I've had my Tormek T8 for a week now. So far, so good. I'm getting geared up to sharpen knives and tools at a local (to me) Farmers Market and needed something with precision and something faster than using stones and elbow grease.
I bought about a dozen cheap, disposable knives from Goodwill and started seeing what damage I could do.
They all turned out rather nice. Very sharp. Except the tips were sort of wonky. This was from my lack of proper technique.
The more I dorked with it, the better I was getting.
Then I re-read the thread regarding the Homemade Knife Rest (HK-50) by Herman Trivilino.
That got my gears spinning again.
So I recreated Herman's design and thus far, I'm liking it. It's almost the perfect marriage between using a jig and free handing.
And it shaves a few seconds or minutes off the sharpening time because I don't have to mess around with putting the knifes in the jigs.
Just set the sharpening angle and go.
So I'm sending a shout out to Herman for creating and sharing the idea. It's working out well for me. :)
Great progress, Y-Not!
For any of you new enough to the forum who might not be familiar with Herman's Homemade Knife Rest, it uses the platform from the scissors jig and is similar to a narrower version of the Tormek platform jig. Being narrow, just the width of the grinding wheel, it allows the user to grind the full length of both bevels without having to reposition the jig. It works with any size knife. Herman has even sharpened a machete with it. Every knife sharpener should have one, including those who normally use the Tormek knife jigs.
I have another suggestion which may help your set up. It is essentially half of the kenjig. Cut a piece of cardboard (rectangular) to approximately 6" by 1 1/4". Set up your HK-50. Cut a half inch wide groove along one side. The length of the groove should be from the grinding wheel to the top of the support bar. This will allow you to quickly duplicate your support bar setting without having to measure anything. Hopefully, once you set up at the farmers market, you will not have to adjust your support bar setting. If you do, this gets you back on target.
There is a little more to this. Try making one. If you like it, post again and I will fill you in.
Keep up the good work!
Ken
Quote from: Ken S on April 19, 2018, 12:37:12 PM
Great progress, Y-Not!
For any of you new enough to the forum who might not be familiar with Herman's Homemade Knife Rest, it uses the platform from the scissors jig and is similar to a narrower version of the Tormek platform jig. Being narrow, just the width of the grinding wheel, it allows the user to grind the full length of both bevels without having to reposition the jig. It works with any size knife. Herman has even sharpened a machete with it. Every knife sharpener should have one, including those who normally use the Tormek knife jigs.
I have another suggestion which may help your set up. It is essentially half of the kenjig. Cut a piece of cardboard (rectangular) to approximately 6" by 1 1/4". Set up your HK-50. Cut a half inch wide groove along one side. The length of the groove should be from the grinding wheel to the top of the support bar. This will allow you to quickly duplicate your support bar setting without having to measure anything. Hopefully, once you set up at the farmers market, you will not have to adjust your support bar setting. If you do, this gets you back on target.
There is a little more to this. Try making one. If you like it, post again and I will fill you in.
Keep up the good work!
Ken
I'll certainly look it up.
Right now, I don't think I could find it if it were in my lap. I've been working the graveyard shift which is not my normal shift. Perhaps once I wake up, I'll see what I can find.
Thanks again!
Here is a link to where it is posted on Rich Colvin's Sharpening Handbook, a useful reference:
http://www.sharpeninghandbook.info/Tool-Jig-KenJig.pdf
Rich's handbook also has Dutchman's tables, the inspiration and trig support I used for the kenjig.
Dutchman first posted his very useful tables on the forum in 2013. We are indebted to him for sharing his essential work.
Ken
Quote from: Y-Not on April 19, 2018, 09:06:03 AM
I've had my Tormek T8 for a week now. So far, so good. I'm getting geared up to sharpen knives and tools at a local (to me) Farmers Market and needed something with precision and something faster than using stones and elbow grease.
I bought about a dozen cheap, disposable knives from Goodwill and started seeing what damage I could do.
They all turned out rather nice. Very sharp. Except the tips were sort of wonky. This was from my lack of proper technique.
The more I dorked with it, the better I was getting.
Then I re-read the thread regarding the Homemade Knife Rest (HK-50) by Herman Trivilino.
That got my gears spinning again.
So I recreated Herman's design and thus far, I'm liking it. It's almost the perfect marriage between using a jig and free handing.
