This is CRKT Squid that has a short & curved blade.
As a result of sharpening with the SVM-45, the angle of the tip increased significantly.
Is there a way to solve this?
You can ask Rick Kruger if he has got one of his Pivot Collars for you - they are designed to help with this, and as far as I know he may have a couple of them spare right now.
The Pivot Collar is put on the Tormek knife jig und used instead of the adjustable stop; when you don't need it, you can remove it.
Pictured is an initial design, in the last version you just remove the adjustable stop when and use the Pivot Collar instead.
(http://knifegrinders.com.au/photos/Pivot_Collar1.jpg)
(http://knifegrinders.com.au/photos/Pivot_Collar2.jpg)
more details here:
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3459.75 (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3459.75)
Quote from: SHARPCO on February 23, 2018, 03:02:30 AM
This is CRKT Squid that has a short & curved blade.
As a result of sharpening with the SVM-45, the angle of the tip increased significantly.
Is there a way to solve this?
Technically, that blade at 54mm is too short for the SVM-45... its min. recommended blade length is 60mm.
But, this is where having a pivot
point comes in handy. As wootz posted, the pivot collar, or even cutting down the stock collar is part of the solution... but not the entire answer.
Since the blade is so short, the other part is to clamp it at an angle (to get the clamp out of the way). Since you're now rotating on a point, it makes it easy to follow the shape of just about any blade.
I don't have that particular knife, but I have a CRKT with a similar shape... so I "shortened" it, by clamping it closer to the tip...
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1851)
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1853)
... clamping it "straight" I still might have had problems to sharpen it properly, but angling the knife allowed me to set it so that it stayed on the same line on the wheel. (Like I posted somewhere else, draw a line across the wheel, and set the blade so that it stays on, (or as close as possible to), the line as you sharpen from heel to tip. This allowed me to properly sharpen the knife, keeping a consistent bevel from heel to tip...
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1855)
Also, an alternative for some blades, is to use the "Small Knife Holder" (SVM-00), and clamp it on the handle...
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1857)
... this will allow you to clamp the blade farther back, and should give you enough length you'll be able to do a "pivot & lift" technique to better follow the bevel with the standard stop collar.
Quote from: wootz on February 23, 2018, 05:36:51 AM
You can ask Rick Kruger if he has got one of his Pivot Collars for you - they are designed to help with this, and as far as I know he may have a couple of them spare right now.
The Pivot Collar is put on the Tormek knife jig und used instead of the adjustable stop; when you don't need it, you can remove it.
...snip...
more details here:
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3459.75 (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3459.75)
I do have a few, but have not sent them out to anyone yet. I haven't really done much testing with them yet and only recently got a few of them welded rather than Loc-Tited. As Wootz mentioned, the design has changed, from a collar that is secured with a set-screw that benefited greatly with a flat milled in the side of the jig shaft (SVM-45). The new design uses a clamping collar, thanks to CB and Wootz's suggestions. Much more positive locking and no possibility of marring the shaft and no need for milling a flat.
First is an image of the welded pin pivot clamp collar (PPCC).
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1861)
Second shows it clamped on a knife jig (SVM-45) shaft.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1863)
Third is an assortment, showing the cut down stock adjustable stops that I use behind the PPCC, to some extent as an aid in positioning, but more so there is something more comfortable and substantial behind the PPCC to grip while holding it on the USB. This shows the Schrader blade clamped in the jig. Technically, this knife is also too short for the SVM-45, at a length of 50mm (why do they call it "45" if that is smaller than the nominal knife blade length capacity?).
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1865)
PPCC on the jig shaft showing how it rests on the USB.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1867)
And then, on the T8, set for 15º bevel angle, using Wootz's applet.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1869)
Rick
Here is how sharpening that Schrader 50mm blade went. I started with the SB stone set at 15º bevel angle. After re-reading the extensive thread on whether to "Pivot or Lift", and looking at some of the referenced links, I finally got it about lifting the blade as you work up the curve to the tip.
