Looks like the T-2 is now avail. in the U.S.?...
(https://image.ibb.co/mRyvZ5/Tormek_T2_USAvail_Edited.png)
Tormek T-2 (https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/machine-models/tormek-t-2)
Sweet! (It's a cool looking sharpener). 8)
I may be getting a third machine soon. :)
Quote from: SharpenADullWitt on August 27, 2017, 06:59:22 AM
I may be getting a third machine soon. :)
Do you sharpen commercially? The jig on the T-2 will require taping the sides of the blades to avoid scratching... just curious if that'll matter to you or not.
It is tempting... ::)
No, not commercially, per say. I do some occasional sharpening for a couple friends restaurant, and have two other chef friends. Between that, and a rather large bonus I just received, I am thinking of this as a splurge item. Buy, try and then try again (bought my second machine figuring my restaurant friends would want their own, this one seems simple enough, they would), to pass it on, to those that need it.
Post removed... link no longer valid. :-\
Post removed... link no longer valid. :-\
Instead of the "post-it notes", would it be possible to use adhesive backed felt, trimmed to fit? I use the least expensive stuff on my platform jig because it works better than the expensive stuff which tends to be too thick.
Quote from: Herman Trivilino on September 09, 2017, 08:56:41 PM
Instead of the "post-it notes", would it be possible to use adhesive backed felt, trimmed to fit? I use the least expensive stuff on my platform jig because it works better than the expensive stuff which tends to be too thick.
I'm not sure... it would have to be changed periodically. I attached a picture of the current setup... maybe you can tell me.
Referring to the picture... the "sleeves" come in a stack that resemble "Post-It" notes (1st pic. top left), (with a strip of adhesive on one long side, just like a "Post-It"). You pull one off (2nd pic.), and fold it in half. Then insert into guide (3rd pic.).
I actually rewrote the review a bit, after reading your question and looking at the review, I realized I'd changed a bit. Initially I would trim the side so it matched the width of the guide, and more adhesive inside the guide, thinking that would be better... but the "sleeves" are the width of the stone (4th pic.), and if you center it, even if it gets pushed back and forth a little by the handle of some knives... it doesn't interfere with the sharpening... and doesn't really matter how much of the adhesive is contacting inside the guide. Once I quit trimming them, they actually worked a bit better... and could get a few knives per sheet without issue, even though the instructions say one knife per sheet.
As a solution it works (as long as you don't miss putting the knife between the paper). ::) Guess the next question would be, what a stack of sleeves will cost vs. just getting some Post-Its and see if they work just as well, (or just folded paper...), or like you've indicated... an alternative solution.
Hope that helps. :)
Edited to add: I tried a piece of paper from a pocket notebook... seemed to work just about as well as the sleeves. Also wanted to add, this problem isn't specific to the Tormek... every sharpener I've used that has a guide the knife "slides" on, experiences this issue. A simple "sleeve" might turn out to be an innovative solution.
Thanks for posting the pictures. It looks to me like that design could be well-adapted to a platform jig for the T4 and T8.
A bit confused. Does it need the sleeve where the plastic is? How wide is the plastic compared to the wheel? Shouldn't the plastic be as wide as the wheel?
Quote from: SharpenADullWitt on September 11, 2017, 03:55:21 PM
A bit confused. Does it need the sleeve where the plastic is? How wide is the plastic compared to the wheel? Shouldn't the plastic be as wide as the wheel?
The sleeve is used to prevent scratching the side of the blade... and yes, it is inserted where the plastic is.
The (plastic) guide is as wide as the wheel at the bottom, but it tapers toward the top to about 20mm. Since the sleeves don't taper, on some knives the handle can hit the sleeve at the top, which will push it back and forth.
Quote from: cbwx34 on September 11, 2017, 05:35:35 PM
Quote from: SharpenADullWitt on September 11, 2017, 03:55:21 PM
A bit confused. Does it need the sleeve where the plastic is? How wide is the plastic compared to the wheel? Shouldn't the plastic be as wide as the wheel?
The sleeve is used to prevent scratching the side of the blade... and yes, it is inserted where the plastic is.
The (plastic) guide is as wide as the wheel at the bottom, but it tapers toward the top to about 20mm. Since the sleeves don't taper, on some knives the handle can hit the sleeve at the top, which will push it back and forth.
