both sides of the chisel blade. I believe using the line and substitute target might achieve the same square grind with less metal removal.
I think the new SE-77 jig is a genuine step forward, however, like a fine musical instrument, reaching its potential depends on keeping it in tune.
Ken
ps to Chris:
Replacement Hock blades have been on my wish list. I hope yours works very well for you. If you do not already have it, I highly recommend Ron's sharpening book, The Perfect Edge. Do post your thoughts on your new Hock blade in handtools.
Thanks Ken - next time I make it into my workshop I will take a quick video with the buzzing and forward it over to them.
I need to do more looking into confirming a perpendicular grind. I also need to true-up my cheapo home depot square - I don't think it is actually true. A starret 6" square is on my wish list, so I have one nice one that I know is true.
I received my Hock blade - I would say I'm cautiously optimistic. The blade itself looks great, I'm very excited to clean it up and get it into my #7, however the chipbreaker doesn't marry up very well to the blade. I don't have any experience with this style of chip-breaker yet, where it doesn't have the curve, so I'm not entirely sure how to go about cleaning that edge up. I've sent an email off to their 'contact us' email and hope to get an answer back shortly.
Chris,
I used to collect machinist tools and love Starrett squares. However, before condemning the cheapo square, I would check it for squareness. This is easily done. Place a piece of paper cardboard on a solid surface. Make sure the edge of the paper is straight. Place the square against the middle of the edge of the paper. Draw a line with a sharp pencil. Flip the square over and draw another line almost on top of the original line. These two lines should be parallel. If not, your square is not reading true.
If you buy a Starrett square and treat it well, it will easily last your lifetime, and probably your children's lifetimes. I think at least one Starrett square is essential. Accept no substitutes!
I would be quite surprised if Ron Hock's customer service was anything but stellar. Original chipbreakers can usually be tuned. You also have the option of a Hock chipbreaker.
Keep us posted.
Ken
Thanks Ken, I will be doing this as soon as I hit the workshop.
It's actually a set - hock plane blade and cap iron - hence my confusion at the mis-match. I have no doubt he'll clear up any problems I have.
Ken, what do you think about adding something to the first post in this topic about initial honing wheel conditioning and what to expect in normal use? Things like cautioning about over-oiling, whether to expect a bit of compound to flake off in use, whether you need to scrape off old compound. This doesn't seem to be well covered in the handbook and I think beginners would appreciate having that info from the get go.
Hello everybody,
I've been sharpening knives (mainly) and tools for some years already, mostly on fixed angle sharpening devices and freehand.
Now a real newbee with Tormek. I received the machine but still didn't ""dare"" to go and unpack it. I keep watching tutorials before I lay my hands on it...
Some things look most familiar, when watching the vids. Some not that much.
But anyway, i's great to read there's a forum available to users, especially for greenhorns :)
Hope I will improve and contribute soon !
Best regards.
Quote from: Erivan on May 29, 2019, 03:20:29 AM
Hello everybody,
I've been sharpening knives (mainly) and tools for some years already, mostly on fixed angle sharpening devices and freehand.
Now a real newbee with Tormek. I received the machine but still didn't ""dare"" to go and unpack it. I keep watching tutorials before I lay my hands on it...
Some things look most familiar, when watching the vids. Some not that much.
But anyway, i's great to read there's a forum available to users, especially for greenhorns :)
Hope I will improve and contribute soon !
Best regards.
No time like today! Unpack it and set it up (takes a few minutes) and sharpen some knives that you do not have any attachment to. You will be amazed how straight forward it is. Take your time and follow the Tormek video's advice especially when you near the tip of a blade where it curves. I also recommend that you double check your jig setup before turning on the wheel. It seems that we all set it wrong early on and grind the jig a bit. Another bit of advice; don't raise the water tray all the way; it will result in a wet workbench. The Tormek is fun to use and it does not take long to feel right at home with it.
@ Ken S - your message dated March 11, 2013.
