I was wondering if there is a honing wheel I could buy that is the same diameter as the T8 Diamond wheels?
The reason I ask is that I am new to the T8 system and my biggest problem is getting a honing angle that I am comfortable with. I have the KS 123 so I am able to change the height of the universal support fairly quickly but it would be nice to just remove the support over to the honing wheel and start honing straight away. Any other suggestions would be welcome.
These (and others like them) are available...
https://schleifjunkies.de/en/product/leather-wheel-250x35-smooth-surface-to-the-end-trigger/
The main difficulty is using it on the Tormek with the grinding wheel in place. Honing wheels like this can be mounted on the other side usually with an adapter like this
https://schleifjunkies.de/en/product/adapter-for-2-wheel/
Also longer USB supports
https://schleifjunkies.de/en/product/toolbar-tormek-ready-double-sided/
These items are available eslewhere too.
The problem is that there is not enough room for longer knives if you set it up like this.
A better solution would be to have a different setup.
Either remove the grinding wheel and put the honing wheel in its place (not my favourite idea)
Put the honing wheel on a different machine. It is not essential to use another Tormek for this. You may be able to improvise...
Some details of my idea on this thread
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?msg=38933
I appreciate the info and links, I just watched a video with the Tormek guys using the multi base jig. I may look into that also.
Quote from: Rossy66 on December 06, 2025, 04:20:02 PMI was wondering if there is a honing wheel I could buy that is the same diameter as the T8 Diamond wheels?
The reason I ask is that I am new to the T8 system and my biggest problem is getting a honing angle that I am comfortable with. I have the KS 123 so I am able to change the height of the universal support fairly quickly but it would be nice to just remove the support over to the honing wheel and start honing straight away. Any other suggestions would be welcome.
Quote from: Dan on December 06, 2025, 04:47:56 PM...snip...
The problem is that there is not enough room for longer knives if you set it up like this.
A better solution would be to have a different setup.
...snip...
It might be helpful to see a picture of your setup. It may also be helpful for you to describe more about what is the difficulty "getting a honing angle that I am comfortable with".
Standard T8 with the USB on the front of the machine only, grinding and honing edge-trailing? Or grinding on the rear mounted USB, edge-leading and honing on the front mounted USB directly in the stock USB horizontal position, edge-trailing?
As Dan points out, mounting a 10" honing wheel can be done, but if you are grinding bevels on the USB mounted on the front/horizontal position, the honing wheel height will likely interfere with the movement of longer knives to the left (honing wheel side).
If you are grinding edge-trailing from the USB on the front, a possible solution might be to add what we refer to as the "Frontal Vertical Base" (FVB). The Tormek MB-120 provides this functionality and there are some third-party FVBs available.
A front mounted USB in the horizontal slots only allows for a horizontal adjustment in the USB position for angle changes. Adding an FVB adds a vertical adjustment, greatly expanding flexibility of angle positioning. It also raises the knife/jig assembly, helping to clear the honing wheel when working with longer knives.
I think this arrangement is highly likely to solve your difficulty in "getting a honing angle that I am comfortable with" as well as clearing either an 8" or 10" honing wheel.
Also, if you are grinding from the front mounted USB, have you tried grinding edge-leading on the rear mounted USB? If so, or even if not, perhaps you could elaborate on how/why that would not work for you.
If you are not familiar with the FVB and if you are interested in learning more, do a search here in the knife sharpening subforum for "FVB" or "Frontal Vertical Base". I got 29 hits using "FVB" and 57 using "Frontal Vertical Base", not doubt some would be duplicates and many would not be relevant to getting a basic understanding, but you'd learn a lot.
Thanks for replying RickKrung, I will post some pictures soon. I am used to stropping on a flat leather strop so the rotating honing wheel is a bit confusing, especially the angle. I am currently watching the Tormek Honing video and it is very informative, as I mentioned in my post, I may invest in the Tormek MB-102 Multi Base but I have already spent over $1800 so I am trying to keep my costs down. As you mentioned, the Tormek video does showing stropping with the USB in the vertical position but they do state that the clamp jig may come in contact with the first holding screw, I was wondering if once I set the correct angle (I also bought the KS-123) then could I just remove the screw? the right screw would still be tightened and the fine adjuster ring would stop the USB from moving forward!
I guess I am just trying to be overly cheap and I should just order the MB-102. I am trying to set up a time efficient process so I can maintain quality for my future customers while keeping my sharpening/honing time to a minimum.
Quote from: Rossy66 on December 06, 2025, 09:07:43 PM...snip...
As you mentioned, the Tormek video does showing stropping with the USB in the vertical position but they do state that the clamp jig may come in contact with the first holding screw, I was wondering if once I set the correct angle (I also bought the KS-123) then could I just remove the screw? the right screw would still be tightened and the fine adjuster ring would stop the USB from moving forward!
...snip...
Rather than remove the knob(screw), I would try replacing it with a set-screw (some people call these "grub screws"). Takes a touch longer to secure, but removes the interference while providing the clearance. Some do this with the locking screw on the knife jigs, when that knob interferes.
Most set-screws one can buy in local/chain hardware stores are "cup-tip", which is a conical shaped cavity in the middle, leaving a circular sharp ridge near the outer diameter. These will "cut" into the shafts and are meant for situations where the set screw is tighten and left tight so it will securely hold the shaft in more permanently. You do not want that.
Look at the end of the Tormek locking screws. They are flat, which is what you want. Filing the cup points down will help a lot, but flat-tip set screws are available, at least from online stores like McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com/products/set-screws/stainless-steel-flat-tip-set-screws~~/system-of-measurement~metric/), the problem there being they often have to be bought in small - medium quantities (10, 25, 50). It is rare to find flat-tip set screws in local hardware stores, particularly for these, M6x1.0 metric screws in the USA.
AND, do you will want Stainless Steel. Plain steel will rust.
Cup-tip
Cup-Tip Set Screws.png
Flat-tip
Flat-Tip Set Screws.png
What a great idea, I will look today while I'm out. I did order the MB-102 as I am interested in sharpening on the side and learning to sharpen chisels and planer blades.
Not my idea, someone else's here on the forum, but I've used it, at least before I made my own FVB, back when the concept first appeared. I was going to edit my reply to recommend that your next purchase be the MB-120, if nothing else just for its FVB function. It's a game changer.
I'm not sure how you'd use the MB-120 for plane blades and chisels on the side, I just do them on the vertical USB. I have all the diamond wheels and a couple CBN and have never done any work on the sides.