Hello!
Unfortunately, I received a notice from the moderator that this message was considered commercial. Therefore, I am forced to remove the content. I apologize to all of you.
This would be very useful for finding the current angles on knives before sharpening.
Interesting. Impressive fabrication.
Only question I have is about resolution of the deflected laser beams. Are they any more "accurate" or "precise" than other similar devices? I don't have much trouble holding a knife in the one I have but find the beams are often diffuse enough to make it not of much utility. This is more true when the bevels are more convex, scattering the beam.
A description of how this tool improves on that resolution would be most more useful, to me, than how the knife is held or the scale rotated.
I guess I have a second question, regarding the holding system. A lot of knives are stainless, which is supposed to be non-magnetic. I have found that most of the stainless steel I have (which is a lot, as I do metal machining of a lot of [non-sharpening related] things out of stainless) is somewhat magnetic. I've not checked any of my knives for their level of magnetism. If a knife were to be non-magnetic, say for a ceramic knife, is there a way to hold it in your device?
Rick
Clever design!
Quote from: RickKrung on March 22, 2020, 02:36:03 PM
Only question I have is about resolution of the deflected laser beams. Are they any more "accurate" or "precise" than other similar devices? I don't have much trouble holding a knife in the one I have but find the beams are often diffuse enough to make it not of much utility. This is more true when the bevels are more convex, scattering the beam.
A description of how this tool improves on that resolution would be most more useful, to me, than how the knife is held or the scale rotated.
I have their Laser Goniometer PRO+ more than a year. Laser beam is very narrow and reflections very good readable, but it depends on the edge and grind quality, of course. See some photos below...
I suppose that laser is the same. New version seems to have a smaller scale diameter which means a little bit worse division but IMHO is still very good, much better than Catra...
Quote from: RickKrung on March 22, 2020, 02:36:03 PM
I guess I have a second question, regarding the holding system. A lot of knives are stainless, which is supposed to be non-magnetic. I have found that most of the stainless steel I have (which is a lot, as I do metal machining of a lot of [non-sharpening related] things out of stainless) is somewhat magnetic. I've not checked any of my knives for their level of magnetism.
Martensitic stainless steels are magnetic = most of knifes (hardening).
Quote from: RickKrung on March 22, 2020, 02:36:03 PM
If a knife were to be non-magnetic, say for a ceramic knife, is there a way to hold it in your device?
I think you can still hold a knife in hand...
Vetako, your products appear very well thought out, and certainly look amazing ... but Im having a hard time getting a response from you when I write asking for information on shipping to North America?
I sent you a note via your website a few days ago, but have heard nothing back answering my questions with regards to shipping costs and ordering instructions to Canada.
I'd really like to purchase some of your product (especially now that I see this new goniometer!), but need to know how to order it :)
I'll drop you another note via your website and await a response.
Talk soon!?
Quote from: Roger M. on March 23, 2020, 12:20:10 AM
Vetako, your products appear very well thought out, and certainly look amazing ... but Im having a hard time getting a response from you when I write asking for information on shipping to North America?
I sent you a note via your website a few days ago, but have heard nothing back answering my questions with regards to shipping costs and ordering instructions to Canada.
I'd really like to purchase some of your product (especially now that I see this new goniometer!), but need to know how to order it :)
I'll drop you another note via your website and await a response.
Talk soon!?
Hello,
I was unable to order from their site.
I sent an email to: info@vetako.cz and I solved the problem with answers in a very short time.
Now I am waiting to receive the new "MASTER protractor"
Thanks Van.
I was using the form on his website ... maybe they don't 'check it often as they do email?
Seeing as you had good luck with the email address, I'll try that.
Please post your impressions of this device.
Quote from: john.jcb on March 23, 2020, 02:12:40 AM
Please post your impressions of this device.
https://youtu.be/DixUormpuvM (https://youtu.be/DixUormpuvM)
Quote from: Vetako on March 23, 2020, 07:46:56 PM
Quote from: john.jcb on March 23, 2020, 02:12:40 AM
Please post your impressions of this device.
https://youtu.be/DixUormpuvM (https://youtu.be/DixUormpuvM)
Good evening,
do you have a PDF user manual to download?
Thank you
Hi JVH,
Can you please explain to me how to interpret (read) the reflections on the goneometer in relation to your published photos?
Thank you
Quote from: van on March 24, 2020, 07:26:42 PM
Can you please explain to me how to interpret (read) the reflections on the goneometer in relation to your published photos?
Thank you
Hi van,
in general - outer points are grinded edge reflections, inner points/lines/arc are blade profile reflections.
You can easily read grinded edge (outer) reflections, they look like points and show grinded angle. The reason why there are nearly point reflections is small edge thickness (ca 0,8 - 1,0 mm) and polished edge (SJ wheel + PA-77/FlexCut/Chromox). On thicker edges the points stretch, non-polished edge produces blurry reflections.
