In 2009 i started sharpening knives with a set of Paper Wheels, bought from a German dealer, the only European source at the time.
For me the Paper Wheels are an addition to sharpening by hand and sharpening with the Tormek.
I also often combine Tormek and Paper Wheels, where the Tormek is used to do the heavy lifting and create the initial edge, and i then proceed with Paper Wheels for subsequent refining steps.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zDxGgHyZ/Paper-Wheelsset-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
This was my first set-up, with the Paper Wheels mounted on my old Creusen bench grinder.
The sharpening Wheel is on the right in each picture, and the deburring Wheel on the left.
No guards on the machine, which is used turned around so the Wheels spin away from me.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7PKZ2J5v/Paper-Wheelsop-Creusen-3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zDxGgHy1/Paper-Wheelsop-Creusen-2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Side view of the slotted Wheel with it's warning label:
(https://i.postimg.cc/dQ5VyZhc/Paper-Wheelsop-Creusen-6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/h42tdQf5/Paper-Wheelsop-Creusen-4.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The Wheels are made from industrially compressed cardboard, and are used on an ordinary bench grinder.
A standard set consists of 2 Wheels: a sharpening Wheel with a glued-on coating of silicon carbide grit (which does the actual sharpening) plus a coating of wax on top of the grit (which protects your edges from overheating during sharpening)
The second Wheel removes the burr and/or does the polishing of the edge, for which you need to charge the Wheel surface for each knife by holding a small block of fine white aluminium oxide for one or two seconds against the spinning surface.
Instead of cooling wax this Wheel uses several slots cut in it's surface, which work like a strong fan and thus protect your edge from overheating during burr removal and/or polishing.
A few years later i also bought several "naked" Wheels from another dealer in England and charged these with various diamond compounds & powders, first to be able to sharpen ceramic knives and later various high carbide steel knives.
The combination of speed together with built-in overheating protection and overall good results is why i still use my Paper Wheels to this very day.
After a short learning curve practising on several cheap knives i did this second hand Spyderco Military in CPM-D2 steel, and it became one of many quality knives i sharpened on my Wheels over the years.
It had some blade play (fixed it), some discoloration on the blade (left that) and it wasn't quite sharp (fixed that with my Wheels)
The knife was part of my edc for several years.
(https://i.ibb.co/yPMbr8R/Spyderco-Military-CPM-D2-edge-pics-10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DW6SZ7b)
(https://i.ibb.co/RpzggV8/Spyderco-Military-CPM-D2-edge-pics-9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hRDggt0)
(https://i.ibb.co/qnnMph1/Spyderco-Military-CPM-D2-edge-pics-8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/X44Zt6J)
(https://i.ibb.co/SJmmpN1/Spyderco-Military-CPM-D2-edge-pics-7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pnKKp2s)
(https://i.ibb.co/pLhH1jw/Spyderco-Military-CPM-D2-edge-pics-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fxD3XdF)
(https://i.ibb.co/JphLGXH/Spyderco-Military-CPM-D2-edge-pics-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/09wN6Pr)
(https://i.ibb.co/b7RgQjS/Spyderco-Military-CPM-D2-edge-pics-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kM6g5VR)
(https://i.ibb.co/4dGqnS6/Spyderco-Military-CPM-D2-edge-pics-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Wtwh4zb)
(https://i.ibb.co/X5pcx2W/Spyderco-Military-CPM-D2-edge-pics-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DMk0fV1)
(https://i.ibb.co/R20sGr2/Spyderco-Military-CPM-D2-edge-pics-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xhjBK9h)
I could never get paper wheels to work for me, even with very precise angle controls à la Wootz. So gave up.
Interesting here Kwakster, are you free handing on the paper wheels? I see no bars to utilise using jigs?
What's your process with these wheels please?
Everything i do on the Paper Wheels is completely freehand, no jigs, no bars, no lasers.
I spent quite a bit of time developing my hand-eye coordination, and so far that has been working well for me.
What process do you mean btw ?
By process I mean are you using them for full sharpening or just honing after grinding on something else?
Both for full sharpenings as well as for deburring & (semi-) polishing after creating an initial edge on (for instance) my Tormek T7.
Some old pictures dating back to 2011, showing my vintage Puma 6383 Buddy made in 1972.
The first set of pictures show the knife as it was before sharpening, still with it's original factory edge which was very obtuse and couldn't cut anything well.
(https://i.ibb.co/zJk0Fm3/Puma-Buddy1972028.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JQhMqcY)
(https://i.ibb.co/59LKZ1Y/Puma-Buddy1972022.jpg) (https://ibb.co/thDLRHZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/mXFBGhG/Puma-Buddy1972019.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MG5hsPs)
(https://i.ibb.co/Lg3SsCw/Puma-Buddy1972017.jpg) (https://ibb.co/947ndqX)
(https://i.ibb.co/w0M2BXc/Puma-Buddy1972007.jpg) (https://ibb.co/r74XFSd)
(https://i.ibb.co/RYWtsJk/Puma-Buddy1972003.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wB18P2F)
(https://i.ibb.co/HpG1Y3v/Puma-Buddy1972002.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BKTdjFD)
The picturess below show the knife after reharpening the edge on my first set of (standard) Paper Wheels, using the silicon carbide grit Paper Wheel for reprofiling/sharpening, and the slotted Paper Wheel charged with the white aluminium oxide for burr removal & semi-polishing.
(https://i.ibb.co/56XTmtL/Puma-Buddysnede009.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yXm0tGq)
(https://i.ibb.co/HddTv84/Puma-Buddysnede008.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sHH9SYR)
(https://i.ibb.co/MPbF2QR/Puma-Buddysnede007.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0YkHDvf)
(https://i.ibb.co/zGCptn3/Puma-Buddysnede006.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jgqmj6C)
(https://i.ibb.co/DLYzQnT/Puma-Buddysnede005.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JCqmHPg)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZVjQv75/Puma-Buddysnede004.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rmjBqNY)
(https://i.ibb.co/2jm8Znp/Puma-Buddysnede001.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nDZ3PgK)
Specs:
Overall length: 9.6 inch (24,3 cm)
Blade length: 4.8 inch (12,2 cm)
Blade thickness: 3,1 mm
Steel: New Stainless Super Keen Cutting Steel
Hardness: 57-59 HRC
Handle material: Sambar Stag
Custom Sponaugle 154CM droppoint hunter Loveless style from a professional hunter.
The knife has been in use for some time, and it was kept more or less sharp by the owner with the help of a Spyderco Sharpmaker.
However, due to the original edge angle being somewhat too large (35/40-ish near the heel developing into 35/30-ish towards the point), and also being a bit uneven keeping it in working condition was becoming a nuisance, and the point becoming rounded was not helping either.
Before sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/sjjLkJR/GEDC6468.jpg) (https://ibb.co/v112gvq)
(https://i.ibb.co/cbrNh8q/GEDC6467.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yhQ8Fk2)
(https://i.ibb.co/Zdh1DTS/GEDC6466.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4WjgrN2)
(https://i.ibb.co/h8JtSj8/GEDC6465.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Bs5S9xs)
(https://i.ibb.co/w6NhJ6t/GEDC6464.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ggMZvgY)
(https://i.ibb.co/SmWd6p8/GEDC6463.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pKGR1p8)
(https://i.ibb.co/Q6q8pDx/GEDC6462.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SK1Q5fZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/dMRSFk4/GEDC6461.jpg) (https://ibb.co/V9sdRMY)
After sharpening.
A new very slightly convex edge of almost exactly 30 degrees inclusive was made with just a standard Paper Wheel, after which i removed the burr on my Tormek leather wheel (the edge keeps a little more bite that way, which works better for hunting knives imo)
The new edge now transitions smoothly into the ricasso and there's a new point too.
(https://i.ibb.co/6r9ZLbx/GEDC6482.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5Gp9wvy)
(https://i.ibb.co/mD54Qxr/GEDC6479.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p0jdCm6)
(https://i.ibb.co/ThZxdDb/GEDC6477.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4Ncn3wY)
(https://i.ibb.co/W2cFp1D/GEDC6476.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FDBJqts)
(https://i.ibb.co/YN7qqhf/GEDC6475.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9p9CCWy)
(https://i.ibb.co/xzKxmrF/GEDC6474.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RQGRhJj)
(https://i.ibb.co/RgX4CbG/GEDC6472.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wdnrKgZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/YfCh4x6/GEDC6471.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xzk6KNy)
My experience has been that:
- The paper wheels make a very shiny edge, but
- The Tormek leather stropping wheel provides a sharper and longer lasting edge.
I've not seen any analysis on this, so I am wondering what others are finding.
The edge on the Takamura R2 gyuto in the clip below was done on Paper Wheels with diamond compounds.
According to the professional Chef who owns the knife he could work with this edge for about 2 months in his commercial kitchen.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ID9KZW0d9ss
His rank in the kitchen is Chef-de-Partie (just below head Chef and sous-Chef), and he and his team are responsible for prep cutting all the meats, vegetables, and patisserie ingredients.
Basically all he does is cutting food, and he is one of my prime sources of detailed feedback regarding my edges.