And it shaves a few seconds or minutes off the sharpening time because I don't have to mess around with putting the knifes in the jigs.
Just set the sharpening angle and go.
So I'm sending a shout out to Herman for creating and sharing the idea. It's working out well for me. :)
I call it "guided freehand". ;)
Any issue with scratching the side of the blade? (Most common problem).
Also, post like this require at least one picture. ;D
Quote from: cbwx34 on April 19, 2018, 04:40:28 PM
I call it "guided freehand". ;)
Any issue with scratching the side of the blade? (Most common problem).
Also, post like this require at least one picture. ;D
I'm digging the "guided freehand" term. It works for me. :)
Not sure yet about the scratching. Thus far, I've only been using my disposable blades from the local Goodwill. Don't care if they get screwed up.
Again, I'm saving my good knives until I'm feeling 100% sure that my results are going to be what I expect them to be.
And of course, photos or it didn't happen. Right?
This is my first setup. Still refining it. Need to recess the bolt heads.
I'm using a different type of bolt/screw than Herman did. Not to be different. Just because it's what I had quick access to.
And instead of tapping my scissor rest, I'll be using two carriage bolts and wing nuts.
The carriage bolts might need to be ground flush with the metal plate. Speaking of which, first one to ID what that plate comes from, wins.... I don't know. Whatever is in your pocket at the moment. ;)
Quick, tool free attachment/release.
Quote from: Y-Not on April 19, 2018, 11:25:24 PM
I'm digging the "guided freehand" term. It works for me. :)
Not sure yet about the scratching. Thus far, I've only been using my disposable blades from the local Goodwill. Don't care if they get screwed up.
Again, I'm saving my good knives until I'm feeling 100% sure that my results are going to be what I expect them to be.
And of course, photos or it didn't happen. Right?
This is my first setup. Still refining it. Need to recess the bolt heads.
I'm using a different type of bolt/screw than Herman did. Not to be different. Just because it's what I had quick access to.
And instead of tapping my scissor rest, I'll be using two carriage bolts and wing nuts.
The carriage bolts might need to be ground flush with the metal plate. Speaking of which, first one to ID what that plate comes from, wins.... I don't know. Whatever is in your pocket at the moment. ;)
Quick, tool free attachment/release.
Lookin' good! 👍
Scratching the side of the blade is common with just about any sharpener that has the blade move across a flat platform.
Thanks!
Quote from: cbwx34 on April 20, 2018, 01:55:39 AM
Lookin' good! 👍
Scratching the side of the blade is common with just about any sharpener that has the blade move across a flat platform.
Thanks!
Thanks!
And yeah, I've read about the possible scratching issues. If that becomes an issue, I've got plans on how to deal with it.
Last night, I took a couple of my disposable knives. Dulled them with a file. Started sharpening them again with the modified jig.
I think this is going to work out well. The bevel was constant from heel to tip. The tips were not oddly ground.
A few more test runs and I think I'll try sharpening one of my kitchen knives. They just need a quick touch up but it should be an quick and easy task.
Fingers crossed...
"Mr. Low Tech" here.
How about putting a layer of electrical tape on the blade to prevent scratching. 3M makes a high quality tape, which should be available in a good hardware store. I believe it is called T88. Also, i remember two inch wide electrical tape from my working days at the telephone company.
I would start with the more readily available standard width T88 first.
Ken
See correction in my next reply.
Quote from: Ken S on April 20, 2018, 01:44:28 PM
"Mr. Low Tech" here.
How about putting a layer of electrical tape on the blade to prevent scratching. 3M makes a high quality tape, which should be available in a good hardware store. I believe it is called T88. Also, i remember two inch wide electrical tape from my working days at the telephone company.
I would start with the more readily available standard width T88 first.
Ken
Blue painter's tape is the typical solution... (I would think cost will play a role... especially in volume).
Taping the blade is the common answer, but with the Tormek, it might be possible to put something on the platform, since most of the debris goes into the water trough. (With other platform sharpeners, it doesn't always work, since the platform becomes contaminated from the sharpening).
It'll be interesting to see what Y-not's plans are, (if needed).
I was thinking of the painters tape as well as Duct tape. Sometimes called 200 MPH tape.
It holds up very well in moist conditions.
First I think I'll try giving the piece of metal a coat of Plasti Dip.