After grinding the blade on the SB, and coming up with a fairly nice even bevel (no pic of it), I tried to set up the leather honing wheel for the angle, but blew it badly, setting much to low of an angle. After working up to an angle close to 15º, I messed up the edge by over-honing it.
I recently bought a dissecting microscope with a magnification range from 3.5X-90X. I justified/rationalized it as a fun tool for showing my 4-yr old granddaughter the micro world, which she has already been thrilled with. (Did you know bees have hair on their backs?). As a fish biologist when I was a working stiff and a fly fisherman, I know lots of things to show her. I also had in mind examining knife edges.
Well, I looked at the grind pattern (scratches really) and the edge condition. Not pretty. So, I decided to try the SJ stone for the first time, to see how it works refining the scratch pattern and to see if it could salvage the edge. It did a great job of significantly refining the scratches, but I was not able, yet, to repair the botched honing on the edge.
Two photos showing the bevel and edge. The camera I got with the microscope (3MP) is not good enough to get the kind of images I want and there is no focusing ability on the trinocular, which is where the camera mounts. So, it is a trial and error job of getting the camera in focus on the same plane as the oculars. I have already drafted a design for adding a fine focusing feature for the trinocular. Waiting for materials and a tap. I also have a much better camera on order (18MP).
I do not know what magnification these are actually at, but it is clear the grind/scratch pattern is very fine. What I do know is I was somewhere withing the primary magnification range of the 3.5X objective.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1871)
The fine dark line along the top edge is the remnant of the botched honing job.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1873)
Three photos of the finished sharpening, as it stands now. I want to go back later to work out the last of the poor honing job. This is, however, the best job of sharpening I have accomplished so far, at least as far as uniformity of the bevel width at the same time as maintaining the same bevel angle.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1875)
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1877)
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1879)
I did notice for the first time, the asymmetry of the bevel width, I believe due to the blade not being centered in the jig, as has been discussed elsewhere. From prodding CB, I am working on a design to address that asymmetry.
Rick
Quote from: RickKrung on February 23, 2018, 09:56:28 PM
...this knife is also too short for the SVM-45, at a length of 50mm (why do they call it "45" if that is smaller than the nominal knife blade length capacity?).
The clamp is 45mm across.
Quote from: RickKrung on February 23, 2018, 09:56:28 PM
First is an image of the welded pin pivot clamp collar (PPCC).
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1861)
Lookin' good!!! :P
Quote from: wootz on February 23, 2018, 05:36:51 AM
You can ask Rick Kruger if he has got one of his Pivot Collars for you - they are designed to help with this, and as far as I know he may have a couple of them spare right now.
The Pivot Collar is put on the Tormek knife jig und used instead of the adjustable stop; when you don't need it, you can remove it.
Pictured is an initial design, in the last version you just remove the adjustable stop when and use the Pivot Collar instead.
(http://knifegrinders.com.au/photos/Pivot_Collar1.jpg)
(http://knifegrinders.com.au/photos/Pivot_Collar2.jpg)
more details here:
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3459.75 (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3459.75)
The idea of Rick Kruger is wonderful.
If you need to sharpen a squid-like knife, how can you solve this problem without Rick Kruger's jig?
Quote from: cbwx34 on February 23, 2018, 02:55:07 PM
Quote from: SHARPCO on February 23, 2018, 03:02:30 AM
This is CRKT Squid that has a short & curved blade.
As a result of sharpening with the SVM-45, the angle of the tip increased significantly.
Is there a way to solve this?
Technically, that blade at 54mm is too short for the SVM-45... its min. recommended blade length is 60mm.
But, this is where having a pivot point comes in handy. As wootz posted, the pivot collar, or even cutting down the stock collar is part of the solution... but not the entire answer.
Since the blade is so short, the other part is to clamp it at an angle (to get the clamp out of the way). Since you're now rotating on a point, it makes it easy to follow the shape of just about any blade.
