Good morning dear members,
Mr. Vadim of Knifegrinders in his excellent book, gives examples of grinding routines. Among these, he assumes "paper wheels with autosol'.
But if you only have a Tormek, can you assume a 'leather wheel with Tormek paste'?
If not, what is the best alternative, if you don't work with paper wheels?
Wim
It has been a long time since I actually read Vadim's book, so I am not recalling his assumption on the use of Autosol with paper wheels. That surprises me as he was such a proponent of diamond abrasives, at least on felt wheels. Way back when he first began working with paper wheels, I tried them. I could not get them true enough and didn't care for the vibrations or the high speed, so abandoned that approach.
Vadim worked with me and got me to a solution of using 1µ diamond paste on a rock hard felt wheel, following the Tormek SJ wheel (which is about 4-5µ). I polish on the SJ at the same angle as grinding and then raise the angle for the felt wheel according to the steel type. I seldom see any of the harder steels, so my work is usually 1-2º over the grinding angle.
Rick
Thank you Rick!!!
I am also going to try this routine and will post my experience here.
(I also have a SJ-250 wheel).
Wim
Quote from: WimSpi on November 07, 2022, 05:36:42 PM
Thank you Rick!!!
I am also going to try this routine and will post my experience here.
(I also have a SJ-250 wheel).
Wim
As mentioned, I use diamond paste, not alcohol suspension. I've not seen any issues with the paste other than it is a bit messy.
Be sure to get "Rock Hard" felt wheels. It is possible to find wider wheels, ~2", but I've been using a 1" wide, 10" dia. wheel the whole time and seem to do just fine. Arbor size usually does not match the 12mm Tormek shaft diameter, so you'll probably have to figure out some sort of bushing arrangement, unless you can find one with a 12mm arbor hole.
You'll likely need flange washers also. Ken S. has long been an advocate of metric fender washers. I machined a custom set in aluminum. I do recall that in one of Vadim's videos, perhaps very early one, where he mounted a 2" wide wheel on a T7/8 machine without flange washers, but the wheel did not have a recess like the Tormek grinding wheels so it was nearly too thick, with only one or so threads protruding where the nut could engage. It worked.
Rick
A RH felt wheel I already have (33mm thick with a 12mm hole). I also have the diamond paste from THK. In itself it lubricates well. Am curious about the result. I don't know if this is polycrystal or monocrystal.
Furthermore, I also used the chromium oxide like Vadmin and used it on a leather wheel porridge, as he describes. In itself that also goes well, but it is a bit messy. On its own, it is cheap though.
Quote from: WimSpi on November 07, 2022, 11:25:25 AM
Good morning dear members,
Mr. Vadim of Knifegrinders in his excellent book, gives examples of grinding routines. Among these, he assumes "paper wheels with autosol'.
But if you only have a Tormek, can you assume a 'leather wheel with Tormek paste'?
If not, what is the best alternative, if you don't work with paper wheels?
Wim
The main assett to paper wheels is speed, not better sharpness.
As I recall, he recommended:
- for low quality steel (no 1,000 grit wheel): green rouge (5-10 microns)
- for medium quality steel: (1,000 grit wheel use): Autosol (3-5 microns)
- for high quality steel & supersteels: diamond pastes, 10 microns to .5 microns
I bought a second leather wheel and have had good success with 1µ diamond paste. I like using just the T-8 and not buying a low speed grinder and fitting it with supports and additional wheel.
Quote from: john.jcb on November 10, 2022, 06:41:34 PM
I bought a second leather wheel and have had good success with 1µ diamond paste. I like using just the T-8 and not buying a low speed grinder and fitting it with supports and additional wheel.
That's how I feel about it, too.