Plasti Dip is an air-dry, specialty rubber coating...
If it's too tacky, I can add some bees wax that'll give it the lubrication without mixing into the water or sticking to the stone.
https://plastidip.com/our-products/plasti-dip/ (https://plastidip.com/our-products/plasti-dip/)
Try one layer of thin plastic packing tape on the knife rest.
So far it works well for me, and it's also easily exchangeable once it wears and/or fouls.
My word choice was poor in my last reply. By "blade" I actually meant the extension of the platform. I can understand why people interpreted it to mean the knife blade. I did not mean to recommend putting tape on the knife. My thought was to use the tape as a softer, perhaps more slippery surface for the platform.
With the waterbath of the Tormek, grinding debris would be carried away by the water. The tape would just provide a softer contact surface.
Ken
Quote from: Ken S on April 20, 2018, 07:45:55 PM
My word choice was poor in my last reply. By "blade" I actually meant the extension of the platform. I can understand why people interpreted it to mean the knife blade. I did not mean to recommend putting tape on the knife. My thought was to use the tape as a softer, perhaps more slippery surface for the platform.
With the waterbath of the Tormek, grinding debris would be carried away by the water. The tape would just provide a softer contact surface.
Ken
No worries. I understood what you meant.
I'm finally comfortable with knives. It took, as expected, a bit longer to figure out all the proper jig placement and the right technique (lift and pivot).
Now my bevels are even from tip to heal. :) I'm really glad that I bought a bunch of cheap knives to practice on. I've jacked up a few of them just trying to even out the bevels. ::)
I'm now comfortable enough with the Tormek that if needed, I could go to the Farmers Market this weekend and do okay. Still need more time behind the wheel but it's so much better today that it was a week ago.
Regarding the knife rest jig, it does scratch up the blades. Again, glad to have disposables to test it with. I'm in the process of coating the metal with a soft, rubbery like plastic. We'll see how that works out.
Thanks again to everyone for the support. It's getting better every day.
Okay...
After three coats of plastic dip, I tried the platform again.
As expected, it was a bit tacky and would not allow the blade to slide.
I rubbed one drop of mineral oil onto the now covered platform and rubbed one drop on each side of the blade.
NOW is slips and slides on the platform. No problem.
To check for scratching, I completely colored 6 of my test blades and started sharpening.
None showed any signs of scratching.
And as an added bonus, the oil allows me to press the blade onto the platform and still slip/slide while my hand remains stationary.
And...if that were not enough, my bevels are beautiful!
Even from tip to heel. Maybe not absolutely perfectly even but even enough that the naked eye would not notice.
I zipped through 8 knives in less than 20 minutes. Everything from cleavers, chiefs, paring, carvers to small pocket knives.
All are razor sharp with near perfect bevels.
I'm a happy camper finally.
Tomorrow afternoon, I'm doing my kitchen knives that I've been waiting to do. Finally have enough confidence with the Tormek to give my good knives a go. Stay tuned for photos. Good or bad. :o
I was getting really concerned. If I did not feel good enough to do my own kitchen knives, how would I be able to sharpen a complete stranger's knives at the Farmers Market in 4 weeks?
Fingers, toes and eyes crossed I don't screw them up.
I cannot find herman's Home made support link can someone post the link? Thanks in advance.
Quote from: Hogdog6 on April 28, 2018, 05:16:27 AM
I cannot find herman's Home made support link can someone post the link? Thanks in advance.
Here you go!...
Homemade Knife Rest (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1592)
and video...
https://youtu.be/AcWAkQmoU8c
Enjoy! :)
Maybe someday, this forum will have an option that so many others do. Either subscribe or bookmark threads, so that one can refer/return to them later.
Thank you for the link. Scissors jig ordered.
Hogdog,
I believe you will look back on purchasing the scissors jig as a wise decision, even if you never sharpen a pair of scissors. Look at the Multi Jig. The Tormek engineers realized that this jig had more potential with interchangeable inserts. (In my opinion, it could be even more versatile with more than two inserts.) I think Herman's platform jig has the same multiuse potential.
I would recommend very careful layout and drilling. With such care, it will be easier to fabricate additional platforms for other specific tasks. While these tasks have not yet surfaced as working projects, I as convinced that they will. I can envision special platforms for things like sharpening prick and center punches accurately, more accurately than non machinists could do by hand. That is just scratching the surface.
