Quote from: Jeff Farris on December 15, 2003, 08:55:09 PM
Planer blade sharpening is perhaps one of the most challenging jobs the TORMEK can do. However, when done properly the results are better than the majority of professional sharpening services throughout the country. Use this forum to discuss the difficulties and share your successes.
Hi, I have the Tormek, but have not yet invested in the planer blade jig as I am not confident of being able to get a good enough result. Your e-mail suggests that in fact, "if done properly" I should be able to get even better results than a professional. I guess the qualifier is the meaning of "properly"? Is this a very tricky job, and are there any particular techniques to use or problems of which to be mindful? I'd be interested to hear how anyone else has managed with their blades. FYI, I have a 12" European Startrite (3 blades 340mm x 30mm x 3mm, or 12 inch by 1 and 3/16 high by 1/8 thick).
The trickiest part is set up. Getting the angle set correctly and making sure the blade is parallel to the stone. It is not difficult, but must be done correctly to achieve the results I imagine you are looking for. If the set up is done correctly, the only mistake you can make is to stop too soon, you can never grind too far.
That's a fine planer you have there. I think you will be well satisfied with the Planer Blade Attachment if you currently are confident with your TORMEK.
Hi, the main reason I got the Tormek is to sharpen my Woodmaster 18 inch planer blades. Take your time on the set-up, don't stop grinding too soon and you won't be unhappy. The only practice I had before trying the planer jig was sharpening all the sissors in the house :D I think my blades are sharper than new! As you know the 18 inch blades have to be re-positioned. No problem at all!
Jerry
In a posting to the Yahoo Tormek group, Jeff made reference to removing the stops/limiters on the planer jig when planing wider blades. Can anyone expand on this a little? I have 12" wide blades. Also, what sort of pressure should be applied when grinding, as I can imagine this is a potentially critical factor to getting an even result across the blades.
Some of the contributors to the Yahoo group seemed to have given up on the Tormek when it comes to the planer jig, perhaps because it's a tricky operation? Has Jeff given any further though to producing the DVD for this jig's operation? Thanks. :)
Removing the limiter is not necessary for 12 blades, but personally, I would do it anyway. It is then easier to be sure you use the entire stone area over the entire blade area.
Pressure is not an issue. The set up procedure establishes a grinding limit. You simply grind until it no longer cuts (although you will still hear contact, it will not be cutting anymore).
DVD's on planer blade sharpening and the sharpening of turning tools are next summer's project.
I think the instructions for the planer jig do make the sharpening operation look more complicated than it really is. I have to admit when I first started to sharpen my blades I was a little intiminated. However my 18 inch blades are as good or better than new after my sharpening, the first time, with no problem. It would be one's on loss to give up on this jig. I'll be looking forward to the DVD, I'm sure it will make the set up easier to understand.
Jerry
Jeff,
Any chance you can make the "Sharpening Planer Blades" DVD a winter project? ;D
CP Scholz
My winter project is travelling coast-to-coast demonstrating the TORMEK at the Woodworking Shows. Summers are a bit slower and I can get some creative projects going. Plus, take a few days off since during show season Nancy and I work 7 days a week.
I've sharpened the two blades from my Dewalt 12" machine once. I think I did good. The other set is in the machine now (Pre Tormek - need two - one in use one to be sharpen - or sharp on stand-by). I Believe I was being a little heavy handed (I'm 6'2" at over 260# - lots of beef). As I leaned on the blade it caught the wheel and the whole thing recoiled and put a fair slice in two fingers (healed ok). So one piece of advice - go easy. I've only had my machine for a littel while and with the holiday rush I have done little shop upkeep. but one of these days I will do more. LOVE it thus far. ;D
I recently sharpened my first set of planner knives. It was easy enough but time consuming. That is probably good for the first time. The blades belonged to a friend. It looked like he used them to chop rebar. Another reason it took a long time.
The directions in the book were easy to follow. I had only one problem. The book says not to sharpen carbide blades. The DeWalt 12.5 inch planner has carbide inserts on the blades. This was the only part of the directions I didn't follow. I got good results. What is the problem with doing these blades. I did have to redress the wheel often. It seemed to smooth out quickly.
Waiting for my friend to put them to use to get a report.
Don
The DeWalt blades are indeed a laminated blade, but they are not carbide. The insert is a harder steel than the body. The softer body provides a "shock absorber", while the harder cutting surface has better edge retention.
The TORMEK stone will not cut carbide at all.
What about ceramic kitchen knives (like Boker brand). Will the tormek stone cut the ceramic material?
It depends on the condition of the blades when you started. If they were nicked and very dull, while two hours per blade is more than I would expect, it is not unusual for a "first timer".
If you see a black build up on the stone, use the grader. If you have a lot of blade to remove, you may have to do this several times.
Make sure that you have the depth of cut set correctly and that if you get to the stop but still have nicks, then reset the depth stop. I work in increments of .5mm which is one half turn of the thumbwheels.
Quote from: Jeff Farris on January 06, 2004, 07:55:04 PM
Removing the limiter is not necessary for 12 blades, but personally, I would do it anyway. It is then easier to be sure you use the entire stone area over the entire blade area.
Pressure is not an issue. The set up procedure establishes a grinding limit. You simply grind until it no longer cuts (although you will still hear contact, it will not be cutting anymore).
DVD's on planer blade sharpening and the sharpening of turning tools are next summer's project.
Jeff, did you ever make this DVD?
Yes to the one on woodturning tools, but nothing on planer blades yet.
Ah...l have your (excellent by the way) DVD on turning tools but I'm toying with buying the planar knife jig. Based on the posts it's obviously got a tricky setup. But I've read a fair few of them now and it seems that provided you take great care to get the blade correctly angled and parallel then you should be fine
Must say I really like the idea of becoming self sufficient of sharpening services so I can just tweak them whenever it suits me. I work a lot of rough sawn oak when I'm building furniture and its a killer on the edges
Long shot I know but don't spose you have a short term plan to do a planar knife jig vid?
Well, despite the absence of any response I went ahead and ordered the planar knife jig today. I did read the bulk of the threads in that category and what an interesting tale they tell.
Im really looking forward to shaving a week off the turnaround time for my blade sharpening service to deliver. Also to have the control to pop the knives out and touch up whenever I need to. It's just another rung on the self sufficiency ladder....can't wait
All that's needed now is a classic Jeff Farris tutorial covering off all the procedural cock ups I'm bound to fall down en route to developing proficiency in its use. Any plans Jeff?
Rob
As an aside to that post for anyone living in the UK, D&M tools are doing the planar knife jig for only £109 with free shipping at the moment. If you're in the market that's pretty good value