The knob of the jig touches the support and the movement is restricted.
A regular size chef knife can avoid this problem, but the longer knife is not.
Hi,
Mount the jig in the middle of the blade, now it closer to the tip which, and you will not have this issue.
If you sharpen knifes towards the stones direction it is not a problem and its also removes steel faster and gives less burr which is easier to remove.
Thinking of your earlier topics, this would probably help you on several levels. You will get more knifes sharpened and faster burr removal in an hourly sequence.
Best,
Stig
Quote from: Stickan on November 19, 2017, 08:30:05 AM
Hi,
Mount the jig in the middle of the blade, now it closer to the tip which, and you will not have this issue.
If you sharpen knifes towards the stones direction it is not a problem and its also removes steel faster and gives less burr which is easier to remove.
Thinking of your earlier topics, this would probably help you on several levels. You will get more knifes sharpened and faster burr removal in an hourly sequence.
Best,
Stig
Hello, Stig.
Actually, I sharpen knives toward the edge direction. In this direction, this problem did not occur. But I know many tormekers(including Steve Bottorff) prefer away from the edge direction. So I tried this and then found this problem. The picture is directed. As you say, this regular size knife can avoid problems by adjusting the position of the jig. But a large knife cannot solve the problem in this way. :D
Quote from: sharpco on November 19, 2017, 08:44:14 AM
...
But I know many tormekers(including Steve Bottorff) prefer away from the edge direction. So I tried this and then found this problem. The picture is directed. As you say, this regular size knife can avoid problems by adjusting the position of the jig. But a large knife cannot solve the problem in this way. :D
I believe the other part of the procedure with Steve's method is that he sharpens freehand.
One of the reasons for my modified setup, eliminates this issue (see attached picture). You might also look at wootz's "Frontal Vertical Base for the T7" (http://knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop_VB.htm) for some ideas.
You might also try keeping the clamp in the same location as in your picture (or maybe a little closer to the tip as Stickan said), but flip it over so the knob is on top. It might then clear in both directions. (I know at first you'll think... but then it won't clear when I sharpen the other side, but if you try it, you'll see that changing the side the knob is on, can allow it to clear in both directions).
To avoid he collision you can use the inventive solution suggested by Wootz.
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2583.0
You can also use my implementation
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2628.msg13914#msg13914
Jan
As part of my work on a small platform, similar to Herman's, but not as successful (I was using the Tormek platform jig cut down), I encountered a problem with the plastic knob contacting the gringing wheel. I purchased a standard M6 thread hex head bolt. (3/4" or 19mm) The hex bolt sits much closer to the jig than the larger plastic knob. It almost worked, and might work in your case. If you are really close, the hex head can be ground thinner.
I am not disagreeing with the other posters, just adding an alternative. Any hardware should have the bolt. They are inexpensive.
Ken
Quote from: Jan on November 19, 2017, 05:22:53 PM
To avoid he collision you can use the inventive solution suggested by Wootz.
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2583.0
You can also use my implementation
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2628.msg13914#msg13914
Jan
This link has more info on Jan's implementaion (he referenced it in the above thread... so I tracked it down)...
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2635.0
Good stuff!!! :)
Thank you, everyone.
I thought I was doing something wrong, but I'm glad it is not. Not now, but when I need to sharpen knives in a direction away from the edge I will recall this page.