Tormek Community Forum

As per the subject, is there some neat trick I can apply to prevent the spacer to come off when I swap between grinding wheels?

Not really. It does tend to stick to the wheel when you take it off.

Yeah, annoying. When I remember to, which is often not, I move the wheel out enough to reach in and touch the spacer to separate it from the wheel and then finish removing the wheel.

Quote from: RickKrung on August 21, 2026, 03:08:32 PMYeah, annoying. When I remember to, which is often not, I move the wheel out enough to reach in and touch the spacer to separate it from the wheel and then finish removing the wheel.

Same.

Same as above... forget to every now and again... still annoying.

Same problem here

I have been closely following this forum since 2009. This posting is the first I have noticed on this issue in that time. The spacer has not changed. The shaft was changed to stainless steel many years ago., as was the conversion to the EZYlock.

Anyone who has experienced a frozen EXYlock (which includes me) would consider a sliding spacer as a minor nuisance. Noticing occasional frozen EZYlock posts over the years, I sent an email to support requesting advice. Support really went the extra mile. They ran tests and discovered that they could get the EZYlock to fail, IF there was no grease on the face of the spacer facing away from the grinding wheel. Putting a thin coating of grease on this face eliminated the failure. Problem solved.

How big of a problem is a sliding spacer? For the majority of Tormek's fifty years, there was only the SG wheel. Even today, with several wheels available, many users still choose to use only the SG, which remains the most versatile wheel. The wheels could be redesigned to incorporate built in spacers. That might solve the problem, but would increase the cost per wheel. How many users would be willing to pay the extra cost?

Ken

I believe there is a solution if you have a metal lathe. 

I asked Claude (an AI),

Capillary adhesion is experienced between the grindstone and the washer on a Tormek grinder. If the washer had most of the surface dished out (as if it were a bowl), would this surface adhesion become almost negligible?

The response was,

Yes, and quite significantly — for two separate reasons tied to the two mechanisms:

Capillary suction (Laplace pressure)
This force is roughly proportional to the contact area where the thin film exists. Dish out the center and that area shrinks to just the outer rim, so the suction force drops proportionally to how much area you've removed.

Stefan (viscous squeeze-film) adhesion
This is the bigger effect for a fast pull-apart, and it's the one that benefits most dramatically. The Stefan equation says resistance scales with the fourth power of the radial distance water has to travel to escape:

F ∝ R⁴ / h³

That R⁴ term exists because water at the center of a flat disk has to travel the full radius outward to escape when the plates squeeze together — a long, slow path. If you dish out the center, that water is sitting in an open reservoir with nowhere to build pressure — it's not trapped. Only the water in the thin rim band actually gets squeezed, and it only has to travel the width of that rim (not the full radius) to escape. Since the effective flow-path length drops so much, and the force depends on that length to the 4th power, the reduction is dramatic — often far more than proportional to the area removed.



Net effect: You wouldn't make it perfectly zero — there's still a wetted rim doing some work — but you'd cut both the suction and (especially) the "stuck fast" viscous resistance dramatically. This is essentially why things like vacuum-cup release valves, dimpled/grooved plates, and relief channels are common tricks for beating stiction — you're shortening the escape path for the trapped film rather than trying to eliminate the film itself.


You could test this premise using a 3d printed part. 

Well done, Rich! This should solve the problem, with the added bonus of being very cost effective. Just one modified spacer should suffice.

I like the 3D printed idea. The original pattern would print quickly and work even with smaller printers. Plus, the pattern could be easily modified to make spacers of different thicknesses. (I am thinking of adapting Norton 3X wheels with one inch thickness and one inch bore.) While everything is set up, I would suggest making up a few spares. They would be useful and inexpensive gifts for Tormek friends.

An alternative plan would be to modify a Tormek spacer. I purchased a couple as spare parts for projects several years ago, although the original spacer would also work. Dishing out a spacer would be an easy project for a home shop machinist of local machine shop.

Again, good thinking, Rich!

Ken

I designed and printed a part using ABS.  It seems to work quite well, though it may also be due to the bore for the 3D-printed part being a little tight on the spindle shaft.

The original one is depicted to the left, and the 3D-printed on on the right.


If you want to print one for yourself, it is available on the Sharpening Handbook:  https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-GrindstoneWasher.html.