I am really happy I read this.
As a good wine, it gets better with time ;)
Your post is so straight to the point I can't believe it.
It took me some hours (not days or weeks...) to understand how to use my brand new T8.
At first, I was hopeless and thought I would never manage it.
And then, I went back to watch video tutorials, read posts, again and again...
Well, it worked quite nicely.
Yesterday, I put my favourite chef knife on the machine. And this is to evidence how confident I was, as I would never put that blade at risk.
I now have a big smile on my face when I use the blade.
In about 5 to 7 minutes, the blade was sharp. With my previous system, it would have taken about an hour.
Still, I went the extra mile and buffed the blade on my good old MDF wheel, with CR203 compound.
A very nice result, indeed.
Thanks for you messages, Ken S.
¡Bravo, Erivan!
Your experience with your chef's knife reminds me of when I removed the training wheels from my grandson's bicycle. My wife and I were worried that he would fall and hurt himself. He did wobble somewhat, but was soon riding like an old pro and loving it. Like you, I believe in the value of study. When studying is combined with actual use, one soon learn to filter out the mediocre sources (which are many) and focus on the valuable sources.
Keep sharpening with your Tormek. Keep studying. Keep posting; there are many who can be encouraged and benefit from your experiences.
Ken
@ Ken S,
:)
I got (once again) a big smile on my old mug reading your post.
I'll be doing as you wrote and keep learning. I'm already asking friends if they need some knife sharpening service, as my spouse is very much into things like sustainable economy and "buy local". She keeps telling I could even learn better and make a job of it...
Thanks for all,
Rgds
I am a newbie, Got my T8 about a month age. I have been grinding all of my hand tools to the correct angle. While working on the iron for my #6 plane, I looked down and saw all this blood on the paper towel, I had been using to wipe the water off of the blade. It was a very small cut that I didn't even feel. Damn these tools are sharp. While there is a learning curve to the Tormek. I am impressed with the results.
My name is Tom ( Gene is the name of my dog )
Welcome to the forum, Gene and Tom.
You are learning what Tormek sharp can be, a very good way to begin. Now you have a good goal.
Do keep us posted!
Ken
First of all, I appreciate being a part of the Tormek community. Its quite exciting for me to be able to reach out to specialized individuals for advice and direction. I never really thought about learning how to use the T-8 by sharpening a chisel, but it looks like I should try it. ultimately I have joined this to learn, and respond to others and to make sharpening an easier and more enjoyable experience.
I have been sharpening on japanese whet stones, which I enjoy doing, but Iv invested in the T-8 because it can be more precise an easy in so many ways. But one of my initial quetions is what is the difference between stropping compounds that come from a "tube" or just the "brick" form? how much of a difference does it make? and how difficult is it to switch the compound levels to the same wheel?
Quote from: Shiyo on November 06, 2019, 08:30:43 AM
I have been sharpening on japanese whet stones, which I enjoy doing, but Iv invested in the T-8 because it can be more precise an easy in so many ways. But one of my initial quetions is what is the difference between stropping compounds that come from a "tube" or just the "brick" form? how much of a difference does it make? and how difficult is it to switch the compound levels to the same wheel?
When you use the Japanese stone good results can be obtained by using a finer compound than the Tormek paste which ranges from 2.5 - 5 microns.
It is not recommended to switch compounds on one wheel. It is not possible to clean one compound off before switching and you will get cross contamination reducing the effectiveness of your finer compound. Separate wheels for each compound used is best. Here is a discussion on the subject.
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3385.0
Shiyo,
I think the difference between tube and brick honing compounds is primarily grit size. The Tormek PA-70 is designed to be an all around compound. As such, it is quite versatile. Are there better compounds designed for special jobs? Probably so.
