Well, it doesn't really work I'm afraid. If you mount it normally ie with tightening knob facing out as it should be, the side facing the grindstone is too short.
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b598/byoomholay/708CA407-8D76-408D-BFF3-4D1752344144-196-00000019B9D0EEFB_zpsbc4ec129.jpg)
So I tried turning it round so the black knob was on the underside. Clearly its not meant to be used like that but in so doing you get the longer of the two surface sides presented to the wheel. As long as you shimmy it along the us a little the knob doesn't hit the grndstone
This allows you to get the following lowest angle before the back of the torlok hits the grindstone
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b598/byoomholay/15A55D7F-63EE-4301-A83B-7535FCB123E4-196-0000001A2D9E8337_zps24c6904f.jpg)
Around 22.5
So you can grind one side of a small knife, assuming you're happy with that 22.5
But you can't turn it over because the platform is too wide
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b598/byoomholay/3B0D2F4B-6984-4B9E-B039-A1EE4B30A4F8-196-0000001A9F55DE4E_zps96633dba.jpg)
Conclusion
Without modification in much the same way Ionut/Herman pursued, the Torlok is unsuitable as its too wide to grind both sides of a small knife and the lowest angle flexibility is insufficient.
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b598/byoomholay/38230896-3D03-4ACD-BBA1-0AE1283C0AFB-196-0000001ACC130BF7_zps71914a95.jpg)
Rob, I have one as well. I wasn't satisfied with how it mounted up in relation to the stone. It looks like you came out better than I in regard to the angle. You also have to deal with the table being too wide. Ken cut his shorter, Herman added a piece although it was a different jig.
All you would have to do is add a piece like Ionut and Herman. I made mine as the whole entire jig instead.
I see your angle master has degrees marked down to 10 degrees. That is nice, mine only shows 15 degrees and bottoms out at 16 degrees.
Isn't the degree reading supposed to be taken with the trailing point of bottom of the indicator (the flat surface you have on the table) touching the wheel?
Hi Rob,
It would work if you cut the platform to match the stone width, grind the back of the jig to a thin edge that would allow you to get your knife as close to the stone as possible. But I wouldn't suggest you to mess with it, a wooden, aluminum or plastic platform mounted over it will give you more flexibility in setting the angle. I see in one of the pictures the way you measure the angles, that will give you incorrect results if it wasn't done by intention. The lower corner of the black plastic angle indicator has to touch the stone in order to obtain the correct bevel angle.
All the best,
Ionut
Yup cutting it would be one way to do it. In the end though I think I still prefer your and Hermans solution (or Eldens) ie to make a custom platform. That solves both problems ie width and angle flexibility
I only wanted to quickly trial the Torlok.....I didn't really hold out much hope and sur enough..... :-)
I'm like you Rob, I pulled that rest out hoping. Actually, I wonder if it had ever been out of the box. It had a new smell about it. I have an older model Tormek that I got used and it came with it. It would be easier to just to add the extension to that rest, but it's not too hard to make the whole thing either, if you have a buddy (I about said mate but wasn't sure that would be proper usage ;)) that welds. Over here we have a product called JB Weld that would probably do the job.
Yeah welding came up the other day. I've never tried it myself and have no one in my network that does it either. I've never really "done metal" to be honest. I'm strictly wood
I'm fascinated by welding and can see how very useful the skill would be, particularly in sturdy jig production. One day ill have a go at that for sure
JB Weld will bond metal products together in a lot of cases. It is machinable as well. In its earlier days, I remember seeing 2 valves from an engine, having the heads bonded together with it at an auto parts store. There was no way that they could be broken apart by hand. I have heard of it being used to seal a crack in engine blocks. Don't know the equivalent product for over there. It doesn't begin to replace a welder, but it is a good product.
Cutting the tool rest down for this purpose is something that Ken S has done and has posted about.
JB Weld is a two-part epoxy. I've heard the claim about it being used to mend cracked engine blocks. It's not gonna hold up to the thermal stress. I used it once to mend a crack along the outside of the bend in a galvanized water pipe elbow that had been damaged by a freeze. To my surprise it held up. A few years later the pipes froze again. I looked under the house and could see a sliver of ice that had pushed the JB Weld out of that crack! It was a sight I'll never forget.
As far as attaching a platform to a jig, I prefer to use machine screws. The jigs are made of aluminum and are easy to drill and tap. Then you can easily remove the platform and the jig can be used for other purposes, as if it were new.
The angle master must touch the grindstone in two places to get an accurate reading. This is how I wore down the corner of mine. As a newbie I fumbled about trying to measure bevel angles correctly. Once that corner wears down the angle master is no longer accurate.
Agree with you Herman on the bolting down to the tool rest. I was referring to, if he wanted to make a separate jig entirely as I did. I ended up bolting the table plate down to the spacer to facilitate changing the length of it.
It could always be taken to a hired welder. I welded the spacer to the tube.
Elden, I'd be interested in your impressions on how well it sharpens it knife.
Hope to try Monday or so. I expect to mess up a few times to begin with. :P
Go for it :)
I tried turning the Torlock jig around. I replaced the plastic knob with a standard 6mm thread bolt from the hardware store, which got me a lot closer. I filed down the flat surface which is threaded for the bolt. That was even closer.
Final result, still not close enough. In order to get the Torlock to the correct angle, an auxiliary plate like Ionut and Herman use is the way to go.
I have not tried Jeff's suggestion about slicing off the table in a way to allow the regular plastic knob to be between the wheel and the threaded rod of the usb. That's still in the planning stage, although I think the Ionut/Herman solution is more practical.
Based on having done it, I would not cut the table down to two inches again. The cutting was easy, but the result was not successful. The narrow auxiliary table does the job much better.
Ken
Right, bad idea. I am not at home so I cannot test my ideas.
While you are away from home your Torlocks are safe......
There is value in early prototypes, although it can be hard on the Torlocks.
Ken
Thats right
If we keep this inventing up.......there'll be just parts where our Tormeks used to be :-)