I was given a pair of pinking shears to sharpen. I found the below post from Jeff describing how, and I've watched other videos on the 'Net, but I'm curious as to if any of you guys have done it and how it turned out.
Is the Tormek a good solution for sharpening pinkers, or should I leave it to the dudes who do this professionally? I don't want to mess up this lady's scissors.
Checking around it looks like they are called "vintage". Wiss CB7.
Hey Tom, (Mamba), any input on this?
Quote from: Jeff Farris on February 23, 2004, 04:11:11 PM
Paint the bevel of the pinking shear with the marker in the Break-in & Maintenance kit (or any waterproof marker). Mount the shear in the blade clamp. Rest the blade clamp against the support plate and adjust the angle of the support plate until it visually appears that the bevel is resting on the stone. Turn the stone by hand and inspect the scratches. Adjust if the bevel is too much toward the heel or toe until the bevel is resting on the stone. Grind away. For pinking shears, I would use the 220 grit, followed by the 1000 grit finish. The first step should be used three or four strokes across the stone. Inspect frequently and continue grinding until a fresh, sharp, continuous bevel is established. Then grade the grindstone and refine the scratch pattern in the bevel.
I've never done pinking shears. I would recommend practicing on a cheap pair first, if that's possible.
I know as a child I was never allowed to touch Mom's precious pinking shears.
I don't have any advice but I note that many pinking shear manufacturers offer a sharpening service. Check it out on the web.
I never have done any scissors on the Tormek. I have used the Foley-Belsaw 327 which is the same thing as the Twice As Sharp. The manufacturer of the machine told us straight out that there was about a 50% success rate on pinking shears. I found that I didn't want to tackle them as I didn't like to have to tell the owner that I couldn't repair them. Scissors were a different story.
Well, you know how I feel. 8)
I've done hundreds. It really isn't as daunting as it seems, just resist the urge to do anything on the mating edges. Just grind the bevel as close to the original angle as you can.
Think about it. The cut comes from the teeth meshing precisely. They lose their effectiveness when the edge formed by the intersection of the bevel and the meshing surface becomes rounded. Restore that edge by shaving down the bevel surface and Bob's your uncle.
Makes perfect sense to me Jeff.
Do you need to take any precautions when first closing the scissors due to burr formation on the edges of the teeth?
I've read recommendations from the salon scissors sharpeners that you should gently hold the blades apart with your fingers, close the scissors and then open them. These pinkers are thick and heavy, so maybe that is just not an issue, but I wondered if you had heard of anything like that.
I don't think you could get them to spread, but that process is always a good idea on scissors. I think you'll find the angle is close to 80ยบ, so the burr is very, very small.
Mark...
I don't think I can add much to Jeff's post. I've only done two pair of pinking shears....both on the Tormek. My salon scissor equipment is not suitable to this work. Keeping the original bevel on both blades is instrumental to success with these things. I did use the marker in both cases. I don't remember the exact number but the 80 degree angle seems close.
If you're not careful, you can screw these things up. Take your time, though, and use the marker. You should be alright. If you mess up, plan on leaving town. I think it's an unholy alliance these ladies have with their pinking shears.
Tom
Hubble, bubble, toil and trouble!
Tom said, "I think it's an unholy alliance these ladies have with their pinking shears."
Rob said, "Hubble, bubble, toil and trouble!"
Mark sez, "Fire burn and cauldron bubble. Round and round the cauldron go, now in the poison entrals throw! Eye of newt, skin of snake. Deep in cauldron, boil and bake..."
But truth be told into what I'd delve..., she's had these shears since she was twelve! For forty five years she's cleaved her muslin, should I screw up.. (someone please add ending)...
Interesting history:
http://www.rubylane.com/item/446248-1628/Wiss-Pinking-Shears-Scissors-CB7
Dispite the inexpensive cost new, it is a beautiful tool, built like a tank, and made to last many lifetimes.
Tom and Rob, I think you're right. I'd approach this project with fear and fright!
I see no reason why I'd screw them up. I can paint bevels and match them. I've done it many times. But, I may just take Herman's advice and order myself a set off ebay just to practice on.
Jeff, I wish I had your amazing amount of experience.
I believe acquired his experience one blade at a time........
(As far as I know, that method still works.)
"The life so short, the craft so hard to learn."
Ken
I've noticed that on many scissors (not pinking shears) that the bevel varies along the length of the blades. The only way I know to handle this issue is to take an average value.
I take it this is not an issue with pinking shears?
Tom,
I continue my strange fascination with sharpening salon scissors. I feel lucky to be able to speak with someone who does it! The odds of me ever doing it are extremely remote, but I find it most interesting nonetheless.
Why, may I ask, would not a flat disk abrasive wheel be ideal for pinkers? Wouldn't a perfectly flat be what you are looking for? Is it that the articulating arm rotates about the axis of the blade and therefore it would be difficult to maintain the bevel angle?
The world of salon scissors sharpening seems to insular, specialized, and requiring a skill set much different from sharpening other stuff. Got to hand it to you for pulling that off, and with enough confidence to take on a $4K pair of ego scissors!