I don't have that particular knife, but I have a CRKT with a similar shape... so I "shortened" it, by clamping it closer to the tip...
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1851)
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1853)
... clamping it "straight" I still might have had problems to sharpen it properly, but angling the knife allowed me to set it so that it stayed on the same line on the wheel. (Like I posted somewhere else, draw a line across the wheel, and set the blade so that it stays on, (or as close as possible to), the line as you sharpen from heel to tip. This allowed me to properly sharpen the knife, keeping a consistent bevel from heel to tip...
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1855)
Also, an alternative for some blades, is to use the "Small Knife Holder" (SVM-00), and clamp it on the handle...
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1857)
... this will allow you to clamp the blade farther back, and should give you enough length you'll be able to do a "pivot & lift" technique to better follow the bevel with the standard stop collar.
Good idea.
I would like Tormek to design a new knife jig, or make an additional jig to solve this situation. But it's hard to anticipate it, so it would be nice to make a "Stop" that can be replaced for pivoting.
Quote from: RickKrung on February 23, 2018, 09:56:28 PM
Quote from: wootz on February 23, 2018, 05:36:51 AM
You can ask Rick Kruger if he has got one of his Pivot Collars for you - they are designed to help with this, and as far as I know he may have a couple of them spare right now.
The Pivot Collar is put on the Tormek knife jig und used instead of the adjustable stop; when you don't need it, you can remove it.
...snip...
more details here:
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3459.75 (https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3459.75)
I do have a few, but have not sent them out to anyone yet. I haven't really done much testing with them yet and only recently got a few of them welded rather than Loc-Tited. As Wootz mentioned, the design has changed, from a collar that is secured with a set-screw that benefited greatly with a flat milled in the side of the jig shaft (SVM-45). The new design uses a clamping collar, thanks to CB and Wootz's suggestions. Much more positive locking and no possibility of marring the shaft and no need for milling a flat.
First is an image of the welded pin pivot clamp collar (PPCC).
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1861)
Second shows it clamped on a knife jig (SVM-45) shaft.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1863)
Third is an assortment, showing the cut down stock adjustable stops that I use behind the PPCC, to some extent as an aid in positioning, but more so there is something more comfortable and substantial behind the PPCC to grip while holding it on the USB. This shows the Schrader blade clamped in the jig. Technically, this knife is also too short for the SVM-45, at a length of 50mm (why do they call it "45" if that is smaller than the nominal knife blade length capacity?).
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1865)
PPCC on the jig shaft showing how it rests on the USB.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1867)
And then, on the T8, set for 15º bevel angle, using Wootz's applet.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1869)
Rick
Good job!
Quote from: SHARPCO on February 23, 2018, 11:58:14 PM
The idea of Rick Kruger is wonderful.
If you need to sharpen a squid-like knife, how can you solve this problem without Rick Kruger's jig?
Actually, overlooked the obvious. You can sharpen the knife without any jig... freehand sharpen it.
Short knives are easier to do this way... since you don't have to move your hands much, you can use the USB as a rest/guide for you hands... to help hold the angle, and consistent spot on the stone. (Best done on the horizontal USB).
Another option to consider! ;)
Quote from: cbwx34 on February 24, 2018, 01:35:32 AM
Quote from: SHARPCO on February 23, 2018, 11:58:14 PM
The idea of Rick Kruger is wonderful.
If you need to sharpen a squid-like knife, how can you solve this problem without Rick Kruger's jig?
Actually, overlooked the obvious. You can sharpen the knife without any jig... freehand sharpen it.
Short knives are easier to do this way... since you don't have to move your hands much, you can use the USB as a rest/guide for you hands... to help hold the angle, and consistent spot on the stone. (Best done on the horizontal USB).
