Hello! Im new here, please be gentle.
About the adjusting stone, what difference is that from a regular dual grit wetstone?
I was thinking it's maybe useful to have a finer stone just for the
Sj stone? Bad idea? Good idea? I have one that is 1000 and 6000 for example. Never used and never using for manual sharpening.
The SJ stone is very fine and also quite fragile. I would dare touch it with anything that isn't reasonably parallel to the USB.
Even when recently trued with the TT-50, it remains quite smooth and polishes well. There are precautions to take (such as never exit the stone with the TT, always hit the shoulders moving into the stone. You can find several posts on this topic.
If you want to grade it as fine as you can, I'd suggest a very fine diamond plate held in place with the SE jig, as seen in Wootz's stone grading videos.
Quote from: tgbto on October 20, 2025, 11:26:48 AMThe SJ stone is very fine and also quite fragile. I would dare touch it with anything that isn't reasonably parallel to the USB.
Even when recently trued with the TT-50, it remains quite smooth and polishes well. There are precautions to take (such as never exit the stone with the TT, always hit the shoulders moving into the stone. You can find several posts on this topic.
If you want to grade it as fine as you can, I'd suggest a very fine diamond plate held in place with the SE jig, as seen in Wootz's stone grading videos.
Many have found that putting a radius (chamfer) on the corners of the SJ stone helps a lot to prevent chipping of the edges, both in sharpening, but more so for truing. The grading stone works well for creating the radius. A fine diamond plate (~1000 grit) is what I use for reconditioning the surface of the SJ but I'm not sure that it is coarse enough to put on enough of a radius. The chamfer shown in the image below is barely adequate.
I have also found that it is possible to exit the edge/side of the SJ wheel while truing, if two things are done: 1) a healthy radius exists and 2) travel speed of the truing tool is VERY slow.
I was quite unclear. Adjusting was the wrong word maybe.
How do you clean your sj stone?
Quote from: Marr on October 20, 2025, 06:34:05 PMI was quite unclear. Adjusting was the wrong word maybe.
How do you clean your sj stone?
Ah, yes, that is quite a different question.
I would definitely not use the Tormek grading stone. Some like the Nagura (https://www.rockler.com/nagura-stone?country=US&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V91190&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22234888718&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpKD9x8SzkAMVyx-tBh1zawcFEAQYBSABEgJPa_D_BwE) stones, but I find even them to be too coarse, removing too much SJ wheel material.
Instead, I have been using Sabitoru "rust eraser" (https://elementknife.com/products/rust-eraser-sabitoru?variant=31964693889135) pads. The website linked here shows three grits available, but I've only used two that came in a pack from a different source. Cleans the surface beautifully, removing nearly all traces of metal and black marker. Images below show before and after cleaning with the Sabitoru pads.
I agree with Rick. I like the rust erasers.
Ken
Quote from: Marr on October 19, 2025, 07:33:38 PMAbout the adjusting stone, what difference is that from a regular dual grit wetstone?
The SG grindstone can be graded with the two-sided stone grader to either a coarse or find grit. That grindstone alone is sufficient, especially for a beginner. I wouldn't invest in the SJ grindstone unless for some reason I found the SG unsatisfactory.
I sharpen all kinds of hand tools, mower blades, and kitchen knives. Been doing it for 23 years and have never had the need for anything other than the SG grindstone.
In my opinion it just doesn't pay to get a tool or a knife any sharper than what I get with the combination of the SG and the leather honing wheel. Not for my needs, anyway.
Quote from: Herman Trivilino on October 25, 2025, 08:10:07 PMQuote from: Marr on October 19, 2025, 07:33:38 PMAbout the adjusting stone, what difference is that from a regular dual grit wetstone?
The SG grindstone can be graded with the two-sided stone grader to either a coarse or find grit. That grindstone alone is sufficient, especially for a beginner. I wouldn't invest in the SJ grindstone unless for some reason I found the SG unsatisfactory.
I sharpen all kinds of hand tools, mower blades, and kitchen knives. Been doing it for 23 years and have never had the need for anything other than the SG grindstone.
In my opinion it just doesn't pay to get a tool or a knife any sharper than what I get with the combination of the SG and the leather honing wheel. Not for my needs, anyway.
I love your by-line:
"Knowledge isn't free, you have to pay attention." R.P. Feynman
Tormek recommend the fine side of the grader to dress the SJ wheel.
https://youtu.be/FirTgeSWYcw?si=zAW84HYGsfTeA45k
Quote from: John Hancock Sr on October 26, 2025, 02:57:48 AMTormek recommend the fine side of the grader to dress the SJ wheel.
https://youtu.be/FirTgeSWYcw?si=zAW84HYGsfTeA45k
Yes. And i also tested with a 6000grit wetstone. Worked a lot better. Very low pressure and the sj looks like new.
Unfortunately, I believe the SuperGrind (SG) grinding wheel is underappreciated and misunderstood. For many years this stalwart grinding wheel was the flagship Tormek grinding wheel. In many ways it still is. It is certainly the most versatile.
We have been bombarded with the importance of constant diameter over grit versatility. For decades, we accepted things like truing and dressing as just part of sharpening. Now they seem like major inconveniences.
Unlike the SG, SJ, and SB, our superabrasive grinding wheels can not be reshaped with radiused corners. They can also be repaired.
I do not disparage our more recent grinding wheels. They expand the scope of the Tormek. I just believe the SG still has a place for Tormek users.
Ken
Completely agree Ken. This is my default for most things. However, I do have an over abundance of wood working tools with harder steels which makes the diamond and CBN invaluable
Wise thinking, John. My turning tools were a mixture of 1930s Carbon Craftsman and recent hhs. With some reluctance, I recently gave them to a friend. My planes and many of my chisels are century old Stanleys. Many of them were my grandfathers tools. The SG is a good fit for them and my kitchen knives. Like you, I have some diamond and a CBN wheel which I can use on the rare occasions where I need to "bring in the artillery".
Ken
Quote from: Ken S on November 02, 2025, 04:08:03 AMMany of them were my grandfathers tools.
My brother got the majority of my dad's tools. He did his apprenticeship in the 1910s but I got a few and have accumulates some others in the mean time. I seem to spend most of my time these days setting up my shed rather than doing actual woodwork!
Quote from: John Hancock Sr on October 26, 2025, 02:57:48 AMTormek recommend the fine side of the grader to dress the SJ wheel.
Agreed, but that's probably because they offer no alternative yet. I think it will remove too much material in an uncontrolled way. The Wootz maneuver with the SE-77 and a fine diamond plate seems way safer.