What stone does the Supergrind 2000 use?
It uses the same stones as the T-7.
SG-250
SB-250
SJ-250
Thanks!! I currently have the T-7 and I need a new stone and stone grader. I have always wanted a backup in case mine needs to go into the shop. I found this for sale for $275 and figured I could not pass it up. Older gentleman moving into smaller house and just never used it so it has been sitting. The stone fits my T-7 and comes with the grading stone. So I get what I need and and a Tormek almost for free. Win Win!!
(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah317/kennyhallam/Tormek%202000_zpsyhdnkslf.jpg) (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/kennyhallam/media/Tormek%202000_zpsyhdnkslf.jpg.html)
Kenny, that is a sharp looking machine. It doesn't appear to have flaking paint or rust. I have a similar pre serial number machine. I hope the grinding wheel is not rusted to the shaft as mine was. They do not have the stainless steel shaft unless they have been upgraded. I notice that there is no truing tool in the picture. Since you have the T-7, that should be no problem, however.
Before I buy it how can I tell if the wheel is rusted to the shaft? Should I ask him to see if he can remove the stone before I drive and hour to look at it?
Thanks for the heads up!
Kenny
Nice find!
If all the used market was like that I would think differently. I believe you will soon wonder how you ever got by with only one Tormek!
Enjoy! (and keep us posted!)
Ken
I would be surprised if the shaft was rusted badly on that clean of a Tormek. My inclination would be to drive there and remove the wheel before transporting it. Be sure and take a two inch piece of plastic pipe or conduit with a half inch inside diameter. Once you remove the grinding wheel and check everything, use the plastic pipe as a spacer so that the shaft doesn't slide during transport. A Tormek should not be transported with the grinding wheel in place.
Ken
I will let you know how it works out Ken.
Why should you not transport a Tormek with the stone on? I have been doing that with my mobile business for quite awhile. I have it setting flat in the back of my van where it will not fall or rock back and forth. Now I am concerned what damage I could possibly cause.
I believe the main issue is the weight of the grinding wheel being suspended on the shaft and the added impact forces of bouncing down the road in a vehicle multiplies that weight.
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2812.msg14867#msg14867
There have been a few posts about removing a stuck stone, it namely will take patience.
That said, if he didn't use it much (looks like at all), then the stone wasn't wet often. I would doubt much rust is there, but you could ask him for a picture of the stone side, facing the camera (look for rust color on the stone).
That is a little bit more then I gave and I would honestly say my shaft was probably in a bit worse condition, but I would still buy that, and as I eventually want another stone, would put it on this on.
Quote from: That Sharpening Guy on February 05, 2016, 02:12:29 AM
Before I buy it how can I tell if the wheel is rusted to the shaft? Should I ask him to see if he can remove the stone before I drive and hour to look at it?
I would do as Ken advises and look at it when you get there. First plug it in and turn it on. Watch for wheel wobble in a pattern that indicates a bent main shaft. Then explain that you need to remove the grindstone for transport and you'd like to make sure it's removeable and not rusted in lace before you pay. If it is so rusted (not likely given the superb condition apparent in the photo) that you can't remove it, or if there's any rust at all, adjust your paying price appropriately. The grindstone itself is worth a lot.
Another nice thing about having two Tormeks is you can equip each of them with a different type of grindstone. And you can impregnate each honing wheel with a different type of compound. Lots of advantages.
You fellows often mention upgrading to the stainless shaft with the quick release nut. Does the shaft come with the nut? I do not see the nut as any kind of need. How often do you change stones? If you only have one stone then whats the big deal. Even if you have another stone, how often would you change it. Wouldn't you "batch process" your items to be sharpened rather than do a knife, then a chisel, then gouge? You know, use the coarse grit on all and then the fine on all and then whatever else you want. I have often wondered about the feasibility of applying plumbers teflon tape to the threads to prevent rusting and seizure. It would be way cheaper.
Even with the stainless shaft, my understanding is the recommendation of greasing it, (plastic bushings), stands.
The currently sold shaft is stainless, and left hand threaded, WITH the nut. No replacement chrome shaft is sold, for those that have a rusted shaft, and to clean and replate it so it won't rust easily, again, isn't cost effective. (unless you probably own or can get it done for free)
Personally I didn't remove my stone when I bought mine, but I don't know what your roads are like. My drive was smooth and it was in a box with some padding.