As per what Herman just said, I think there is a lot to learn about scissors sharpening in general, let alone salon scissors. Your input in this forum is most informative.
Mark, the less macho way might be to purchase a good, but not absolute tops pair of pinking shears and sharpen them a few times. As they would already be sharp, removing just a minuscule amount of steel with the magic marker should do the trick. Doing this a few times would give you the confidence and skill to try someone else's shears. (You could also have them try cutting with the shears you had just sharpened.)
I don't know very much about salon scissors. My wife has a pair she uses on me and family members. She bought them through a friend who cuts her hair. Cosmetology schools seem plentiful. The many students need workable scissors at student budget prices. Surely you could find some inexpensive scissors of reasonable quality for sharpening training purposes. Yes, there are some big bucks prestige salons. But there are a lot of low budget salons of hard working people trying to make a living.
I will ask my wife's friend about economical scissors. You might also make inquiries. Tom should know. Posting the results might be of interest to many on the forum.
Ken
Mark,
A flat, abrasive disk, by and of itself, could function well in this case.....provided you had some control mechanism that would let you reliably control the bevel being cut. Trying to free-hand this task complicates it quite a lot....I wouldn't want to try it. Others, with more free-hand skills, may not mind giving it a go.
My salon scissor equipment is unsuitable for two reasons:
1. My machine requires that the scissors be taken apart....the blades separated, one from the other. That's possible with some of the pinking shears I've seen, but not possible with others.
2. The bigger issue, and the one that really prohibits using my equipment for this, is that of space constraints. My equipment was designed and constructed to accommodate scissor blades of much smaller dimensions than the pinking shears I've seen. There's just no room to work with blades of the size of most pinking shears.
My two efforts with the Tormek in handling the " pinkers "turned out well. I proceeded as if my life depended on it....and, knowing one of these old gals, it may well have.
Tom
When my daughter-in-law was a cosmetology student she still had to pay well over $100 for her scissors. And that was several years ago.
I mentioned in a prior post that one should expect to pay ( retail ) from $250 to $600 for an excellent pair of forged salon scissors. Scissors made with the casting process can, and do, sell for considerably less. I'll occasionally drop into a local beauty supply chain store and I'll see low-end salon scissors selling from $30 - $35 on up. This stuff is pure junk....usually has very poor quality tensioning device pieces and the sharp edge ( if you can even get it that way ) will seemingly blow off in a strong wind. The bulk of what this chain will sell goes for $ 50 to $100 dollars. I wouldn't waste my money on the stuff but some folks don't have other options in their budget.
The high end of the market can, as we've seen, reach esoteric levels....can't really justify their cost, but, there's that old ego critter lurking around and he has a terrific bite.
Tom
Very good posts, Tom and Herman. My eyes are a little more open now. I had no idea they were so expensive; it makes my Lie-Nielsen chisels seem like a bargain!
When I think about it, it does seem more logical. A good grade of steel precision machined and ground for a relatively small market. No wonder they are expensive.
Thanks for the info.
Ken
They work well and last for a very long time. They represent an investment in the future.
Kind of like a good table saw.
I sharpened the pinkers.
I painted up the faces of the teeth, matched the bevel and ground away. It was interesting that not all of the teeth were exactly at the same angle or perfectly flat, so I just ground until all of the teeth were resurfaced from top to bottom.
While I was a little hesitant to do so, but as per Jeff's instructions, I started at 220 grit. Glad I did too, because it took a little grinding to get all of the teeth to the same bevel and resurfaced. If I see the same scissors again, I'll start at 1000 grit.
I put the other blade into the jig and found the bevel was a little different, so I had to reset the angle.
Then I finished with 1000 grit.
Had I known the each side had a different bevel angle, I would have finished one side to 1000 grit and then done the other.
Before sharpening, the scissors would not cut the full length of the blade cleanly, leaving the edges of cloth torn up but still connected at the base and near the tips. Now they cut perfectly from base to tip.
Thanks for the instructions Jeff. Worked great. Just as you said, grind away and... Bob's your uncle! Boom. Done.
They were actually easier to sharpen than some other scissors. Nice fat surface to work with, and because they are fat and heavy, less of that annoying vibration that can happen at obtuse angles on thinner blades.
So if anyone else was wondering, the Tormek works great for pinkers, and it's easy to do!
Quote from: grepper on March 24, 2013, 01:47:07 AM
Before sharpening, the scissors would not cut the full length of the blade cleanly, leaving the edges of cloth torn up but still connected at the base and near the tips. Now they cut perfectly from base to tip.
When a tool's in that bad of a shape, it gives me confidence to go ahead and sharpen. Even if I screw it up it's not much lost.
Glad it worked out for you, Mark.
I can only vaguely remember what pinking shears look like from when I was a kid. Next time my wife drags me to a fabric store I'll look them over.
I had never used pinking shears in my life. I had to ask my wife why you would want to cut a zig-zag in fabric. The answer is that it helps reduce fraying of the edge. Huh. Who knew?
But I know what scissors are supposed to do! And now they do that. Pinking or not, they cut cleanly and evenly. Before I sharpened they did not. Now, they do. :)
For me, tool restoration is very rewarding. I respect good tools.
Agreed