A bench chisel is the most basic edge I can imagine. It is single bevel, straight, and large enough to be easily observed. I think it is the easiest way to learn a lot about the Tormek, from becoming familiar with the feel and sound of grinding, to using the stone grader, to learning the effect of different wheel coarseness, to using the truing tool and learning what sharp is. In my opinion, the Tormek is a chisel sharpener which also works with knives.
John, like the kenjig, the Tormek paste predates the SJ and other compounds. Again, I do not expect any productto be "the best" at all things.
Ken
That all makes sense. Thank you very much. I am practicing with some old chisels, but ultimately im hoping to be able to do knifes with the T8. Also im debating wether to get the frontal vertical base. Although im relatively new to using the T8 it seems like it takes too much material off knives while going against. When I put the support bar on the lower spot to grind away from the edge it seems very difficult. This could be all part of the "learning curve" but it seems that "frontal vertical base" that Vadim uses should be the way to go. I hope im explaining this in a way that makes sense. I guess my question is; what are your thoughts on purchasing that part?
Thanks again, this is all so helpful and exciting!
Quote from: Shiyo on November 08, 2019, 07:41:46 PM
That all makes sense. Thank you very much. I am practicing with some old chisels, but ultimately im hoping to be able to do knifes with the T8. Also im debating wether to get the frontal vertical base. Although im relatively new to using the T8 it seems like it takes too much material off knives while going against. When I put the support bar on the lower spot to grind away from the edge it seems very difficult. This could be all part of the "learning curve" but it seems that "frontal vertical base" that Vadim uses should be the way to go. I hope im explaining this in a way that makes sense. I guess my question is; what are your thoughts on purchasing that part?
Thanks again, this is all so helpful and exciting!
When you grind with the wheel rotating away from you you will get a bigger burr that takes more effort to properly remove. I sharpen most things with the wheel coming towards me and have not had issues with it removing too much material. Some well known sharpeners also use the wheel going away and swear by it. It is all your choice. I have the FVB and find it invaluable for burr removal on the leather wheel and for sharpening some blades with the wheel rotating away.
Thanks for the info. I guess ultimately having the FVB makes it more versatile anyway. So ill probably end up getting it. One question when using the honing wheel: the first time I used it I followed the directions on how much oil to put before the white compound that comes with the Tormek. How do i know when to add more of the compound? the last time I did it I added what I though was a good amount, but when I do the honing there is quite a lot of white compound that comes off. Is that normal? Thanks for all the help!
Normally we just add oil to the leather wheel before the first use. It prepares the surface to not absorb most of the honing compound. I have never added oil after the first use.
Ken
Yes, I havent added oil. just the compound. But when I use the leather wheel with the compound some comes off. That is normal ? and i just wipe it off the blade?
What i mean to say is Yes, I have added the oil. Before the put the compound. Just as directed. But its curious that bits of the white compound fly off. Maybe I add too much?
Grant,
Several years ago, a staff member of the US Tormek importer told me that putting oil on a new leather honing wheel was unnecessary, as one of the ingredients in the honing compound was oil. He meant well, but was mistaken. Without the initial oil, as you found, you get flakes. You may not have enough oil on your leather wheel. Add just a little and see if that solves your problems.
Today's difficulties will diminish as you use your Tormek.
Enjoy your Tormek and keep posting.
Ken
Adding a link to truing procedures for the TT-50 contained in an excellent thread.
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3053.0
Hello All
My name is Bill. I thought this would be the appropriate place for my first post. I've not purchased my T-8 yet but am saving towards it. I have plans to open a small sharpening business when I retire in a few years and the T-8 is on my kit list. I've been quite proficient at sharpening a wide variety of tools, knives, blades, chainsaws etc. for myself and others since very young thanks to my father's influence who would always take the time to sharpen a tool rather than try to use it dull. I'm almost always surprised by what some people think is sharp and they are almost always surprised when I give something back to them that I've sharpened.