So does it appear different then it does in this video? (hoping they release the video in English, soon)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhA4uG9MUPU
They move the sleeve back and forth, there, presumably, to do the same thing without the paper.
Quote from: SharpenADullWitt on September 12, 2017, 03:58:53 PM
So does it appear different then it does in this video? (hoping they release the video in English, soon)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhA4uG9MUPU
They move the sleeve back and forth, there, presumably, to do the same thing without the paper.
If you're talking about the part in the video that starts around the 2:20 mark... they're moving the entire guide. The "sleeve" is the paper that fits inside the guide (it's not in the video). So in referring to your video, on some knives, the entire guide would need to be moved to accomodate the handle... what I'm referring to is the sleeve insert... where the guide wouldn't need to be moved, but the handle can contact the sleeve (since it "sticks out" at the top).
Edit to add: In fact, thinking about the above... it might be why the guide itself is tapered... to try and better accommodate the various handle shapes.
Hi, its Bobl. long time no speak. Haha. I just bought the T2, silly me got it from a danish website, probs. cost more instead of a german site. I paid close on to £700 for it, where as a U.S. site , it would be $599 . My own fault.
Anyway Tormekers, I would like to ask for your help. Where can I get a spare grinding wheel, also new stropping wheel ( Which is great by the way ) . I do feel that the grinding wheel is a little too fine for my liking. What are the thoughts out there?
I have only just received the machine and have been sharpening with it today on my usual knife sharpening route.
any sharpening businesses out there that are using the T2 , please reply as to your experiences.
I am currently keeping a log as to how long the wheel will last and the volume of knives it can realistically go through, before a replacement or replated wheel needs to be used. I look forward to the replies.
Hi bobl.
The T- 2 is not the best machine for a sharpening service. Its made for the restaurant kitchen and small businesses that want an easy and good way to keep their knifes sharp.
We recommend a T-8 for everyone who has or are planning to make money with a Tormek machine.
We have a DWC-200 wheel, 320 grid instead of the 600 grid you have on the machine. Removes more steel but needs to be set up with the DWF-200 after using the coarser wheel.
Sincerely,
Stig
Quote from: bobl on September 14, 2017, 07:39:56 PM
Hi, its Bobl. long time no speak. Haha. I just bought the T2, silly me got it from a danish website, probs. cost more instead of a german site. I paid close on to £700 for it, where as a U.S. site , it would be $599 . My own fault.
Anyway Tormekers, I would like to ask for your help. Where can I get a spare grinding wheel, also new stropping wheel ( Which is great by the way ) . I do feel that the grinding wheel is a little too fine for my liking. What are the thoughts out there?
I have only just received the machine and have been sharpening with it today on my usual knife sharpening route.
any sharpening businesses out there that are using the T2 , please reply as to your experiences.
I am currently keeping a log as to how long the wheel will last and the volume of knives it can realistically go through, before a replacement or replated wheel needs to be used. I look forward to the replies.
I've been experimenting with the T-2 a bit, though not a sharpening business. I would be interested in knowing how you're using it in your business, in relation to other equipment you use, etc. While I agree it's not really designed for a sharpening service, it doesn't mean it can't be used in one, especially in relation to other procedures.
And really interested in what you find on... how long the wheel lasts, # of knives, etc. Would be good info to have.
Thanks!!
thanks Stig.
Quote from: Stickan on September 14, 2017, 08:08:51 PM
Hi bobl.
The T- 2 is not the best machine for a sharpening service. Its made for the restaurant kitchen and small businesses that want an easy and good way to keep their knifes sharp.
We recommend a T-8 for everyone who has or are planning to make money with a Tormek machine.
We have a DWC-200 wheel, 320 grid instead of the 600 grid you have on the machine. Removes more steel but needs to be set up with the DWF-200 after using the coarser wheel.
Sincerely,
Stig
Just a clarifying question...
Is the DWF-200 the normal wheel that comes with the machine, or is this the leather/buffing type of wheel number? (is there two grinding and one polishing wheel, or two of each type of wheel)
Thanks
I have been holding off commenting about the T2. I have never used or seen one. That just changed. I received an email five minutes ago from Affinity Tool, Tormek's US agent. I will be receiving a T2 to test. After testing it, I will write up a review, as I have done for the T4 and T8. I will be interested in comparing my observations with those of cbwx34.
I'll keep you posted.
Ken
ps to SADW
I assume DWF-200 means diamond wheel fine, 200mm diameter.
