I have a supergrind 2000 that I bought used and the water level does not reach the wheel when full. I know newer machines have an adjustable try. How do people handle this with the older machines? I have a shim under it, but was looking for a better solution.
thanks for any help.
Woodguy,
If your grindstone is too far gone (generally <200 mm, but definitely <180 mm), that happens. Gotta get a new grindstone.
Kind regards,
Rich
I would give the shims a try, and agressively save for a new wheel. As always, I prefer a local dealer. If you purchase online, make sure "free shipping" is really that, rather than shipping included at a much inflated price. Check pricing with a reputable dealer like Hartville Hardware or Advanced Machinery.
Ken
Quote from: woodguy on August 28, 2017, 06:41:39 PM
I have a supergrind 2000 that I bought used and the water level does not reach the wheel when full. I know newer machines have an adjustable try. How do people handle this with the older machines? I have a shim under it, but was looking for a better solution.
thanks for any help.
If the grindstone diameter is less than 190 mm (7.5 inches) then it's too small and that would explain the problem. The shim is your best work-around. You will also have trouble as the machine housing will get in the way of most sharpening operations. For example, when sharpening a knife the handle will hit the housing and you'll have to improvise a technique for getting around that. Not a good experience, especially if you're a beginner trying to learn.
Buying a new grindstone is expensive, but it's a necessary purchase. Also, if you don't have the TT-50 truing tool or its predecessor you will definitely need that, otherwise your new grindstone will be almost useless.
I second Herman's thoughts. I think of grinding wheels and brake shoes as consumables. They are expensive. They also give years of trooper service before they eventually wear out.
Ken
Thanks for all the responses. I should have clarified. The wheel is still pretty good at about 245mm. Your suggestions though got me doing a little more research. I am really embarrassed to say that my problem was that the trough was not attached to the hangers as it should have been :-[ I don't have the original manual and have been learning with on-line videos and tips in this forum. I finally found something that showed the right way to mount it. I should have been able to figure this out, but the help here at least got me looking at the right things.
Lol i had a similar issue. When I bought mine the tray was mounted on one tab and hanging crooked in the back, took me a minute to figure out it wasn't supposed to be like that...... After making a big mess :-[
Glad to hear it was such an easy fix. And, 245 is a great amount left on a used machine that old!
Fyi: If you register your machine with tormek you can access an online version of the manual for free
Quote from: woodguy on August 29, 2017, 04:16:39 PMI don't have the original manual and have been learning with on-line videos and tips in this forum.
You can download the manual at the Tormek website. If you bought a used machine with a 245 mm diameter grindstone you got a good deal. Hopefully you also got the truing tool and the stone grader. If not you'll need them. I also highly recommend that you carefully remove the grindstone and main shaft so that you can clean and lubricate the bearings.
All of the jigs, parts, and upgrades are available and interchangeable between your machine and its newest incarnation, the T8. If you don't have a threaded Universal Support with the Micro Adjust feature it is possible to modify yours with a die and nut. I did it!
https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/spare-parts/other-spare-parts-and-upgrades/us-105-universal-support/
Quote from: woodguy on August 29, 2017, 04:16:39 PM
Thanks for all the responses. I should have clarified. The wheel is still pretty good at about 245mm. Your suggestions though got me doing a little more research. I am really embarrassed to say that my problem was that the trough was not attached to the hangers as it should have been :-[ I don't have the original manual and have been learning with on-line videos and tips in this forum. I finally found something that showed the right way to mount it. I should have been able to figure this out, but the help here at least got me looking at the right things.
Your halfway there. Remember to run the machine for a minute or two before sharpening, as it will absorb water and you will need to add some so it continues to run over the stone (rather then putting in extra and splashing it out).
Excellent point, SADW.
I met Steve Bottorff at a woodworking show in Hartville, Ohio. He was presenting the Tormek. He fired up two Tormeks, which ran all day. I kept looking for water spillage. The amount of spillage for the entire day was minute, and both units were moved around and rotated throughout the day. Steve knew how to properly fill the water troughs. Start with just enough to get the grinding wheel running wet, and add as the wheel initially absorbs water.
Ken
Lots of good advice. I'll register the machine and take things apart to do the lubrication. It did come with the micro adjustment support as well as the original one. Also had the truing tool and a couple of rests and jigs, as well as a cover still in the bag. Seems like it was hardly used. The wheel is nice and square with no nicks. I'll have to pick up the stone grader.
It does suck up a lot of water when you first start it up and adding water as needed without overfilling seems the way to go.
thanks again for the help!
Good plan, woodguy.
Keep us posted.
Ken
Just a quick update. I picked up the grading stone and have been learning as I go. Really does do a nice job. I took off the grinding wheel and checked/lubricated the shaft. Machine must have been used very little. The stone came off easily and the shaft looked like new.
thanks again for getting me started. :)
Woodguy,
Go to the main tormek.com website. Go to my Tormek and then registration. Register your Tormek. Even if it is an older machine) That will give you access to the online edition of the handbook and some other good videos.
Ken
Should have mentioned it in my update, but I did that earlier based on your recommendations. The guide and videos are great.
thanks again
Ken S:
Your advice to woodguy about registration made me wonder whether I had registered my own, old machine. I wasn't able to confirm that I had done so, thought I probably had not and therefore went ahead and registered. I assumed from your post that registration for this forum did not automatically create a registration for the main website or vice versa - may I trouble you to confirm?
Quote from: ega on November 09, 2017, 12:40:07 PM
Ken S:
Your advice to woodguy about registration made me wonder whether I had registered my own, old machine. I wasn't able to confirm that I had done so, thought I probably had not and therefore went ahead and registered. I assumed from your post that registration for this forum did not automatically create a registration for the main website or vice versa - may I trouble you to confirm?
I'm not Ken ???.... but yes, they're two different registrations.
cbwx34:
Thank you for the information from "beyond our Ken"!
CB,
Terrific double entendre; it made me laugh! All I will say is if you ken, you can.
Ken
Quote from: Ken S on November 09, 2017, 10:09:40 PM
CB,
if you ken, you can.
Ken
Yes indeed, and, increasingly, "you can do it if you can see it" (I've been attempting to sharpen a small endmill)
Quote from: Ken S on November 09, 2017, 10:09:40 PM
CB,
Terrific double entendre; it made me laugh! All I will say is if you ken, you can.
Ken
All I can say is... this was initially beyond my ken. ??? ::)