I've used a variety of stones, papers, grinders and fixed angle jigs over the years and can't shake the urge to try something like the T-8. As a youngster I used to use an old treadle powered wet stone to sharpen freehand hatchets, axes, lawnmower blades and knives and became pretty proficient. I see the Tormek machines as the equivalent to the "Space Shuttle" as compared to the old treadle powered wet stone. With all the jigs, accessories, user mods, videos and expert user advice available for the Tormek machines I'm sure it will become an invaluable addition to my kit.
I tend to research the heck out of something before I jump in so I've got a lot of reading and learning from others to do here on the forum while saving for my own!
Welcome to the forum Bill. You will find that the members her are always available to answer your questions. The T-8 is a great tool that I think you will enjoy using.
Bill, welcome to the forum.
I like your long term planning. Your lifelong sharpening experience will serve you well learning the Tormek. Over the years I have seen too many posts from enthusiastic (probably younger) members with itchy credit cards and very little Tormek or sharpening knowledge.
Deciding to purchase a Tormek is an investment worthy of serious thought. Compared to other tools of similar quality, like Starrett, Lie-Nielsen, or Baldor, Tormek is not over priced. However, neither is it inexpensive. One early item I would highly recommend for you is "Sharpening School" by Steve Bottorff (sharpeningmadeeasy.com). Steve ran a successful sharpening business for many years. He also taught one on one. Before he retired, he made a professional quality DVD designed continue his teaching. This is an invaluable, must have resource for anyone wanting to start a sharpening business. Steve is my friend and mentor; you won't find a better coach.
Keep posting!
Ken
Quote from: Bill2455 on January 19, 2020, 02:31:46 PM
Hello All
My name is Bill. I thought this would be the appropriate place for my first post. I've not purchased my T-8 yet but am saving towards it. I have plans to open a small sharpening business when I retire in a few years and the T-8 is on my kit list. I've been quite proficient at sharpening a wide variety of tools, knives, blades, chainsaws etc. for myself and others since very young thanks to my father's influence who would always take the time to sharpen a tool rather than try to use it dull. I'm almost always surprised by what some people think is sharp and they are almost always surprised when I give something back to them that I've sharpened.
I've used a variety of stones, papers, grinders and fixed angle jigs over the years and can't shake the urge to try something like the T-8. As a youngster I used to use an old treadle powered wet stone to sharpen freehand hatchets, axes, lawnmower blades and knives and became pretty proficient. I see the Tormek machines as the equivalent to the "Space Shuttle" as compared to the old treadle powered wet stone. With all the jigs, accessories, user mods, videos and expert user advice available for the Tormek machines I'm sure it will become an invaluable addition to my kit.
I tend to research the heck out of something before I jump in so I've got a lot of reading and learning from others to do here on the forum while saving for my own!
Bill,
Pay particular attention to those by Dr. Vadim Kraichuk ("Wootz" on the forum). He has a shop in Australia called KnifeGrinders (http://knifegrinders.com.au/ ). He has a sharpening business, and has done a LOT of research on how to sharpen most effectively and efficiently.
Good luck,
Rich
Thank you Ken S. I am reading your post for beginners. I sure am a beginner. I look forward to learning this whole new learning experience. I am totally open with suggestions, constructive critisism, and whatever else. I suspect the people in this group are very helpful, and most of all? I hope I can help someone too. My spelling is pretty bad lol... Thank you for having me. I am a 100% disabled veteran. Sometimes I can't make it down to the shop due to my disabilities, and quite often unfortunately I misread things at times. Just letting yall know, that I didn't mean too. Apologizing right up front, things confuse me easily. :-) I'm also known as The Lazy WoodWorker. TLWW. I should have used that as my login name, dang it LOL
Welcome, TLWW ;D
I think you'll like it here. So much information and over the top helpful people. And I think far easier to share information, especially photos.
Rick
Welcome to the forum, Michael.
One of the many things I like about this forum is that we all have different life experiences. None of us left the womb knowing everything about Tormek sharpening, however, by working together, we all benefit.
