I stumbled on to an easy way to sharpen cleavers without the need for an extended toolrest. By using the tightening knob of the knife jig held against the tool rest, it gives one that extra distance needed for those wide cleavers. The only modification needed is to cut a piece off of a 1" wooden dowel and glue it to the other side of the knife jig in the same spot to make a pseudo knob. The photos should be self explanatory. (I hope) Works great. I sharpened all 4 of my wife's cleavers in less than half an hour. The 1000 grit works the best for me and removes steel surprisingly quickly. I hope I did the photobucket thing correctly...
http://s48.photobucket.com/user/khamill2/library/ (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/khamill2/library/)
Was it the same way for both style cleavers, or is this just for the meat or Chinese produce cleavers?
Well, all of our cleavers have Chinese writing on them so I guess they are Chinese cleavers. They range in width from 2-7/8" to 3-1/2". One of them is quite thick and is used for chopping meat that has bones in it. One of them has a straight edge and the other 3 have slight "smiles" to them. I hope that is the info you want, cause I'm not really sure what you meant by "both style cleavers".
The Chinese style (also used in Japan, and who knows where else), are typically thinner, and square all the way around, and not used for meat, but vegetables. Meat cleavers are thicker and can be straight or have the slight smile. I was thinking the knob might act as more of a pivot/problem on the thinner square produce cleavers (verses the flat section of the handle riding against the bar).
Thanks
Actually, now that you mention it, I remember noticing that because of the flat part of the jig riding against the bar, it was much easier to keep a smooth even stroke across the entire blade. Only on 1 cleaver did I have to lift and pivot the jig a little. On the others, just tilting slightly left or right while still flat on the bar accommodated the slight smile. I should have mentioned that. Thanks for pointing it out.
lilrascal your really right!!
lilrascal your really right!!
Quote from: michael clark on October 30, 2014, 05:24:24 PMOnly the kubotan knife (http://www.weapons-universe.com/kubotans.htm) knows what goes on in the heart of a pumpkin.
"Cleaver" idea :D
However, the jig will not sharpen the same angle on both sides as the centre of the jig will be moved using it where the knob is.
So if that is necessary, use the knob as stop but mount the knife twice, first do one side, turn it in the jig and sharpen the other side.
Stickan
Quote from: Stickan on January 07, 2015, 08:02:36 AM
"Cleaver" idea :D
However, the jig will not sharpen the same angle on both sides as the centre of the jig will be moved using it where the knob is.
So if that is necessary, use the knob as stop but mount the knife twice, first do one side, turn it in the jig and sharpen the other side.
Stickan
Hi Stig,
I'm not quite sure if I understand correctly.
If the knife is flipped in the jig, then there is no need for the additional knob. One can use the same original knob as a guide.
However, doesn't flipping the knife in the jig causes a change in the bevel angle? Or draw a line along the edge of the jig to remount in the same position will ensure same bevel angle?
Or butt the spine against the pins?
"If the knife is flipped in the jig, then there is no need for the additional knob. One can use the same original knob as a guide. "
If you mount the cleaver in the bottom of the jig you will get the same angle on both sides even flipping the cleaver around.
The distance from the support bar to the stone is where you set the angle.
Stig
Quote from: Stickan on January 27, 2015, 11:01:55 AM
"If the knife is flipped in the jig, then there is no need for the additional knob. One can use the same original knob as a guide. "
If you mount the cleaver in the bottom of the jig you will get the same angle on both sides even flipping the cleaver around.
The distance from the support bar to the stone is where you set the angle.
Stig
Thanks Stig. So is it correct to say in this case, there is no need for the additional knob? Just making sure I understand correctly. Thanks.
Just sharpened a cleaver using this method.
Still learning. There's some double bevel near the tip and heel despite watching like
a hawk to ensure the water flow is even. Need more practice.