Another option to consider! ;)
Or you could find yourself a source for a 12mm ID collar and use it in place of the stock adjustable collar. I believe CB was the first one I saw (he posted here about it). I get mine from McMaster-Carr, but they come in packs of 10 and cost over $100 for the pack.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1881)
A piece of some kind of tubing, rubber, PVC or whatever, slit down the length so it can compress, compressed with a hose clamp might work. Ya gotta get a bit ingenious.
Quote from: RickKrung on February 24, 2018, 02:02:45 AM
A piece of some kind of tubing, rubber, PVC or whatever, slit down the length so it can compress, compressed with a hose clamp might work. Ya gotta get a bit ingenious.
Here is a solution that anyone should be able to do, if they have some very basic tools.
Here is what it took:
Cordless (or corded) drill
1/2" drill bit
From a hardware store:
1/2" x 1/4" PVC (MIPxFIP) pipe fitting reducer
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1883)
Blue painters tape (or any kind of masking type tape).
Drill out the the pipe fitting using the 1/2" drill.
Wrap the SVM-45 shaft with enough tape to make the pipe fitting a snug but turnable fit.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1885)
Adjust to the projection distance you want for the knife.
Done
20 minutes.
Quote from: RickKrung on February 24, 2018, 02:02:45 AM
Or you could find yourself a source for a 12mm ID collar and use it in place of the stock adjustable collar. I believe CB was the first one I saw (he posted here about it). I get mine from McMaster-Carr, but they come in packs of 10 and cost over $100 for the pack.
A piece of some kind of tubing, rubber, PVC or whatever, slit down the length so it can compress, compressed with a hose clamp might work. Ya gotta get a bit ingenious.
The Stop Collar I got, also from McMaster Carr, can be bought individually, and can be found HERE (https://www.mcmaster.com/#57485k69/=1bpkg8l). Not as fancy as Rick's version, but does the job. ;)
I agree with Rick.... just about anything to reduce the pivot point down should work... although it needs to be able to slide along the USB. Another alternative is to just remove the Stop Collar... basically becomes a "guided freehand" setup... but you need a way to insure you stay on the same line on the wheel. (Where the laser comes in). ;) 8)
Quote from: cbwx34 on February 24, 2018, 04:25:38 PM
...snip...
I agree with Rick.... just about anything to reduce the pivot point down should work... although it needs to be able to slide along the USB. ...snip...
I would modify this to "it has to be movable (as in sliding or rotating or pushed) along the shaft and be position-able with a fairly positive stop/locking method.
Rick
Hi,
One solution with short blades is to mount the jig as close to the handle as possible and pivot the handle on the knife upwards while sharpening and not follow the curve on the blade.
Sincerely,
Stig
This morning I was inspired to watch the horse carving video in the Tormek friends on the main website. I have watched all of these videos numerous times, and have never failed to benefit from them. This one seems very oriented to our situation sharpening knives.
The host is one of two sharpeners at a factory where the workers carve traditional wooden horses. He has the luxury of sharpening around sixty knives every week. These knives all start out the same, and their design seems ideally suited for the Tormek small blade holder. They have substantial wooden handles, a straight edge, and are made of high quality carbon steel. Truly they are a match made in heaven for the Tormek, especially when sharpened by a very experienced sharpener.
Most of us are not that fortunate. We must sharpen knives of all different designs and sizes, using primarily only one jig. While the Small blade holder and regular knife jig are an ideal match for the Mora carving knives, most of our knives are not quite as ideally suited for this jig. They are certainly with a tolerance range, however, if we could design the jigs for all of our knives from scratch, we would probably have half a dozen jig variations.
We of the forum are like the pianist who expects the piano to be in tune and well regulated. We are like the dedicated target shooter who takes his high quality pistols to a custom gunsmith to be accurized. We are like the furniture maker who wants his dovetail saw to be custom sharpened for superior results. We are like the gearheads who expect more than factory performance from our vehicles. And, we are unapologetic in this.
