I was sharpening my wife's paring knives today and found that the SVM-00 jig (held in an SVM-45 jig) is a great way to hold the knives. As the knives are symmetrical side-to-side, this really made sharpening them easier! This little jig is one that I think is often ignored.
Quote from: RichColvin on May 04, 2022, 01:07:27 AM
I was sharpening my wife's paring knives today and found that the SVM-00 jig (held in an SVM-45 jig) is a great way to hold the knives. As the knives are symmetrical side-to-side, this really made sharpening them easier! This little jig is one that I think is often ignored.
Very true.
It can also be used to hit lower angles (if desired) on some knives, where the regular jig might get in the way.
I used it to sharpen a couple of paring knives yesterday. Worked fine, but it's a bit fiddly getting the knives mounted straight. The method Tormek recommends--laying the blade and jig bar flat on a table--doesn't account for the angle of the primary grind (usually around 2°), so that's guaranteed to be off. I did it by eye, but when you tighten the handle screw the jig may have other ideas.
I agree that the SVM-00 is a useful jig. I included it with my original instructions for using the kenjig. Combined with the SVM-45, it brings small paring knives to 139mm Projection. It is really designed for small blades with substantial wooden handles. It works very well with carving knives. I have found that clamping pocket knives can be somewhat problematic.
Ken
Quote from: Ken S on May 04, 2022, 06:25:58 AM
... I have found that clamping pocket knives can be somewhat problematic.
Ken
Agree with that.
Ken jig?
Quote from: Scotty on May 04, 2022, 02:23:50 PM
Ken jig?
Or... Adjustable Kenjig...
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4995.0;attach=6460)
;D
Might be needed with the new KJ-45...
Good thought, CB. However, it is overkill. All I need is a few more kenjigs, with grooves cut every five millimeters from around 80 to 100mm. Add a metric rule (or the back of a kenjig with calibrated pencil marks) and a copy of Dutchman's table for the diameter of the grinding wheel. I'm good to go.
Ken
Thanks.
I am interested in your system.
I am currently a KG disciple but am always interested in different methods.
Can you aim me at a tutorial of more info? Thanks
Scotty,
Do a google search for "kenjig instructions". You will find the illustrated PDF I did several years ago. I will eventually update it to incorporate the new KJ-45 jig; however, the PDF will give you a flavor of the kenjig.
Ken
Here's the info: https://sharpeninghandbook.info/indexJigs.html#KenJig (https://sharpeninghandbook.info/indexJigs.html#KenJig)
Thanks
Quote from: Ken S on May 04, 2022, 08:41:35 PM
Good thought, CB. However, it is overkill. All I need is a few more kenjigs, with grooves cut every five millimeters from around 80 to 100mm. Add a metric rule (or the back of a kenjig with calibrated pencil marks) and a copy of Dutchman's table for the diameter of the grinding wheel. I'm good to go.
Ken
Maybe true, but that's why I added "Might be needed with the new KJ-45...". Unlike wheel size, angle change is affected greater by Projection Distance, so 5mm grooves might not be sufficient. (It only takes a couple mm difference in the PD vs. the 10mm of wheel size to change the angle).
In my mind I see no difference in just setting the USB height vs. trying to clamp the knife to a particular measurement... might have been easier when you could just adjust the stop collar, but now I agree with the statement Tormek made in their video that the adjustment is now made at the USB.
I still agree with the "Kenjig" concept, just think you might need something more adaptable. And you can get calipers fairly cheap, especially non-digital ones, that are accurate enough for this purpose. Just lock it in place and you have an "instant Kenjig", but one you can adjust a bit more if needed.
Well stated, CB. I have always viewed the kenjig concept as continually evolving.
Ken