The knife had already been used for two months in the commercial kitchen and it was time for it's first resharpening, which i did on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound and then deburred on a second Paper Wheel with 0.25 micron diamond compound.
The idea was to make an edge that would do both slicing & pushcutting well, and also to remove as little steel as possible from the fine and thin R2/SG2 blade @ 63-64 HRC.
The new edge measures ~ 20 degrees inclusive (~10 degrees per side) and can whittle a chest hair from root-to-tip at about 4 centimeters from the point of holding, and after a few test cuts into a old piece of beechwood cutting board.
I took these pics with an old Ipad and actually wanted to erase them again as being not good enough until i enlarged the last picture twice.
At first i thought i saw small dirt spots on the new bevel, but those tiny white specks were actually the sliced off peaks of the micro-dot structure on the inside of the flimsy plastic blade protector sleeve.
(https://i.ibb.co/7bnL65y/image-12.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XV7MvgJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/VthqBM9/image-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kxrScqB)
(https://i.ibb.co/zGtYZgh/image-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/86Qp9wD)
(https://i.ibb.co/qjVFCww/image-7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QQtjkGG)
(https://i.ibb.co/6JZL8n1/image-8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/x8sdYCf)
(https://i.ibb.co/82xVzR0/image-9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Bj6R47t)
(https://i.ibb.co/KWsc3jS/image-10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Yhd4q7w)
(https://i.ibb.co/zRMBDDP/image-11.jpg) (https://ibb.co/r6jzNN5)
(https://i.ibb.co/cJ38zKh/image-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7vCp7xt)
(https://i.ibb.co/tKH0D8g/image-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1Q0CT81)
(https://i.ibb.co/rkwR4wG/image-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LSZXnZz)
(https://i.ibb.co/dfJsxD3/image-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4Fgw3pD)
(https://i.ibb.co/fFp0zTm/image.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Khqyp8C)
(https://i.ibb.co/H2Q8n3t/image-13.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mB7W6g9)
A Chinese Ganzo 704 as i received it from Hong Kong:
(https://i.ibb.co/3BZrBwf/GEDC6898.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WgJxgQD)
(https://i.ibb.co/XjD8rWx/GEDC6897.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RYNykgT)
(https://i.ibb.co/wJN5tsX/GEDC6893.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hXR30fj)
(https://i.ibb.co/nDhd9Sv/GEDC6890.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RCLrfWm)
A very nice knife for the money (i paid about 17 US dollars including shipping from Hong Kong to the Netherlands), but with quite an obtuse edge angle of about 35-40 (ish) degrees inclusive and also a bit blunt not a very good cutter.
On the blade it says 440C stainless steel, but it's more than likely it's Chinese cousin 9Cr13MoV.
Reprofiled with a standard Paper Wheel with silicon carbide grit to 30 degrees inclusive, refined it just a bit with a second Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and finally removed the tiny burr with a third Paper Wheel coated with 1 micron diamond compound.
It cuts hair above the back of my hand and can slice single layer toilet paper.
(https://i.ibb.co/rw8wf0c/GEDC6906.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6W9WJw1)
(https://i.ibb.co/84B1Trz/GEDC6903.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vvB0g3s)
(https://i.ibb.co/724qx29/GEDC6902.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qk5vLkZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/bLKjfWB/GEDC6901.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FJDkPxw)
(https://i.ibb.co/nPMwz5s/GEDC6900.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TWMwmFB)
(https://i.ibb.co/txRDJhG/GEDC6899.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VQ6TqN1)
An older one, a user custom Jens Anso from a Dutch knifeforum member after a tune-up by a Dutch knifemaker.
Part of the tune-up was a two-step stonewash treatment of the RWL34 blade, which unavoidably also removed the original edge.
Before sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/LrQT0Hh/GEDC6325.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tzZ0HFP)
(https://i.ibb.co/bdBWX3N/GEDC6323.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DKCVQbw)
(https://i.ibb.co/yXzqmMC/GEDC6322.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6mKFcpS)
(https://i.ibb.co/2vwhtcJ/GEDC6321.jpg) (https://ibb.co/x1yLjzZ)
After sharpening.
I put on a new edge using a standard Paper Wheel with silicon carbide grit, refined it with a second Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond paste, and finally removed the very small burr on the Tormek leather wheel with some 1 micron diamond compound
This leaves an edge that looks almost polished, but has more bite than when finished with the polishing Paper Wheel using standard aluminum oxide.
(https://i.ibb.co/RDKCb6q/GEDC6331.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZMrhXg0)
(https://i.ibb.co/gVPrncC/GEDC6335.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KwL518H)
(https://i.ibb.co/tQNjwTg/GEDC6329.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ydMvmct)
(https://i.ibb.co/58Dy3vz/GEDC6330.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7Wc5DVT)
(https://i.ibb.co/wz3YZBq/GEDC6327.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3CGk54b)
(https://i.ibb.co/tq8H5v0/GEDC6328.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jyg8FQC)
A while ago i reprofiled & sharpened this Ontario Afghan Bush in (probably) 5160 steel for a Dutch forum member, who when he received it tested it quite rigorously to see how the the knife would hold up with it's new edge.
The pictures show the knife with it's new edge measuring 35 degrees inclusive, a 15 micron diamond compound Paper Wheel finish, and a treetopping sharpness.
(https://i.ibb.co/k5XNbvP/GEDC7836.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YPhHnwV)
(https://i.ibb.co/rv3cqWK/GEDC7835.jpg) (https://ibb.co/M9fGKXy)
(https://i.ibb.co/r5FnR41/GEDC7841.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7rj7d26)
(https://i.ibb.co/NVjMwK8/GEDC7842.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dW2RnDd)
(https://i.ibb.co/zPLHFDZ/GEDC7839.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VMhpx5T)
(https://i.ibb.co/Yh52jN2/GEDC7840.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SBkNv6N)
This was the mail i got from him when he was done testing:
(translated from Dutch)
Hereby i send you the results of the batonning test: my arm hurts and the knife just laughs at me.
I started with batonning through some standard firewood, which didn't cause any problems.
Then i proceeded to baton right through a hardwood pole with a big burl (?) in it (with a lot of effort from my side)
I then replaced the baton with a hard rubber hammer for a bit more comfort and hitting power, and with this i managed to drive the edge about half an inch crossgrain into another piece of tropical hardwood.
After this i cleaned the knife, and the edge would still pushcut through paper.
I almost forgot to mention that i also put the knife sideways with the point on a wooden block and gave it about 20 hard whacks with the rubber hammer on both sides of the knife.
Then i tested the point strength by stabbing it into hardwood and breaking it free sideways.
I think the knife already has endured more than it will ever have to in real life.
After all this i could still shave the hair on my leg on skin level, and after a bit of stropping it could treetop again.
I have been interested in adding a paper wheel to my deburring part of my sharpening business and your thread is pushing me even further into it. I have a couple of questions if you don't mind...
1. how long do you think it typically take you to get a finish your happy with (deburring only)
2. Is the a lot of dust particles flying around during use?
I ask these questions because I am a mobile knife sharpener and picked the Tormek so I don't have to wear PPE in the van while sharpening.
Your images, by the way, are amazing and the video with the grape was an eye opener.
Thanks
If the sharpening itself was done right, just deburring generally takes only a couple of passes on a slotted wheel.
(Semi-) polishing an edge will take longer: with standard steel types it can be mere minutes, with steels that have a high vanadium carbide content it can take hours.
Plus for this category you need diamond compounds. as the aluminium oxide isn't hard enough to cut & shape these carbides.
For most standard stainless knives i prefer the original slotted Wheel used with the block of white aluminium oxide, and for higher end knives (especially the ones with lots of (vanadium) carbides in the apex) i prefer a Wheel with fine diamond compound.
Regarding dust production: when new a standard slotted Wheel used with the block of white aluminium oxide will produce some airborne dust (both from the deburring process itself as well as some cardboard fibers that will come loose from the surface.
This will however diminish over time once the Wheel has been used for a while and becomes a bit blackened.
Then the dust production drops off sharply.
So especially in the beginning i would wear a good dust mask, later you will probably not need one anymore.
When sharpening/deburring with diamond compounds a slight amount of debris (a combination of diamond particles, oil, and steel particles) is slung off the Wheel during the process, gets airborne for only a fraction of a second, and then attaches itself to the wall behind my grinder. (see pictures)
Nowadays i put a piece of cardboard against the wall and exchange that from time to time.
Because no debris remains airborne (it is an ever so slightly "wet" process) i do not need a mask.
I do however always wear a quality pair of safety glasses (this is important)
This is my basement workplace:
(https://i.ibb.co/mkMyjm9/GE-DIGITAL-CAMERA-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4z5Sqc8)
(https://i.ibb.co/KcsRfd8K/GE-DIGITAL-CAMERA-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tw2kvg1L)
(https://i.ibb.co/cckSKq4F/GE-DIGITAL-CAMERA-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7JjdxhsW)
(https://i.ibb.co/XfRrX9BT/GE-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/My0xnbTL)
Spyderco Paramilitary 2 in CTS-20CP steel.