Enjoy your new platform!
Ken
Will do Ken... Thanks!
I'm considering making it with brass or aluminum with stainless hardware, just for the potential rust factor. Anyone use those materials?
Just learned this yesterday - in a corrosive environment, aluminum and stainless don't work well together. Too much of a galvanic potential unless the dissimilar metals are separated by an insulator. Aluminum and plain steel are better in that regard.
Mike
It would be helpful, IMHO, if you could define what sort of corrosive environment would create the galvanic reaction of which you speak, in a Tormek application. For example, those materials in salt water (oceanic) are known to be galvanic and require sacrificial anodes (most commonly zinc) to prevent corrosion.
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/sacrificial-zincs.asp
Plain water with steel particles and broken down grinding stone particles does not seem, to me, like a corrosive enough environment to be of concern, even if the subject materials were completely submersed. In a Tormek application, the materials could be subjected to incidental wetting on an intermittent basis. Personally, I would not hesitate to use aluminum and stainless together on Tormek jigs and fixtures.
It would be interesting to find out if zinc and stainless steel (in the absence of aluminum) have a similar galvanic reaction, and if not, perhaps that is part of the reason we have zinc jigs and machine housings rather than aluminum.
Rick
I learned the information at a seaplane seminar during a couple of presentations on corrosion. Obviously, saltwater is going to speed up the process, but any wet environment is going to lead to corrosion. However, if the jigs were thoroughly dried after use, and some anti-corrosion substance was used on the screws and nuts during assembly, the jigs would probably outlast the user. The topic came up because some aircraft owners had what they thought was a good idea, and replaced the normal screws on the airplane with stainless, and that increased the corrosion rate. Google galvanic series. The farther apart two metals are on the list, the greater the chances of galvanic corrosion. One of the presenters pointed out that the Boeing 787, which is made of graphite composites, uses titanium fasteners, because graphite and titanium are next to each other in the series. You don't normally think of carbon fiber as being something that corrodes, or would cause corrosion.
Hogdog6 mentioned rust, so I'm not sure of his environment. It was just interesting to me that some metals are worse combinations than others.
Mike
I am presently assembling a 3D printer kit for my grandson. (If you think there is a learning curve with the Tormek, try assembling a 3D printer!)
Jan told me that some sharpeners in the Czech Republic have made versions of the kenjig using the 3D printer, which pleases me.
I plan to make the platform(s) for a Herman platform using the 3D printer with ABS filament. Plastic is softer than steel; I don't think it will scratch tools or knives. It won't rust. I can design a basic model, modify it as needed, and copy paste it to use as a basis for other platforms (including 40mm wide for the T4). I suspect the limits will be my imagination.
Plastic should be strong enough. If I need more strength, I will just reprogram the thickness.
Register fences can be built in, insuring correct alignment with only one securing screw.
Don't hold your breath; this project will probably not materialize soon. When it does, I will post.
Ken
Ken,
Good to hear about your 3D printer project. I'm sure we will all learn and enjoy from your experiences. Please keep us informed.
I think it is cool you are assembling it, presumably from a kit. I looked into building one that way a couple/three years ago. Never pulled the trigger on it, so I am very interested in your experiences with the build.
I think you should make a new topic of it and move it to the General section, so it is more recognizable and accessible.
Rick
Okay...
I've been busy. Spending time with the Tormek.
It seems that the Plastic Dip spray on the platform was not able to handle the work load. After about 30 knifes being sharpened, the Plastic Dip began to part ways with the platform.
While I was optimistic, I was not surprised and decided to go with another option.
I needed something that could be replaced on the spot with minimal downtime.
The Plastic Dip required 4 hours between coats and I did 3 coats. That's easy math. 12 hours waiting for it to cure. Can't do that while working a Farmers Market.
So...
I went with some extra wide Gorilla Tape (super adhesive duct tape).
Cleaned, lightly sanded the platform and stuck it on. This stuff is the stickiest tape I think I've ever had anything to do with. Just getting it off my finger tips was a chore.
Once the tape was on the platform, I pressed it between two 2x4s and let it sit for 30 minutes.
Then I put it on the USB. A drop of mineral oil on the platform and on the blade and I was back in business.
Until...I screwed up and ran an edge against the tape and sliced a nice dog ear into the tape.