Quote from: SharpenADullWitt on September 15, 2017, 04:13:23 PM
Just a clarifying question...
Is the DWF-200 the normal wheel that comes with the machine, or is this the leather/buffing type of wheel number? (is there two grinding and one polishing wheel, or two of each type of wheel)
Thanks
Mine came with the DWF-200, and the Specifications and all the pictures show this, so I'm assuming that's what it comes with standard. Like Ken said, I'm thinking it means "Diamond Wheel Fine".
The honing wheel isn't leather, it's a "specially developed Composite Wheel" according to the Tormek website. It looks/feels like a really hard rubber, (but don't know what it really is)... that requires no compound.... kinda looks like there might be some type of compound embedded in it... I haven't spent enough time on it to see if it actually polishes... but does the job of "cleaning up" the edge.
CB,
I am an old book nut. I have at least half a dozen different editions of the handbook. The oldest is entitled, Whetstone Grinding of Edge Tools. Much of it survives as our present handbook. They are readily available as used books.
Of special note for this post is the EA-240. This was an optional extra deburring wheel to interchange with the leather honing wheel. It is listed as "a de-burring wheel with abrasives of aluminum oxide in an elastic binder." This was designed for situations where quicker de-burring was preferred over smooth surface. The EA-240 did not last long, however, the quick connect introduced with it has become standard equipment on all 250mm diameter Tormek models. (I purchased a quick connect as a spare part for my T4; I remove both the leather honing wheel and the grinding wheel often.)
The tapered shape seems logical for resturants with larger knives, especially with the smaller 200mm frame. Leather might be difficult to secure with a tapered shape, and a rubberized wheel impregnated with abrasive would eliminate the need for honing compound. The slightly more agressive abrasive would also leave an edge with some tooth, desirable for kitchen knives.
Tormek has a long heritage of working with knifemakers in Sweden. I believe Tormek would have worked with numerous chefs in designing the T2.
I have a spare leather honing wheel that I reserve for valve grinding compound. It does not leave as highly polished a surface as the Tormek honing compound. It does cut more agressively and works well for minor rust removal. I do not know the long term effects of valve grinding compound on the leather wheel, so I use separate wheels.
I have never seen an EA-240. If I find one, I will purchase it.
Ken
ps The old handbook shows the WM-100, direct ancestor of the Anglemaster WM-200. In my opinion, the new design is a giant step forward.
Good to know.
Would still like to see a picture of the WM-100...can't seem to find one on the internet... maybe you could snap a photo and post it? Would like to see what the differences are... since you've mentioned it before.
Thanks!!
Ken, cbwx34
Thanks, that is what I figured it meant and that would be logical with Tormek. However I know all too well that old saying about Assuming.
Good point, SADW. I received word that my T2 will be shipped on Monday, so assumptions will soon become observations.
Ken
My T2 should arrive later today. After working with it, I hope to start some discussion about diamond wheels and the rubberlike honing wheel. I also want to compare the new knife jig with our conventional knife jigs and do some side by side comparisons with (esoecially) the T4, and T7/8.
I will keep everyone posted. An interesting first for me will be having my review being a "second opinion". (CB having already posted a review) The strength of a forum is examining something with many eyes; I look forward to good dialogue.
Ken
ps to CB: I am having technical difficulties posting the early Anglemaster photos. I made them with my ipad and tried to attach them The forum program uses alt+s to attach. My screen keyboard on the ipad has no alt key. I will try using my wireless apple keyboard. It has an alt key.
Quote from: Ken S on September 20, 2017, 11:45:24 AM
ps to CB: I am having technical difficulties posting the early Anglemaster photos. I made them with my ipad and tried to attach them The forum program uses alt+s to attach. My screen keyboard on the ipad has no alt key. I will try using my wireless apple keyboard. It has an alt key.
Ken
I've never used alt+s to attach photos. Just click on the + sign next to "Attachments and other options, a second box will open, click on "Choose File" a box should appear at the bottom of the
page screen (not page). Click on "Photo Library".... allow access if asked, from there you should be able to find and attach the photo.
(See attached photo!) ;D
See attached. Your medicine is strong!
Ken
Quote from: Ken S on September 20, 2017, 03:13:10 PM
See attached. Your medicine is strong!
Ken
Awesome... glad it worked.
And you're right.... the WM-200... big improvement.
Thanks!