The previous owner tried to sharpen it on an Edge-Pro, which sadly resulted in quite uneven bevels, several chips along the edge, and a piece of unremoved burr.
I removed the apex of the old edge by cutting a few times straight into a silicon carbide stone, and then resharpened it to an almost exact 30 degrees inclusive on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound, then removed the tiny burr with a second Paper Wheel with 1 micron diamond compound.
Although i couldn't get both bevels exactly even in width, the new edge is now treetopping sharp without chips or burrs.
I call this a bling & bite finish, as to the casual observer it may look like a mirror finish (diamond compounds cut very clean), but when inspected up close with a loupe you can see a fine scratch pattern perpendicular to the edge that still provides for enough bite for most EDC tasks.
(https://i.ibb.co/YRG97nK/GEDC8314.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8KV3DvR)
(https://i.ibb.co/hMZGS03/GEDC8251.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qnWHv6T)
(https://i.ibb.co/rxwGgBK/GEDC8324.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hBmRkGx)
(https://i.ibb.co/txSjwkS/GEDC8322.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VQdn0rd)
(https://i.ibb.co/wBCbHCQ/GEDC8321.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k50rn0D)
(https://i.ibb.co/Sdt9bFG/GEDC8318.jpg) (https://ibb.co/X37v1cM)
(https://i.ibb.co/4ZKDLqM/GEDC8313.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XZjdPQp)
(https://i.ibb.co/dBkPpmV/GEDC8312.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qBmNgJc)
(https://i.ibb.co/Ry2BtWX/GEDC8311.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zJs7Cw3)
(https://i.ibb.co/RyBjHbN/GEDC8310.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8cdY8sb)
Also an older one: a DPX Hest folder with D2 steel blade from a Dutch forum member.
This one was reprofiled to an ever so slight convex edge of between 25 and 30 degrees inclusive on a standard Paper Wheel with silicon carbide grit, then refined on a second Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond paste, and finally i removed the very small burr on the Tormek leather wheel.
(https://i.ibb.co/Dwb8NRX/GEDC6266.jpg) (https://ibb.co/44fYcVy)
(https://i.ibb.co/KqB2GgY/GEDC6265.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6PGHZS2)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZznL2kX/GEDC6261.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m5LDNMT)
(https://i.ibb.co/kS7crNK/GEDC6260.jpg) (https://ibb.co/G56P1z7)
Close-up of the 15 micron finish:
(https://i.ibb.co/SvqLXBp/GEDC6264.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nkhWsjS)
Another earlier one, this time a user Spyderco Military in S90V steel from a Dutch forum member who requested a little more bling.
First i used a standard Paper Wheel with silicon carbide grit, followed by a second Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond paste as well as a third Paper Wheel with 6 micron diamond paste, after which the tiny burr was removed on the Tormek leather wheel.
It's not a true mirror edge, as with the magnifying glass in my Victorinox SwissChamp i can still see fine scratching, but with the naked eye it's close.
Sharpness is hairwhittling (both to and from the root) and it can also slice single layer toiletpaper with ease.
(https://i.ibb.co/s3f3dfw/GEDC6099.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XJQJrQs)
(https://i.ibb.co/fqtBLXy/GEDC6095.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BcjdFfQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/kx5vS2r/GEDC6094.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JKmgsjb)
(https://i.ibb.co/P171pM9/GEDC6089.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3SDSXvM)
(https://i.ibb.co/jWswNqM/GEDC6088.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GtNM6G2)
(https://i.ibb.co/rHyhQDs/GEDC6087.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cQT9y4L)
A Strider SMF with S110V blade from a Dutch forum member.
According to my Tormek angle gauge the old edge measured ~ 40 degrees inclusive from the heel to half an inch before the tip where it changed into 45 degrees inclusive.
The owner uses this knife mostly to cut various kinds of green wood & twigs in horticulture, and had already tried his hand at reprofiling the edge himself with a DMT Diafold.
Together we came to the conclusion that the edge could do with a full reprofiling, as well as with a finer edge finish to better suit his specific purposes.
BTW: the owner also contacted Duane Dwyer by mail, among other things to ask him about the hardness of this S110V blade, and according to Duane it measures 61 HRC.
This was the knife before sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/VpMYG5g/GEDC7751.jpg) (https://ibb.co/S7VwgGt)
(https://i.ibb.co/S0mFHjM/GEDC7745.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Y8dHJC1)
(https://i.ibb.co/PQvxDZC/GEDC7743.jpg) (https://ibb.co/L5XSNzp)
(https://i.ibb.co/fvPZWLQ/GEDC7741.jpg) (https://ibb.co/py9NT5n)
(https://i.ibb.co/Z2N4Q8Q/GEDC7739.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kmMbL8L)
(https://i.ibb.co/KK9V1mD/GEDC7736.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wcKpvY7)
After reprofiling & sharpening.
The new edge angle came out at ~ 32 degrees inclusive along the entire edge, and it can treetop armhair and slice single ply toilet paper.
Probably due to having the flu at the moment my hands didn't do exactly what i wanted them to do, and as a result i didn't manage to get both bevels completely symmetrical.
Grit progression: a Paper Wheel with 220 grit SiC for reprofiling, a second Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound for refining, and a third Paper Wheel with 0.25 micron diamond compound for removing the tiny burr.
(https://i.ibb.co/PTPthH7/GEDC7779.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6vTNPC3)
(https://i.ibb.co/QCXBddV/GEDC7777.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k9Mn11T)
(https://i.ibb.co/WBpGyRB/GEDC7774.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5sxG8Js)
(https://i.ibb.co/Q8wBHyj/GEDC7773.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hXz5d31)
(https://i.ibb.co/XJC57M5/GEDC7772.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cTr86V8)
(https://i.ibb.co/g3fFWws/GEDC7760.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DtvgMk3)
(https://i.ibb.co/KW1h46k/GEDC7757.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QM5QS9R)
Thanks for the reply. The spyderco looks amazing.
Some time ago i did this rather large Strider fixed blade in S30V steel for a Dutch forum member.
According to my Tormek angle gauge the factory edge measured 50 to 55 degrees inclusive and it wasn't very sharp either.
Grit progression: reprofiled on a standard Paper Wheel with 220 grit SiC, refined it a little with a second Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and finally removed the tiny burr with a third Paper Wheel coated with 0,25 micron diamond compound.
The new & slightly convex edge measures around 35/36 degrees inclusive, and can both slice single layer toilet paper and treetop the hairs on the back of my hand.
(https://i.ibb.co/VT5NkKh/GEDC7235.jpg) (https://ibb.co/njt0KWV)
(https://i.ibb.co/6F8YPZx/GEDC7238.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZxSd8JP)
(https://i.ibb.co/9Hh02Df/GEDC7234.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JjqT21b)
(https://i.ibb.co/9H2KVBD/GEDC7233.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PG4X9JL)
(https://i.ibb.co/dKP3JHt/GEDC7226.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Svt17Zc)
(https://i.ibb.co/8MTMYN3/GEDC7225.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2qmqZW2)
(https://i.ibb.co/XCckSh2/GEDC7224.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6WjJg3n)
(https://i.ibb.co/47QVxXk/GEDC7223.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FKPDtyp)
A while ago i sharpened this Buck Hartsook in S30V steel for a Dutch forum member:
(https://i.ibb.co/7zTGVzh/GEDC7724.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mBYHtBp)
(https://i.ibb.co/Y3nMwb8/GEDC7723.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QfSRtXn)
(https://i.ibb.co/sJHX4Cd/GEDC7719.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vvYMWh6)
The edge was done on Paper Wheels with diamond compounds exclusively, and the new & slightly convex edge measures ~30 degrees inclusive.
Remarkably useful little knives with well hardened S30V steel.
This brand new Endura ZDP-189 sadly had a less than optimal factory edge, and since this beautiful steel deserves better i reprofiled & sharpened it myself.
My guess is that these knives are belt sharpened and then have the burr stropped of on a buffer.
On this knife however it seemed like the buffer ran out of cutting compound (or the sharpener just did a sloppy job), as through my loupe i could see remains of a burr almost along the entire edge. (some of it is partly visible in picture 2)
Due to this the sharpness was of course severely lacking.
I also measured the edge angle to be 35 degrees inclusive, which i think is a bit too large for a folding knife in ZDP-189 steel.
Before sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/8MPXx2v/GEDC8629.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kKqMD0b)
(https://i.ibb.co/1f7Kg0v/GEDC8625.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zhQbMmn)
(https://i.ibb.co/bLPLLqd/GEDC8622.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CvzvvN0)
(https://i.ibb.co/4g5QHFx/GEDC8621.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5xf7P1V)
First i removed the old apex by cutting a few times straight into a silicon carbide stone, then reprofiled the edge to a slightly convex ~ 25 degrees inclusive angle with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and then removed the tiny burr with a second Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 micron diamond compound.
This leaves the scratch pattern created by the 15 micron diamond particles intact as much as possible, creating an edge that with the naked eye almost looks like a mirror, but which has the bite of a coarser edge.
I call this a "bling & bite" finish, and i have found it to work very well in EDC use on harder high carbide steel types.
It's also quite difficult to show correctly in pictures, as the lens of my cheap camera has a tendency to show more of the scratch pattern than can be seen in reality with the naked eye.