Quote from: jeffs55 on February 05, 2016, 05:27:54 AM
You fellows often mention upgrading to the stainless shaft with the quick release nut. Does the shaft come with the nut?
Yes, but if I recall correctly you will still need to save from the old shaft the nut that goes on the other end (the honing wheel end).
I checked this thread and verified that my memory is correct ...
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=929.msg2133#msg2133
... but then noticed an interesting coincidence.
Purchased in 2002, seven years elapsed to the 2009 grindstone and main shaft replacement.
Now it's 2016. Another seven years! It doesn't seem that long.
QuoteIf you only have one stone then whats the big deal.
Removal for maintenance? Honestly, I don't see the big deal either. The only reason I have mine is because it came with the main shaft that I needed to buy when my old one bent.
I suspect Herman May be correct about maintenance, however I am over fastidious. Lately I have been removing the grinding wheel after each sharpening session. This helps the wheel dry out and makes it easier to keep the Tormek dry and clean.
I confess I did not do this before EZYlock. Nor did I do this before I had multiple wheels. Grinding wheels can take several days to dry out. Storing damp wheels in boxes ruins the cardboard.
The hooks on the work station are very nice for hanging the wheels. However, I also made a couple very usable hooks using stainless steel bolts which are secured in the corner holes of metal shelves. I posted a description of them on the forum. If anyone is interested, I will post again.
Ken
I can see the drying out aspect, and have debated about trying that (putting it in front of a fan). But where is your Tormek stored, in relation to your tools?
For me the maintenance is the bigger issue, not having the tools handy to the Tormek, the tool free nature means it is more apt to get done, sooner/more often.
My shaft was rusted and chrome had flaked off. The original owner (that died of cancer), had chipped the original stone, getting it off the shaft (and replaced it). With my hectic life, I didn't feel the need for that to happen to me. Personal preference, my time/money, values.
I also am planning on buying another stone (haven't decided which).
This reminds me, I should get the nut for the other end at some point. Mine didn't have it, as the turning kit was with my Tormek, including the leather profile wheels for the outside. (when they need replacement, I would like to have the nut handy, while waiting for parts. Keeps the machine in running order for the cost of the nut, then.
Ken, the T7 is rated for continuous use. Do you not think that the stone in continuous movement will dry faster than a stationary stone? I would think that the more exposure caused by the greater air flow across the surface would make it so. Maybe exposure is not the right word as the surface area does not change. I am thinking like if you put a frozen object into a mass of water, the water is denser and therefore bleeds cold away from the frozen object faster than air. At the minimum, there is more air movement and consequently faster evaporation. Certainly we are not talking about 24/7 on time, but a few hours should not be out of the question.
You would be dealing with friction of a moving object (evaporate quicker), centrifugal force (pushing water towards the outside), exposure of the surfaces that the machine doesn't cover, etc. It should dry out quicker, but one would have to run tests to determine how much.
Jeff,
I recall this topic came up before. Someone weighed a stone after a period of running dry versus not being run dry. As I recall (surprisingly) running dry didn't make any appreciable difference.
You may be right about the continuous duty stone. However, I have found both the SB and SJ stones do not dry quickly. Neither do the Norton 3X stones. I believe they are actually designed to be run dry, so drying may be more important with them. After several days drying in a 50% humidity basement, the stones still caused the cardboard boxes to get damp.
Removing the stones and hanging them to dry only takes a few seconds (with the EZYlock). It makes it easier to keep both the Tormek and the area under it, including the rotating base, dry. I do not consider this a "must do procedure". I just do it and I think it helps.
Ken
The moisture is deep inside the grindstone. I doubt there's much you can do to speed up the drying process, other than making sure it's not immersed.
SADW,
"But where is your Tormek stored, in relation to your tools?" (Your question earlier in this topic). The bolt hooks I made for my metal shelves are within three feet of where I use the Tormek. They are for all practical purposes as convenient as the hooks on the work station. I spend much more time walking across the basement to get water and clean the tray than I do getting the grinding wheels.
Ken