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Very interesting. Will you be placing the final 3D files for download somewhere?

As per the "The Forest Service Ax Manual - one moving part", 17 to 21 dps is suggested for the bevel, wich is 34 to 42 deg inclusive.
However, an microbevel of 25 to 32 dps (50 to 64 inclusive) is recommended in addition. 

However, you are talking about hatchets, not axes. I should read more carefully.

Yes, I've read that page as well, but perhaps there may be some errors there?  Note RichColvin's Sharpening Handbook says axes are 20-35 inclusive, based on type/usage.  This is in agreement with other sources, including some notable vendors of high-end, non-racing style, axes.  I've also seen various videos on how to create an axe gauge, and for instance when they describe making it for 25 degrees, they mark it for 12.5 degrees per side.

It was measured on the bevel so that 42 is inclusive angle. When you read about axes and hatchets it commonly refers to 20-35 inclusive depending on type/usage, not per side, if I'm understanding it correctly.  I'm new to this also so open to instruction.

I spent some time with a hand file to thin down the cheek of the hatchet to be more similar to the other profiles I've seen, something which might actually fit into the above template, but judging by eye since I don't have the template. I cleaned up the hand filing a little bit freehand on the Tormek.  After that I went back to the axe jig and dropped the USB a couple turns and reground the edge.  It now measures about 42 degrees, and cuts paper.  Not quite yet at the recommended 20-35 degrees, but getting there.

I have 3 very old hatchets of different styles, acquired from relatives. One looks to be a roofing or construction hatchet since it has a hammer on one side.  It still fits into the jig though.

None have any visible bevel to match. All are a mess with crooked edges, all convex down to the "edge", all practically blunt.  I First tried to black marker the average edge and match it.  After I did that I measured the angle on the anglemaster and it was 60 degrees. It now had a point but would barely tear paper.  I've got quite a bit of work ahead. More to post as it unfolds.

I've read various resources.  Note to Rich Colvin. Looks like the axe page reference to the Forest Service axe manual has moved.  Perhaps this is it now:  https://www.fs.usda.gov/inside-fs/delivering-mission/deliver/one-moving-part-forest-service-ax-manual

Well so far the hatchet journey is interesting.  I'll start another thread on that.

Having received a US-430, SVD110, and the new updated HTK-806 with centering jigs for Christmas, I look forward to learning more, and the ability to sharpen more things, in the coming year.

I've enjoyed reading through the forum and gaining insights from those many more experienced persons who came to Tormek before me. I've enjoyed the online classes from Tormek and other videos on YouTube.  Thanks to everyone!

So far I've been able to revive some old knives to sharper than I've ever seen them.  My kitchen knives and some for my friends are nice to work with again.  I'm working on 3 old hatchets now, which is a new challenge to figure out the axe jig and how to set new bevels on something which appears not to have an existing one to match.

Thanks,
TC

Note I just purchased a Tormek T-8.  I had the latest paper copy manual, but wanted a PDF copy as well.  I emailed info@tormek.se and received the following response:

Follow the link and sign up then you can download the handbook.
https://tormek.com/en/knowledge/the-tormek-way-of-sharpening#LaddanerHB10Tormekhandbok

It asks you for your email to sign up for their newsletter, and then redirects you to a webpage where you can download the handbook in various languages.