Gidday you blokes,
I am new to the forum and would like to ask about a Super Grind 2000. Mine is the green model.
I was extremely fortunate in picking it up very cheaply with a swag of fixtures.I have it stripped at the moment as the powder coating was falling off in strips.
Is there a paint code code for it and can the stickers be replaced as the paint stripper ate through the masking tape and made them all wrinkly.I have etch primed it but not been able to locate paint in the shade of green it was originally.
Also I am hoping that it may take the drill sharpening fixture as the mounts appear to be the same as the current models.
Thanks in advance for your answers
Ozwelder
Stickers may be available from the Aussie importer, but they're old, so it's a gamble he'll have them. There's no international paint code. I would take a flake in to a good auto body paint supplier and let them get close.
Mounts are exactly the same...you're good to go on the drill bit attachment.
Why are you interested in matching the paint color? The new ones are blue.
Of course, I'm sure you plan on using a good primer.
It's a shame about the stickers getting ruined.
Thanks fellas,
I chase up the Aussie agent for for Tormek.
Many other tools and benches in my workshop are a Ford Engine blue so I suppose I'll go with that.
Oz
Hi fellas,
This is my first post and what do you expect from a new member? You are all right! To ask questions! LOL
Sorry i was lazy (but quite excited) to browse the site for question which might have been answered before.
Anyways, I am from the Philippines, and like most of you here, a woodworker (a budding one). I recently acquired the model Supergrind 2000, 2nd hand but looks pristine though used. I am wondering if the accessories for the T7 will still fit this model. Also, i have read elsewhere in the forum that these supergrind 2000 grinding machines have different production years. So can you help me how to check which year mine was made?
By the way, the only accessory my unit has is a the standard chisel honing jig. I am planning on getting the truing tool, planer and jointer holder jig available on amazon. i want to be sure if these jigs will still fit my old Tormek.
thank you very mucho!
Yes, all of the accessories and jigs for the T-7 will fit the older 2000. The truing tool is a must-have. If your grindstone is out of true you'll never be able to square ends on your chisels. Also, when you grind on an out-of-true grindstone it becomes even more out of true.
Does your universal support have threads on one of the shafts? Is there a horizontal mount for your universal support? As you face the machine with the top of the grindstone turning towards you, is the switch on the side nearest you, or is it on the back side? If the switch is on the back side you have one of the oldest machines, less old if you have the horizontal support, and newest if you have threads on the universal support.
hi Herman,
i appreciate very much you chiming in..
i am on duty (as a pathologist) right now and when im back at my shop, il be taking pictures of the tool for you and everyone else to see..
until then...
thanks again.
Welcome. I would go with the Ford Engine Blue color. I suppose it is natural to regard an expensive object like the Tormek as precious. I was the same way. Eventually it evolved from precious to useful. Useful is not as pristine as precious, but it is a lot more practical and fun. Keep it reasonably clean. Don't leave the water bath full between sessions. Use your Tormek. Should you reach the point where you wear out a wheel, your Tormek will be much more useful because of your experience.
Enjoy and keep posting.
Ken
as promised here is mine..cant find the serial number though..turned it upside down and could not see any label or sticker
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/IMG_0454_zps2a67c16d.jpg)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/IMG_0453_zpsc5d34fe6.jpg)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/IMG_0455_zps11cc4aca.jpg)
I think its a must to have the truing tool right?
I will purchase it together with the honing compound. that should me settle somehow..
huh..my pics wont show...are there a number of posts required before I will be able to post pics?
I am using photobucket as file sharing site.
thanks folks!
Quote from: violaine on November 27, 2013, 02:19:39 PM
as promised here is mine..cant find the serial number though..turned it upside down and could not see any label or sticker
It looks like you have a relatively recent version of the 2000. I say this because you have the threaded universal support. I don't know if the new version of the square edge jig came along after or before that. I can see the jig in your photo but I can't tell if it's the newer SE-76 or the older version. If it's labeled SE-76 it's the newer jig, which came out in 2007, or thereabouts.
Quote from: violaine on November 27, 2013, 02:19:39 PM
I think its a must to have the truing tool right?
Absolutely, yes. Without it your precision Tormek machine is pretty much useless. It certainly cannot be used with the precision for which which the jigs were designed.
Quote from: violaine on November 27, 2013, 02:25:34 PM
huh..my pics wont show...are there a number of posts required before I will be able to post pics?
I am using photobucket as file sharing site.
thanks folks!
Not sure if there's a minimum number of posts required. I use photobucket, too. You have to copy the link, and then paste it into your message, IIRC.
hi again..
this morning I tried the machine..let me write about it in some details.
well the stone is almost 250mm...on close inspection, it is not flat at all..maybe a mm or two, there is a visible concavity at the center..
I filled up the water trough to the desired level..
