Messages

Tiny File ? 

I thought about your question and I think that it is interesting. 

My initial thought is not to use the stone grader on the sides.  My reasoning is that there is no way to true the sides, like can be done on the outer edge of the wheel.  But I am not sure that that reasoning is valid. 

I do know that I have never used the grader on the sides, and somehow I have nice, shiny backs on my chisels, but it has been a while since I have done them, and they were new to begin with.

If you have a stone grader that is fairly square, maybe it will work.  Mine however is worn nicely to the contour of my wheel, so I know that the grader would hit the stone unevenly on the side, and in my mind that would make the side less "flat".

I guess that the worst that could happen is that you end up needed to replace the wheel.  I remember vaguely a long time ago an instructor in shop saying you should never grid on the side of a grinding wheel, but that was definitely about high speed grinders and not the slow 100 rpm from the tormek.

I guess that I could argue it either way, so let us know what you decide and how it works for you.

Brett

I saw that.  It looked good.

Let us know how it works when you get a chance to try it on some real blades.

The attached picture of the new and old knife jig may explain why the screw is recessed in the adjustable clamp.

Jan

That explains how I ground my jig 

I don't have any really flexible knives, so I rarely use the -140.  My big slicers I freehand, and with boning knives, I just put a little extra pressure at the tip end to eliminate the vibrations.

I also don't clamp knives in overly tight.

If I sharpened professionally, I might worry more about these things a little more.

I've had the same thought, but I don't have the jig.  I'm not sure that it would work to grind on the standard part of the wheel due to the size of the rotary blade.  You might need to grind on edge.

If you try it out, let us know how it works.

Brett

...
Their silence is deafening by the way !!!!

I would not expect an answer on the forum.  Did you call them or their distributor?  No product is perfect.  Since this issue is so egregious to you, perhaps you should consider returning it and finding a solution that will work for you rather than to keep complaining about it.

I think that I will tune out now.

Thanks Brett and Jan.

If I wasn't confused before, I am now looking at that diagram. 

At the end of the day, if I set the Tormek up to grind a chisel at 25 degrees, surely I should expect to then be able to continue the process of sharpening it on my honing guide at 25 degrees. The Veritas honing guide doesn't have a 27.5 degree setup on it.

I appreciate the input from both of you, but now I'm going to take some paracetamol for my headache this has given me. 

Jan's diagram just shows what you already know, although I agree it is a little confusing.

If you hone on a stone, the stone should be flat, and the angle along the whole bevel is 25 degrees.  The Tormek has a round wheel, initially it is 250 mm in diameter.  That is where the R125 on the drawing comes from (Radius 125mm).  The actual bevel is hollow ground.  There is a page about this in the manual somewhere.

I personally don't hone to a greater polish than the leather wheel can give, but really my chisels are just used for rough lumber.  I'm not sure how they would do in hardwoods, but I have been happy with the end results.

I would recommend not sweating it or overly thinking about it, as long as the tool does what you want.

Brett

Is the angle master set for the correct stone diameter?  Are you using the notches around the edges?  I have an angle gauge, but I doubt that it is too accurate.  However, I haven't noticed a difference.

Brett

The manual says that you can use the Truing Tool, but I have not tried to sharpen anything after using it.  When I true my stone, I practice moving the diamond tip at a constant rate.  When I do it right, the stone looks like it has a screw thread on it.

Good Luck,
Brett

I generally subscribe to the Tormek philosophy that secondary bevels are not necessary with the Tormek. Secondary or micro bevels are a labor saving short cut for manual sharpening. They work well with dry grinding be shifting the final sharpening to the bench stone, thus keeping the hot dry grindstone away from the thinnest part of the blade. With the Tormek, there is no danger of overheating. the motor of the Tormek does the heavy labor. There is no nee for a micro bevel.

Ken

Ken, you are correct what concerns Tormek philosophy for secondary bevels on wood chisels and plane irons!

In my understanding the situation with knife edges is somewhat different. Recently I have carefully studied one new Swedish outdoor knife with scandi grind. The included angle of the scandi (primary) grind was 22° while the microbevel angle was 36°. The length of the scandi grind was 6 mm while the length of the microbevel was only 0.1 mm.

If the edge needs only minor maintenance, it may be sufficient to sharpen/hone the microbevel only. When the edge is worn and blunt we have to grind the primary bevel first and restore the 22° angle and then sharpen the microbevel with an angle of 36°.

The microbevel makes the edge stronger, less vulnerable and guarantees better edge retention.

Jan

Is it possible to do a micro edge like this consistently on the Tormek?  I have every confidence that I could set the angle, but I don't think that I could do a 0.1 mm bevel.  I don't think that the two bevels would be equal.  At least I wouldn't be able to do that

I very rarely use a jig on the leather wheel.  I don't feel that I press very hard.  More than the weight of the blade.  Less than I use for grinding.

Lately, I have been experimenting with hold the knife level and then moving the whole tool down the circumference of the wheel.  Kind of like using a paper wheel (I think.  I've never used a paper wheel.  But that is where I got the idea on to try this.).  This also allows me to polish the back of the bevel.  So far, I like it, it feels like I have more control.  I've only really done it with chisels at this point, my mind may change after doing some long chef knives, though.

I have noticed this issue with some of the other boards that I am on.  It didn't really show up until I started using my cell phone camera.  Never had the issue with my Canon camera.  I wonder if this is a toolchain issue.  What I mean is that I have a iPhone, iPad, and iMac.  The pictures are always oriented correctly.  It isn't until I move the photo over to a Windows or a Linux server that they are "rotated".  I suspect that Apple knows what all of their equipment is using (which settings, etc), but that it may not be consistent when moving to other platforms or service.

I am interested in a lot of different things, and was curious about it when I first noticed it.  There are quite a few different settings once you start using EXIF data.  I wonder what happens when you strip off all of the EXIF data.  Maybe now that it is getting cold and dark out, I will look into a little more.

Curious.  I've never run into the rotation behavior and as I just posted, I've been posting tons of photos for 17 years, mostly all modified to crop and resize.  99% have been modified using ACDSee Photo Manager, but I do have PhotoShop available.  I've never heard of stripping the EXIF data.  How is that done?

Rick

I've been posting pictures since 2001, so pretty close to your 17 years.  I didn't notice the issue until earlier this year on a kite forum that I frequent.  What had changed for me was that I was using my iPhone and my windows7 computer rather than my old Canon digital camera.  Your search found a link that was similar to what I was trying to say.

I guess a question for Rick would be what type of camera/computer/OS combination is he using?

As for the EXIF data, well another search leads to: what is exif data and how to remove it

Brett

I have noticed this issue with some of the other boards that I am on.  It didn't really show up until I started using my cell phone camera.  Never had the issue with my Canon camera.  I wonder if this is a toolchain issue.  What I mean is that I have a iPhone, iPad, and iMac.  The pictures are always oriented correctly.  It isn't until I move the photo over to a Windows or a Linux server that they are "rotated".  I suspect that Apple knows what all of their equipment is using (which settings, etc), but that it may not be consistent when moving to other platforms or service.

I am interested in a lot of different things, and was curious about it when I first noticed it.  There are quite a few different settings once you start using EXIF data.  I wonder what happens when you strip off all of the EXIF data.  Maybe now that it is getting cold and dark out, I will look into a little more.

I recall way back when, Jeff was advocating Dursol.  I see that it is still on Advanced Machinery's website  I've never used the stuff, though.

Brett