With the reduced edge angle & the much finer edge finish the knife will not only cut in a completely different league, it can now also be kept sharp on the 30 degrees slots of a Spyderco Sharpmaker or Lansky Turnbox.
After sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/mtRBKbj/GEDC8636.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Cvwtymc)
(https://i.ibb.co/gZgrwq4/GEDC8635.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qY1D9qJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/T4kBm6V/GEDC8634.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7nXJ2Pw)
(https://i.ibb.co/KjqRhsG/GEDC8633.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jvMBfw5)
(https://i.ibb.co/g9XHgy8/GEDC8632.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RbMZH2K)
(https://i.ibb.co/09sN8rw/GEDC8631.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NNThQK4)
(https://i.ibb.co/v3GVDHk/GEDC8630.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0CSmQcr)
A few weeks ago a knife collector asked me if i could sharpen the false edge on a Gerber Applegate Fairbairn folder.
On this knife the blade is completely shrouded by the handle when closed, so there is no risk of injury while carrying it.
The owner also wanted the new bevels to be a bit shiny.
This older YouTube clip by Nutnfancy showcases this mod:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oR984DMcQ1o
This was the knife before sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/47LNsWW/GEDC8707.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nbyk3rr)
(https://i.ibb.co/KFtjZyB/GEDC8706.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QrWFBmh)
(https://i.ibb.co/hBCDq2H/GEDC8703.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bs7zfNL)
(https://i.ibb.co/J7zS03w/GEDC8702.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Z8hbt2p)
(https://i.ibb.co/5YsnFRc/GEDC8701.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XyF38CJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/TmLQLBt/GEDC8700.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xJHnHS6)
(https://i.ibb.co/tJ3tcQZ/GEDC8699.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LZvW6YQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/Mgycsz1/GEDC8698.jpg) (https://ibb.co/S6DtPkm)
And the result.
Ground the new bevels with a Rubber Wheel coated with 230 grit diamond powder, then refined all bevels with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and finally removed the tiny burr remnants with the Tormek leather wheel & some 1 micron diamond compound.
The edges measure 35 degrees inclusive and are treetopping sharp.
(https://i.ibb.co/3C1Xymn/GEDC8731.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HH7vDTj)
(https://i.ibb.co/xgQByVc/GEDC8736.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rpJzgnL)
(https://i.ibb.co/HTBxCZP/GEDC8728.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JjmyqZp)
(https://i.ibb.co/VqvjL9B/GEDC8727.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0GfDn2J)
(https://i.ibb.co/CvN0gFh/GEDC8723.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RPZHfWz)
(https://i.ibb.co/8NJ0Cxs/GEDC8721.jpg) (https://ibb.co/34w73Fd)
(https://i.ibb.co/MM28jF1/GEDC8716.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NZV1kcN)
(https://i.ibb.co/hMsBSTB/GEDC8714.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g7ySxcS)
The factory edge of this Spyderco PM2 in S110V steel was barely shaving armhair on skinlevel, and according to my Tormek WM200 the edge angle was near 35 degrees inclusive.
The old apex was removed by cutting several times straight into a silicon carbide stone, and then i used 4 different Paper Wheels coated with diamond compounds (15, 6, 3, and 1 micron) to create & refine the new edge.
Normally i don't take high carbide steel types this far, but in this case i wanted to see how the S110V steel would do.
The new & ever so slightly convex edge measures a hair below 30 degrees inclusive, and can easily whittle a normal chest hair towards the point along the entire edge.
Thinner ones will sever immediately upon touching.
My cheap camera is not really able to show full details, but at least it gives some impression.
(https://i.ibb.co/52FBzWQ/GEDC8819.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TrLmnBQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/0VPdKNZ/GEDC8818.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k6YWJn0)
(https://i.ibb.co/FBXp6SP/GEDC8817.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cNwqJGm)
(https://i.ibb.co/D4L3W81/GEDC8814.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hsCp9Zg)
(https://i.ibb.co/pZgmyMg/GEDC8808.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jGdpRQd)
(https://i.ibb.co/V9wxY1N/GEDC8806.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QQDkvgc)
(https://i.ibb.co/99fJS1W/GEDC8805.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BV7mFQB)
(https://i.ibb.co/znTJJzJ/GEDC8804.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dWwggRg)
A Belgian member of the Dutch forum who's also into sharpening sent me a USB-camera as a gift, and although i still have lots to learn about what it can do i managed to take a couple of pics of the current edge on the PM2 in S110V steel:
(https://i.ibb.co/s9XRvXH/Still0023.png) (https://ibb.co/b5GmgGJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/zGqHrvv/Still0019.png) (https://ibb.co/jgnZTXX)
Here's one i did a few days ago, a Spyderco Paramilitary 2 in Elmax steel.
The factory edge had some light brown discoloration near the tip on one side, traces of some unknown black stuff that couldn't even be removed with acetone (visible in pic 1 & 3), and it could also barely cut copypaper.
This is how it looked before sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/ctNyJys/GEDC8419.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mtHRJRP)
(https://i.ibb.co/CsvvQjx/GEDC8418.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DgkkQB3)
(https://i.ibb.co/T8QHWLG/GEDC8414.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WyrcVtX)
First i removed the apex of the old edge by cutting a few times in a silicon carbide stone, then resharpened it with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, followed by removing the tiny burr with a second Paper Wheel coated with 1 micron diamond compound.
This time i also polished the bevels a bit more with the same Wheel, just to see how the Elmax would do.
According to my Tormek angle gauge the new edge measures 30 degrees inclusive, can slice single ply toilet paper and easily whittle the hairs on the back of my hand from heel to tip.
(https://i.ibb.co/4tbDgMD/GEDC8512.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7C3TNVT)
(https://i.ibb.co/SK2MH6J/GEDC8508.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FB9ychn)
(https://i.ibb.co/2c9Ftv0/GEDC8504.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KVP5q2c)
(https://i.ibb.co/mNL2yqd/GEDC8501.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sW0N1wc)
(https://i.ibb.co/PwBJt4k/GEDC8499.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2gXR5PJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/127t4WV/GEDC8500.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4NKn0ry)
(https://i.ibb.co/nMdf8pX/GEDC8505.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m5ZtFpn)
(https://i.ibb.co/mSHk07V/GEDC8495.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N7L5rzd)
(https://i.ibb.co/59PCxmp/GEDC8498.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZJ0v154)
(https://i.ibb.co/bJJHsz4/GEDC8492.jpg) (https://ibb.co/X88y7Sn)
Did these chisel ground edges a a few years ago with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and then stropped the burr on the other side off on hard leather with some 1 micron diamond compound.
Both knives were quite blunt, one even more than the other.
The knives are owned by two Dutch Special Forces guys who used & sharpened them while on tour in Afghanistan, and they wanted the new edges to have a little bling.
(https://i.ibb.co/kqy65CH/CRKT-Chisel-edges-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GCJ3nSx)
(https://i.ibb.co/SdQPq1z/CRKT-Chisel-edges-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gPv3sXx)
(https://i.ibb.co/61XhnyH/CRKT-Chisel-edges-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZY2sLfB)
(https://i.ibb.co/qkcqJmb/CRKT-Chisel-edges-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cDZfY2z)
(https://i.ibb.co/phfgBRt/CRKT-Chisel-edges-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LNxMXJL)
(https://i.ibb.co/Kygws0k/CRKT-Chisel-edges-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kcT1DHf)
Below you see 3 different viewing angles of the edge i recently put on a brand new Sebenza 25 (which had a subpar factory edge)
The owner of the knife took the pictures with a very expensive Leica camera to capture the different looks this edge type can have when seen from different angles.
For obvious reasons i named this a bling & bite finish, and it performs very well on especially high (vanadium) carbide steels.
I first reprofiled the factory edge from 35 degrees inclusive to 30 degrees inclusive with a Rubber Wheel coated with 230 grit diamond powder, then refined it with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and lastly removed the tiny burr with a second Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 micron diamond compound.
The new and ever so slightly convex edge could treetop the hair on the back of my hand (even whittle it a bit) and easily slice single ply toilet paper.
And this was after i tested the edge with a few firm cuts into the edge of a piece of laminated desktop.
(https://i.ibb.co/C60XM83/Sebenza-edge-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m0zYXTV)
(https://i.ibb.co/vmjLD06/Sebenza-edge-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K7rVmTp)
(https://i.ibb.co/GddXZYR/Sebenza-edge-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6yy2K9F)
I own several vintage Gerbers in M2 steel, both outdoor & kitchen models, and this Durendal slicer model from the '60's does duty in our kitchen.
Opening all kinds of paper & plastic food packages, slicing bags with espresso beans, cutting up larger fruits like melons & pineapples, slicing bread loafs and hamburger buns without crumbling, cutting sausages, etc.
Not every day, but at least several times a week.
I bought this Gerber about 2 years ago on E-Bay completely blunt, so i reprofiled & sharpened it with a SiC grit Paper Wheel, then refined the edge with 15 micron diamond compound on a second Paper Wheel, and then again with 6 micron diamond compound on a third Paper Wheel.
