Hello from NZ,
I've owned a T8 for a couple of years, I've just bought 3 new CBN wheels and I have a selection of jigs, I really like what the T8 is capable of doing. I've been reading all sorts on this forum but my first time with my own question. I consistently have trouble sharpening a drill bit so that the trailing edge is lower than the cutting edge, I have 'played around' with the way I set the cutting edge with the lines on the drill bit holder, I use the magnifier, I've played around with the settings abit and I'm no longer sure which lines I should be using, I seem to get a better result by lining up on the angled lines. As for doing a secondary bevel (on a bit that I've fluked a correct grind) the secondary grind always ends up being out of parallel with the primary bevel .... any clues please and thank you in advance.
Welcome to the forum, Baldeagle. I have long considered the DBS-22 Tormek's most advanced jig. I believe it was also Torgny's last major project. A few suggestions:
I watch Alan Holtham's excellent fifteen minute video on the DBS-22 as a refresher before every time I use my DBS-22. Here is a link:
https://youtu.be/fSUa1iFUzkM?is=9l-uT6P72XUh8y_b
Start with bits in the 8 to 12mm diameter range. This range is large enough to see easily without having to use the magnifier and small enough to not require extensive grinding time. It will require some practice to become proficient. Do not become discouraged. If I can do it, you can certainly do it.
Keep us posted.
Ken
Tony,
At the Sharpening Handbook, I've cataloged 4 really good videos for using the DBS-22 to sharpen twist drills: https://sharpeninghandbook.info/GT-DrillBits-Twist.html.
Rich
Quote from: Ken S on September 02, 2026, 07:57:04 AMWelcome to the forum, Baldeagle. I have long considered the DBS-22 Tormek's most advanced jig. I believe it was also Torgny's last major project. A few suggestions:
I watch Alan Holtham's excellent fifteen minute video on the DBS-22 as a refresher before every time I use my DBS-22. Here is a link:
https://youtu.be/fSUa1iFUzkM?is=9l-uT6P72XUh8y_b
Start with bits in the 8 to 12mm diameter range. This range is large enough to see easily without having to use the magnifier and small enough to not require extensive grinding time. It will require some practice to become proficient. Do not become discouraged. If I can do it, you can certainly do it.
Keep us posted.
Ken
Thanks Ken, I'll have another session with that video, it appears that the cutting edge MUST be lined up, parallel to the horizontal line .... can you tell me what the other line is there for ?
Quote from: Baldeagle on September 03, 2026, 04:49:34 AMThanks Ken, I'll have another session with that video, it appears that the cutting edge MUST be lined up, parallel to the horizontal line .... can you tell me what the other line is there for ?
I was about to describe how I rotate the drills counterclockwise when they need a lot of grinding, so that the flutes "end up" lined up with the parallel lines. But before doing so, I thought to check the DBS-22 manual (https://tormek.com/download/18.681cbd68182e94c066a21e2d/1688042189465/InstructionDBS-22%20Drill%20Bit%20Sharpening%20Attachment.pdf). Lo and behold... That is exactly what the slanted lines are for. First mentioned on page 7 where it talks about lining the flutes up with the parallel lines, but refers readers to page 13 where it talks about the slanted lines for grinding "broken drill". I would say one does not need to rotate all the way to the slanted lines, depending on just how much more grinding is needed to eliminate chips in the flutes, things that are less than "broken" drills?
This makes me wonder about the wisdom of starting out lining up facets of just dull drills with the parallel lines. Why are we not rotating all drills just a little CCW from parallel so that when done, they are lines up with the parallel lines, as it says in the figure on page 13.
DBS-22 Slanted Lines for Broken Drills.png
Quote from: RickKrung on September 03, 2026, 04:24:06 PMI would say one does not need to rotate all the way to the slanted lines, depending
It will also depend on the flute geometry. The flutes vary slightly depending on the exact design of the drill, say for wood, brass, ductile steel carbon steel &etc, and the manufacturer.
I would suggest to start by lining up the drill to start with based on how much damage there is, broken vs severe chipping, then re-adjust as you get close to done with the primary bevel.
Quote from: John Hancock Sr on September 12, 2026, 04:10:09 AM...snip...
I would suggest to start by lining up the drill to start with based on how much damage there is, broken vs severe chipping, then re-adjust as you get close to done with the primary bevel.
Yes, this what I was trying to get at, although the latter part of John's point is a good one, you don't need to just keep grinding until the flutes line up, okay/good to re-adjust them when the flutes are cleaned up so the final grinding is at the angle provided when lined up.
I agree with John & Rick.