Messages

Hi, Ionut.

Thanks for the info.

Ken

Brett,

Your post piques my curiosity.  I talked my my former oboe playing daughter, who played in the old oil stone days.  I did some preliminary googling "oboe reed knife/ sharpening".  The one supply house featured knives in the hundred dollar range. (No wonder the teacher is a bit gun shy about using a grinder.  The teacher probably has no idea about the difference between a dry grinder and a Tormek.)

Apparently the oboe community has not read Ron Hock's fine book on sharpening.  Some more modern stones were listed, however, the oil stones are still players.  Even the triangular arrangement where three stones of different grits shared a common oil bath, as did their swarf.  These were in vogue during the last millennium.

For sharpening one knife used in reed making, one could buy a lot of high tech sandpaper and a glass or granite surface for less than the price of regular sharpening stones.  And, it would always be flat.  I would suggest thinking carefully before spending on stones.

One article described using a burr on the knife edge to scrape the reed.  Is this part of the reed making process?   

Ken

"Man is the only animal with the One True Religion, all seven of them"

Mark Twain

Interesting.  It did not occur to me to use the SB wheel for lathe tools.  Why not, the modern ones are high speed steel.  I guess the real criteria is the kind of tool steel, not the kind of tool.

Any thoughts on which wheel would work better with A2 steel, as used in some chisels and plane blades?

Ken

I had the same thought and purchased the universal universal support bar. My plan is to use the two bars with the TTS 100 (turning tool) setting gage.  By varying only the tool protrusion setup would be very consistent and repeatable.

Ken

Brett,

I have not sharpened oboe knives.  (I hope someone will reply who actually has sharpened them.)  My daughter played the oboe many years ago.  That was in the era of oil stones.

I remember about that time WCLV, the Cleveland commercial fine art radio station, was running a fund raiser for the Cleveland Orchestra.  Various orchestra members were sharing talents (musical, cooking, photography, etc.) for a donation.  Among the prizes was a private reed making lesson with John Mack, Principal Oboist, and one of the top reed makers in the country.  My daughter was very young at the time, but, in hindsight, that would have been a rare opportunity.

The burrless double bevel knife sounds interesting, but, like you, I am a bit skeptical.

Reed making involves very fine paring.  Certainly the Tormek could handle the preliminary sharpening, and very quickly.  You might consider finishing the job with a very fine waterstone or ceramic stone.  Wayne Barton, the chip carver, uses the expression "refreshing his edges" with a fine (waterless) ceramic stone.

I recently read (on Harrelson Stanley's website, the guy who designed and sells the side moving honing jig) about "edge jointing".  This involves making a very light right angle pass along the finest stone before the final honing.  The theory is it gets rid of the microscopic bumps on the edge.

I hope others will respond, and that you will keep posting what you find out.

Ken

Gary,

Too bad about your square.  A Starrett square is a very useful tool, and should easily last a lifetime if used properly.  I would replace it; it's a good investment.  (The same applies to Henckel knives.)

Ken

glh17,

You need a good spin doctor.  Your good Henckel knife has only one nick, added previously by an inexperienced sharpener, and corrected by you.  Your fine Starrett square is presently being routinely being checked to insure its legendary accuracy.

Ken

Last year I did some "coarse stone grinding" on some areas of my life.  I went essentially plant based (vegan) in my diet.  The occasional beer or wine became very occasional.  (No, I still don't exercise; there is room to grow.)

This new year, I will continue with the fine stone refining the edges.

Last year I added the new water trough and EZY lock shaft to keep current. As January looks both forward and backward, with Ionut's help, I am also purchasing one of the older square edge jigs for large mortise chisels.

I hope this will be a happy, prosperous, and productive new year for the forum members.

Ken

ps  A good New Year addition to your sharpening libraries is Ron Hock's excellent book.

Fine side fine; course side course.

I agree.  I think you could start a sharpening business with your T7.  However, before I might bring my prized Henckel knives to anyone, I would prefer the sharpener have either lots of experience or some good training (preferably both).  I don't mean to discourage you, but rather to spur you on to a higher plain.

Ken

Hi, Grover.

I did a quick run through of the prices.  If you buy the hand tool kit (separately from the T7), you would essentially get the axe jig for free as compared with buying all the jigs separately.  If you order the hand tool kit at the same time as the T7, you can save about $15 more.

IF you use all these jigs, it is a bit of a saving.  If not, you have some very nice collectibles to fill your shelves.

I think the Tormek is a fine sharpening machine. The accessories certainly make it very versatile.  I do not think the package pricing is really such a hot bargain.

I agree with Ionut about being able to do an acceptable job freehand for the very occasional axe.  If, by chance, you had more than occasional axes to sharpen, I would get the jig.  If not, slowly and carefully handheld would get you through adequately.

Ken

Pete, this is from the website:

The two day school (about 10 hours) is $600.  All classes are one-on-one unless you come with someone; see two-fer special below.  On Day One you will learn my method of combining wet grinding with paper wheel honing and stropping, and become able to sharpen most household knives.  On Day Two you will learn how to sharpen scissors and garden tools.  You can try any of the listed equipment and get some practice time sharpening knives and scissors that you brought. Two days is recommended for anyone thinking about starting a sharpening business.
A one day class (about 6 hours) tailored to your interests is available for $400.  All classes include lunch. 
Sometimes I am working at a market the day after class.  Students are invited to work as my apprentice on these dates and  see my business in operation.
A certificate is awarded upon successful completion of the course.

Interesting.  I'll try it that way next time I reprofile.

Thanks.

Ken

Jeff,

Would it be correct to assume you mean placing the knife on a flat surface (such as the Torlock) and reshaping at a 90 degree angle?  Would you do this with knife i the front (horizontal) position?

Ken