Rick, it's a nice idea. My first thought was "let's print it with a Igus filament", although buying a roll just for one washer may slightly impair the financial equation ;)

Quick question : Aren't your concerned with the plastic washer wearing down with time ?

Quote from: tgbto on August 31, 2026, 02:00:54 PMRick, it's a nice idea. My first thought was "let's print it with a Igus filament", although buying a roll just for one washer may slightly impair the financial equation ;)

Quick question : Aren't your concerned with the plastic washer wearing down with time ?

When I looked at the stainless steel washer on the machine, it did not show significant wear.  So that is good. 

Regardless, I am not concerned as I can print another in less than an hour.  

I am not familiar with Igus filament, so I cannot comment on that.  I used ABS to print the ones I am using, but PETG may be a better choice if you are concerned about it wearing down too soon.

Of course, you could take your current one to a machinist friend and get it modified. 

I agree with the PETG suggestion. There are even some not-so-expensive low-friction ones.

I was not really afraid of having to print additional ones (I usually print a couple anyway, just in case). I was rather thinking of tiny plastic particles getting inside the bearings...

Quote from: tgbto on August 31, 2026, 02:00:54 PM.snip...
Quick question : Aren't your concerned with the plastic washer wearing down with time ?

Quote from: RichColvin on August 31, 2026, 03:08:07 PMWhen I looked at the stainless steel washer on the machine, it did not show significant wear.  So that is good.
...snip..
Of course, you could take your current one to a machinist friend and get it modified.

Stainless is a lot tougher than plastic.  I see "wear" indicated by the shiny ring that abuts the rubber bushing in the case. It isn't wearing down the stainless, just polishing it, but that could change for plastic, especially if not kept greased. But as Rich says, easy to print another. 

Taking a washer to a machine shop sounds nice, but it would be costly enough I think one should re-evaluate the whole situation.  Cutting a shallow concavity in that washer is not as easy as it is to say.  Easy if CNC is an option, but the time to set it up could be prohibitive for a one-off.

This seems like a solution looking for a problem.  Just put your finger on the washer as you slide the wheels off. 

Today's mail brought a package from Rich Colvin. Rich is one of only four forum members I have had the pleasure of meeting personally. (We both live in the Columbus, Ohio area. We are also both Tormek Ambassadors.) He is skilled in woodturning, machinist work and 3D printing and runs his Sharpening Handbook.

Rich and I have traded packages over the years. Today's package included several 3D printed spacers with the modified indenture. He also included three clever grinding wheel holders in both 200 and 250mm sizes.

Time will tell if there is a problem with wear with the spacers. In my case, in recent years my shop time has been very limited. I do not foresee much of a problem. If so, I may pursue alternative print media.

I have long recommended getting to know a local machinist and/or someone with a 3D printer. I have had several SVM jigs and my DBS-22 jig modified by machinists. These modifications were not expensive.

Rich's Sharpening Handbook includes several useful accessories for the Tormek. I suggest checking it out.

Ken

Thanks for all the great work done here!

Tonight I inaugurated the new axe jig, and just as I was swapping out the DF wheel for the DC to work a bit faster... the washer fell onto the workshop floor.

I hope we'll see an improved washer design at some point in the future!

Thumbs up to the local store I visited two weeks ago. It was really nice to see the museum and spend a few minutes with the very helpful staff. The "Sharpen Up" T-shirt really hit the spot!

Quote from: Ken S on August 26, 2026, 09:10:54 AMI have been closely following this forum since 2009. This posting is the first I have noticed on this issue in that time.

I've been using my Tormek since 2002 and have never experienced this problem.

QuoteAnyone who has experienced a frozen EXYlock (which includes me) would consider a sliding spacer as a minor nuisance. Noticing occasional frozen EZYlock posts over the years, I sent an email to support requesting advice. Support really went the extra mile. They ran tests and discovered that they could get the EZYlock to fail, IF there was no grease on the face of the spacer facing away from the grinding wheel. Putting a thin coating of grease on this face eliminated the failure. Problem solved.

Grease on the side of the spacer facing away from the grindstone would seem to help make the spacer stick to the machine instead of the grindstone, solving also that problem. I have never intentionally greased mine, but it seems it gets greasy from the grease intentionally placed on the main shaft. I will keep mine intentionally greased from now on because I also have experienced a frozen EzyLock a couple of times.

By the way, how did you free it? I used channel locks.

