Messages

Thanks CB, as I said earlier Wootz recommended 1400 RPM for paper wheels.
Darita, this is the point. I don't think running a paper wheel on Tormek would be very effective at all. They need those higher but not too high revs to work.

I'm pretty sure Vadim recommended an RPM of 1400 for paper wheels.

You just know I'm going to agree with the last 2 replies.
It seems Tormek are making it difficult for sharpeners who sharpen lots of knives where time and convenience/efficiency is really important.
And it's so glaringly obvious. Ho hum.

Think this might be one for you Ken. I'm looking into getting a used Tormek supergrind and was wondering if it would be possible to use new honing wheels and grinding wheels on these older machines. There is a chance I can get one for a good deal and would consider it if I can upgrade it with new version wheels and usbs?

Hi. This is surely a question for CB to answer. I think he must be busy as he's normally fairly active on the forum.
Your question is not entirely clear. For USB to stone measurements simply input the stone diameter and jig projection into the calcapp and it will give you an answer, will work for FVB or normal edge leading grinding.
If I'm right in concluding that you want a USB to casing measurement then calcapp can now provide that but I think you will have to input some constants measurements for that. Straight forward for grinding but maybe a bit more complex for the FVB, as depending on the FVB you have you may have to take some accurate measurements. I'm sure calcapp should guide you through this. If it doesn't then I'm sure CB will help you with it.
Sorry to hear you having cognitive troubles. Hope it gets better soon. Good luck!

Yes agree with Ken. Don't do anything silly like hitting it with a hammer or grinding your shaft (?!). I know it's frustrating but Tormek support will get this sorted for you.

Ha anyone used this ( LA 120) to deburr serrated knives?
If so is it th thing to use or would a tapered felt wheel be better?
Thoughts please, thanks.

Thanks again everyone. Lots to think about.
It seems that the jury is out on the felt wheel then.
Perhaps it is best left for harder steel or quality knives ( as Vadim termed them).
The interesting thing with that is that many of Vadims protocols for these types of steel forgo the felt wheel and rely on exact or sometimes a very slight reduction in angle. These steels fall into the negative burr category I think?

Yes Ken of course you are right. And from what others have said it maybe that the paper wheels are the real issue here as the results using them appear very random also. The protocol that does work for me using the felt wheel, for global knives does not involve using paper wheels. So again thanks all for input, it's given me fresh ideas to mull over in the small hours!

Thanks for the replies everyone.
I'll keep trying with it for a little while before I give up on it completely.

Thanks Drilon. Just a query, what angle on the felt wheel?

Thanks for the reply Rick.
As an example. Today I tried using Vadims protocol for a Swibo knife.
Edge set at 15 degrees/side on CBN 1000.
Initial honing on paper wheel at +0.4 degrees. Bess 169 ( inline with Vadims predicted Bess 150 at this stage for 12 degrees/side).
Rock hard felt wheel with 1 micron diamond spray at +1.6 degrees. Bess 177 (way off Vadims predicted Bess 85 at this stage).
Final honing on paper wheel with chromox and 0.25 diamond paste at exact. Bess 154 (again way of predicted 30-50 Bess.

Now whilst I'm not concerned at the exact Bess scores ( I gave up chasing sub 50) what is worrying is that this felt wheel stage invariably lowers the initial honing sharpness which suggests to me that the edge is being rounded slightly at this stage?

All measurements are bar to stone using calcapp and as accurate as I can make them.

Using very light pressure on the felt wheel.

As an aside I usually get sub 100 Bess by honing mainstream steels at +2 degrees and then exact on a leather strop on a worksharp. And there is some guess work in that as to the flexibility of the belt.

You will notice that the paper wheels don't seem to be the problem here but the felt wheel stage.

The only real success I've had is for global knives for which Vadims protocol does work for me. All others for different mainstream knives keep failing for me at the felt wheel stage.

Any ideas?

I would be very interested to know member's experiences and thoughts on the use of a rock hard felt wheel to deburr knives.
I am asking because I have had very limited success with it following Wootz's guidance and protocols.
So I'm wondering if others have had problems and any tips to iron out those problems.
Thanks in advance.

Vadims' book is a good way to understand that the art of achieving a sharp edge is not so much about achieving an apex ( which is relatively easy on a Tormek) but how to deburr that edge and refine it to get best possible results.
I agree with a previous post that a Bess score should be used to give an indication of whether the burr has been successfully removed. Any score under 100 will indicate this.
I have spent a lot of time trying to replicate Wootz results using his protocols with paper wheels to deburr after setting an edge with T8. The results are tenuous, despite a lot of research and use of calculators etc to try and get sub 50 Bess scores.
My thinking now is to stop chasing those low Bess scores and be very happy with sub 120 Bess however I can achieve it.
Which doesn't include all those multi step paper wheel orientated protocols advocated by Wootz ( I can't make them work).
My advice is to find a way that works for you which is repeatable and easy and not get too hung up on lowest Bess scores.

I think for a ZWILLING Henckels that 15 degrees per side will be fine even though some might say that 20 degrees per side for that sort of steel gives a more robust edge. Anywhere in between will be fine too!
Maybe some basic lessons in knife care for your daughter would be more important than the edge geometry?