The tiny burr was removed with a fourth Paper Wheel coated with 0,25 micron diamond compound.
The idea was to get something of a semi-polish that would protect the exposed M2 edge better against corrosion issues during kitchen use, while still having some degree of bite.
The knife was then used for about 2 years in our kitchen, and when not in use stored on a magnet strip on our kitchen wall.
After those 2 years the edge only had a few very minor dings/flat spots in it (in the tiny belly area), but it could still shave the hair on the back of my hand on skin level quite well with about 90-95 % of the edge.
When cutting tomatoes however the edge tended to slide a bit over the skin before it started to cut.
The main reason for this kind of edgeholding is of course the fact that most of the edge on a slicer like this never touches a cutting board, only the belly area does, but the M2 steel performed quite admirably in my book.
A few weeks ago i resharpened the edge, this time only with 15 micron diamond compound, then deburred with 0,25 micron diamond compound, as i want to try the knife with some more bite.
Will have to find out if there will be corrosion issues or not.
So far i've only used it on food packaging (both paper & plastic, no fruit or other things yet), but here are a few pics how the knife & edge look now.
The edge feels sticky and is still treetopping sharp.
(https://i.ibb.co/bKRMTbM/GEDC9595.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d5JwFmw)
(https://i.ibb.co/9VC51qX/GEDC9592.jpg) (https://ibb.co/X3vRKzB)
(https://i.ibb.co/QfNQmVf/GEDC9591.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HVz4gyV)
(https://i.ibb.co/K2K2hz6/GEDC9590.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9bZbg3n)
(https://i.ibb.co/YjttCv2/GEDC9588.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WKcchSn)
(https://i.ibb.co/3B0hHjS/GEDC9587.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FgB7ty8)
(https://i.ibb.co/dtxgGQr/GEDC9586.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bFDJzrP)
(https://i.ibb.co/Z298Y4v/GEDC9584.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NTRjmDf)
(https://i.ibb.co/Wg565zf/GEDC9582.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m6TGTy4)
(https://i.ibb.co/zbVc79L/GEDC9580.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nfM2ndV)
(https://i.ibb.co/5X3zmsf/GEDC9579.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wZqbVpx)
(https://i.ibb.co/hVQ2KSt/GEDC9576.jpg) (https://ibb.co/L1j9C32)
Specs:
Blade steel: hard chromed M2 steel
Hardness: 60-62 HRC
Handle material: cast on aluminum, chromed.
Overall length: 11.61 inch (29,5 cm)
Blade length: 6.5 inch (16,5 cm)
Blade thickness: 1,36 mm in front of the handle tapering to 0,84 mm close to the point
Thickness behind the edge: 0,5 mm
Edge angle: +/- 30 degrees inclusive, slightly convex
Did this user Spyderco PM2 in S30V steel for a customer who had seen pictures online of another PM2 in S110V steel i did earlier, and which are also somewhere in this thread.
The man wanted the exact same full mirror edge he had seen on the other knife, it had to be 30 degrees inclusive, and it also had to have a guaranteed hair whittling sharpness.
Of course i told him that this S30V is not the best steel for a full mirror edge, but it was what he wanted, :)
The old edge had a few flat spots and a bit of a rounded point from use, but nothing serious.
Total time i spent on this knife was one hour, in a succession of Paper Wheels with 15, 6, 3, and 1 micron diamond compound.
As a comparison: the same full mirror edge on that PM2 in S110V steel the man saw online took me two hours.
Most of this time is going into the many visual checks i do in between with my Victorinox loupe under bright light, not into the actual sharpening.
These are the quick pics i also sent to the customer, and they can be clicked twice for a bit more detail.
The owner was satisfied btw.
(https://i.ibb.co/p2HtxDv/GEDC9655.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sjT02Sv)
(https://i.ibb.co/cJMWM6d/GEDC9651.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mJ1n197)
(https://i.ibb.co/RpQb9mF/GEDC9654.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hR29yj6)
(https://i.ibb.co/k9RF0mb/GEDC9652.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TbV5RWj)
Hinderer XM-18 Slicer grind in S35VN steel.
According to my Tormek angle gauge the factory edge angle measured between 45 and 50 degrees inclusive, while the thickness of the steel just behind that edge went from 0.7 mm at the heel to 0.6 mm at the tip.
The knife is going to be used as a hunting folder, and the owner had 2 wishes: if possible no visually wide bevels, plus he wanted to be able to maintain the new edge on a Spyderco Sharpmaker.
Before sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/K0w552k/GEDC7446.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YRZNNcM)
(https://i.ibb.co/PTmXBk9/GEDC7445.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n3gdhpn)
(https://i.ibb.co/nnR1Xyf/GEDC7443.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JyCpYT2)
(https://i.ibb.co/6yKywZS/GEDC7442.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Bfhf3PJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/wrB46nY/GEDC7440.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YTPhj5b)
(https://i.ibb.co/YQtM8t3/GEDC7439.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kBhf0hx)
Edge reprofiled to an almost exact 35 degrees inclusive with a Paper Wheel coated with 220 grit SiC, after which the burr was removed with a second Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 micron diamond compound.
The new edge is what i would call sticky sharp.
After sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/zJ6GcFZ/GEDC7460.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q5JkGCp)
(https://i.ibb.co/5nzfkVm/GEDC7457.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cCp7wd0)
(https://i.ibb.co/QdPxHgZ/GEDC7454.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8crQxCJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/ncPR14t/GEDC7452.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wWcYQ8j)
(https://i.ibb.co/SdH0D7G/GEDC7451.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZYvKR17)
(https://i.ibb.co/nCkJV1m/GEDC7450.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dgKY3pM)
This special version of the Spyderco Paramilitary 2 in CPM-M4 steel & carbon fiber is in use with a Dutch knife forum member.
A small fraction of the tip had broken off and the apex sustained some damage (see pic 3).
This is how the knife looked before sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/gd6r0Kx/GEDC0477.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kJMGLCt)
(https://i.ibb.co/hM8y3ZQ/GEDC0473.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MhNsFGw)
(https://i.ibb.co/6wrSz3X/GEDC0471.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g9m8N54)
(https://i.ibb.co/0hFzvCX/GEDC0469.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m6XPg9B)
(https://i.ibb.co/1npgV6V/GEDC0464.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Sx1jTrT)
(https://i.ibb.co/r7PsXnd/GEDC0462.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Lkw5s4N)
First i ground the old apex flat on the Tormek Blackstone until all damage in the apex was gone & there was a new point.
Then i made a new edge with 15 micron diamond compound on a Paper Wheel, which was then refined with 6, 3, and 1 micron diamond compound on dedicated Paper Wheels to a full mirror.
The new edge measures 30 degrees inclusive and is hairwhittling sharp.
After sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/RzNRHcN/GEDC0591.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MMfFN7f)
(https://i.ibb.co/zhzSn4r/GEDC0595.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1fk9vmL)
(https://i.ibb.co/gtTPgJ4/GEDC0594.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WByPKfV)
(https://i.ibb.co/dBFymM0/GEDC0616.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qBKwJjM)
(https://i.ibb.co/Yd4m4fz/GEDC0612.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8xnqnPW)
(https://i.ibb.co/TM65dfw/GEDC0590.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VYR851L)
(https://i.ibb.co/Yy88zbC/GEDC0613.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D8kkxLJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/vjFxTZW/GEDC0603.jpg) (https://ibb.co/S3jXMRg)
(https://i.ibb.co/vdZZXq6/GEDC0599.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QHrrDQ3)
(https://i.ibb.co/KLg5sbz/GEDC0606.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qW8Dg7F)
(https://i.ibb.co/MkN0f4r/GEDC0607.jpg) (https://ibb.co/23K4SQx)img][/url]
Dustar Model 1 Arad 67 Commemorative combat knife from a collector.
The factory "edge" was very rough and also still had a burr so thick that i could lift the entire knife from the table by hooking it with my finger nail.
Edge angle was ~ 45 degrees inclusive which i left intact as the customer did not want wider bevels.
After grinding the apex flat on the Tormek Blackstone the edge was resharpened on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound then deburred with a second Paper Wheel with 3 micron diamond compound, an the new edge can just treetop the hairs on the back of my hand.
Probably the most wear resistant D2 steel i have sharpened so far.
(https://i.ibb.co/y04rXLj/GEDC1337.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BLn9t8M)
(https://i.ibb.co/XjWYS72/GEDC1336.jpg) (https://ibb.co/34TRBpr)
(https://i.ibb.co/C5jzMP1/GEDC1341.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HDcVxhF)
(https://i.ibb.co/gzPpNSf/GEDC1340.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RzBmf3s)
This vintage Al Mar Applegate Fairbairn dagger from a display collection had factory edges which were rather coarse, had a few flat spots, and a flattened point.
Since the "R" from Rex Applegate's signature was already quite close to the ~ 50 degrees inclusive factory edge i chose not to reprofile but instead just polish the existing bevels a bit with successively 15.0 micron, 3.0 micron, and 1.0 micron diamond compound on dedicated Paper Wheels.
Both new edges can shave the hair on the back of my hand on skin level.
After sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/QMkMMbs/GEDC1433.jpg) (https://ibb.co/x6Y66CV)
(https://i.ibb.co/fGRH9TV/GEDC1431.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CsdQ6Sp)
(https://i.ibb.co/Twx2N1N/GEDC1432.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FhL3dXd)
(https://i.ibb.co/YDrtDz9/GEDC1447.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SQLKQhT)
(https://i.ibb.co/QFDtZpY/GEDC1438.jpg) (https://ibb.co/27ZHwWc)
(https://i.ibb.co/3rfJFQR/GEDC1437.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mDvxygN)
(https://i.ibb.co/fqP2SKy/GEDC1444.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vVKHBrT)
(https://i.ibb.co/gwGRL50/GEDC1443.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CvqH3kj)
(https://i.ibb.co/6gGHvnS/GEDC1442.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4PC8smL)
(https://i.ibb.co/74w7q1n/GEDC1439.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5FNqPRr)
Another PM2 in S110V.
The new edge was done on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound, and then refined with 6.0 micron, 3.0 micron, and 1.0 micron diamond compound, all on dedicated Paper Wheels.
The apex is keen enough to whittle several curls in a row on one of my chest hairs while holding the hair at the root end only.
After sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/W6q2d2r/GEDC9338.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2ymkLkz)
(https://i.ibb.co/W0B6jQQ/GEDC9330.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qCmdVzz)
(https://i.ibb.co/BtKzctR/GEDC9334.jpg) (https://ibb.co/t4PmQ45)
(https://i.ibb.co/yN59kRH/GEDC9370.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7SVfpzs)
(https://i.ibb.co/8BRpxwr/GEDC9363.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RSMm6K3)
(https://i.ibb.co/0yvTh2r/GEDC9360.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MkQrMS7)
(https://i.ibb.co/m9zHLzw/GEDC9357.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GWPVKPL)
(https://i.ibb.co/kx3z1cV/GEDC9344.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hyXrf8x)
(https://i.ibb.co/WG63dwZ/GEDC9343.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k5xyrfj)
The owner of this Maxamet PM2 had given his knife a forced patina treatment, and besides coming out a bit uneven the acid had also completely eaten away the factory apex as well as the very tip of the blade.
To say that the knife was completely blunt would have been an understatement.
The request was to give the knife a new toothy edge with a lot of bite while making it as sharp as possible.
Before sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/LZ9KSTR/GEDC1760.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mchpJnT)
(https://i.ibb.co/wYhd7Yw/GEDC1755.jpg) (https://ibb.co/V3YLx3Q)
(https://i.ibb.co/7CtWv1f/GEDC1759.jpg) (https://ibb.co/B32ZLCp)
(https://i.ibb.co/qM0XpGk/GEDC1754.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GvsBRwc)
(https://i.ibb.co/F84wKtn/GEDC1758.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vL4PH8D)
(https://i.ibb.co/ggd10fX/GEDC1753.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zfFc3BL)
(https://i.ibb.co/rpjFDNt/GEDC1757.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PWLFq0Y)
(https://i.ibb.co/XpYWjd3/GEDC1752.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jGJ8bxW)
(https://i.ibb.co/R7RwdJN/GEDC1756.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fQjwLT9)
(https://i.ibb.co/5sdyVQ4/GEDC1751.jpg) (https://ibb.co/r5gSJB0)
Flattened the acid damaged "apex" some more on a 3000 grit diamond plate so i could start with fresh steel, then made a new edge on a Rubber Wheel coated with ~ 230 grit diamond powder & wax, then deburred on a Paper Wheel with 1.0 micron diamond paste & oil.
The new edge is ever so slightly convex, the new apex fits almost exactly in the 30 degree inclusive slot of my Tormek WM200 Angle Master, plus it can whittle one of my chest hairs at about 5.5 centimeters from the point of holding.
(i don't own a BESS tester)
The somewhat "fuzzy" shoulders of the new edge show how deep the acid has eaten away into the sides of the blade in some area's.
After sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/86XyX6h/GEDC1772.jpg) (https://ibb.co/18bCb8S)
(https://i.ibb.co/SvJ8BTK/GEDC1766.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q1xfpGR)
(https://i.ibb.co/d4v10r7/GEDC1771.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9H0z9NG)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZMBdX08/GEDC1765.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6WHYwkP)
(https://i.ibb.co/t3Sh65h/GEDC1769.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g6G78C7)
(https://i.ibb.co/xsMxY0G/GEDC1763.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CtnR6Zv)
(https://i.ibb.co/BwyfFp4/GEDC1767.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6NHyLMv)
(https://i.ibb.co/mhvm6Kw/GEDC1762.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dkbSGvq)
(https://i.ibb.co/gDMyFBb/GEDC1761.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MRDn53y)
Italian made A.G.A Campolin Maltese stiletto from a collector.
The knife was recently bought brand new from a foreign shop, but it came with quite a lot of blade play, a very rough ~55 degrees inclusive "edge" with a big burr still attached to it, and no point at all.
Also both sides of the blade aren't mirror images of each other, with a center ridge that is off a bit on one side.
Anyway, especially the lack of a point bothered the owner, the bad edge came in second, and fixing the blade play will probably be a job for another day.
This is how the knife looked before resharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/KXy0XgB/image-7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VtBjtGb)
(https://i.ibb.co/3vGRcYJ/image-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NrQTKn4)
(https://i.ibb.co/BGDpknD/image-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1MVgczV)
(https://i.ibb.co/1M1bJ9B/image-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C6gWsn4)
(https://i.ibb.co/QbwZJn1/image-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f1wbXtP)
(https://i.ibb.co/prvNJb2/image-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k6gzQ5K)
(https://i.ibb.co/Z6Jj3d1/image-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bg30x1R)
(https://i.ibb.co/61Rp0Kn/image.jpg) (https://ibb.co/txMNp0m)
And how the knife looks now.
While keeping the edge angle about the same so the bevels would not widen too much per owner's request, i resharpened the main edge completely and the bayonet grind only superficially to come to a sharp point with a 15 micron diamond compound Paper Wheel, then cleaned up the bevels a bit and removed the tiny burr with a 1.0 micron diamond compound Paper Wheel.
The edge angle again measures ~55 degrees inclusive, yet the new apex is just sharp enough to shave the hair on the back of my hand a bit on skin level.
(https://i.ibb.co/DMvSrR2/image-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dpVzm5Y)
(https://i.ibb.co/Rcf5cdd/image-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Fz2PzCC)
(https://i.ibb.co/2v2qzr5/image-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CbdBjyW)
(https://i.ibb.co/cbvXgDQ/image-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1snJv8T)
(https://i.ibb.co/pZXn0z4/image-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HYgXFzG)
(https://i.ibb.co/pfy6kvq/image.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JvQWSRZ)
The first owner of this small Sebenza apparently thought it a good idea to use the knife for sharpening practice in his new Wicked Edge.
The outcome made him sell the knife for a measly 150 Euro's to owner number two, who sent it to me with the request to tidy things up a bit and give it a bit of a shiny edge.
Below is what the knife looked like when i received it, still with it's very rough and partly unapexed "edge", and with an edge angle of ~40 degrees inclusive at the straight part of the edge, changing into ~45 degrees inclusive from belly to point.
(https://i.ibb.co/5hWCnZ7w/image-11.png) (https://ibb.co/tpMnxRdF)
(https://i.ibb.co/8D2SgJY9/image-10.png) (https://ibb.co/FbJj49Hz)
(https://i.ibb.co/4R0bSDv2/image-9.png) (https://ibb.co/PGV2WbXM)
(https://i.ibb.co/kVmSGRkD/image-8.png) (https://ibb.co/4w1VF69S)
(https://i.ibb.co/zVGJ0sDj/image-7.png) (https://ibb.co/HTndk731)
(https://i.ibb.co/W4VNcGz0/image-6.png) (https://ibb.co/MxByRZ1f)
(https://i.ibb.co/dw5BqfBn/image-5.png) (https://ibb.co/Q3K9RJ9s)
(https://i.ibb.co/6cLvLCNv/image-4.png) (https://ibb.co/7xLgLmbg)
(https://i.ibb.co/zkgYj1b/image-3.png) (https://ibb.co/wvqX3TC)
(https://i.ibb.co/006m1Zh/image-2.png) (https://ibb.co/jCQbqGg)
(https://i.ibb.co/SwpVY6ZW/image-1.png) (https://ibb.co/YBGfnNVY)
(https://i.ibb.co/Nn3093XM/image.png) (https://ibb.co/n80X70TF)
After reprofiling & sharpening on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound, then deburring and polishing it a bit with a second Paper Wheel coated with 1.0 micron diamond compound.
The new edge is a bit convex, and measures ~30 degrees inclusive on the straight part of the edge, changing into ~35 degrees inclusive from belly to point.
This to avoid widening the bevels there too much, as this blade is relatively thick behind the edge in that area.
The last picture shows a small facet at the heel which has an entirely different angle, so i could not remove it without making things worse.
Visually it's not perfect yet treetopping sharp, and the owner was happy.