Ken
Thank you Rick and Ken. Great to be here. I look forward to searching the wisdom of the many turner in here.
Quote from: Michael L on January 23, 2020, 02:01:42 PM
Thank you Rick and Ken. Great to be here. I look forward to searching the wisdom of the many turner in here.
I like your signature. I've expressed something similar in regard to metal working, but it applies to woodworking:
"Making chips out of good metal"
Rick
Hi Ken. Would you happen to have the link for the bevel angle calculator link? Andy videos on hot to use it? You use it if you want to put an additional bevel/cutting angle on a tool right? Tyvm...M
Michael,
Here is a link to my original source which provided the math for my kenjig.
http://knifegrinders.com.au/Manuals/Grinding_Angle_Adjustment_Booklet.pdf
If you google "kenjig instructions" you will find the illustrated pdf I wrote for the forum.
As for other calculator links, I am not the right person to ask. Others are better qualified to help with that. However, I really believe you will be better off sticking with the basic Tormek technique until you have mastered it. If the Anglemaster is difficult, use the black marker technique.
Do not become discouraged.
Ken
Quote from: Ken S on January 24, 2020, 03:04:52 PM
Michael,
Here is a link to my original source which provided the math for my kenjig.
http://knifegrinders.com.au/Manuals/Grinding_Angle_Adjustment_Booklet.pdf
If you google "kenjig instructions" you will find the illustrated pdf I wrote for the forum.
...
Ken and Michael, that link refers to an unusable file with cut pages.
Moreover, it is not the original source that is updated if desired.
Please look at the links in my signature below
Quote from: Michael L on January 24, 2020, 04:29:30 AM
Hi Ken. Would you happen to have the link for the bevel angle calculator link?
Michael, in my thinking, the best available calculator is TormekCalc which was recently upgraded to TormekCalc2.
TormekCalc2 programmed by JVH is a professionally made Excel spreadsheet which offers all what a Tormeker may need and even more. It is sophisticated script supplemented with perfect explanatory drawings.
It is here: https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=4181.msg29509#new
Jan
Michael,
I am concerned that your beginner's enthusiasm will be your undoing with the Tormek. With your military memory loss, I believe the most effective angle setting technique for you is using a Sharpie marker. This is proven, simple and direct. It is also in regular use by many sharpening experts.
You can learn to become proficient in sharpening. By stripping down set up to the most basic level, you can focus on the actual grinding. With practice, like all of us, you will become proficient.
Please do not misunderstand me. These setting programs are marvelous. In my opinion, they have advanced sharpening even further than even Tormek thought was possible. However, beginners forget that our members who have designed these programs have decades of math experience as well as years of sharpening experience.
Michael, I urge you to forget about all of these advanced programs and concentrate on basic sharpening.
Ken
I bought a T8 following quite extensive research into different systems and methodology's. One of the benefits I could see was the wealth of information on this forum. I think it natural that people want the best possible results from their sharpening.
That said I have no intention of buying any other stones or paper wheels etc as the results I have achieved so far I'm happy with.
I use a modified version of the Kenjig just to speed up setting up the machine. I have 3 templates cut to create different angles. One side of the template is to set the height of the USB to the stone, the other side to set the height from the USB to the leather wheel.
I used a calculator that was posted on here to get the measurements and laser cut the templates for accuracy. So I would like to thank you all for being so generous with your knowledge.
I am a woodwork teacher at a school so sharpen a range of tools and other peoples' knives.
(https://i.postimg.cc/WdrmWbcK/F618-BA60-34-D0-497-F-98-CF-F87-FD72-B5-E98.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WdrmWbcK)
Welcome to the forum, Batsman.
I am pleased that you have posted and very pleased that there are teachers like you. Having worked with the kenjig concept for ten years, it has become second nature to me. I divide understanding the kenjig into understanding the jig itself and understanding the concept behind it. You clearly understand both.
Thanks for your kind words about the forum.