Even since only 2009, I have seen so many dramatic innovations and improvements in the Tormek. It was never bad; it is just better now, and, I am quite sure, will continue evolving. While most of the members do not have the expertise and equipment of the factory, we also do not have the constraint of having to generate enough revenue to support payroll. I see the combined ingenuity of Sweden and Members as a dynamic combination.
Ken
Quote from: Stickan on February 26, 2018, 07:18:43 AM
Hi,
One solution with short blades is to mount the jig as close to the handle as possible and pivot the handle on the knife upwards while sharpening and not follow the curve on the blade.
Sincerely,
Stig
True, but this depends on how much curve there is in the belly to tip area. If there's a lot, lifting the handle will raise the angle as you approach the tip, and can also, ever so slightly, start to reshape the tip area to a more 'blunt' tip... (in other words, increase the angle between the spine and bevel, as you look at the knife from the side. It's hard to notice at first).
Quote from: Ken S on February 26, 2018, 01:18:06 PM
This morning I was inspired to watch the horse carving video in the Tormek friends on the main website.
I like that video... I think it's one of the few times, where I've seen a sharpener "touch up the tip" like he does (at the 4:58 mark)...
https://youtu.be/BQI3TsjKnbU?t=4m58s
I do that too (at least on my knives)... gives that tip a little extra "zing". ;) (Doesn't take much at all).
Quote from: cbwx34 on February 26, 2018, 04:45:25 PM
Quote from: Stickan on February 26, 2018, 07:18:43 AM
Hi,
One solution with short blades is to mount the jig as close to the handle as possible and pivot the handle on the knife upwards while sharpening and not follow the curve on the blade.
Sincerely,
Stig
True, but this depends on how much curve there is in the belly to tip area. If there's a lot, lifting the handle will raise the angle as you approach the tip, and can also, ever so slightly, start to reshape the tip area to a more 'blunt' tip... (in other words, increase the angle between the spine and bevel, as you look at the knife from the side. It's hard to notice at first).
The goal will be to get a edgeline that is constant. Some knifes need a crossing between lifting the handle and following the shape of the blade when you are sharpening them. And knowing this comes by experience. Using a marker and see how you need to use the different methods is a good start to understand how to sharpen most knifes.
Personally and after some thousand knifes I've sharpened I am able to use the jig solution we have. I have never felt that I need another solution except with the thinner blades which the SVM-00 jig helped with.
Sincerely,
Stig
Quote from: Stickan on February 27, 2018, 08:34:20 AM
The goal will be to get a edgeline that is constant. Some knifes need a crossing between lifting the handle and following the shape of the blade when you are sharpening them. And knowing this comes by experience. Using a marker and see how you need to use the different methods is a good start to understand how to sharpen most knifes.
Personally and after some thousand knifes I've sharpened I am able to use the jig solution we have. I have never felt that I need another solution except with the thinner blades which the SVM-00 jig helped with.
Sincerely,
Stig
For me, I look at other things, beside a constant edgeline. The example I gave earlier (how is the tip affected?) is one.
Many Tormek users are perfectly content with the standard jig... nothing wrong with that. But for me, having tried different ideas... I think there's room for improvement. Time will tell I suppose...
I'm sure, after the number of knives you've sharpened... you probably are quite comfortable with the standard jig. ;)
I have no doubt that with his experience, Stig has completely master the standard Tormek knife jig. I have no doubt that Steve Bottorff has completely mastered disciplined freehand sharpening after his many years as a sharpener. I have no doubt that comparable masters have produced the same kind of results using half a dozen other methods.
I also have no doubts that the Tormek knife jigs of five years from now will be different than today's jigs, as will much of the Tormek line. Tormek is innovative and continually evolving. What is the top of the class today will be in another class in the future.
I received a modified part of a knife jig from Rick yesterday. It is a quality product, and I look forward to using it. Tormek will continue growing, with innovations both from Sweden and the forum.
We live in interesting times.