(https://i.ibb.co/6X8vGvx/GEDC2596.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5KkYCYy)
(https://i.ibb.co/5Td79Yx/GEDC2597.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sjhBP5J)
(https://i.ibb.co/Tgpzf8W/GEDC2600.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3CGt3NR)
(https://i.ibb.co/KwHDtmJ/GEDC2594.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9tjhxG7)
(https://i.ibb.co/J73xLPD/GEDC2599.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WyVD91m)
(https://i.ibb.co/X3kKn0Y/GEDC2593.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vQvTNyX)
photo link code (https://imgbb.com/)
User LH Sebenza Micarta with it's blade made from Devin Thomas stainless basketweave damascus (AEB-L and 304)
Reprofiled & sharpened the old slightly convex edge with it's apex @ ~40 degrees inclusive into a new slightly convex edge with an apex @ ~30 degrees inclusive on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound, then removed the extremely fine burr on a piece of copypaper with a dab of 0.25 micron diamond paste.
The new apex is reverse chest hair whittling sharp and the new point is also quite close to being centered again.
To my functioning eye the bevels look near-mirror like, but the camera sees a bit blotchy scratch pattern due to the different layers in the damascus steel.
Before:
(https://i.ibb.co/rGRs0C1/GEDC3105.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tMTXK7W)
(https://i.ibb.co/V9t8zPz/GEDC3109.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MSsLt3t)
(https://i.ibb.co/7KnwVyh/GEDC3104.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Fz5SJ7p)
(https://i.ibb.co/LxfgsT5/GEDC3108.jpg) (https://ibb.co/v38dMNY)
(https://i.ibb.co/1JhC4bH/GEDC3103.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WpqrRsS)
(https://i.ibb.co/V9XMknH/GEDC3107.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9gRydKw)
(https://i.ibb.co/f1SwMsg/GEDC3102.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HF287jS)
(https://i.ibb.co/6nQB6yb/GEDC3106.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YRgZvN8)
After:
(https://i.ibb.co/sCNtdVD/GEDC3130.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JqGCwsb)
(https://i.ibb.co/Hxv2MMq/GEDC3127.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wwHLbb4)
(https://i.ibb.co/K0V4Q84/GEDC3122.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RvQrMJr)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZzgZkkr/GEDC3126.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fdNcPPW)
(https://i.ibb.co/27bDSwx/GEDC3121.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qMZtCzK)
(https://i.ibb.co/B2k8Wmk/GEDC3125.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Dfd3cNd)
(https://i.ibb.co/Z2fq4Fx/GEDC3120.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RjgRrsc)
(https://i.ibb.co/DRcHkKV/GEDC3124.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2kV1PKn)
(https://i.ibb.co/xShYBdg/GEDC3119.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Rp2Nsd6)
(https://i.ibb.co/41bSJBh/GEDC3123.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tL023yV)
(https://i.ibb.co/BKgDGGf/GEDC3118.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gFD1ddr)
A small black ceramic backlock folder without any markings (Böker ?) i did in 2013.
This well made knife had practically no edge and no point to speak of when i received it, and even opening mail with it was difficult.
I used the Tormek Blackstone graded to around 1000 grit for freehand reprofiling, followed by 3 Paper Wheels coated with 15, 6.0 and 3.0 micron diamond compounds for refining & polishing.
The new edge fits in the 30 degrees inclusive slot on my Tormek angle gauge, is slightly convex, and can shave the hair on my leg in both directions.
(https://i.ibb.co/zhR0NMX/GEDC6379.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Gv2bF6W)
(https://i.ibb.co/xgmHkC1/GEDC6376.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3Ffz3rp)
(https://i.ibb.co/HB7Vy65/GEDC6375.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xXhDbWx)
(https://i.ibb.co/Cvy943R/GEDC6370.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ftWNZzj)
(https://i.ibb.co/C6DMDGS/GEDC6369.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XDM3MRG)
(https://i.ibb.co/DQPZyFC/GEDC6368.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FzkFM1w)
(https://i.ibb.co/HHjVz54/GEDC6367.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nLFbcxm)
Specs:
Length open: 4.72 inches (12,0 cm)
Length closed: 2.76 inches (7,5 cm)
Blade material: black zirconium oxide
Blade length: 1.57 inches (4,5 cm)
Blade thickness: 2,0 mm
Handle material: Ivory Micarta & Nickel Silver bolsters
Weight: 61 grams
A niece of mine is an avid amateur Chef (but not yet a knife afi), and this black ceramic knife (a rebranded Kyocera) is one of her favorites in the kitchen, as due to the tougher blade material the edges can be made thinner and thus the knife cuts better than a white ceramic version.
Longtime use however (not always on a suitable cutting board) plus storing it unprotected in a drawer between a bunch of steel bladed knives had blunted the edge to a point next to unusable, complete with quite a lot of (micro) chips and a broken tip.
This is the knife as it was when i received it.
(when you click the pictures 2 x you can see the chips clearly)
(https://i.ibb.co/RpN5DsK/GEDC6143.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HDCJHby)
(https://i.ibb.co/g96wZWq/GEDC6142.jpg) (https://ibb.co/F3nJ4YZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/H2CQCwf/GEDC6141.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sPCrCxd)
(https://i.ibb.co/t8hgpr3/GEDC6140.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wMLVhmY)
(https://i.ibb.co/KKv7YSs/GEDC6139.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5KHvdwj)
(https://i.ibb.co/M9QgHpq/GEDC6138.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6NLySb6)
(https://i.ibb.co/S09bPXj/GEDC6137.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5vfm6W0)
This is the knife after sharpening.
I reprofiled the rather bad factory edge to an ever so slight convex edge of ~ 25 degrees inclusive, and the sharpness is just hairwhittling (only towards the root, not to the point)
It easily slices single layer toiletpaper (torn apart 3-layered version) and a tomato of course.
Removing the chips and setting the new bevel was done with a Tormek T7, refining & convexing with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and semi-polishing with a second Paper Wheel coated with 6 micron diamond compound.
(https://i.ibb.co/MN4zWt7/GEDC6156.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3hqxGjc)
(https://i.ibb.co/K7mMXHR/GEDC6155.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TRrVk5p)
(https://i.ibb.co/dLzbTrd/GEDC6154.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hZtX6yP)
(https://i.ibb.co/CMZLf6p/GEDC6152.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NmPRMrg)
(https://i.ibb.co/NFcg7ZB/GEDC6147.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WHmNsgJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/VC2Lc3S/GEDC6146.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YdpNFbk)
(https://i.ibb.co/xh69Bsx/GEDC6145.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PxgXPYq)
(https://i.ibb.co/pw7nTtr/GEDC6144.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nmGRyH8)
Specs:
Overall length: 11.0 inch (28,0 cm)
Blade length: 5.8 inch (14,8 cm)
Blade thickness: 1,84 mm
Blade type: black ceramic / saber-hollow
Thickness behind the edge: 0,4 mm
The first clip shows the slicing of a piece of standard 3-layered toilet paper, for the second clip i peel off 1 layer and slice the remaining 2 layers, and the third clip shows the slicing of just the remaining single layer of toilet paper:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ubg_drYHoKE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUkKfwGFogY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSkxPA9BK8E
Slicing a tomato:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3-A0SMcIbw
The owner of this Sebenza 25 bought the knife brand new through an official dealer in the Netherlands, but although he was and is still very pleased with the knife itself, he soon found that the factory edge didn't cut too well.
He tried to improve things with the help of a Spyderco Sharpmaker and a leather strop loaded with some green compound, but to no avail.
So he sent the knife to me, and the first thing i did was to measure the edge angle.
According to my Tormek Angle Gauge it measured 50 degrees inclusive on the straight part of the edge, going up to 55 degrees inclusive from the belly to the point.(!)
This is how the knife looked before sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/bFQj6d4/GEDC7058.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2SW0FKz)
(https://i.ibb.co/Wx90tLR/GEDC7057.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f1R9vsT)
(https://i.ibb.co/DCkD5v9/GEDC7056.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1qKf8Pr)
(https://i.ibb.co/B3pGQsL/GEDC7055.jpg) (https://ibb.co/V91xzBV)
(https://i.ibb.co/CpyYkH9/GEDC7054.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7xDZw1p)
(https://i.ibb.co/MRPsJWJ/GEDC7053.jpg) (https://ibb.co/y8gXxGx)
First i removed the apex of the old edge by cutting a few times lightly into an old silicon carbide stone, after which i reprofiled it freehand on my Tormek SB-250 Blackstone to an even 30 degrees inclusive.