Keep posting.
Ken
I am a total newbie and I am trying to use TormekCalc for T-4 but none of the constants are available for that machine.
Looking for constants for T-4: VH, HH, HV, VV as shown in the attached drawing
Quote from: Petter on May 11, 2020, 07:04:03 PM
I am a total newbie and I am trying to use TormekCalc for T-4 but none of the constants are available for that machine.
Looking for constants for T-4: VH, HH, HV, VV as shown in the attached drawing
From some older notes I have: VH=66 HH=29 HV=50 VV=20. (I didn't double check... so do some testing to verify).
Also just so you know, you can use the "T USB" measurement... which measures from the top of the USB to the top of the wheel... that measurement doesn't need the machine measurements. (The machine measurements only matter if you're setting the USB by measuring to the machine). :)
Quote from: Petter on May 11, 2020, 07:04:03 PM
I am a total newbie and I am trying to use TormekCalc for T-4 but none of the constants are available for that machine.
Looking for constants for T-4: VH, HH, HV, VV as shown in the attached drawing
I sent you PM.
Generally, because dimensions can vary little bit on same type of machine I recommend you to measure them exactly on your Tormek. Use a caliper, ruler, square (or whatever else) to get them. Then check TormekCalc2 outputs through "T USB" dimensions - if these dimensions match, constants are O.K. If not, a better measurement or correction of constants is necessary. If you have a problem to measure "T USB" dimension use a distance pad between stone and USB, measure length of used pad and add 12 mm (USB diameter).
Quote from: cbwx34
From some older notes I have: VH=66 HH=29 HV=50 VV=20. (I didn't double check... so do some testing to verify).
Also just so you know, you can use the "T USB" measurement... which measures from the top of the USB to the top of the wheel... that measurement doesn't need the machine measurements. (The machine measurements only matter if you're setting the USB by measuring to the machine).
Thank you.
jvh
Quote from: jvh on May 11, 2020, 08:48:42 PM
Use a caliper, ruler, square (or whatever else) to get them.
jvh
Hi! I couldn't find a decent way to measure precisely a distance such as FH... Any hints ?
Quote from: tgbto on April 01, 2021, 11:51:08 AM
Hi! I couldn't find a decent way to measure precisely a distance such as FH... Any hints ?
Hello,
I suppose that you mean variable length HF - see picture in Petter's post above or the same one in TormekCalc2.
As you can see the dimension HF consists from FVB body thickness, constant VH and variable dimension F.
I used a caliper for measuring FVB body thickness and I am using it also for measuring dimension F if my FVB is not at stops or notches (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=4129.0).
For measuring VH constant (and others too) I used a square angle ruler, caliper and some distance pads. I measured dimensions including USB and shaft diameter, then substracted half of each one.
Then I checked setting for all USBs via T dimension (distance from USB to wheel surface) in low, middle and high position and made the constants corrections. I used also Excel tool What-if Analysis for that. It took me couple of hours but it is only one time job and now I am sure that constants for my T-8 machine are very accurate.
jvh
'bog standard' is English slang with the meaning akin to 'common or garden' i.e. basic, simple, unsophisticated, run-of-the-mill. I don't like the use of the word regular when used (incorrectly in English) to mean 'bog standard'. Owing to the American influence, English speakers are also being nudged towards 'regular' for both 'normal' and 'frequent' In fact the correct usage of 'regular in English dictates that an occurrence is regular when the time period between occurrences is constant and equal. Frequent means having a relatively short time period (but not necessarily equal) between occurrence. There.. I've got that off my chest. :)
Nice! I like the clutch analogy!😜
Here is a review of the Irwin chisel I recommend as a learning tool.
https://youtu.be/8EENGTbziF0
Ken
Greetings, looking for some direction. I am a new owner of a T8. I am having issues with the grind angle not being the same on each side of the blade. What am I doing wrong? Thank you in advance.
