I have recently purchased a Tormek T3 and used it extensively to sharpen my chisels and plane irons. I have used the diamond dressing tool once. I have noticed that my wider chisels and plane irons end up with a bevel that is out of square significantly. After investigating the problem I have come to the conclusion that the Universal Tool Support is not truly parallel with the machine shaft. There seems to be some play in the legs of the UTS, i.e. the UTS appears to be able to "rock", pivoting about the micro-adjust sleeve. The UTS also seems to be very stiff in its bushings. Is there any remedy or trick to stabilise the UTS in its bushings and keep it parallel to the machine shaft.
Are you tightening the two set screws that hold the legs of the Universal Support in place?
Hi Herman,
Yes I am tightening the two pillar nuts but how can I be assured that the UTS is parallel to the machine shaft sufficient to form a bevel that is square and more importantly that the diamond dressing tool is dressing the wheel sqaurely. Has it to be done by eye or is there a more scientific approach?
DGPSL
What is important is that the Universal Support lock in the same plane at each change of height. This is quite a bit more of an issue on the T-3 than it is on the T-7, but, the issue exists on both machines. The solution is to always use the micro-adjust thumb-wheel and place downward pressure directly over the micro-adjuster when locking up the clamps.
Thanks Jeff,
It works better than it did but I still have to check the alignment visually to give me confidence that the UTS is actually aligned correctly with the machine shaft and ultimately that the wheel surface is running true. Your comment regarding the T7 vs T3 creates an impression that the T3 is not as well engineered as the T7. Is this true?
DGPSL
"Engineered" is a tricky word. The T-3 "engineering" is equal to that of the T-7, but the engineering goals are quite different. The T-7 is engineered to be the best it can be within certain limits. The T-3 is engineered to hit a specific price point. The plastic frame makes it impossible to achieve the same level of accuracy in the Universal Support that an all steel frame can deliver.
Yup. It's like they say, any good engineer can build a bridge that won't fall down. It takes a really good engineer to build a bridge that just won't fall down. ;)
Two suggestions:
A quick check with machinist's inside calipers would tell the tale. If the feel on the right side between the stone and the bar seems the same as the left, you are parallel. No need to get fancy; simple inside calipers
will suffice.
An old woodworker's trick is using winding sticks. These are two parallel sticks placed on a board to be planed. Sighting through the two sticks shows any "wind" (long "i") in the board which needs to be planed. (They should look parallel.) In good light, look through the gap between the wheel and bar from an angle which makes the gap small. Your eyes will tell you of the gap is not parallel.