This was followed by a Paper Wheel with 220 grit SiC to smoothen the grindlines made by the Tormek, then refined with a second Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and finally removed the burr with a third Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 diamond compound. (this leaves the 15 micron scratch pattern intact as much as possible to preserve bite)
The resulting edge treetops the hair on the back of my hand, can slice single-ply toilet paper, and survives a few cuts into my laminated testblock without any visible damage (checked under bright light with the loupe in my Victorinox SwissChamp)
This is how the knife looks after sharpening:
(https://i.ibb.co/kGpT78V/GEDC7075.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XW9PQsf)
(https://i.ibb.co/SvwnxY5/GEDC7074.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PCGhYXF)
(https://i.ibb.co/0sdGSJH/GEDC7073.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rd1wSyD)
(https://i.ibb.co/6WG3CW1/GEDC7069.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XC6hRC3)
(https://i.ibb.co/V2RybRV/GEDC7072.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BqbDvbL)
(https://i.ibb.co/z6ZTRS3/GEDC7068.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Z2xp8hQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/jH96Nh2/GEDC7065.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XVf2QXg)
(https://i.ibb.co/tzzJ2kK/GEDC7064.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8bb7xTs)
(https://i.ibb.co/QmDJgNT/GEDC7061.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Jk3c17G)
(https://i.ibb.co/XSY4hp5/GEDC7060.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Yp0Wz8d)
Wootz/Vadim testing heat build-up in the edge when using Paper Wheels with diamond compound:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvMISROgs_c
He never told me this in our e-mail conversations, but i recently found that he mentions me by name in the on-screen text, 8)
Vintage Al Mar Denali mid-backlock folding knife with hollow ground blade from the 1980's and made in Japan. (probably by Moki)
The cocobolo handle is inlayed with a gold shield picturing a fighter plane and the text "United States Navy Fighter Weapons School".
The 1986 movie "Top Gun" with Tom Cruise and Kelly McGillis was partly filmed on the grounds of this elite school for US Navy pilots.
Bernard Levine thinks this version with the gold shield was a special edition, not standard production.
The original edge measured about 35 degrees inclusive and wasn't really sharp, so i changed the angle to 30 degrees inclusive with a treetopping sharp bling & bite finish.
(https://i.ibb.co/wfF3fXK/GEDC9166.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2T1mTQj)
(https://i.ibb.co/fGqyYFNX/GEDC9163.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6JrTRwty)
(https://i.ibb.co/fY7zj79W/GEDC9155.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N6zdczrq)
(https://i.ibb.co/xtdTVQN9/GEDC9153.jpg) (https://ibb.co/67LC65k9)
(https://i.ibb.co/B2m3mZpL/GEDC9154.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JjNtN71n)
(https://i.ibb.co/SXLsgGfz/GEDC9150.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tMdm6FL9)
(https://i.ibb.co/5xMSWHdc/GEDC9160.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pr0MvFgX)
(https://i.ibb.co/ccmTfCqX/GEDC9149.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Z6ZT4Y91)
Specs:
Length open: 17,3 cm
Length closed: 10,0 cm
Blade length: 7,5 cm
Blade thickness: 3,0 mm
Steel: Masahiro RS30 stainless steel
Hardness: 57-58 HRC (?)
Handle material: Cocobolo wood & satin stainless bolsters on brass liners
Handle thickness: 11,0 mm
Lock type: Mid-backlock
Weight: 100 grams
Recovered some pictures from an old harddisk.
Several years ago i got sent these two user Emerson folders from neighboring country Belgium; a Commander model with a Krein regrind and a CQC7 model.
The owner was unable to get them sharp again with only his Sharpmaker, and the request was also to give the new edges a bit of bling.
As they came in:
(https://i.postimg.cc/vmsJJX4Q/unnamed-(4).jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bZmVbx0M)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TP6zzQKf/unnamed-(2).jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k2TY8QNp)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GpxWdYyV/unnamed-(1).jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R3qsTWGL)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QMJ2h5Tv/unnamed-(3).jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cK69cvTc)
After sharpening/polishing.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rpNBMW4p/GEDC9231.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z907LWVk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BvBr4DFS/GEDC9232.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xkqxPXgh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BvBr4DF4/GEDC9233.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/p9yGBmk6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/7LnFw7z4/GEDC9234.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kVD1y2wY)
On the CQC7 i made the asymmetric bevel a bit wider to remove all different scratch patterns, and just touched up the existing mini-bevel on the other side.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9fY6CT9z/GEDC9235.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7CbsN5my)
(https://i.postimg.cc/7LnFw7zk/GEDC9238.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HJjZtr3Z)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pdJwR8jT/GEDC9239.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XZXHgrQS)
Both knives could now be easily touched up on the Sharpmaker again and the owner was happy, :-)
Spyderco Southard with CTS-204P blade, which has been in use for a few years now with a Dutch scout leader.
It has already been sharpened several times by him on stones, plus two times by me on Paper Wheels (once up to 6 micron diamond compound, and once up to 15 micron diamond, the latter performing noticeably longer for the owner)
This time the knife was reprofiled from about 30 degrees inclusive to 25 degrees inclusive with a standard Paper Wheel with 220 grit SiC, then deburred with a second Paper Wheel with 0.25 micron diamond compound.
This produces a polished semi-coarse edge with an aggressive bite, as the knife is going to be used to cut a lot of 10 mm polyprop rope in the coming weeks.
(https://i.ibb.co/FrX1s3F/image-2.png) (https://ibb.co/y9pChPr)
(https://i.ibb.co/S76hK9hH/image-1.png) (https://ibb.co/fGXhCPhZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/tp1Cmhpk/image.png) (https://ibb.co/s9X3mP9k)
The owner just informed me how the edge on his Southard is doing so far.
He had used the tip of the knife to cut open about 50 dusty/dirty cardboard boxes filled with porcelain mugs, and this resulted in blunting that tip to a point that it could only barely cut copy paper.
But according to the owner this was most likely due to the fact that the tip hit the mugs every now & then.
After all 50 boxes were opened & emptied the Southard was used to cut down each box, which he measured to be a total of about 80 meters or 262 feet of cardboard.
Afterwards the edge was still able to easily shave the hair from his legs (except about 15 mm of the tip), and the owner feels that the knife isn't due for a touch-up yet.
He also noticed that the CTS-204P steel holds this edge noticeably longer than the S30V steel in his Spyderco Sage, which he had sharpened himself and used earlier for the same job
Currently busy with the same mod of another Gerber Applegate-Fairbairn folder like i showed earlier a few pages back.
This is how the knife looked when i received it from the owner, still with a single edge & an edge angle between 40 and 45 degrees inclusive.
(https://i.ibb.co/cSf8KVcz/image.png) (https://ibb.co/q3qgLVMb)
(https://i.ibb.co/kgrCTpZD/image-1.png) (https://ibb.co/8DRZwJkx)
(https://i.ibb.co/hJX354JH/image-2.png) (https://ibb.co/1tsFVPtK)
And this is how the knife looks after grinding the new edge on the back of the blade & trying to match it with the reprofiled edge on the other side.
The scratch pattern complete with burr remains still present on the apex comes from a Rubber Wheel coated with ~ 170 grit diamond powder & wax.
(https://i.ibb.co/PZ3VfL1m/image-3.png) (https://ibb.co/zhjt0MPn)
(https://i.ibb.co/6R9jt6tB/image-4.png) (https://ibb.co/rG8Dpnps)
(https://i.ibb.co/1tcqQSKm/image-5.png) (https://ibb.co/tTRsKdcJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/TDxwt8BH/image-6.png) (https://ibb.co/PsvrghZ5)
The idea was to make the 2 edges / 4 bevels as visually similar in width & curvature as i could, with a specific edge angle of ~ 35 degrees inclusive, without damaging the names on the blade, and to create a new point that would be centered as much as possible.
Trying to achieve all these things at the same time freehand, together with many visual checks with a Victorinox loupe in between passes isn't easy, so i took my time.
Below you can see the end result after refining the initial edges with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound & deburring with a second Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 diamond compound.
Both edges are treetopping sharp.
(https://i.ibb.co/DPsBJfXJ/image-7.png) (https://ibb.co/Q7zWgvBg)
(https://i.ibb.co/4wtWQqzj/image-8.png) (https://ibb.co/WN5nThZc)
(https://i.ibb.co/7NvvS5td/image-9.png) (https://ibb.co/jZhh82kP)
(https://i.ibb.co/QjtsVyTK/image-10.png) (https://ibb.co/6JL6SjTW)
(https://i.ibb.co/0R1Mv1By/image-13.png) (https://ibb.co/rRq6Nqb2)
(https://i.ibb.co/Zz6YkqhN/image-14.png) (https://ibb.co/whNwx5KY)
(https://i.ibb.co/qMvjYXsF/image-11.png) (https://ibb.co/QF4QvzNj)
(https://i.ibb.co/8Dn8qb3f/image-12.png) (https://ibb.co/1fY21MVP)
This is how Applegate intended the knife to be, a true folding dagger.
It can still be carried in your pocket, but the top edge is only about 2-3 millimeters inside the handle, so when deliberately trying i can just feel the apex with my index finger.
Now the thumb lugs stop on the grooved linerlock tab, so it would be easy to use a file or a Dremel on it's surface to lower the blade a tiny bit deeper inside the handle for added safety, as there is some room for it.
(https://i.ibb.co/wFSf4shV/image-16.png) (https://ibb.co/HftjqdT6)
(https://i.ibb.co/Q71MVKNT/image-15.png) (https://ibb.co/35LcbCNj)
This thread about two Kohetsu santoku's in HAP40 steel belongs here as well:
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5669.msg41557.html#msg41557
This thread about a Forever SC-16WB ceramic knife can be also be included here:
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5672.msg41579.html#msg41579