I cursed at first then thought, hey, this is a real life experience and the reason I'm spending time with it before the market.
I quickly put a new piece of tape across the platform at a 90 degree from the first layer.
I think I like this even better. it now has a tiny bit of padding (two layers of duct tape) but is still firm enough to use without any noticeable impact on the bevels.
Still testing/practicing and working on muscle memory with the Tormek.
I've got everything I need for the market minus the banner and it's on order and should be here in 7 to 10 days.
Fingers crossed it'll work out reasonably well.
Either this weekend or next I'll get everything I think I'll need together and set it up in the driveway and have a few neighbors come over with whatever they have and do a practice run as if I were set up at the market for opening day. This way if there something I need that I hadn't thought about, I can add it to my list.
Quote from: Ken S on May 01, 2018, 11:59:36 AM
...
I plan to make the platform(s) for a Herman platform using the 3D printer with ABS filament. Plastic is softer than steel; I don't think it will scratch tools or knives. It won't rust. I can design a basic model, modify it as needed, and copy paste it to use as a basis for other platforms (including 40mm wide for the T4). I suspect the limits will be my imagination.
Plastic should be strong enough. If I need more strength, I will just reprogram the thickness.
...
Ken
You might be in for a surprise. I've tried plastic (from a cutting board) on another "wet wheel" knife sharpener I used to own, and it would scratch the sides of the blade... even cleaned off.
I wonder if the film on the scissor jig would scratch a blade? You can buy it separately....
https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/products/9492-sliding-film
... but not sure if it would work any better than smooth duct tape.
Quote from: Y-Not on May 01, 2018, 07:33:21 PM
Okay...
I've been busy. Spending time with the Tormek.
It seems that the Plastic Dip spray on the platform was not able to handle the work load. After about 30 knifes being sharpened, the Plastic Dip began to part ways with the platform.
While I was optimistic, I was not surprised and decided to go with another option.
I needed something that could be replaced on the spot with minimal downtime.
The Plastic Dip required 4 hours between coats and I did 3 coats. That's easy math. 12 hours waiting for it to cure. Can't do that while working a Farmers Market.
So...
I went with some extra wide Gorilla Tape (super adhesive duct tape).
Cleaned, lightly sanded the platform and stuck it on. This stuff is the stickiest tape I think I've ever had anything to do with. Just getting it off my finger tips was a chore.
Once the tape was on the platform, I pressed it between two 2x4s and let it sit for 30 minutes.
Then I put it on the USB. A drop of mineral oil on the platform and on the blade and I was back in business.
Until...I screwed up and ran an edge against the tape and sliced a nice dog ear into the tape.
I cursed at first then thought, hey, this is a real life experience and the reason I'm spending time with it before the market.
I quickly put a new piece of tape across the platform at a 90 degree from the first layer.
I think I like this even better. it now has a tiny bit of padding (two layers of duct tape) but is still firm enough to use without any noticeable impact on the bevels.
Still testing/practicing and working on muscle memory with the Tormek.
I've got everything I need for the market minus the banner and it's on order and should be here in 7 to 10 days.
Fingers crossed it'll work out reasonably well.
Either this weekend or next I'll get everything I think I'll need together and set it up in the driveway and have a few neighbors come over with whatever they have and do a practice run as if I were set up at the market for opening day. This way if there something I need that I hadn't thought about, I can add it to my list.
Thanks for the update... always good to read what does and doesn't work.
(Did you do your kitchen knives?) ;)
Quote from: cbwx34 on May 01, 2018, 10:35:33 PM
Thanks for the update... always good to read what does and doesn't work.
(Did you do your kitchen knives?) ;)
Yeah baby!
I thought that I mentioned that already. Perhaps in another post/thread.
I started with a Cutco knife. Not sure where/when I got it. My son is 15 years old and he's never seen it. It had to be dug up from the bottom of the drawer but I figured why not. If I screw it up, it was screwed up from the beginning.
It turned out very nice.
I then turned my eyes to an Ikea knife.
Not sure why but I love that knife. And it's a cheap replacement if I mess it up.
It turned out perfect as well.
Then...I went to a Shun pairing blade that my wife hates. Not because it's a crap knife but just because of the curve in the belly.
I re-profiled it and it know resembles a mini chief's knife. Sharp as anyone would ever need. And my wife said (confidence booster) that it looks like it came from the factory that way.