Oh, and by the way, even though the SG is the only grindstone I ever use, I remove it after every session. Those of us who do this are also susceptible to this issue with the spacer coming off.

Quote from: Herman Trivilino on September 20, 2026, 11:45:44 PM... Oh, and by the way, even though the SG is the only grindstone I ever use, I remove it after every session. Those of us who do this are also susceptible to this issue with the spacer coming off ...

Herman,
Sorry to hijack this thread but this is what I was thinking of in my own thread from yesterday. Would you care to let me know why you remove the wheel after every session?
I only use the SG stone to but I never remove it. I would like to know why others do so.
Danny

I don't remove it. Every once in a while, I just turn it a bit so the EZYlock nut untightens a bit, and leave it there. Then retighten the nut with the label facing upward for the next session.

The reason I remove the grindstone between sessions is to prevent rust. The grindstone soaks up water and remains wet for hours if not days.

You can read about my adventures with a rusty main shaft here (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,929.msg2133.html#msg2133).

There may be other reasons, too.

Ok, thanks for the answers.
On my T8, I always empty the water after a session but never remove the stone.
The shaft is Stainless and I (try to!) lubricate it every year. Not had any issue so far.
Yes, the stone stays wet/damp for days.
I suppose it also depends on the humidity levels of the workshop and local environment as well.
Danny

The grindstone stays wet, all the way to the center where it makes contact with the main shaft and the spacer. As the grindstone dries out it leaves behind a residue that acts like an adhesive. (Think about a paint brush that you cleaned and left to dry -- the bristles are temporarily stuck together until you bend them back a forth a few times.) This will make it harder to remove the grindstone for maintenance and may contribute to that problem where the EzyLock gets stuck.

Herman is our forum expert on frozen grinding wheels. I was a late comer and did not arrive until 2009, when the shaft on my T7 was the pre EZYlock straight stainless version. I did encounter the the extended dampness problem when I returned my SJ-250, which I thought had dried, to its cardboard box. The box was not ruined, however, it was worse for the wear. After trying several options, I decided on printing the 3D plan from Rich Colvin's Sharpening Handbook. They come in two sizes (250 mm and 200mm). They are non absorbant, joinable, and provide safe, ventilated storage.

Ken

Geez! I just hang my grindstone on a 3-inch screw that sticks out of a 2x6 attached to the wall. I know it can't hurt to remove the grindstone between sessions, and I think it helps with the overall health and maintenance of the Tormek. There's grease on the main shaft and water in the grindstone. I know water and grease don't mix, but leaving them in contact with each other causes parts to stick and can make it more difficult to remove the grindstone. And you do need to remove the grindstone occasionally, even if you're not changing grindstones, to grease the main shaft and its bearings.

If you pay attention you'll notice that it takes a lot more water to fill the trough when the grindstone is dry. Even if I haven't used it for a couple of days it still takes less water to fill the trough when I do go to use it. In the humid climate of Houston. I wonder if it would be different if I lived in an arid climate.

Quote from: Herman Trivilino on September 21, 2026, 04:16:49 PMThe reason I remove the grindstone between sessions is to prevent rust. The grindstone soaks up water and remains wet for hours if not days.

You can read about my adventures with a rusty main shaft here

 (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,929.msg2133.html#msg2133)

Same. I bought a T8 second hand and it had the "stainless" shaft. The SG had rusted on and could not be removed. Alwas remove the wheel between sessions.

Quote from: John Hancock Sr on September 24, 2026, 03:33:31 AMI bought a T8 second hand and it had the "stainless" shaft. The SG had rusted on and could not be removed. Always remove the wheel between sessions.

I'm curious, John. Where was the rust? Where the grindstone makes contact with the main shaft? Did the rust penetrate into the grindstone?

Quote from: Herman Trivilino on September 24, 2026, 03:50:47 PMI'm curious, John. Where was the rust? Where the grindstone makes contact with the main shaft? Did the rust penetrate into the grindstone?

The rust was under the wheel. It did not extend into or past the bearing. The wheel was completely stuck to the shaft It was about 15 years old when I bought it and I suspect that it had never been removed. It was in a liquidation auction for a business. The rust did not penetrate into the wheel. There is a collar inside the hole which is part of the wheel, which stopped it. It only rusted where the wheel contacted the shaft. The bearings were also quite worn.

In hindsight I could have used vinegar to dissolve the rust and remove the wheel but it cracked when I tried to remove it.