The first few hand plane blades I sharpened were out of square.
The same issue that many others have had.
I read many of the posts on how to get the blade square to the wheel, etc.
So I adjusted the se77 jig and checked the blades to the inside of the wheel for squareness.
I also checked the universal support for square to the wheel.
Using a T8 and DF-250 Diamond wheel.
Up to this point I think everything is square.
However, I still can't get the blade square after grinding.
There is still a high side on the left side of blade as it is mounted on the Tormek.
What I haven't seen is how to grind the blade after the jig, support, etc are squared.
Do I focus on just grinding the side of blade that is high?
How much of the blade width should be focused on during the grinding. For how long?
I've tried that and after grinding for a while, there is no change to the squareness.
What is the correct approach to grinding the blade back to square?
Good day to you too ! And welcome to the forum.
If everything is square and your blades come out out of square, then there might be an issue with your technique. So if you keep on grinding the same way, you will probably keep sharpening out of square.
What I'd do is skew the SE-77 so you grind your plane blade back towards square. It is explained on page 127 of the SE-77 manual (https://tormek.com/download/18.681cbd68182e94c066a21dfd/1664201736561/Instructions%20SE-77_FR.pdf)
I always double check square with a small square as I start to ensure that the iron is being sharpened square. I never trust the jig to be perfect.
Quote from: tgbto on October 20, 2025, 11:32:40 AMGood day to you too ! And welcome to the forum.
If everything is square and your blades come out out of square, then there might be an issue with your technique. So if you keep on grinding the same way, you will probably keep sharpening out of square.
What I'd do is skew the SE-77 so you grind your plane blade back towards square. It is explained on page 127 of the SE-77 manual (https://tormek.com/download/18.681cbd68182e94c066a21dfd/1664201736561/Instructions%20SE-77_FR.pdf)
I agree with tgbto and John.
Adjust the it using the skew screws -in very small increments - until you get the front edge of the grind
square with the sides of the plane blade. But it is unclear to me what your reference is here. I think I'm reading square to the jig and square to the wheel. The only thing that matters is square across the cutting edge relative to the blade sides.
Also, as tgbto points out, technique has a lot to do with how squareness turns out. Before the skew adjustable jig came out, one way to affect the grind was to put more pressure on one side of the blade. Even with the skew screws adjusted, I find I still have to use controlled pressure.
Use the black marker trick to help show where grinding is occurring, as you work your way back to square. I put black marker on everything, every time I put something to the wheel, knives, scissors, drill bits, plane and chisel blades - even things that aren't cutting tools.
John mentions using a small square, which is exactly right. But, make sure the small square is square. I've seen mention and pictures of 3D printed small squares, but I wonder just how square they are. The best tool to use is something precision, like a Starret 4" adjustable square (https://www.starrett.com/details?cat-no=C33H-4-4R), or a very small precision machinist's square. I like the Starrett or Lee Valley Small Double Square (https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/squares/72730-lee-valley-small-double-square?item=15N0501&utm_campaign=USA%7CPLA%7CPMax%7CTools%7CHighPriceTier&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19203142217&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuLrN2re1kAMVwSitBh1gRBDvEAQYAiABEgKHdPD_BwE), as projection of the scale can be adjusted, based on the projection of the blade from the jig. Tools like these are not cheap, but I find they are worth it.
Quote from: RickKrung on Yesterday at 03:40:52 PMThe only thing that matters is square across the cutting edge relative to the blade sides.
Absolutely agree!!!!
Quote from: RickKrung on Yesterday at 03:40:52 PMBut, make sure the small square is square.
Again, excellent point! When I built my shed I was surprised as to how much of my metrology was not accurate. Always double and triple check your measuring tools before trusting them.
It is ofc nice to have square edge on handplane iron, but actually square enough is enough, because handplanes usually have the lateral adjuster. If they don't have it, then a small plane setting hammer, any hammer actually, does the trick.
I agree about the lateral adjustment; however, developing the skill of being able to produce squareedges efficiently will serve you well.
Ken