Is there a special trick to loosen the ESEE lock on the tormek wheel.
Not so easy lol
I put it on finger tight and now trying to remove it there is no way I can undo it.
I'm hesitant to put a pipe wrench on it hoping there is a trick.
I know the threads are reversed of course.
Can't believe it's this much of an effort to remove the stone.
Any help would be great.
Terry
Looking at the forum it looks like I'm not the only one who's had this problem.
Looks like back to Big Bear tools for a refund:(
Only sharpened 3 knives with it.
Terry
Quote from: Steelhead58 on January 27, 2019, 12:16:36 AM
Is there a special trick to loosen the ESEE lock on the tormek wheel.
Not so easy lol
I put it on finger tight and now trying to remove it there is no way I can undo it.
I'm hesitant to put a pipe wrench on it hoping there is a trick.
I know the threads are reversed of course.
Can't believe it's this much of an effort to remove the stone.
Any help would be great.
Terry
Did you try by grabbing and turning the wheel, like it says in the instructions? Example here around 1:05...
https://youtu.be/IX96a9WoAJE?t=65
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3862.0;attach=3009)
(In case you can't see the video).
Yes with all the strength in me lol
Quote from: Steelhead58 on January 27, 2019, 01:01:36 AM
Yes with all the strength in me lol
Huh. ???
From that other thread (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3168.0) you posted in... looks like it might be a warranty issue?
If so, (and you don't decide to just return it)... may want to email tormek support right away... to get the ball rolling.
(Or grab the pipe wrench)... :o
With my neighbor on one wheel and me on the other we got it free.
Liberal amounts of waterproof grease from now on:)!
Terry
Quote from: Steelhead58 on January 27, 2019, 01:54:31 AM
With my neighbor on one wheel and me on the other we got it free.
Liberal amounts of waterproof grease from now on:)!
Terry
Congrats. Although I think I'd still run it by support... especially based on that other forum thread... something may be outta whack.
I am puzzled by this. I have used EZYlocks since 2010. I do recall a few (very few) occasions when the EZYlock jammed, however, this was several years ago. I make absolutely no claim to unusual expertise or manual dexterity. Yes, we have had several members post about EZYlock problems. I do believe we have an issue with the EZYlock, although I believe it is related to communication and usage rather than a defect in the EZYlock itself. Considering the number of Tormeks in service with EZYlocks, the number of problems is miniscule.
If you purchase a new manual transmission car, and it stalls one time, would you return it for a refund the first week? Of course that would be hasty. Wouldn't a return to Big Bear within a week also be hasty?
Let's analyze this situation. First, we have two entirely unrelated issues. Rusted old non stainless shafts with frozen nuts and wheels have nothing to do with the EZYlock. Nor does tapping wrenches with hammers to tighten and loosen nuts. These situations should not be mentioned in the same post as EZYlock difficulties.
The EZYlock should loosen with only moderate light pressure. It should engage with only the motor being turned on. There is no need to hand tighten the EZYlock.
In my opinion, most of the problems happen because of trying to loosen the EZYlock in the wrong direction. I found placing a piece of tape on the top of my Tormek with a highly visible directional arrow a useful memory aid. I recommend doing this to other users. If I am capable of forgetting which direction to loosen, I believe others may have the same capability to forget. It is a simple, effective memory aid.
I will be contacting support about this issue. I do not think this is a major issue, however, it is an issue which needs to be resolved (without pipe wrenches or Channelocks).
Ken
I'm going to lubrcate it carefully and keep a close eye on it for now.
I believe with a carefull application of waterproof grease it should fix the problem.
Seemed dry from the factory in my opinion.There was a very small amount of grease on the plastic bearing face on the backside of the washer.
Tightness seemed to be on the threads themselves and there was a gritty feeling on the shaft where the ezzelock rode.
I think and hope the waterproof grease does it's part.
I'm also going to make it a habit to remove the wheel periodically to make sure all is good.
And I will remove it when I know I won't be using it for a while.
Terry
I don't understand why you would feel the need to remove the stone because you weren't going to use your T8 for a while.
Quote from: GeoTech on January 27, 2019, 03:40:13 PM
I don't understand why you would feel the need to remove the stone because you weren't going to use your T8 for a while.
I agree. I think he thinks water is getting in and causing it to seize... so he wants to keep it clean and dry. But based on the other thread, and in particular, this post...
Quote from: Rem on October 15, 2016, 10:35:24 PM
Nut is fine. I just changed the wheel earlier this morning. I have a 4000 grit waterstone and I have changed wheels numerous times with no issues. Then, just now, it's seized. I mean it won't budge. Doesn't look good. R
... I don't think that is the issue... which is why I suggested he contact Tormek support... even though he now got the EzeLock off... to try and figure out what is really going on.
My guess is that seizing problems originate in overtightening the EZYlock and are often worsened by trying to loosen by turning in both directions. Left hand threads are counterintuitive, useful, but still counterintuitive.
