Anyone know which jig is best suited for a small 3/8-1/2 Sorby Spindle master gouge?
The only way I can describe it is- This is one that is a hybrid between a roughing gouge and a spindle gouge with a very small bevel and the fluting is very shallow, almost flat but not quite.
Thanks,
Liz ;D
Are you sure it has a flute? The SpindleMaster has no flute at all. It is flat on top, like a scraper, and round on the bottom like a gouge. It is best sharpened with the SVD-185. Fiddle with the protrusion and jig setting a little to get the bevel to match the stone. If I remember from the last one I did, it should be jig setting #3, with a 2-1/2 inch protrusion. That will get you close.
I just got a SpindleMaster and what I was told about sharpening was to use a diamond stone on the FLAT side for a few strokes. No need to grind/polish the bevel!
Clem
Quote from: Clem Wixted on October 18, 2006, 04:41:24 PM
I just got a SpindleMaster and what I was told about sharpening was to use a diamond stone on the FLAT side for a few strokes. No need to grind/polish the bevel!
Clem
You're right that the factory recommends lapping the flat surface only. If you're going to use a diamond stone, it needs to be the finest grade you can find. The surface of the tool when new is highly polished, and that surface finish is part of the secret behind the tools effectiveness. You could also use the side of your TORMEK grindstone, followed by the leather honing wheel.
However, what happens if you catch an embedded nail or get too close to your chuck, or just plain drop the thing on your concrete shop floor? The only way to reshape the SpindleMaster to its factory shape is to use the SVD-185.
"However, what happens if you catch an embedded nail or get too close to your chuck, or just plain drop the thing on your concrete shop floor? The only way to reshape the SpindleMaster to its factory shape is to use the SVD-185." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Jeff,
I never have any embedded nails and certainly would never get too close to my chuck. Yeah right! :)
I think I like the bevel sharpening option, since I have the right tool to sharpen and polish the bevel. I might still have to polish the flat of the Spindlemaster after I sharpen the bevel to get rid of the burr.
Clem
Quote from: Clem Wixted on October 18, 2006, 11:13:28 PMI think I like the bevel sharpening option, since I have the right tool to sharpen and polish the bevel. I might still have to polish the flat of the Spindlemaster after I sharpen the bevel to get rid of the burr.
Clem
You always want both the bevel and the flat side of the SpindleMaster highly polished, with no burr. It is a cutting tool, rather than a scraper. It is also a cutting tool that benefits a great deal from a highly refined surface finish.