Quote from: Ste1525 on December 28, 2023, 02:27:38 AMGreetings, looking for some direction. I am a new owner of a T8. I am having issues with the grind angle not being the same on each side of the blade. What am I doing wrong? Thank you in advance.
See if this recent thread helps: Asymmetrical bevel result on knives (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5432.0.html)
Thank you very much!!
I am new to the Tormek world. I don't want to be the irritating newbie who asks that the group repeat the basics just for me. So, started with the pinned post "Tips, Tricks & Techniques Beginners Start Here" (dated March 2013). link sharptoolsusa.com seems inactive. Tormek has a YouTube series "Tormek Live Sharpening" which might be nice to binge watch—if I could find a complete listing (can't find this on tormek.com). Any help find these would be great. Then I will, I promise, go away and leave you all in peace until I have done my homework—and have sharpened a bunch of stuff on my Tormek.
Quote from: Ian E on January 13, 2024, 08:47:36 PMI am new to the Tormek world. I don't want to be the irritating newbie who asks that the group repeat the basics just for me. So, started with the pinned post "Tips, Tricks & Techniques Beginners Start Here" (dated March 2013). link sharptoolsusa.com seems inactive. Tormek has a YouTube series "Tormek Live Sharpening" which might be nice to binge watch—if I could find a complete listing (can't find this on tormek.com). Any help find these would be great. Then I will, I promise, go away and leave you all in peace until I have done my homework—and have sharpened a bunch of stuff on my Tormek.
Sharptools is now Advanced Machinery (https://www.advmachinery.com/)
The Tormek Sharpening classes from the live streams is HERE (https://www.youtube.com/@TormekSharpening/streams).
Salve a tutti,
Primo: cosa sono le mole CBN?
Secondo: ho letto che le mole diamantate, si possono usare anche a secco, ma così quanto durano? Con l'acqua, approssimativamente , quante affilature sopportano?
Terzo: è prevista una mola più grossolana (in pietra o diamantata) che permetta di fare la prima sgrossatura (soprattutto quando la lama è molto rovinata) e permettere a quelle più fini di durare di più?
Grazie e buon proseguimento di serata
First: what are CBN grinding wheels?
Second: I read that diamond grinding wheels can also be used dry, but how long do they last? With water, approximately, how many sharpenings can they withstand?
Third: is there a coarser grinding wheel (stone or diamond) that allows you to make the first roughing (especially when the blade is very damaged) and allow the finer ones to last longer?
CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) wheels are made of CBN, the second hardest material.Only diamond is harder. Both diamond and CBN wheels are considered superabrasives and generally. ut faster and harder steel than conventionalgrinding wheels. While not identical, they can usually be used interchangeably. Tormek recommends startng with the SG grinding wheel.
In imy,opinion, neither diamond or CBN wheels should be used dry. In addition to keeping the toolsrust free, ACC solution prevents grinding dust, runs cooler, and keeps the grinding wheel much cleaner. How long weither diamond or CBN wheels last is largely determined by careful use (light pressure whn grinding).
The coarsest diamnd wheel is the DC-250. the coarsest regular wheel is the SB-250 blackstone. Neither of these wheels is designed for a fine, smooth cut. The finst cut diamond wheel is the DE-250. The finst cut regular wheel is the SJ-4000 Japanese wheel, followed by the SG-250 graded fine.
I suggest you check on the Tormek website (tormek.com). The xcellnt handbok is available ias a free download in sixteen different languages when you register your Tormek.
Keep us posted.
Ken
Thank you and have a good continuation of the evening.
Took me 10 mins to figure out how to post! If this isn't the right forum I'm sorry. This site is difficult to navigate
So I have an older Tormek Super Grind 2000. I want to replace the smaller rubber wheel with a CBC 80 grit, and keep the larger white dressing wheel for now. I just need a source for a wheel that someone could recommend. I want to make sure it will fit!
I'd send don't photos but it says they're too large.... Sheesh