Ken
Quote from: Ken S on February 28, 2018, 12:06:51 AM
I have no doubt that with his experience, Stig has completely master the standard Tormek knife jig. I have no doubt that Steve Bottorff has completely mastered disciplined freehand sharpening after his many years as a sharpener. I have no doubt that comparable masters have produced the same kind of results using half a dozen other methods.
I also have no doubts that the Tormek knife jigs of five years from now will be different than today's jigs, as will much of the Tormek line. Tormek is innovative and continually evolving. What is the top of the class today will be in another class in the future.
I received a modified part of a knife jig from Rick yesterday. It is a quality product, and I look forward to using it. Tormek will continue growing, with innovations both from Sweden and the forum.
We live in interesting times.
Ken
I think if a company rep writes... "I have never felt that I need another solution"... there might be room for a little doubt. ;)
But, on a positive note, I also received a test unit of Rick's modified Stop Collar, and am enjoying trying it out. I'll post a review here in a few days, when I try it on a few more knives... but I don't foresee any issues. Very nice job on the welds... everything lines up nicely... he does quality work.
I think if a company rep writes... "I have never felt that I need another solution"... there might be room for a little doubt. ;)
But, on a positive note, I also received a test unit of Rick's modified Stop Collar, and am enjoying trying it out. I'll post a review here in a few days, when I try it on a few more knives... but I don't foresee any issues. Very nice job on the welds... everything lines up nicely... he does quality work.
[/quote]
I see you point :-)
We always want to be the company who brings new jigs and solutions for the customers. The largest task is to make a jig that works as good as possible for a kind of tool instead of having more jigs in our system that would sell in a small amount.
This forum has been great for those who solved a problem and made their own jig or adaption of a jig.
Those who how actually met me in real life here on the Forum, I think and hope that I made the impression that we always are listening to new ideas. And that my interest in sharpening is way deeper than only being a company rep.
So when I write that I never felt that I needed another solution, that's the fact for me personally.
The stop collar do look very nice made and I hope that it will help you with the difficulties you have had with our jig.
Sincerely,
Stig
I am one of the forum members who has had the pleasure of knowing Stig in real life. I live in Columbus, Ohio, which is located between Troy, Michigan, where Affinity Tool, the US Tormek importer is located, and near several major Tormek dealers. In an online interview, Stumpy Nubs asked Stig what he sharpens. Stig replied, "knives........and chisels". That is an honest, telling statement. Stig is a knife enthusiast, who just happens to work for Tormek. He is a friend whose day job just happens to be with Tormek. I always look forward to his next visit to Columbus or somewhere in Ohio.
I found an article on line. It was an old woodturning magazine column by a British writer. An earlier column about sharpening turning gouges caught the attention of Torgny Jansson. Torgny very generously sent the author a gouge jig and everything he would need to sharpen gouges with his Tormek. The jig was the state of the art 185. The patented design is so good that one major manufacturer paid Tormek royalties to use it instead of producing a jig of its own design.
Fast forward: Tormek redesigned this world class jig into the present 186, a major improvement in several ways. Tormek made the best better, substantially better.
In my "Tormek Museum" I have one of the older design truing tools. It was a gift from Rich Colvin. He had used it for many years with his SuperGrind. When Rich upgraded to the TT-50, he immediatly knew his old truing tool should be in a museum. Rich also repurposed his 185 to sharpen round wheel cutters after he upgraded from his long used 185 to a 186.
In 2006, Tormek switched to stainless steel shafts and wet side parts to eliminate a rust problem. (The clone community have not yet made that switch.) Then, in 2010, Tormek introduced the EZYlock shaft, another genuine improvement. I would expect the head of Tormek support to envision a number of future changes while skillfully using the state of the art Tormek equipment.
In the handbook, Torgny Jansson thanked the many Tormek users who have sumbitted suggestions over the years. I believe that tradition will and must continue.
Ken
Quote from: Stickan on February 26, 2018, 07:18:43 AM
Hi,
One solution with short blades is to mount the jig as close to the handle as possible and pivot the handle on the knife upwards while sharpening and not follow the curve on the blade.