(btw, I put it on top of my table saw (quickly I realized I need to put some rag underneath in case this stupidity becomes a Murphys law in the making..well I got no nearby worktable in the first place within my reach)..
turned on the tool, heard some minimal noise while the stone is circling.. I think its just ok (is it really ok?)
lo and behold, the water quickly disappeared...ah yes it was absorbed by the stone..so I got about half a liter of tap water and instilled it in the trough..waited a bit and instilled more.
then I turned it on again, slowly lowered the edge of the 1/2" nicked chisel edge..then I have found out that the stone is not really flat...in fact it was going up and down about a mm or 2...I observed the spindle while it turned and somehow it was steady (a relief)...so I guess before I can truly make a sharp edge, I needed the truing tool...one month is the waiting time from the States to here..waah!
btw, the square edge jig it came with has no sticker and when I looked at the picture of its current version at Amazon, mine has no thumbscrew in the other end..i also wonder about the function of the separate 3rd plastic knob..is it to fix the square jig to the tool rest?
I am anticipating your feedbacks...I am the newest troglodyte in this tormek community...forgive me.
thanks in advance.
Quote from: violaine on November 28, 2013, 02:52:47 AM
(btw, I put it on top of my table saw (quickly I realized I need to put some rag underneath in case this stupidity becomes a Murphys law in the making..well I got no nearby worktable in the first place within my reach)..
Mine is on top of my table saw, but I have a sheet of plywood on top of the table saw, plus a water-proof tray with a lip all the way around on top of that. I hear that a cafeteria tray works well, but I've never tried using one.
QuoteI needed the truing tool...one month is the waiting time from the States to here..waah!
Have you checked the Tormek web site for a dealer closer to you? http://tormek.com/international/en/resellers/
Quotebtw, the square edge jig it came with has no sticker and when I looked at the picture of its current version at Amazon, mine has no thumbscrew in the other end..i also wonder about the function of the separate 3rd plastic knob..is it to fix the square jig to the tool rest?
Not sure. Mine is the older version of the square edge jig. It has only two knobs. The newer SE-76 appears to also have two knobs, plus two more on the stops. Can you post a picture of yours?
while i wait for the photobucket to be sane again...
id like to ask as a noobie, shall i just let the stone dry after that fateful test run? i removed the remaining water in the trough..
there is not a single distrubutor here in the Philippines...as you know, fine woodworkers in this country are few...and if you ask some backyard woodshops who makesdoor jambs and solid panel doors about moisture meters, they will say "what?"
i cannot wait for the truing tool! hmf..
...and after the truing the stone...can i sharpen my chisels right away? or i need a stone grader?
can a two sided generic honing block do the trick?
thanks
You will be able to grind a chisel right away, but without the stone grader you won't be able to get a fine finish.
You have to be able to take the grindstone back and forth between the course (~200 grit) and fine (~1000 grit). I don't know how to do that without the stone grader. I would guess you could accomplish it with water proof abrasives, but it would be easier to just order the stone grader along with the truing tool.
You may want some other jigs, too. I mean, you can free hand stuff, but with the square edge jig you can't do much more than wood chisels and plane irons. Although we did mess around a little bit sharpening some knives using only my homemade knife jig and the square edge jig.
Quote from: violaine on November 30, 2013, 01:58:20 AM
can a two sided generic honing block do the trick?
It might be worth a try.
The problem, though, is that without experience that's going to be an extra variable you'll have to juggle as you climb the learning curve.
thanks for your input Herman, if the learning curve is steep for this Tormek, i am rooting now to buy the stone grader..good thing is, its relatively within my pockets reach.
i have a NOS marples basic 8 piece turning tools and of course, what are turning tools if you dont a lathe..so i guess, next time around, if my wallet is fat enough, il also get the accessories to sharpen them...and of course the lathe.
incidentally, i am getting some serious stuff like a second hand japanese 12 inch jointer which is being refurbished by a friend, in which case, i will be needing the jig to sharpen its blades..
i didnt know woodworking is also about tool collecting...huhu...
hey guys,
sorry to hijack this thread by asking too many questions...if the admins feel that I need to make a separate thread for these questions then id be glad to make one and transfer all your thoughts there..
anyhoo, here are they...
firstly, id like to ask if the two ends of the jig fits snugly to their slots? mine is somewhat deflected and there is some effort to push it into their slots (but this is no big deal..), once they are in place, I can tighten the microadjust wheel with no hassle.. I took a photo and I hope it shows to you the problem.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/DSC_4661_zpsbcdb9c4a.jpg)
another thing, like I asked before, my stone is going up and down a millimeter or two while running..i tried to sharpen partly a 1/2 chisel with nicks and again I took a photo of the edge and Id like to show you that the sharpening is at an angle...maybe because the stone is not yet trued? maybe so...
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/DSC_4657_zps7accb355.jpg)
well those are just two questions...
here are some pictures of my machine and showing you the state of the leather strop when I received it...
here with a light shone with its fibers lifted due to dryness from disuse (or from hibernating for a long time from the original owner)...(I learned many things about how not to saturate the leather with oil in one thread...)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/DSC_4668_zpsd635ea4a.jpg)
I am also showing here the state of the stone...