Then I started feeling brave and I pulled out the 8 inch Shun Classic.
Nothing but pure success with that one too!
All of my everyday kitchen blades were already fairly sharp and only took one pass with the stone graded to it's fine grade, to get the burr. But still...No funky bevels. Bevels were are even to the eye from tip to heal.
So far, so good.
Worst case, I scrap the whole thing and go back to stones and elbow grease. But as of now, the Tormek is my Farmers Market solution! :)
Quote from: Y-Not on May 01, 2018, 11:46:59 PM
Quote from: cbwx34 on May 01, 2018, 10:35:33 PM
Thanks for the update... always good to read what does and doesn't work.
(Did you do your kitchen knives?) ;)
Yeah baby!
I thought that I mentioned that already. Perhaps in another post/thread.
I started with a Cutco knife. Not sure where/when I got it. My son is 15 years old and he's never seen it. It had to be dug up from the bottom of the drawer but I figured why not. If I screw it up, it was screwed up from the beginning.
It turned out very nice.
I then turned my eyes to an Ikea knife.
Not sure why but I love that knife. And it's a cheap replacement if I mess it up.
It turned out perfect as well.
Then...I went to a Shun pairing blade that my wife hates. Not because it's a crap knife but just because of the curve in the belly.
I re-profiled it and it know resembles a mini chief's knife. Sharp as anyone would ever need. And my wife said (confidence booster) that it looks like it came from the factory that way.
Then I started feeling brave and I pulled out the 8 inch Shun Classic.
Nothing but pure success with that one too!
All of my everyday kitchen blades were already fairly sharp and only took one pass with the stone graded to it's fine grade, to get the burr. But still...No funky bevels. Bevels were are even to the eye from tip to heal.
So far, so good.
Worst case, I scrap the whole thing and go back to stones and elbow grease. But as of now, the Tormek is my Farmers Market solution! :)
You did mention it... my bad. :-\
Thanks!
Even though he is a Edge Pro guy I'm sharing this link because I think some of solutions will work for the Tormek also. IMHO There is some very good information here from someone that has sharpened many knives professionally. I will definitely be including some of these tips in my arsenal of tricks.
https://youtu.be/T9HzJM7IKPg
I thought this quote from another thread (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3376) had some interesting points...
Quote from: grepper on October 11, 2017, 07:25:29 AM
I would humbly suggest that if you want to learn to sharpen knives, get a bunch of cheap sacrificial knives from your local thrift store to practice with and have at it. At least that's what I did. If you are sharpening for other people, no doubt sooner or later you will need to:
Learn to sharpen so that you don't concave the blade at the center.
Learn to sharpen the tip and maintain an even bevel.
Learn to fix a broken off tip.
Learn to deal with chips on the edge that you will see all of the time with hard steel knives like Shun.
Learn to flatten the edge if it's not flat.
Learn all about using the stone grader and how various levels of abrasiveness grind an edge.
Learn how you need to constantly use the stone grader to maintain a particular level of abrasivness.
Learn all about the truing tool and keeping the wheel flat.
Learn how to sharpen curved knives like a bird's beak knife.
Learn how to sharpen very hard steel (RHC 60+) knives.
Learn how to sharpen cheap, crappy steel knives without the edges chipping away.
Learn about toothy vs smooth ground edges.
Learn how smooth edge roll and get dull quickly.
Learn how to sharpen very small blades like pen knives.
Learn how with small blades the knife jig hits the wheel. Learn to deal with it.
Learn about sharpening blades with unequal or single side bevels.
What about serrated blades?
Learn how to sharpen very long knives.
Learn how to sharpen cleavers.
Learn when to bail and recognize knives you can't sharpen.
Sooner or later someone will ask you to sharpen a pizza cutter.
Take a knife, grind the edge completely flat and then sharpen it.
Last, but maybe it should be first on the list, learn about deburring and how important it is.
Learn how much compound you want to use on the leather wheel.
Learn how much the compound smoothes a toothy edge if a toothy edge is what you want.
...
Quote from: cbwx34 on May 03, 2018, 04:15:19 PM
I thought this quote from another thread (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3376) had some interesting points...