Sincerely,
Stig
I have to agree with Stig. I am currently testing the usage of the Tormek knife jig for knife making purposes far beyond the standard Tormek environment as you can see from the attached picture. It seems to be very promising. ;)
The only problem I have is that I cannot flip the jig because of the protruding knobs. The primary bevel angle is 12° and the planed secondary bevel angle should be 18°. Blade thickness is 3.25 mm. The shaping is easy because the steel of the blade is not hardened, it has some 40-45 HRC only.
After raw shaping the blade has to be heat treated (heated, quenched and tempered) and then finished.
Jan
Quote from: Jan on March 01, 2018, 05:55:14 PM
...snip...
The only problem I have is that I cannot flip the jig because of the protruding knobs.
...snip...
Jan,
Does the front knob interfere, or just the larger, taller, rear knob? If only the latter, try using a set-screw that does not protrude much above the level of the jig.
Rick
Rick, the major collision was caused by the black rear knob. After replacing it by a suitable screw a minor collision, caused by the small front knob, occurred.
I have resigned to the flip function of the jig. An associated reason was the fact, that the blade thickness is too big for the Tormek knife jig.
Jan
Quote from: Jan on March 01, 2018, 05:55:14 PM
Quote from: Stickan on February 26, 2018, 07:18:43 AM
Hi,
One solution with short blades is to mount the jig as close to the handle as possible and pivot the handle on the knife upwards while sharpening and not follow the curve on the blade.
Sincerely,
Stig
I have to agree with Stig. I am currently testing the usage of the Tormek knife jig for knife making purposes far beyond the standard Tormek environment as you can see from the attached picture. It seems to be very promising. ;)
The only problem I have is that I cannot flip the jig because of the protruding knobs. The primary bevel angle is 12° and the planed secondary bevel angle should be 18°. Blade thickness is 3.25 mm. The shaping is easy because the steel of the blade is not hardened, it has some 40-45 HRC only.
After raw shaping the blade has to be heat treated (heated, quenched and tempered) and then finished.
Jan
Nice blade, but not as short as the blade in the original post (54mm). Longer blades get easier. ;)
(Also, what happened to your tip)? ???
CBWX, you are correct, this blade is 95 mm long.
The tip will be OK. I am shaping the blade from scratch. The picture in the previous post has shown unfinished first side of a laser cut knife making blank. ;)
Jan
Quote from: Jan on March 01, 2018, 10:50:30 PM
CBWX, you are correct, this blade is 95 mm long.
The tip will be OK. I am shaping the blade from scratch. The picture in the previous post has shown unfinished first side of a laser cut knife making blank. ;)
Jan
Ah, very cool.
Soon you'll be on "Forged in Fire". ;)
Jan,
Even in Nonmetricland where I live, most hardware stores offer a variety of m6 thread options. I would guess your selection is even better in Metricland. When I was attempting to make a small platform jig from a Tormek Torlock platform, I thinned out the top of a hex head bolt trying to unsuccessfully gain clearance. (Herman's scissors based jig works much better.)
Hopefully you can find a workable option.
Ken
ps Interesting project,
Quote from: Jan on March 01, 2018, 10:04:37 PM
Rick, the major collision was caused by the black rear knob. After replacing it by a suitable screw a minor collision, caused by the small front knob, occurred.
I have resigned to the flip function of the jig. An associated reason was the fact, that the blade thickness is too big for the Tormek knife jig.
Jan
Flat head screw for the front. The jig has a conical(ish) recess into which the stock screw fits.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1901)
A standard 6mm flat head screw (I prefer socket head) sits low enough so as to not obstruct the top surface. Pictured is a 1/4"-20 FH screws, which is actually larger than 6mm.
(https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3532.0;attach=1903)
No modifications/machining, just replacement of screws. Don't know about the rest of it. To fix the knife being too big for the jig, I'd just machine down the jig to make the knife fit, but I realize that is not likely an option for you.
Rick