1st knife: 40° (20 + 20)
2nd knife: ca 35° (17,5 + 17,5)
3rd knife: ca 35° (17,5 + 17,5)
Reading inner reflections is not so easy due different blade surfaces, grind profiles and thicknesses. Furthermore, the laser beam is relatively narrow and does not have to cover the entire blade, so I am very careful with interpretation of inner reflections...
1st knife: Knife: ANV P200
Grind profile: High flat
Grind surface: Satin
Showed blade bevel angle: 5° + 5° with blurred trace to ca 7,5° + 7,5° due satin surface
2nd knife: Knife: Custom hunting knife
Grind profile: Hollow
Grind surface: Polished
Showed blade bevel angle: ca 7° + 7,5°, slightly uneven grind is visible
3rd knife: Knife: Custom hunting knife
Grind profile: High flat
Grind surface: Polished
Showed blade bevel angle: ca 5° + 5°
jvh
Thanks JVH,
excellent explanation, if you or someone else has other insights to be able to divulge mer better understand the reading on laser protractors, I invite him to publish his knowledge on the matter.
Thank you all.
JVH, thanks for really excellent interpretation of the laser reflections. I fully agree with you. Your blades are perfectly symmetrical!
When the laser beam diameter is sufficiently large than the reflections carry info about the grind of the blade sides. Both hollow and convex (sabre) grinds generate stretched (not dot) reflections. Dot reflections we can expect from flat grinds with optical quality surface.
Jan
Quote from: van on March 25, 2020, 01:17:34 AM
Thanks JVH,
excellent explanation, if you or someone else has other insights to be able to divulge mer better understand the reading on laser protractors, I invite him to publish his knowledge on the matter.
Thank you all.
Hi van
I've scanned and attached the Catra laser protractor user instruction leaflet.
The Vertako and Catra protractors have a similar operation so you may find some of the info of use.
Andrew
Thanks, I was having trouble interpreting the markings
"Hi van
I've scanned and attached the Catra laser protractor user instruction leaflet.
The Vertako and Catra protractors have a similar operation so you may find some of the info of use.
Andrew"
Thanks Smurfs,
very helpful.
Continued radio silence despite multiple emails and attempted contact via the website.
Certainly doesn't inspire a lot of confidence for a few hundred $$ purchase.
Quote from: Roger M. on April 01, 2020, 02:39:26 AM
Continued radio silence despite multiple emails and attempted contact via the website.
Certainly doesn't inspire a lot of confidence for a few hundred $$ purchase.
Mine is traveling, I hope to be able to receive it soon.
Yes! actually I noticed that both with the site and with the email communications are very deficient (maybe he has problems interfacing with others)
Try to contact the German friend who put the video on YouTube, it would seem that he has excellent contacts with the owner of the Vetako.
Keep us informed.
I don't know, but I suspect they're just not set up to ship anything to North America ... so questions from potential buyers in North America about the cost of shipping and method of payment are simply ignored.
At least that scenario, even though unprofessional, is understandable.
It's too late now anyway, for those times I'm away from AC power, I purchased the amazing TSProf Blitz instead, and have already received a few emails from Marina detailing the status of my order.
I've developed a laser goniometer which can be 3D printed. It is available at https://www.sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-LaserGoniometer.html.
Rich, this is a very nice and useful piece of work. Thanks a lot for sharing !
I was wondering, are you familiar with heat set inserts (http://www.amazon.com/FFVRVSS-M2-M3-Threaded-Inserts/dp/B0FWCHPY4F) ? They are inexpensive and make for a very easy way to add strong threads to 3D-printed parts. All you have to do is :
- change the diameter of the hole to the appropriate one for the thread size (3.8 mm for a M3 insert for instance, and some even go as far as making a conical insert to minimize bulgin around the insertion point)
- put these holes inside a cylinder-shaped modifier so that the wall thickness around the insert is about 80% of the thread size (3.2mm at least for M4 for instance),
- add them using a soldering iron (any will do but using the included toolheads will make it even easier).
A nice trick is to put them on the backside if you can so that the screw tends to pull the insert into the 3D printed part instead of ripping it out. You can add the modifiers as separate bodies in F3D so they will be appropriately placed in your slicer. I can make the modification for you in your design if you wish.
Many thanks,
Nick.
Nick,
I've not played with the inserts, though I've looked into them. So far, I've found that the threads in the PLA are sufficient as the load is not high; or at least that is what I've experienced so far.
Thank you for the recommendation though. And if would modify the design (the f3d file) to use such inserts, please do send it to me and I will add that to the documentation (and of course crediting you for the work).
Rich
My son printed my one a couple years ago, prior to that I made one out of wood ( both designs can be found on hackaday.com.
Recently I bought a cheap one off Amazon. All of them work about the same. Good enough.
Good luck with your design though. I use a goniometer often and believe they are a staple in my tiny little shop.
Quote from: RichColvin on January 13, 2026, 11:51:52 PMI've developed a laser goniometer which can be 3D printed. It is available at https://www.sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-LaserGoniometer.html.
Hi Colvin
I have also made my own laser goni.
/Perra
https://youtu.be/5Q-qHsmYvjs?si=Aar2V8TqTOY-LLeF
Nice work Perra!