I thought I had a good understanding of the SE-76 square edge jig. Most of my sharpening is chisels and plane blades. I have probably studied the handbook and instructional videos as much as anyone on the forum. However, I was surprised as I watched a Tormek instructor place a chisel into the jig. He placed the chisel into the side opposite the square shoulder and tightened the clamp just enough to allow the chisel to be slid to the opposite side (with the square shoulder). He then tightened the knob by the square shoulder.
I had always just placed the chisel next to the square shoulder and tightened both knobs. Upon reflection, the sliding method could be more accurate. The tightening is always done near the point of contact with the chisel. I will modify my technique to include this slide.
I checked my online version of the latest handbook and found no reference to this. I tried to re-watch the sharptoolsusa videos to see if this slide method was mentioned. I was unable to watch them due to some frustrating issues between apple and adobe flash. If a Windows user would check on this I would be grateful.
I did find the slide method demonstrated in the short video on the tormek.com website. The video was describing the SE-76 under the "grinding jigs" tab.
I have not noticed an out of square problem using my old method. However, the sliding method does seem more accurate. This old dog can recognize an improved trick.
Am I the only forum member who did not notice this before?
Ken
ps be sure to watch the latest "Tormek friends" video on the tormek website. I enjoyed it.
Your lucky, I am currently on a Window's machine (run Linux at home).
Jeff's video doesn't have that newer jig, but the older one where you did it all on the one side. I pointed out that difference when giving my father the older jig. (I caught it when I got the newer one with the hand tool kit)
Good point. My thought was more about balancing the tightening than the square shoulder. I think a small square should be used on both sides of the blade just in case the blade itself is not parallel.
Ken
That was also new information for me as well, Ken. I've always been aware that uneven tightening of the two knobs could lead to off kilter grinding and I've always tried to make certain I tightened the part to be ground evenly. I'll definitely use this technique next time I sharpen.
I wonder now if the guy who started the 1/4" chisel thread a few months back could have benefitted from this instruction?
possibly but don't forget there was actually a fault with his machine that was the true cause of his problem.
Maybe I have been watching too many BBC murder mysteries; I wasn't aware the forensic report had come in on that machine.
Ken
I think I recall that procedure. It's just a way of getting that clamp close to the proper setting. The same can be accomplished with an experienced eye. This adjustment is critical, but one must also watch the edge to make sure it stays square during the grinding.