Quote from: grepper on October 11, 2017, 07:25:29 AM
I would humbly suggest that if you want to learn to sharpen knives, get a bunch of cheap sacrificial knives from your local thrift store to practice with and have at it. At least that's what I did. If you are sharpening for other people, no doubt sooner or later you will need to:
...snip...
Last, but maybe it should be first on the list, learn about deburring and how important it is.
...
Grepper
From what I've been learning, here but also from the BESS Exchange (http://bessex.com/forum/), it all comes down to burr removal. Without that, the rest doesn't mean much.
Rick
Gday,
Like Y-Not's original post, I've had my T-8 for about a week and the learning curve has been steep!
Firstly, I have never posted on a forum so if I stuff it up I hope you will all understand.
Hmmm, after reading the info in this thread and many others I have made a few errors, but had some successes. In all honesty I was too excited to start sharpening stuff to read everything first and just want to 'play' with the T-8 :)
One thing that bugs me is the 'thump' from the seam in the honing wheel. Is there anything that can be done to smooth this out?
Regards
Scott an Edge
Quote from: Scott an edge on May 09, 2018, 01:41:36 AM
Gday,
Like Y-Not's original post, I've had my T-8 for about a week and the learning curve has been steep!
Firstly, I have never posted on a forum so if I stuff it up I hope you will all understand.
Hmmm, after reading the info in this thread and many others I have made a few errors, but had some successes. In all honesty I was too excited to start sharpening stuff to read everything first and just want to 'play' with the T-8 :)
One thing that bugs me is the 'thump' from the seam in the honing wheel. Is there anything that can be done to smooth this out?
Regards
Scott an Edge
Welcome to the forum.
The bump should go away with a bit of use... if it doesn't, try lightly sanding it with some sandpaper... see if that helps.
Enjoy! ;)
Welcome to the forum, Scott.
I doubt you will have made or will made any missteps with your new Tormek that most of us have not made. Fortunately, the Tormek is a hearty species and very forgiving.
One of my oopses comes to mind. I forgot to lock down my TT-50 truing tool once. My Tormek came to a grinding halt with a gouge in the grinding wheel. I thought I had ruined the truing tool diamond and even ordered a spare.Later, after some quiet reflection, I realized my error and boldly returned to truing my grinding wheel. Everything worked fine; no harm, no foul. It was a valuable learning experience; I have never repeated the error, and hope you will avoid this error. (Don't worry, there are plenty of other errors. :)
CB is right on about the leather honing wheel bump. CB and I enjoy some good natured bantering when we have differences of opinion. Don't tell him, but I always give his posts a serious read and would recommend the same for you.
I hope you enjoy your new Tormek as much as we do. You will find the forum friendly and always willing to help. We are polite and not competitive. Please do not hesitate to post both your questions and your observations. You are among friends.
Ken
Quote from: Scott an edge on May 09, 2018, 01:41:36 AM
One thing that bugs me is the 'thump' from the seam in the honing wheel. Is there anything that can be done to smooth this out?
Regards
Scott an Edge
Yeah, the thump, thump, thump was somewhat alarming/disturbing to me as well.
This is a known issue and is addressed in the manual.
As others have said, it "should" go away in time. As the manual states, it's the adhesive that is used to bond the leather to the wheel and can be sanded down if it desired. Or...Just sand it now if you want. No harm either way.
I didn't sand down mine and I can't tell you when it stopped but it has.
Quote from: Ken S on May 09, 2018, 03:05:51 AM
One of my oopses comes to mind. I forgot to lock down my TT-50 truing tool once. My Tormek came to a grinding halt with a gouge in the grinding wheel. I thought I had ruined the truing tool diamond and even ordered a spare.Later, after some quiet reflection, I realized my error and boldly returned to truing my grinding wheel. Everything worked fine; no harm, no foul. It was a valuable learning experience; I have never repeated the error, and hope you will avoid this error. (Don't worry, there are plenty of other errors. :)
This sounds like it could be a fun thread.
"Tormek Bloopers" or something to that affect. :)
Agreed. That would probably be our topic with the most replies, and also our most useful topic. :)
Ken
Quote from: Ken S on May 09, 2018, 03:58:28 AM
Agreed. That would probably be our topic with the most replies, and also our most useful topic. :)
Ken
I'll start it in the General area. You can move it, make it a sticky or whatever...
Thus far, my bloopers aren't nearly as good as the one you posted but...I've got one or two. ;)