Hi there,
I just bought this machine, can anyone tell me more about model & year?
(http://img1.kapaza.be/desktop_images/46/460530023600884.jpg)
I already like it here ;-)
tx
steve
Welcome to the forum, Steve.
Do a google search on "register your Tormek" It should pull up a form for you to fill out and email to Tormek. Once your machine is registered, Tormek can tell you the age and model.
Ken
Tx Ken!
done!
steve
Hi,
It´s a SA-250. Came with a natural stone. If it has flat sides and not dished were the label is its a natural stone. Its from the mid eighties.
The honing wheel is rubber with Aluminum oxide grid and are not to be used with the compound. Removes the burr faster but will not give the same sharpness as the leather wheel.
The jig for the chisel and handplaneblades is called SVH-60 and was the model we had before we made the EE-76, its really handy when you have shorter chisels as it´s base is closer to the stone. You need to be careful when mounting the tool in the jig as it does not have a guide in it.
The horizontal base and supportbar was mounted some years after it was first bought.
Best,
Stig
Hey Thanks Stig!
steve
Well done, Stig.
I noticed the square construction and thought the horizontal sleeves were added later. The natural stone and different rubber honing wheel escaped me.
Out of curiosity, I see where the present leather honing wheel and compound can produce a bevel with a higher polish. This would certainly be superior for tools like chisels. for knives used for slicing, would the older rubber and abrasive combination give a final edge with more tooth? If so, is the rubber wheel interchangeable with the T7 leather wheel and still available as a spare part? (i am thinking it might work better than the valve grinding compound I have been testing with the leather wheel.)
Ken
"SA-250 from 1984. The first self powered model with honing wheel and universal support."
It's pictured on this page: http://tormek.com/international/en/about-tormek/the-tormek-story/
https://www.google.ca/search?q=tormek+sa-250&lr=&as_qdr=all&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CD4QsARqFQoTCKjy1beCkMcCFYRyPgody8cK8w&biw=1222&bih=655&dpr=1.25
Hi,
the stone on it (when I purchased it, is a SG-250) is that a natural stone, or rather after sales?
what do you mean by 'The horizontal base and supportbar was mounted some years after it was first bought.'
was this a standard upgrade or rather DIY ?
I guess adding a leather honing wheel is possible?
tx!
steve
I'm not expert on Tormek history, but...
From: http://tormek.com/international/en/about-tormek/the-tormek-story/
"The initial natural sandstone from Gotland has been replaced by a vitrified aluminium oxide grindstone specially developed for water cooled grinding at low speed."
The SG-250 is the new version of the stone that replaced the original natural stone.
If you check out this picture of the SA-250,
http://img.tradera.net/images/978/209633978_afee27ea-3170-4742-bb13-43a9b1790fa5.jpg
it only has a base for the control bar to extend vertically from the top of the machine. The base that holds the bar horizontally from the top was added later. The SG-250 is a Tormek stone. I'm guessing that the horizontal base that was added was a Tormek product. The reason it's a guess is that the present day horizontal base has two thumbscrews and the one pictured on your machine has one. Maybe the one with a single thumbscrew was an earlier model.
I don't know about the hub size, etc., on the leather wheel is the same as the rubber one.
hey guys, today, after working for an hour (stopped regularly) on the machine, it suddenly stopped spinning, is it possible I burned the machine? I'm not a technical dude at all ;-)
or will it get back to life after cooling down? I noticed some rubber tear down inside the honing wheel, dunno if this was there or new....
tx
steve
Steve,
Because of the age of your machine, I suggest you contact Tormek support directly (support.tormek.se). Although we are well intentioned, to the best of my knowledge, you are the only member of the forum using that vintage Tormek. The factory people in Sweden should be more familiar with your particular machine (motor, drive, etc.) than we are.
Ken
OK tx Ken,
I feel honoured to be the only one on a vintage Tormek, I guess I deserve a price, no? ;-)
tx
steve
Grepper,
The horizontal base with one screw was the earlier Tormek model.
Ken
One of my machines is about 11 years old and is green and has the "not square" frame for lack of a better term. The other is of unknown age and has a square frame and is also green. This machine is from the mid 80s according to Stig. So, the machines were blue, then green and now blue again. Right?
Correct!
Best,
Stig
Jeff, you can actually see this model is the second model, but the first motored model, via this page:
http://tormek.com/international/en/about-tormek/the-tormek-story/
Hey guys, found the solution for the problem on my machine in the tormek handbook,
the motor was running but slipping on the black rubber of the honing wheel, sandpaper did the trick...
tx!
steve
Good job, Steve.
Keep us posted.....
Ken
Well...
the problem seemed a bit more serious, as the metal pin coming from the motor was practically not spinning when pushing against the stone.
After mailing with Pontus Gyllby from Tormek, explaining my problem, he suggested to send me a 'similar' capacitor, one they had in stock. What a great service for a 2-3-4nd hand Tormek from '85. Needed some time to find my soldering iron, but it did the trick!
what a great service! I got the impression the stone is spinning (much) faster than before (it was not identically the same capacitor), could that be a problem?
tx guys, thank you so much Tormek after Sales...
steve
Steve, the major role of the capacitor is to start the single phase induction motor. The capacitor simulates the second phase.
It is strongly recommended to replace the capacitor by one with the same parameters (capacity and voltage). Capacitor determines, among others, the heat power produced by an idle running motor. It is known fact, that the temperature of an idle running motor is larger than the temperature of a loaded motor.
Jan
OK, tx Jan,
but I guess the one Tormek sended me couldn't do any harm, or would you suggest to look further for the same model for the future?
tx
steve
I would think that the one Tormek sent you would be the right one for your unit. If you are at all concerned you can check with Tormek to make sure. The capacitance needs to match, but the voltage need not. In fact, a capacitor that's capable of handling a higher voltage might actually work better than the original.
Steve, only the capacity and voltage of the capacitor are important, not the model/manufacturer. There are of course some reasonable tolerances 5 to 10%.
As Herman said, the capacity needs to match (must not be higher), while the voltage may be higher (must not be lower).
The motor will run even without a capacitor, but you will have to start them by hand in the desired direction. The power of a motor running without a capacitor will be lower.
Jan