I shone a light on one edge and you will notice a shallow concavity on the center of the stone.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/DSC_4670_zps78da687f.jpg)
I changed the angle of the lens and we can see here some grooves on the surface of the stone..i guess this really needs some truing...
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/DSC_4669_zps2ab5dd38.jpg)
and finally, here is my square edge jig..the older version.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/DSC_4658_zps9877b135.jpg)
Thanks for the great pictures Violain. Your square edge jig is the same as mine. I've never been able to get a square end on a chisel using that jig on an out-of-true grindstone, either.
IIRC you mentioned that this grindstone has a full diameter of almost 250 mm. Looking at those photo's, I'd say this grindstone has never seen a truing tool. It may have been used as a dry grinder, too, although that would have been a flop! Whoever had this machine did not have the respect usually seen in a bonafide purchaser.
Hi Herman,
your inputs although short in form and in bursts are pregnant with an experienced user ideas.
well yes, I asked many times from the previous owner if it came with some other accessory...one thing that is going to surprise you though, I asked him again one more time today and he told me it was given as a gift by an American expat who now lives in the States for good..so practically, this guy from whom I bought the tool had no real idea of how it operates..you were absolutely right that perhaps 100% of the time, the stone was used dry as evidenced by the ridges on the surface.
thanks..
until the truing tool has arrived, i have no more questions to raise at the moment..
Thanks. I forgot to mention that your honing wheel looks like it's toast. Was it left somewhere very hot? Like in an attic during a long summer somewhere? You may have to buy a new one of those as well. Oh, and don't forget the tube of honing paste.
Toasted? oh no..how can you tell?
buying a new stone is like buying a new machine! ; (
Your honing wheel is just fine. The lighting makes it look more dramatic than it really is. Just apply some compound and go to work. You do need to true your grindstone, though.
Quote from: violaine on December 05, 2013, 01:22:05 PM
Toasted? oh no..how can you tell?
buying a new stone is like buying a new machine! ; (
Not the grindstone, the honing wheel. But Jeff says it's fine so I'd just follow his advice.
You will need that honing compound. http://tormek.com/international/en/accessories/other-accessories/pa-70-honing-compound/.
The honingwheel needs some oil I guess, and as Herman writes, some compound :D
ah yes , the honing wheel it is...
i have a Norton sharpening oil..would this be ok for the leather strop wheel?
together with the truing tool, i have ordered the honing paste.
thanks!
At this point, I wouldn't worry about using any oil. Just use the honing compound. Looks like it has already been well oiled.
thanks much guys.
i cant believe i am talking to you guys and its ok even if its not in real time..so until then.
hah, after the long wait...I finally got the truing tool...
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/Tormek/DSC_5203_zpsb0744b14.jpg)
the instruction was clear and brief...It took me about 30 minutes to finally flattened the stone...the initial spun was too much vibration...perhaps due to the unevenness of the stone...after about 10 spins, the surface became flat..(although I purchased the dressing stone, I went straight away to honing a chisel...)
and for 3 minutes or less and here is the first bevel...
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/Tormek/DSC_5215_zps9bde8da3.jpg)
and another minute or two, the next bevel..
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/Tormek/DSC_5219_zps06f82935.jpg)
what a wonderful sharpening tool!
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/Tormek/DSC_5223_zps0c0d1cb0.jpg)
btw, I used this to soften the "scorched" leather strop before applying the honing paste...is this ok?
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/DSC_5227_zpsf7a52d86.jpg)
I recalled I haven't cleaned up the water trough...got pictures of the "mud" after truing the stone..the previous owner must have used the tool incorrectly (dry honing)...
taken when still wet...
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/DSC_5225_zpsc0e9b7d6.jpg)
and when dried up...it must weight around 50 grams (guestimate)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/DSC_5239_zps29ec5438.jpg)
and this is the state of the stone now...it is still almost near the 250mm mark!
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq76/violainesweetness/DSC_5230_zps5ffa2521.jpg)
I'm sure that oil is just fine. About any oil would do, umm... well, any petroleum based oil. Probably would not want to use vegetable oil!
You only want to use just barely enough oil to get the honing compound to stick to the leather. The honing compound contains oil, so once you get to that point it kind of takes care of itself.
What you don't want to do is to apply too much oil so that the wheel becomes rubbery and slippery. You don't want the honing compound to slip and slop around on the surface of the leather. It needs to stick to the leather to do its job. When you have it right, you can almost feel it cutting the steel. It has sort of a smooth tug on the blade. Hard to explain, but you will know it when you feel it.
I suspect that it would work fine even if you never used any extra oil at all, but it would use up more compound until the leather became saturated. At any rate, when it comes to oil, it's better to use too little than to use too much.
BTW, that is the most beautiful picture of slough I've ever seen! :)
If you think Slough's nice you should see Maidenhead on Thames :-)
I also felt the same that I must not "wet" the strop too much so that the honing paste can still infiltrate the surface fibers and not slip because of over oiling.
oh and that is called..."slough"!
thanks for the comments on the pics...now let me get my hands busy sharpening more tool iron for "..the devil will find work for idle hands to do.."