I used one of the original old style knife jigs last night. Evidently the handle was cracked as it was really loose so I tightened the knob and the section around the knob came out.
I am assuming that ordering a replacement knob, since the old style isn't available, doesn't come with the o-ring. So I will need to order an o-ring as well. But does the old style jig have a spot for it, or am I better off just getting a new jig?
Anyone replace one yet?
This sounds like a job for "Super Support". (support@tormek.se)
As a backup, I have both old and new knife jigs. I will see if the handles interchange. I will let you know by the end of the day.
Later
I checked my knife jigs. At first glance, it looked like the new and old handles were interchangeable. The O ring on the newer jig fits in a groove between the end of the threads and the shoulder of the jig. The shafts of the old and new jigs look identical. Both have a groove. I measured the groove on the older shaft is minutely smaller than on the new shaft, but that should not matter.
I placed the O ring on the old shaft. When I tried to thread on the new handle (on the old shaft), the O ring prevented the handle from properly threading.
I then tried to replace the new handle and O ring on the new handle. I had the same jamming problem. As I did not want to pay shipping for a new O ring, I did not force the issue. So, I now have a disassembled new regular knife jig.
Do not lose heart, Advanced Machinery (advmachinery.com), the major US parts supplier, lists only the new O ring version available as a spare part, for both the regular and long jigs. That tells me that the new handle should fit both the old and new jigs. The question is how.
As I originally stated, this is a job for Super Support. I will email them this evening and post the reply next week. Knowing how to assemble a new handle with an O ring should be part of every Tormek nife sharpener's bag of tricks..
Ken
It would help if I had one of each at both places, but I am out and about today, and of course the one I worked with is across town from the other.
I expect a o-ring trick would be lubrication. (maybe vaseline, or mineral oil) I just used my old jig, his jig, out of convenience, because it was closer to where I had to go.
I expect you are correct about the lubrication. I will be interested in reading support's reply.
Ken
Ken, SADW, do not lubricate the O-ring because otherwise you lose its intended "self-locking" function and it will slip. I have had it several times disassembled and the dry O-ring always survived the assemblage. Use reasonable force. ;)
Jan
Outstanding, Jan. Your informative, experienced based post represents the best part of the forum
Thanks.
Ken
Ken, you're welcome. Please do not over-praise me. Otherwise I don't need to try harder when my moderator thinks I'm doing great. :)
My intimate knowledge of the jig is from the time when I was measuring its dimensions for displaying it in AutoCAD.
Jan
Very well, Jan.
Thank you for an adequate job. Maybe a little more effort next time. :)
Your adequate information is still useful.......
Ken
Ken,
Just a thought... You are not trying to put the handle back onto the new jig upside down, right? The rounded top goes on first. If you do it backwards with the cylinder part of the handle first, the handle will screw down until it hits the o-ring and then stop not because it hits the o-ring, but because the threads bottom out. I hate to admit this, but I ask that because when I first reassembled mine I put the handle on backward. Duh! ::)
Jan is right- just apply a little pressure. It should slide right on.
If it just won't press on, try a little lubrication like Super Lube or a little silicone. If it then turns too easily, you can just pull it apart again, clean the o-ring and the inside of the handle and put it back together. O-ring material is pretty tough stuff.
Doctor Grepper,
Once again your diagnosis is correct. We have another case of DUH Syndrome. I was attempting to reassemble the jig with the handle (adjustable stop) backward. The correct direction works fine.
Out of curiosity, I also tried reassembling the older handle (adjustable stop) with an O ring. It did not work. I don't understand why it doesn't work. I hope to learn more about this soon from support. I will keep everyone posted.
Ken
I have wondered if it is possible to combine an older style adjustable stop (also known as a handle) with an O ring. Careful comparison with a small hole gage revealed the difference in the older and newer bores. The bore of the older adjustable stop is straight, with no taper. The bore of the new design tapers very slightly. The opening is slightly larger than the inner end. The taper only extends part way through the bore. The larger opening caused by this taper is what allows the O ring to slip into the bore and to be held snugly enough not to slip. It is a clever application of a simple principle. Well done, Tormek engineering!
An older adjustable stop could be modified to work with an O ring. A simple ream could be made from a piece of steel 100mm x 12mm x 2-4mm thick. (4" x 1/2" x approx 1/8" thick). Grind a slight taper on one end and sharpen the taper. Carefully ream out the open end of the adjustable stop until the O ring fits with mild force. The plastic should work easily. (If anyone actually wishes to do this, post your intentions and I will provide more precise measurements.) I may actually do this someday with my older knife jigs. I like the newer securing mechanism. I also like the new zinc jig, and will probably hold off until the long knife is (hopefully) redesigned in zinc.
I am sure that Tormek will not reissue the now obsolete 100 mm long knife jig I use for my slicer knife. If I mofify that jig, I will do the other two at the same time.
I think SADW made a good call in replacing the cracked handle (adjustable stop) of his knife jig with a replacement and O ring. He will have a working jig at a fraction of the price of a new jig. Unless one can modify his own jigs at essentially the cost of O rings, I think it prudent to stay with a working jig.
Ken
Of note, it arrived a couple of days ago, but only made it over to my parents this morning and it took less then 20 seconds to change. A very small push was required to go over the hump, and I didn't compare the handles, as enough of the plastic had broken away with the knob, it wouldn't have been a true comparison.
SADW,
I would be curious to know your thoughts comparing the old and new handles. Please post when you get a chance for a good test drive.
Ken
My view is if you never adjust the handle, the new handle in the tightest position is fine. If you use it for fine adjustment, as I do, I prefer the older style handle with the knob that matches the one that goes in the support bar at the end. I find it holds more securely then the handle with an o ring.
I have both style handles and agree with SADW.
Good thoughts.
I am relatively new to the new handle style. I will keep an open mind and see how I feel after using both for a longer period.
Another option is to modify the older style to accept an O ring by matching the taper of the bore of the new jigs. My plan is to make a scraper from a hacksaw blade. This would give the convenience of the O ring and the security of the locking screw.
Ken
I took a careful look at the handles (adjustable stops), old and new. The new style can easily be adapted, if desired, to having a locking screw. It's an easy fix by just drilling and tapping a hole in the handle. A home shop machinist could do this without breaking a sweat.
The official locking screw costs $7.95. (M6 thread, 6mm outside diameter x 1mm pitch) For those of us not fluent in metric, 1/4" x 20 tip is close.
I neither recommend nor not recommend this fix.
Ken