Ken
Quote from: Ken S on January 28, 2019, 10:12:40 AM
My guess is that seizing problems originate in overtightening the EZYlock and are often worsened by trying to loosen by turning in both directions. Left hand threads are counterintuitive, useful, but still counterintuitive.
Ken
I don't think so... you're right, it is "counterintuitive"... I've done it, (and probably everyone who has one has too)... but I've never had it get tight enough that a bit more pressure on the stone "the right way" got it to loosen.
Edit to add: In fact, I'll give you another reason I think it's something else. Back when I was trying the wider stone on the T-4, I forgot one time to put the inner washer on. When I hit the switch... you can guess the result... I basically "locked" the stone to the machine. I was still able to loosen the Eze-lock, without resorting to the measures taken in this and the other thread.
So, I'm still in the... "it's something else"... category. ???
CB,
At the risk of agreeing with you (again :) ), like you, I remain open minded to other possibilities and would like to see this mystery solved.
Ken
An update on my new Tormek T 8
Since the wheel was stuck on my unit and I had a really hard time removing the stone I have had no issues.
I applied a coating of waterproof grease on the threads and to the back of the easy loc .
I don't know what the problem was but it operated fine now.
Maybe a burr on the threads but I don't really know.
Since that one incident everything has been working perfectly.
Terry
Quote from: Steelhead58 on February 17, 2019, 07:04:18 PM
An update on my new Tormek T 8
Since the wheel was stuck on my unit and I had a really hard time removing the stone I have had no issues.
I applied a coating of waterproof grease on the threads and to the back of the easy loc .
I don't know what the problem was but it operated fine now.
Maybe a burr on the threads but I don't really know.
Since that one incident everything has been working perfectly.
Terry
Good to know... thanks for the update!
I have been corresponding with support regarding the EZYlock not releasing. I have not been able to locate a smoking gun, however, a couple possible candidates have arisen which, I believe, deserve further study:
I have been leaving the EZYlock loose and letting the motor do the final tightening. I thought this was the preferred Tormek tightening, however, recent correspondence seems to indicate hand tightening until the EZYlock and the wheel just touch as preferable.Allowing the motor to do more may have created too much torque.
The second thing support mentioned was possible galling of the stainlesssteel. I gather stainless is prone to galling. Support thought that using the ACC ((Anti Corrosion Compound) would serve as a helpful lubricant. Members have reported using grease with good results. We might be able to tune this slightly better by substituting a grease based antiseize compound lubricant for stainless steel to minimize galling.
While I do not believe EZYlock seizing is a major problem, it does seem to be an occasional problem. I am in favor of moderate measures designed to lessen the problem.
Ken
I use a lot of hard machine wax in my workshop, protecting bandsaw tables and the like, as it is there I also tend to use it on cool running threads as a corrosion prevention that dries hard and not sticky. It works, and is in the workshop already.
Interesting, practical thought. Well done!
Ken
Quote from: Twisted Trees on March 02, 2019, 03:01:35 PM
I use a lot of hard machine wax in my workshop, protecting bandsaw tables and the like, as it is there I also tend to use it on cool running threads as a corrosion prevention that dries hard and not sticky. It works, and is in the workshop already.
What type/brand of wax do you use on your tools? I've used wax also, Mother's "California Gold" Carnauba wax on the tables of my tools (bandsaw, sanders, table saw), until recently. I've been getting into woodworking more lately and following some woodworking forums. There I learned to NOT use any wax that has petroleum products in it, which Mother's does. According to these forums, the wax to use is Johnson's Paste Wax. I do not know how much, if any, Carnauba wax it contains, but at least is supposedly does not have petroleum products in it (I don't have any yet). SDS sheet (http://www.my-sds.co.uk/Admin/ViewDocument.aspx?ID=ea93dfdb-70d6-4c79-b00c-db0ecd90875b&primaryReportId=0) is not very informative... Cannot tell if it contains ANY Carnauba.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3862.0;attach=3076)
As I was first reading this, I wondered about using one of the dry lubes, like Tri-Flo.
Rick
I use this one:-
https://www.liberon.co.uk/product/lubricating-wax/
Principle uses are the cast iron table on the bandsaw and the cast aluminium router table although it doesn't rust as such this wax stops resin or other sticky build up as well as allowing my home made jigs move more smoothly in the guides.
Like I said, its already in the workshop, provides anti corrosion and is dry so sawdust doesn't stick and build up.
Got to say I don't really know what is in it, but it works well.
Quote from: Twisted Trees on March 04, 2019, 01:29:55 AM
I use this one:-
https://www.liberon.co.uk/product/lubricating-wax/
...snip...
That looks like the brand of the 0000 steel wool I use for finishing bamboo fly rods. It is important to not have any oils in the steel wool and this is one brand that does not. I wasn't able to bring up any suppliers in the USA from their web site. I believe I got the steel wool from Woodcrafters, in Portland, OR, USA. I'll have to look next time I'm back there.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3862.0;attach=3078)
Rick